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GSpence2

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Posts posted by GSpence2


  1. So I did some more data-logging today during a portion of my morning commute. Mostly low speed (below 25MPH) stop and go but a couple of places where I could really go fast (30-35MPH). If I am understanding and reading this data correctly my check engine light codes P2227 & P2225 are being caused by a vacuum and/or boost leak? Take a look and pay attention to time slots 12:59 & 16:57. Something weird happens both times when it feels like the timing is all of a sudden thrown off, and the truck hesitates, stumbles, loses power, and then snap crackle pops through the exhaust like a cheap rice rocket with a fart pipe. And each time this is with a steady easy throttle no mashing.

     


  2. So I tested the battery today and at rest no ignition I'm getting 12.6 volts. With the engine running I'm getting 13.85 volts. Battery is not even a year old yet. Okay no rodents, ECU check sums are checking out okay, BUT - I'm losing boost, and the timing is being retarded in a big way right when the turbos should start to spool hard about 26-2700 RPMs. Spool up to .3-.4 bar and then le poop! Full dump.

     

    Power loss, hesitation, stumble, no CEL - repeat. Hmm...curious...

     

    I'll try to capture some live data and post it. I'll try cleaning my MAFs too. I ran some Techron through a couple of weeks ago - didn't really need it but it was a gift so...


  3. Update. So new suspension has been on the truck a little more than a month and I’ve driven it hard and a couple of drag strip days. Guess what?

     

    The inner tie rods are already shot! No matter because my rack is leaking anyway so I’ll yank the whole assembly at once. 

     

    My feedback: go OEM on the suspension bits. While aftermarket kits are super attractive because of their costs, they’re not worth it in the long run.

     

    After 1 month about 3900 miles and a couple of trips into the RPM Range 2 zone and the inner tie rods are done!?! Not acceptable.


  4. Hi Camilee 

    Funny you should ask as I now have a calibration issue with my suspension fault code P1437. My laptop died just as I was coding the last height sensor (HR) so I’m gonna have to do the whole thing over again.

     

    But to your question the difference was night and day. The ride much smoother quieter the steering much faster to respond and more accurate. The road feel when really pushing it felt more planted more solid and whereas before I could hear and feel the rear end breaking loose I don’t feel that anymore and no more hop and skittishness under hard braking (my Pig is not stock ?).

     

     I changed the full front arms and strut mounts all tie rods and sway bar links and sway bar bushings. On the rear I changed the lower arms upper arms and track arms shock mounts and also changed the rear links and sway bar bushings.

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