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Can anyone recommend a good shop/mechanic in CT, as close to Norwalk as possible? If not, then somewhere along the NYC to Fairfield County CT commute? Been using a very well reputed Porsche specialist and have had mostly great experiences with them over the last few years - but they are an hour away, I now have two two jobs and a baby and it's really difficult to bring the Cayenne to them and get a ride back/there each them, etc. Also, they have gotten too expensive. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their recs.

I would add the "coolant Ts" to that list, if you wanna take the "list" approach (in addition to PPI - def get a PPI, do both is my vote lol). I bought mine CPO from dealer. Started having a coolant leak. Dealer twice denied it, took to independent who took photos to prove it. Went back to dealer with the pics, they finally admitted they needed replacing. Because of what I'd learned from others on the forums here and elsewhere, I tried to get the dealer to do the Ts while they were at it, they refused to acknowledge the Ts even existed, let alone agree to replace them-- even at my own cost, I offered to pay for that extra work. Fast forward to a few thousand miles later- woke up one morning to massive coolant puddle under car in garage, miracle it happened at home parked and not during a drive. Had it towed to mechanic- coolant Ts had failed. Ts are cheap, labor to get to them is the same as the pipes. My mechanic was willing to replace them with metal ones I found also thanks to other forum members sharing their experiences, so hopefully that issue doesn't come up again. But that friggin dealer owes me $$$ in the labor it cost me to do the Ts when I offered to pay for them while they were doing the pipes. If you stay with the factory Ts, they come as part of a hose assembly so you do the hoses with the Ts. I think there are 3 Ts. The rear hatch struts are DIY, I'm beginner and did them myself using Pelican Parts DIY. My rear hatch glass struts failed around the same time as the rear hatch ones. Also DIYd using the Pelican tutorials. Coolant reservoir was also an easy DIY and inexpensive part, I wouldn't dealbreak over that one, or the struts. Me personally (and most might consider this excessive) but I would check for bore scoring as part of the PPI. I'm guessing it would add 1-3hrs labor cost to bore scope, compression and leakdown test but if you happen to be one who gets bit by this, it's engine replacement. You've already taken the most important step by visiting this forum. I've had my Cayenne for about 10 years and the people on these forums are just the most amazing, generous community. The knowledge, advice and information are priceless. Easily saved me thousands of dollars and money aside completely enriched the experience of having one of these monsters. 🙂 Good luck to you!

Oh wow- recently while I was doing plugs and coils, after pulling out 5-8 I noticed something extremely similar sitting on top of the engine near one of the plug/coil openings. Didn't see it when I pulled the cover off, didn't notice it fall out but noticed it after I'd pulled all the coils + plugs on that side and was about to put in the new ones. Mine was more a light beige color whereas yours looks to me more greenish? Also, mine looked more deteriorated. Wish I'd kept it or taken a pic.

Update: (Thanks JFP in PA for your reply!) Decided to replace all the coils, spark plugs and engine air filters -- they were due, anyway. Coils looked fine, no oil- though I had a minor panic attack when I pulled #6 coil only to realize its rubber spark plug socket stayed stuck in place. Would like to give credit but can't remember the name of another forum member here or elsewhere I came across in my panicked google search that had the same problem and successfully extracted using a pick tool, worked great. So thankful it happened in the easily accessible #6 instead of the dreaded hard to reach #4. Spark plug #4 def had a little bit of oil but only toward the tip, nothing above the threads. Shined a flashlight down all the openings and didn't see any oil, even in #4. With the new plugs, coils and air filters, the rough idle went away. Drove her a bit and definitely a big improvement. I cleared the faults and CEL. CEL hasn't come back yet but using the scan tool, the fault codes are back. So the problem is improved but not resolved. Still a relative newbie to DIY but I am positive the valve cover gaskets are leaking oil. I get the burning oil smell in the cabin on occasion and if I look carefully enough a tiny bit of white smoke on the outside sometimes, too. Would that likely be the cause to the #4 misfire related codes? I am thinking to do the valve cover gaskets next but not sure I want to take on that project if there isn't much chance it will solve this problem. Appreciate anyone willing to share their experiences and knowledge on this. Thanks!

After a long drive yesterday, when I stopped outside the garage door I noticed what felt like a rough idle. When I started her up today, CEL came on. Scanned for codes and got 2: P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected Don't think it's the battery- hooked it up to a trickle charger since I noticed the rough idle yesterday, and scan tool today showed 13.60min - 14.07 max. I can't remember when (maybe several months ago, maybe a year? can't tell the passage of time anymore since the pandemic) I once before I noticed what felt like a rough idle (but can't remember how similar or not to this one now) and a bottle of Techron cleared it up. Where should I start? Techron again? Coils? Plugs? Also, in case it might be related but I don't think so-- for a while now I have an occasional smell in the cabin of what I think is smells like burnt oil. It's mild and brief. It rarely happens. When it does happen, I *think* it's only in the winter and only when I first start her up or am not moving, and I feel like it goes away once the car is warmed up or has been driven a bit. Best of my memory, not too sure there's a pattern though. Just started tracking oil consumption recently, so I can't answer that yet. From what I've read online, this may be the valve cover gaskets? Appreciate any advice on how to start troubleshooting the rough idle and misfire codes and welcome any input on the oil smell, too... Thanks so much!

I'll try and make a very long story as short as possible. I'm three mechanics in and still haven't solved it yet. I've searched extensively and come across many similar issues but not the same combo of issues I'm having. 2006 CTS w/110,000 miles, no major issues before this. I'll start with this: is there any related wiring, control modules, fuses, etc/whatever, between the headlamps and the rear upper center brake light? Also possible the driver side horn, which also isn't working? All these things seemed to start failing around the same time. I'm getting the dipped beam warning on the driver headlamp and the brake light warning for the center upper rear brake light. They always seem to happen around the same time. Mechanics have ruled out bulbs and plug/outlet contacts, those seem to be fine. New battery and alternator is good- both tested and no issues. I replaced both headlamp mount trays with new ones myself, that stopped the headlamps from coming loose over bumps or potholes. That used to happen and I thought that was the only reason I would get dipped beam errors. I would go over a bump, I'd get the dipped beam warning, one or both headlamps would stop working and sometimes I could get them working again just by turning the headlight switch off and back on, but usually I would have to stop, get out of the car and physically push them back into place, and then they'd work again. Now, only the driver side headlamp will stop working but no correlation to rough road or bumps, and pushing it back in doesn't fix the problem, only turning the lights off and back on again will do it. Anyone have any experience with this combination of issues? Really appreciate any help.. Thanks!

I have searched this but have found conflicting info so I'd really appreciate some help please: I'd like to fit these wheels on our '06 Turbo S: http://www.porsche.c...enneturbowheel/ You can see by the link, I doubt Porsche would list them if they didn't fit *however* in my searches here a few members have warned against fitting 18" wheels on the '06 Turbo S due to brake caliper clearance, unless I misunderstood. If someone can help confirm I can fit these, that would be great. I currently have the factory 20s but I'd like to have a set of 18s for winter. Thanks!

I'm looking at a 2006 Cayenne Turbo S (my first Porsche.) Anyone have any advice on what to "beware" of on this year, make and model? 85k miles and offered as Certified so I would be looking at 2yrs/15k mls. additional warranty coverage. I was asking the salesperson if the air suspension components are covered and he said yes but he also said only if it breaks and that it would not be covered in terms of "wear and tear." I found that to be confusing and from the air suspension on a BMW X5 I once had, at least on that car, it was super-expensive to replace. Anyway -- anyone willing to share advice, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!