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Everything posted by ciaka

  1. if you do not know when plugs were done, do them all together. I have a diy for it too, not hard, get plugs, coils and it will last you 40k miles.
  2. To update, my transmission fault turned out to be the shift rod sensors. Bought new part, took apart the trannie bottom (easy) replaced, recalibrated (need PIWIS2), and car as good as new. Been done for about 8 months now with no issues. I havea. detailed DIY for it as well if anyone is getting very similar issue.
  3. I suspect it is your door actuator, needs replacing. I did the front driver side door. Not too hard, takes time. Even wrote a DIY for it. Maybe can get to it and post on here in DIY section.
  4. Does anyone on here have experience with changing height of sensors for each wheel separately? I have been trying all day and cannot get them to adjust just the way I want to. The height is measured from center of wheel to bottom lip of wheel well fender (straight line from center of wheel). It is so for all 4 wheels. The default height for front wheels is 404mm +/- 10mm (variation in height left to right) The default height for rear wheels is 406mm +/- 10mm (variation in height left to right) The closest I get is have one side perfect, and the other about 5mm too low or too high. As soon as I get into PIWIS2, and make the changes, the sides misalign again, and one side goes too low, while other side goes too high. Frickin frustrating. What I use is the LEVEL/PASM main menu in PIWIS2. Then enter Maintenance Repair sub menu. Then select the height sensor calibration sub menu. While in there, the screen shows all 4 corners, FL, FR, RL, RR, each on separate line. To make the change, one is supposed to measure from center cap to bottom of fender lip (as stated above). Then you enter value in mm for each corner, then click WRITE, to set the settings into ECU. Then you turn ignition off, then on, then press F12 on screen to finalize the setting. Clicking on write performs write of all values, all at once. I changed the valve block and refreshed one shock (that was leaking internally). With the new parts in, wanted to make sure all corners are just perfect before I do alignment again. But this thing is testing my patience. Some of the questions I have are: 1. Am I even supposed to be using the sensor height calibration menu to set height of each corner separately, or is there different menu where I would code the setting of one wheel for example (the above sets all 4 settings together, with click of the write button). 2. To lower a corner, say by 10mm, I have to be in the menu with all measurements, then I add 10mm to existing number (i.e, if setting for FL is 400, I calculate 400+10 = 410 mm, which is supposed to lower that FL corner by 10mm). AM I doing this correctly? 3. Is there a specific process for the calibration, meaning I have to set the height to predefined height to store in ECU, then make adjustments? What am I missing? I have been going up and down and cannot get the thing right and hope one of you folks have done this. I dont get any errors at all, even when doing component test before doing sensor calibration. So all my hardware is working properly. Thanks for help.
  5. I have been trying to find that out too, but was not able to. So far, I know folks take the car to be done at a shop, about $1500 job. I still hope that someone chimes in about it, sure would be nice to know how to.
  6. Agree. What I love about my ptt (besides handling, power, braking, interior finish), is the way I can control tire spin with throttle. Very predictable and repeatable. You can go into a corner, scrub speed before hand, and accelerate into the curve while controlling the spin. That's the kind of control which puts a huge grin on my mug.
  7. Good to see they responded well. Not changing gears, unable to go to drive gear, car not moving while in gear, are all symptoms of the pdk gear shift sensors failure. Hope you have your car working well asap.
  8. I resolved my issue bu replacing gear shift sensors in pdk. I made detailed diy on it too. Should be on this forum. Not too difficult, but long to replace. Saves you thousands though.
  9. Forgot to make final update. The car is up and running well. To summarize, had to replace multiple parts: broken plastic pipes that the splintered serpentine belt broke (3 of them by radiator) Repair coolant leak at back of engine (where the coolant vent Y line connects to the rubber hose) Replace power steering pulley (cracked when I installed replacement belt, you guessed it, ruined the belt too) Belt tensioner Belt tentioner pulley Replace serpentine belt itself, twice (first replacement split once power steering pulley broke Replaced valve cover seals Replaced cracked coolant splitter pipe (going into front of engine) Replace oil cooler pipe (since it came with part #6 already) Repaired a cracked wiring harness for injector #2 (was damaged during the job - brittle and one wire frayed, shorting the wire to other side of injector harness - bad thing - battery short) Most of it was very easy, just time consuming to get to, as cayenne turbo is famous for stuffing all sorts of ungodly wires all in a tiny space. Hardest part was waiting for the parts to arrive, after issues diagnosed. After I repaired everything, car would not start. Thought it was battery, but turned out to be injector wire shorting. Once I rewrapped harness, issue went away and all great. Battery was also leaking slightly so I had it replaced with new one under warranty. DONE. Now, have few small sensor things to replace and it will be better than new.
