ciaka

Has anyone else experienced and fixed this themselves? I want to attempt this myself, but saying dealer fixed it does not provide enough direction for my simple brain. If anyone can chime in with some procedure that gives tips, eats, so I don't mess up the door position entirely, it will be great.

Doors have shims already but driver from door is about 3mm lower and on highway sometimes I hear noise.

Sorry to hear on your loss.  Does sound very expensive.

Indeed, replacing of pads themselves does not require one to remove calipers from the car.

Only think one needs to do is remove the sensor cables and remove a bolt that allows the caliper to be tilted on way to remove/insert new pads.

IMO, pad replacement is still a very easy thing to do.  These cars cost enough, no need to keep giving the dealers more and more money.

I think the key thing here is knowing exactly what one has to do, before they start doing it.  

Then, once process is known before work starts, it will be much easier to execute.

On wheel area bolts, nuts, it always helps to add penetrating lubricant to help remove the hardware.

Again, really sorry to hear this.  Please use this community forum in case of questions, or if you have doubt of any kind.

Take care.

Thanks for input.  Done that.

Replaced the control arms.  Hoping to add a DIY for this soon.

Once I saw the bolt/nut/washer combo, I knew.  

Agree, if you turn the bolt head instead of turning the nut, you will damage the bolt and pop the indexed washer off onto the bolt threads.

IMO, the design could be much better for a Porsche hardware.  Existing seems too cheaply made to be reliable.

Guessing that sellilng 2 dollars worth of metal for 15 bucks, makes sense for Porsche.

Yes, checked the fuse box.  The 40A fuse (large orange in location 56), is all intact...not blown.

Checked any other fused (location 23 too), and all is OK.

Did more diagnosis on this after work.

Have some codes:
Air Conditioning Section:
353 - Feedback from blower regulator front value below lower limit valu

2193 - Power Supply for blower regulator short circuited to ground

After I pulled the large fuses, checked and reseated them, I turned on the car and the front AC started cooling again. 

It sure points to the blower regulator IMO. 

Funny thing, I recently replaced the blower regulator with a new one. The part number was exactly what it was calling for (have to dig up now if needed).
Will have to get under glove box to looksie at the regulator now.
Guess will follow my blower regulator DIY to do this...lol.

Anyone have suggestions on this?

Just finished refreshing suspension, and thought - awesome....good to go for a while. As soon as I thought that, the AC is acting up.

Background/Symptoms:
Couple months ago, the condenser developed a crack. Had that replaced by a shop. All seemed OK.
Over last week or so, started to hear squeaking noise coming from under the glove box. Seemed to come on whenever front zone AC was active and set to blow. Knowing about this from reading threads on here, I assumed it may be the blower. 

Get home yesterday, AC working just fine (except the annoying squeaking when blowing air).
Today, get in the car, start, and the rear zone is blowing air (although not cold), but front zone is not blowing any air at all.

Anyone can give input as to what could be the cause?
Few months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor/voltage regulator with a new one (knew from past my old VR was not providing all voltage it was supposed to (about 9 as opposed to about 12V).

Have not yet gotten in there - just got into work, but wanted to see if you fine folk on here can help provide possible places to check.

Thanks again.

take a look at how the pistons work, if the calipers are gliding in/out smooth, or if they seem to bind.  If they appear to have hard time moving either way, it may be a sign calipers need refresh.

Another way you can see is after driving for a while you stop the car and see if either rotor is super hot (would not want to touch with hand - spit at rotor to see if it boils).  

If you have not been pressing brakes just before stopping, another sign calipers are not functioning well.

Just some more ideas here before you take stuff apart.  Good luck.

From what you describe it does sound like a possibility, that brake pads (at least some of them), are sticking to the rotor, causing the squeak.

Could be the pads, could be the calipers/pistons, not working properly to release pressure once pressed in.

If you nail down the side in which it is happening (have someone stand next to car as you roll by to pinpoint), then you can clean out the brakes well (remove, clean, reassemble).

When taking lower control arms out:

Lower control arm questions

1.  any things that need marking for when reinstall takes place, to ensure decent alignment?

2.  What are the torx screws under the ball joint screws?  Seem to be inside the nuts that I would want to remove to separate joints.

     Do not want to touch unless I know what these are for and if I need to mark anything.

Upper control arms quesitons:

3.  How easy/hard is it to remove the upper control arms (wish bones next to shocks).  Any special tools?  Only see ball joint + 2 bolts (although one bolt seems to be right next to engine wall without enough clearance to remove out once nut is taken off.

Stabilizer bar questions

4.  I assume front has to be off ground to remove the bushings?

5.  Is it all under pressure that I will have to watch out for when loosening the bushing mounts?

Trying get general idea of removal (looked at manual but does not seem to have mention of these things).

If anyone an run through process for me, I will give you a million bucks - well, not really, but will greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

Awesome. Got it. Thanks. The car was in shop getting Airbag stuff done. Mechanic must have removed the mat and forgotten to put back in.

Thanks

Pics

Mechanics were troubleshooting AC and srs module issues. After I got the car back, noticed this part was left on the floor of front passenger side.

If you can help ID, I'll greatly appreciate. They need to complete the srs work and I need to tell them to put the part back exactly where it was removed from. Thank you.

Thanks. I will have to look for alternative solution.

Looks like I'll have to live with the nick on the button. Since really small, that appears to be my resolution until something else is found.

So after some lengthy troubleshooting I was told definitely srs module out. Since dealer part I was told 1200 for part itself and 300 for install, programming and part of troubleshooting time.

They said took about 5 hours to determine this.

Does that sound decent or am I taken to the cleaners?

lol, these look like stickers one would place over buttons.

Noble idea, but misplaced IMO.

Thanks.

Sorry....

2005 cayenne Turbo

Here is the more detailed info of errors

ME:

P1627

CAN timeout - airbag - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light

Instrument Cluster

1321

Airbag triggering unit - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light

KESSY

1321

Airbag triggering unit

No signal/communication

GATEWAY

1321

Airbag triggering unit

So I had this airbag error on and had taken the car in to look at it. After few hours of pd they say SRS Module is most likely bad and they would have to buy to put in.

The part is $1200. Since electronic, can't return once plugged in. So once I buy, I spent the money even if there is secondary issue.

Shop asked me if I want them to start debugging but I would be charged hourly fir time and then for repairs.

Shop appears great reputation and recommended by many.

What would you do?

Trying to see if anyone knows whether the buttons on left side of steering wheel, volume and others, have replacement numbers. One of my buttons has a small spot on it (probably from wife's fingernail), and I'd like to replace, should I choose to swap out my steering wheel out. Much appreciating the info.

I think I just found the full list:

1. Valve cover seal - driver side

2. Valve cover seal - pass side

3. Two spark plug hole gaskets

4. Two variocam solenoid gaskets

5. High temperature gasket maker (red one).

Would love to get confirmation if possible. Thanks.

Is that all you need for valve cover seals replacement? Gasket for each cover?

I thought I remember someone saying there are more seals to replace once you are doing that job.

Would love to know the full parts list. Planning to do soon on mine.

DONT DO IT!!! - you will enjoy too much.  No one can enjoy something that much!!

JK.  If you want it, do it.  I know you will love the CTT.  Dont take my word for it, chime in a month or so after you get it.