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ciaka

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Everything posted by ciaka

  1. Each tire has abs sensor that plugs into the control arm. One of them can go bad. Also, if anyone replaced the hub bearing, and installed new bearing backqards. You would get bad abs too. Just throwing this out in case work done on it.. check connections by unplugging and plugging after you spray with electronics cleaner on each wheel.
  2. Awesome. I will prolly use safety wire or whatever is thin enough to make it go through. Thanks a bunch fellas. No need to spend money where there is no need to spend money. Awesome place here.
  3. I noticed both my washer nozzles in the CTT are starting to act up. The spray coming out appears to look like it is not spraying evenly. Wonder if they can get clogged up, and what the solution can be. Do they need to be replaced? Has anyone tried to fix successfully? Have not really tried to remove and play with them yet. Hope someone has experience with them here. The washer nozzle part numbers is: 955 628 077 01 Thank you for any help.
  4. how hard was it to get to the horns for replacement? What needs to come out to get to them and swap? Easy? Hard? Thanks.
  5. CLICK HERE FOR LINK TO THE CATALOG ONLINE. Choose car model, then year, then gen, click Display button. Save file as PDF. Open PDF file in Acrobat reader and you have access to all the part numbers for your car. Enjoy.
  6. I do not know for sure but I fear this will not be possible without serious tearing into upholstery, dash, trunk, to install necessary harness for these. Porsches are all made per build sheet, not like typical line vehicles like Ford, Chevy, toyota. Customer puts in all his selections, options, etc, into a build list. That goes to the factory and as vehicle gets assembled, only items on the build list make it into the car. So they do not have a universal harness that things plug or unplug from. For this audio, I do not think you will be able to do this without serious work, and expensive too. I hope someone proves me wrong.
  7. As an update, the large T (part of a water hose assembly), made of plastic, cracked right at the T junction, underneath the part of hose slid over the plastic and clamped. There are two Ts on Cayenne Turbos, large and a small one. They are both made of hard plastic. This means, after 40 or 50k miles of replacement with new parts, you will be back in there, replacing yet again. To remedy this, I ordered two aluminum Ts, meaning I will never have to worry about the Ts leaking again. Adding to the crack, I also noticed that the large coolant pipe water hose (short and large rubber hose connecting the large coolant pipe with 2 clamps), was leaking at bottom as well. This was discovered after i replaced the Ts, and did a pressure test on coolant. The problem revealed itself right away. I am waiting for some parts, as I am now replacing all seals on all coolant pipes. It turns out my Porsche dealer had these parts much cheaper than any other place I found it at online. So check dealer near you first. Parts will be here in 2 days. Parts I ordered for the fix of broken Ts - 05 Cayenne Turbo: - Water hose - PN 955 106 322 00, qty: 1 - water hose connecting to left most (passenger side) small cooling pipe with clamps - Water hose - PN 955 106 323 50, qty: 1 - water hose with plastic Ts (large) - cut off metal clamps, put onto new aluminum Ts, use steel clamps - Water hose - PN 948 106 035 51, qty: 1 - water hose with plastic Ts (small) - cut off metal clamps and put onto new aluminum T, use steel clamps - Aluminum T (large) - 1" x 3/4" x 1" - Order Here - Aluminum T (large) - 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" - Order Here - Hose clamps large and small - Orileys or your favorite auto parts store Other parts: - Intake gasket - PN 948 110 145 01 - Qty: 2 (one for each bank) - 2FT Flexible Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers - I would not attempt this without these pliers as some clamps are so deep and tight they cannot be reached with anything else - about 15 bucks off ebay After discovering leaking cooling pipe seals, I ordered the following seals to replace: - PN 999 707 517 41 - Qty: 4 - for small cooling pipes seals - PN 999 707 518 41 - Qty: 2 - for small cooling pipes seals - the driver side pipe - PN 999 707 370 41 - Qty: 4 - for large cooling pipe (2 seals for end going into thermostat and another 2 seals for adapter going into large pipe) - PN 948 106 240 00 - Qty: 1 - short water hose joining large cooling pipe to water housing I reused clamps for the short water hose, but if you want to buy one, PN is 999 512 389 01. My local dealer happened to have all the seals for much cheaper than anywhere online I could find them, had most in stock, and others would arrive within 2 days. So I hope to have this sucker back working this coming weekend. It would be sweet, still very much enjoy driving this car. Here are the pics of pipes ordered, on the metal Ts, and what my hand looked like after completing the swap. Now you should understand why you would need to get cable pliers.
  8. Gents, here are my old pipes for you to stare...lol. Still waiting for oem hose Ts to arrive, so I can put it all together, but at least got to the leak. There was some coolant in the valley, but some told me their large T burst resulted in coolant in valley too. I hope he is right. In mean time, let me know if you spot anything i should be looking at replacing in pipes area (seals, misalignment, etc). Thank you.
  9. If you know headlight is 2 years old only, swap the ecu. Do not assume it is ok. Proper troubleshoot will allow to look at all aspects, no matter how unlikely. If you swap out ecus left to right, and drive and the other headlight starts acting up, you just found out ecu is bad without having to spend couple hundred bucks on a new one for a guess. Dont give up, you will get it. Good job.
  10. Here are my new replacement Ts, from JagsThatRun.com. They charged me $24 per each T, shipping $10 to country of Texas, total $58 delivered within about 4 days total. So turn around was super quick and I am super happy. Also ordered OEM hoses that include the plastic Ts. Will remove hoses from those Ts, and install on the metal ones for installation onto the car. Then will do the pressure test again to make sure no other leaks are there, and then onto putting all back together. Ordered from here in case you have same issue.
