dodo

to Coyot My benchmark is other 997.2. So I believe something is not right here. I also do not recall it was that sensitive from day one (I have 20K miles on it now) Thank you all for your responses.

no it is not in Sport mode

2009 997.2 C2S The accelerator is too sensitive almost to an annoying limit. It is particularly too sensitive in the 1500-3000 rpm range. I drove other 997.2s and their accelerators are not that sensitive. Any suggestion what I can do about this? The dealer tells me it is normal but it is not. Would replacing the accelerator pedal solve this problem? Or could it be software issue? Are there other hardware we can look at or replace? Thanks.

My dealer has no clue. They sent mail to Porsche. I do not want them to touch the car because I do not want them to screw anything up. Everything else in the car is working fine. Did you set your PCM's route guidance voice to UK? On my PCM 2.0, it made changes to the map and some of the menu displays when I did that. Not sure if it's the same on the newer unit, but worth mentioning. M. The new unit only shows the "language option". So I do not have control on nav voice. Maybe it should be and they forgot about it in the intial release. Will check again. Thanks.

Vehicle Information: Model: 911 C2S; Year: 2009; Mileage: 1,200; Manufactured March 2009; PCM 3.0 version V The car is equipped with Satellite receiver that is used for both satellite radio and Nav Traffic services. Everything worked OK for the first two weeks after delivery, then: - The map display stopped showing the toll way and freeway symbols. Instead it shows white boxes with the toll way or freeway numbers (like maps in the UK). - All toll ways and freeways are shown with red edges filled with yellow color. I am therefore unable to see the traffic flow from Nav Tech on these roads though the traffic messages are displayed correctly. The PCM 3.0 User Manual has a picture on page 134 of the map display. That picture is exactly what I see for all freeways and toll ways: white boxes with road numbers and red edges filled with yellow. (Please compare that picture to the correct displays shown on page 99 or the cover of the PCM User Manual.) The PCM shows the incorrect display regardless whether route guidance is active or not. Any advice is appreciated. PS. Satellite refresh signals do not solve the problem.

Make sure your tires are not overinflated. Set them to PARTIAL LOAD pressure (33/39). If you have TPMS, it can tell you if the tires are overinflated (just follow the TPMS menu). Overinflated tires cause annoying vibrations in the cabin. Do not let the dealer remove more cabin panels until you make sure that the tire pressure is OK.

would we need to align the wheels after tighting the sway bar, arms, etc.?

Thanks Loren. Yes, it is the bumper cover. When I install it, I want to set the torque to the values that Porsche recommends (1.5, 1.8 and 2 ftlb). Any recommendation for a torque limiting tool?

What tools do I need to R&I the front Apron?

why not Porsche's own cleaner and conditioner?

The hinges of my storage bin cover was rubbing against the airbag in the door. The dealer removed the door trim panel, insulated the hinges from the airbag and re-installed the panel. Months later I noticed that the trim panel is not fully enguaged in the door subframe (the Workshop Manual specifically warns against this improper installation). I am hesitant to ask the dealer to R/I the panel because I am concerned of possible rattle(s) after the installation (even if they put new fastening clips). Should I be concerned?

I have the same problem. I am ignoring it.

After several visits to the dealer and extensive test driving with and without the panel, I found that the source of noise was the rear side window on the driver's side. I test drove the car with the technician and showed him that when the window is pushed slightly outwards the noise disappears. They fixed (R/I) the window with new seals. Noise is gone. Later we also replaced the panel because it showed signs of fatigue/slight deformation due to the repetitive R&I while we were trying to determine the noise source.

I had the same problem. Put your fingers through the C-pillar seatbelt outlet and towards the roof. You should feel a plastic tube hanging loose. Take it to the dealer. They should be able to fix it. They will need to R/I the C-pillar trim which requires R/I of rearside trim panel. Also, ask them to replace all fastening clamps of any R/I panel, otherwise you may get a new rattle after intallation. If you decide to do it yourself and break a panel the replacement will take at least two weeks to arrive in the US. The cost of the C-pillar trim is $75. Thanks so much; do you know what the tube is for? Also here's a new noise I've got :angry: I noticed when I make sharp quick left turns I am hearing something scraping/squeaking coming from the back of the car. Its a light metal against metal sound and it sounds like its moves back and forth due to the forces of the car making the turn (suspension bushing out of place, trans or motor mount loose?). I did not ask what that tube was for. But I showed the technicians at the dealer that it was loose. They properly insulated it and it is no longer making noise. As to the new noise, before thinking about the suspension, engine, trans, etc., check the rear side window (on the side you suspect the noise is coming from). - Determine a spot on the road where this new noise is audible - Have someone sit in the back seat - ask the person in the back seat to put a hand on the window (slightly push outwards) - drive on the same spot on the road and see if the noise disappears or changes. If it is not the window, take the time (patience is required here :) ) to investigate where the noise is coming from. My experience is that if you take the car to the dealer and you do not show them where the noise is coming from they will (in their effort to detrmine the source of the noise) probably R/I parts that have nothing to do the problem. And you will very likely endup with new noise that you will spend more time trying to get rid of. Also, make sure that you can reproduce the noise when dealer's technician goes for a test drive with you. I had a similar "metal-against-metal" noise. With time it developed into a "cling, cling" noise on assymetric bumps, when accelerating hars and when making sharp turns. The problem was the rear side window, driver side. It was loose. The dealer fixed it. But it took months and several visits to the dealer only because I was not patient enough to investigate the noise source myself. The folks at the dealer were very understanding but they did not know exactly what they were looking for. No one knows your car better than yourself.

I had the same problem. Put your fingers through the C-pillar seatbelt outlet and towards the roof. You should feel a plastic tube hanging loose. Take it to the dealer. They should be able to fix it. They will need to R/I the C-pillar trim which requires R/I of rearside trim panel. Also, ask them to replace all fastening clamps of any R/I panel, otherwise you may get a new rattle after intallation. If you decide to do it yourself and break a panel the replacement will take at least two weeks to arrive in the US. The cost of the C-pillar trim is $75.