  10. OK. Got more work on the car. The oil cooler line (hose with plastic T that goes into the engine block on passenger side), is leaking. Got the plastic T out and it is cracked along the T junctions both lower and upper, PLUS the plastic that goes into the engine with a small washer, is broken as well. When i took the plastic piece out, the o ring with rest of the plastic remained in the engine. Had to dig out with small pry 90 degree tool. So now for sure have to order the oil cooler line. Unfortunately the plastic T does not come separately and you have to get the entire cooler line to get the T. I have not detached the rubber hoses from oil cooler, the hose looks fine, and leak was along the plastic. When part comes in, taking the T and will install into place. Guess job not tone. Still to do, install coolant vent line (Y pipe in valley - tomorrow), line to driver turbo wastegate (after coolant sorted out and install drive belt, probably next weekend), drive belt, put intake back on and connect all the hoses/connectors, injectors, put secondary pump brackets on, pumps, and plastic engine covers. I am certain the hardest parts are done and now I am waiting again. Will update once more work done. Below pic shows the oil cooler line T connector, and where it was broken. TIP: Having a camera videoscope is a HUGE help...you can see the screw to remove, to be able to remove the T. Without it, you will be trying blind for long time.
  11. Got time to work on car today. Some new parts came in Friday (tension roller and tension shock). New tensioner in. New tensioner roller in. All pulleys checked and cleaned. Done. New pipe, #15, in. Was going to start putting together, wanted to do pressure test on coolant. Discovered the oil cooler line at the T connector is leaking very slowly (very slow leak, I assume plastic T is crap now. So off I go buy the line now and wait some more. The Coolant vent line for engine banks has not arrived yet, so doing this slowly. Guess good thing coronavirus thing still going on. Talk about turning negative into positive. Hoping these are all the parts. Checked, do not see anything else wrong, but wont know til car started. Trying to be extra gentle with all the vacuum lines - old and small crack = engine light. Looks like if I get a chance to work on this car tomorrow, I will be draining coolant (what is left), and removing the oil cooler line. TBC.
  12. Found out that the line was broken at the point labeled #1 in blue in diagram. That part of line between #1 and #2, is hard plastic, and the ending at #1 goes onto another plastic piece, looks like it is hot pressed onto it. When belt slid off, it took that line out, so that the connection at #1 slipped of the rest of the line, and connection at #2 is still intact, and can be reconnected. However the part at #1 will have to be glued or something. The new piece for that part #5 in diagram, is about $250. I am thinking to get some heater hose that will be just large enough to slip onto the ending behind #1 location, and I can use metal clamp to secure in place. Then use the original pipe to put into the other end of the heater hose, and use another metal clamp to secure. Then, maybe leave connection at #2 as is, or get another piece of heater hose, and using 2 clamps, join the lower pipe to the upper pipe. Anyone have opinions on this? Given the purpose of the line? What is exact purpose of that line? Anyway, appreciate any feedback. Thanks. This will be a slow job, when I have time. Here is the pic.
  13. I had time to work on the car today. Coolant leak: Discovered that because the drive belt broke, water pump stopped spinning, making engine hot and under higher pressure. This resulted in one of the hoses coming out of the coolant tank resevoir (cap), that goes to what I presume is the back of the cooling pipes somewhere, slid off and is now dangling down behind the engine. That is where the coolant is coming from, that hose slid off. Checked water pump visually after removing remains of belt, and there is no evidence of coolant leaking from the pump area, pulley seems solid spinning freely. So looks fine. Belt: Removed the belt, man that thing got chewed up. Looks like the tensioner pulley shock is not working well. I removed the pulley and all sort of rubber were on it from the rubbing. Also, I can move the pulley shock with hand by pushing/pulling, about 8th of an inch or so. So looks like adjuster shock is fubar. The tensioner pulley was coated in all sorts of rubber from the belt grinding against the pulley. I was able to clean off but the grooves look like they were all ground down. See below pic and let me know if that looks used up. I think pulley plus tensioner is in order to be bought. The belt did not seem to exhibit excessive age (cracking, etc). I bent it and did not see typical old belt cracks. But did see multiple flat spots on one side (evidence of not enough tension? grinding as belt was sliding off?, etc?). Hoses beneath valve cover: The thicker one, I was able to get off with hands. Hallelujah. Had to cut insulation with blade, then came off. New one has its own new insulation, so looks like will be fine. Hope I dont have isues installing, we will see. The thinner hose - well, this is a part of vent system that comes from the other side of engine. Thin line, comes out beneath valve cover for cyl 1-4, goes to front of engine, climbs up to top, crosses over engine in area of throttle body, then goes diagonally down near radiator. On the way down, the hose has a clip connection (one you press both sides to pull out), then seems to have a plastic ending, which is held to the thinner insulated pipe (beneath valve cover of cyl 5-8), with a metal band. The plastic piece seems to have been snapped and the section of hose fell down to bottom of engine covers. Have it, the piece near band looks like broke off. My options are: use jbweld to weld piece together, re use the piece. Another option is to get thick rad hose, enough to put onto pipe going below valve covers (cyl 5-8) and use metal clamp on it. Then other end of the short hose, clamp to the section of pipe that still remains. One end of it would clamp into rubber hose, the other still fits into the pipe section going to cyl 1-4. Anyway, here are some pics. Slow going but its because I have work Mon-Fri and dont have as much time as I imagined I would have. Maybe I should get me some covid19, so I can isolate myself in garage. Hmmmm. So far, cleaned up pulleys, removed old belt, cleaned area, removed the thick hose beneath valve covers, now gotta order pulley and tensioner, then assemble. Then can move to take intake out and repair the blown off hose in back of engine. Man, I should pring me out a mechanic school certificate after this job. Tension pulley with tensioner...the belt just coated the pulley. Thats same pulley but cleaned up. Tensioner pulley, seems like grooves are gone. Tension pulley clean but showing grooves. Are they supposed to be like this? Did not think so. Belt, dont see cracking... ...but see flat spots on one side.. Remains of entire belt...seems to have been cut length wise, not across..symptom of thrown off pulley I assume, likey because tensioner, my assumption. What do you think? This is the other idle pulley before cleaning.
