Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I've read the 2009 Service Information manual for all 911 Carrera models on this forum (thank you!) and see that the hydraulic fluid used for the dual clutch portion of the PDK is Pentosin FFL3. I suspect that is the correct fluid for my 2011 Turbo S but wondered if anyone knows for sure if it is? Kerry
I wondered about that. I think I can find the signal wire in the '00 schematics for the instrument cluster light, but not the '02. What do you think of accessing the instrument cluster lights, and spot soldering to that circuit board where it feeds the PSM Information Light?
Loren, first let me thank you for the reply. You have an amazing forum. Now, you mean the switch used to turn the PSM on and off? I know that switch has a light that indicates when the PSM has been switched off (and a corresponding light on the dash), but I didn't think that switch light also came on when the PSM was being activated.
Bought my '02 used from a dealer and I've put 40K on it and about 40 track days. It is also my daily driver. Other than track wear items the only problem I've had is with a front wheel bearing, which any shop could (and did) replace. I'd echo Chuck Jones and say you're most likely to have problems with the mods you make. For me, it has been a very reliable car.
I would very much like to have a 'PSM Information Light' - that is, the '!' light on the dash that comes on when PSM is activated - that is easy to see when I'm on the track. I drive with PSM switched on, but I want to use it to help me be smooth, so I have to know when it is being activated. You can't always see the light on the dash, and I can't always feel when it activates. Does anyone know what wire I can connect to? It's an '02 996TT with Tip.
No problem, Hotrod. I'll give out free advice anytime! But you should know this is from someone who has very little knowledge on the subject. From what I've learned, we're in good company on that score. I've read of people using 100# to 200# differential, and I believe 150# to 200# is more common. I haven't been able to find out what the stock spring rate is, nor the H&R. That H&R 29385 is a progressive spring so it would be tough to compare numbers. My current setup is certainly a lot stiffer than stock, but I don't think it feels much worse than the combination of the stock shocks and the H&Rs. Very small bumps were softer, but it didn't take much of a seam or road divot to make that setup harsh. My new setup feels very different compared to my old '00 C4 with the RoW M030 suspension, which is the only other suspension I've had experience with. A bit stiffer for sure, but what I really notice is that the current setup feels a lot more over sprung, which I like. I don't think this setup increases oversteer; that wasn't the intention. I do a lot of autocross and if I drive stupidly I can still plow (understeer) with the best of them. It all comes down to what you think is too stiff or too soft for the street. Nobody would call my setup a marshmallow ride for the street, but it's personal opinion as to whether it's too harsh. I can say that spending money on top quality shocks like JRZ or Moton is money well spent.
I can tell you what I have done on my 996TT, but it's not with PSS9 dampers. I have 700# springs in the rear and 500# in the front. The dampers are JRZ Clubsport RS set to 4 for compression and 7 for rebound. Ride height is about 1.25" lower than stock, as the JRZ can handle that. When I bought it, the previous owner had stock shocks and H&R Sport Springs (#29385) lowering springs, so the ride height hasn't changed, but the suspension is radically different. Your question is, what is acceptable for the street. Most people would say that the H&R lowering setup the first owner had on my car would not be too stiff for the street. I think most would say that the springs I have on now would give a much stiffer ride for the street. But it's difficult for me to say which is the more comfortable ride, because they are so different. I can say I would not like any stiffer springs. Midwest Eurosport in the Chicago area installed my suspension and they talked with JRZ about the spring rates for my (mostly) street setup. They felt 700#/500# was as stiff as I'd want, and they wanted to keep a 200# difference between front and rear. Problem is, I don't know how those spring rates would feel on your car with PSS9's. It is my daily driver as well as autocross and DE car and I love how this setup handles. It's certainly stiff but I wouldn't change anything.
I have read here the motor case seam is a valid rear jack point for the 996TT, but my jack only reaches to the 'flange' at the very back of the motor. I was a bit worried as this part is an extension of only one half of the motor case. Any problems jacking from here?