  11. The harness to assess is the one inside the headlight itself. Once you open cover, look down, all the wires coming out of that connector (which mates with harness outside headlight), most get brittle and flake off due to heat/age.
  12. ...so, have intake off, pressurized system, found leak. Large T. Still puzzled why some coolant was in valley of engine. Could the large T breach and spray some into it? Aluminum Ts and OEM hoses already on way. Thinking of replacing O rings on pipes just in case but few folks told me they will be fine if recent (which they are). So split on that decision. Was also thinking reseat thermostat pan, but it looked dry there and feeling under the coolant pipes going to thermostat I did not feel any moisture on fingers, and did not see any moisture on pipes with a plumber snake camera.
  13. Are you talking about the long thin, black hose looking like a number 4, going from rear of engine bay, to front of it, connecting to each side of the intake? That one was replaced by the repair shop about 2 years ago. Contemplated replacement, but touching it, does not appear brittle at all. Now, I am looking for a place where I can order all the o rings and rubber pieces for the coolant pipes, plus gasket for thermostat housing. Dont need pipes, just the seals/gaskets.
  14. Last week went into the garage, and saw pool of coolant under the driver seat area on garage floor. Now, thinking it could be the T connections (two of them, one small T and another large T), that are plastic, extremely hard to get to, and fail routinely. Took the intake out, looking in and observed some coolant near/under the starter area (under left or pass. bank of cylinders), under the pipes near the thermostat area, also see some coolant under the right bank of cylinders, inside the V of engine. Did not really see much wetness near back where the T connectors are. Planning to do a pressure test when my tool comes in (hoping tomorrow). Looking for folks to look over the pics/vid, and tell me if they see suspect info that can make PD easier or direct to an area. Placed my pics on google drive HERE. Look through (sorry, was taking valves condition pics too, while i was there, seem to look good). Thank you for help.
  15. From my experience on CTT headlights there are a couple places to look. 1. Harness - #23 on parts diagram. Simple to replace. Sometimes resolves issues. 2. ECU - #17 on parts diagram, mounted on bottom of headlight assembly. Simple to replace with Torx bit. This one would cause dipped headlight errors if it craps out. 3. Internal wiring of headlight connector that mates with #23 harness. This one, item 3, is most likely why folks get errors etc. After years of working, the wiring insulation becomes brittle, and starts flaking off. Combined with the fact that folks replace bulbs often through life of car, moving wires, accelerating the insulation flaking off process. After some time, the wires become exposed and that is when you start seeing all sorts of funny stuff happen. Battery discharged, components not work, fuses blowing, etc. I looked into there and the only way to solve is the replace the internal headlight connector, or buy new headlight. I was unable to find any part or process for replacing only the connector. Dont want to spend 500 bucks on new headlight, so what I plan to do is do slight modification of internal headlight, to access internal wires, and replace each wire with new wires, that will be heat shrink tubed to ensure no wires touch. Started doing this but now playing with a different issue, putting the headlight one on back burner. If you want to eliminate the dipped beam due to the ecu for it (#17), remove both headlights, and swap the ECU, the dipped beam will follow the bad ecu. I did that and had to order another ecu. Once in, all was great. However, I challenge all of you to take out headlight, open the covers, and look inside the headlight at the small wires as near the inside of headlight connector as you can. You will see all sorts of cracking on wires there - that is the source of many issues electrically here.
  16. yep, Panameras do get noisy after some miles. Same with Cayennes, and other Porsche cars (this issue not unique to Porsche though). Knocking typically gets eliminated by changing lower control arms and/or upper control arms (these very hard to see until removed - bushings obstructed by mount points to chassis). Mattress spring like noises usually eliminated by sway bar bushing replacement and/or sway bar links replacement. Full alignment is very much recommended any time you do suspension work that involves detaching suspension components.
  17. I plan to remove intake to pd coolant leak that recently occured on my cayenne turbo. Have few questions and advice from those in the know. Thank you very much. My CTT had coolant pipes done already and replaced with the metal ones. Yet, another coolant leak happened so deciding to do on my own since mechanic obviously either did job wrong, or neglected to tell me of some other part that fails routinely, and now I have to take this apart again. 1. Do I need to get new intake seals (two of them) whenever removing intake on cayenne turbo 2. In addition to cooling pipes, what other pipes routinely fail under the intake, so I can keep an eye out. 3. Are there parts I can get that have longer life, so I dont have to redo yet again. 4. Any ohter advice while doing this for my car (tips, hints, items worth changing while you are there, etc) 5. Heard there are some smaller pipes that are plastic but fail, and can be purchased metal (not sur if t-pipe or angled, etc), but if you have info withg pn, url, I will really appreciate it. thank you.
  18.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY:Porsche logo door courtesy light swap. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  19. This is probably the easiest mod you can do for the car. I am actually surprised it came out really nice. You end up having a nice Porsche logo projected on the ground, directly below the doors, as you enter the car. Total cost was $28 dollars shipped, and maybe 5 minutes of time to install. Enjoy.
  20. DIY: Steering Knuckle / Wheel carrier removal for bearing replacement Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed. Author ciaka Category Panamera (970) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 01/18/2019 08:24 AM  
  21. Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed.
  22. DIY: Steering Knuckle Bearing Repacking Before you install new bearing into the knuckle, it is recommended you repack the grease. Why? The oem grease is about 200˚F. Repacking with high pressure and high temp (800˚F - CV-2), will ensure max protection. This will be part of my diy for replacing bearing, but making this separate in case folks do on their own too. Author ciaka Category Panamera (970) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 01/15/2019 11:21 AM  
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