  14. I still have not got the pressure test done. Busy working from home with family being total PITA on everything not comprehending when I work, I work. Period. . Well, maybe this weekend I will reserve for the car. Still have not been able to ID the thinner of the two pipes that are wrapped in silver shield under the valve cover in last pic above. That one is broken too, and cannot locate in parts catalog. Need help on that. Other two pipes from diagram, 14, and 15 arrived. Also need advice on removing the pipes from there without removing whole front bumper and rad. I am sure there must be way. Thanks for all help.
  15. I am working from home a lot so little time for car. When belt is out I will post pic of what is left and of pulleys. Few pulleys seem to have rubber in the grooves, like there was tension and the rubber from belt deposited on them (one in particular, others just have bits). Wonder if that is a sign of something. Also, Questions: Can someone help pin point what the part number is for the top of the two horizontal pipes under valve cover in the last pic? The skinnier one? I have been looking in parts catalog but cannot find what it is. Another part that my belt broke. The two parts so far I have to repolace are #14 and #15. Do these carry coolant or are they air vacuum lines? Thanks.
  16. Never too late. I went away for a couple weeks, then had work,then had the coronavirus work stoppage issue, so car took back seat. Now, I have to report I have a case of corona, isolated inside the fridge, and ready to assist with car repair. Picking at it slowly until some parts come in. I have 2 coming, just discovered 3rd plastic hose broken by belt. So once they arrive and I replace I can continue. In mean time planning to remove intake, visually inspect for coolant in valley, see if water pump area bad, although I had a looksie today, and did not look like the pump area was soaked at all. We will see after intake comes off. Also, those plastic hoses, I wonder if they carry coolant or just vacuum. If coolant that will explain all the coolant dump. I will try to post up a diagram of what parts got broken for better look.
  17. My coolant pipes were done about 4 years ago, at which time water pump was changed too. Drive belt was done too, that is about 60k miles I guess. As an update: UPDATE. Been while since touched the car. Was away for more than 2 weeks. Now got the valve cover seals done. Getting to drive belt and leak. Need advice what to remove. 3 different vent lines got broken by belt...all near front of engine, driver side, going from top under valve covers and are wrapped in silver heat protectors. Need to see how I can remove and reinstall mew ones. Also another vent line going from center of engine towards these (with valve) got broke too. here are some pics of area, wanted to get advice on what to remove to make space. Some pulleys look like have been coated with belt rubber so I need to clean then. ALSO, how would I know if a pulley is bad? Last 2 pics are zoom of pipes that need replace. you can see the silver heat protection. Those 2 plus a vent line going from them to a valve center of engine. Maybe more once I get in there. Water pump did not seem leaking but need to pressure test after removing intake. Dont see any looseness yet. Thanks. Here are pics.
  18. Maybe it would be worth to put car up, drain oil into a new bucket, replug the sensor harness after cleaning, and refil to drive. It is possible connections just stale, but have hard time justifying wiring going bad when it is not in overcurrent situation for long, and not physically damaged. That is why I suspect sensors, very mildly, connection places, not the wiring itself though. Advice, as always very appreciated.
  19. As an update, put the car up, to check PDK fluid level, just to make sure it did not leak out to low level or something. Checking level I found it to be full. I did see slight oil sweating around the rear of the PDK oil pan. After the check, I made sure I torque the pan bolts per FSM. They all appeared to be to spec. I added maybe 1Ftlbs on rear bolts for now. Then I took the car for driving. In normal mode I could not get the error to come up, but in sport mode, after PDK was at temp, I did get the same transmission fault error (stopped at a store, went in to buy something, came back out, started car, at which time saw the transmission fault again). Had to stop engine, restart, then stop again, and restart, I think 3 times before error cleared from cluster display. This allowed me to get home. When transmission fault was on, car acted as if it was in neutral, you step on gas and car does not drive. So looks to me like I will be off to a store to get the sensor pack. I do not think I will need the harness, symptoms point to the sensor(s). These are solid state sensors, so I dont know why I would need a PDK recalibration, as these go into exact position by the way they are bolted to the PDK chassis. So I wonder if the PDK recalibration will be required. I understand if some sensor which have specific motion may need calibration since each moves slightly different, but these are just ones that look like a stick, you bolt them in with a screw at location, which fits exactly. Guess we will see. This job looks like will cost - about 650 for sensor pack, plus PDK oil cost (I am sure if I captured old into clean bucket I can reuse since oil is maybe 15 or 20k old), plus PDK oil pan cost. I assume about 1k cost to do myself, From posts others stated, this would be about 5k at dealer. Guess if you want to play with nice toys, you best be prepared to have best wallet for them too.
  20. Gathering some information for PDK transmission fault. Last week son drove PTT to store, when came out said reversed out of park spot, and when shifted into drive it was acting as in neutral. Called me. Told him to turn car off, he did. Restarted and car drove just fine even though transmission fault still stayed on. I scanned car after he returned, got errors all over the place (99% of them are because car was in sport mode and sport+ pasm). So most of these were tripped since PDK got fault so car was not allowed to have the sport modes. Anyway, I scanned and the two errors that I saw were shift rod 1 sensor implausible signal, and shift rod 2 implausible signal. After I cleared the codes, car drove just fine. Then, couple days ago, took car for a quick battery charge 15 minute drive. Car again was in sport/sport+ suspension, and on way back (guess car warmed up fully by then), stopped at a light. At green, tried to drive but car acted as if it is in neutral. So I went through the gears from D to P, back to D, back to P. Turned car off. Started car, and car drove perfectly fine then, even transmission fault error disappeared (still have to scan car to see if errors in memory). So gathering my info. Saw few posts on this. My battery was very questionable. Since starter went it was suspect last year. Kept it just because i was not sold on it being bad (tested ok). But over last 3 months, car got discharged fully, had to boost,and noticed the hatch on way down gave error, electronics like that on fritz especially if using Burmester at loud levels (son loved to do that and that is when I was noticing batt. issues). So this spurred me take battery today in. Tested and showed not far from bad on tester, but when I looked at one side of battery, it started bulging out. So off i went spending another couple hundred on AGM battery. Just put it back in, drove car around neighborhood trying to cause issue was could not. Hoping that is what it is, bad battery. Tomorrow I think I will put car up and check the level of PDK fluid. If it is low, could mean sensors may be heated even more. Saw some oil sweat around PDK pan last oil change. Tightened bolts a little, too cheap to spend another 500 to get new pan/oil (just did PDK fluid change maybe 25k miles ago). If you have info, let me know. I was so hoping I wont be putting together more DIYs, but seems it was optimistic. So far, if error comes back, I will need the PDK sensor array (about 650), maybe the harness (quite not convinced it is needed as it only provides physical connection, and if not damaged should be fine (about 200). Then would need the PDK pan (another 300), PDK oil (another 250). Then I read I will need PDK re-calibration (I could buy that when sensors are replaced, only thing these are solid state sensors, so nothing physical to calibrate, but we will see. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Car drivable, but I am trying to spare it. After battery change I will try to duplicate issue to see if battery resolved it. FYI, Porsche is the World leader when it comes to making cars that are very sensitive to voltage/current levels when it comes to all its subsystems. 50% of all issues can be traced to weak battery. So I am really really hoping this is it. We shall see.
  21. lol. still dont see a pic. Unless the pic is a borderless, image of white color only.
  22. Have question. Serpentine belt broke. Son was driving car and parked it when it happened. In addition, when I arrived to car, noticed there was coolant leaking out. Any ideas/suggestions about that? Would coolant typically leak with drive belt broken? I did not think it would, but water pump pulley is in the path of drive belt so was thinking maybe strain on the pulley caused the leak. I hope someone on here can: - help explain the coolant leak - can provide advice for what to check as I get ready to repair the drive belt to make sure I fix the car not just the belt Appreciate guidance and help on this.
  23. DIY: Panamera S/Turbo Starter Replacement I had the privilege recently to replace starter on my vehicle. Symptom was car was not starting, when attempting, I heard a clicking sound from under the hood (when hood opened, clicking comes from the area under intake manifold, where the starter is). The clicking comes from solenoid trying to engage starter, but the starter motor not turning on. After fuse checking, and making sure battery is good, next step was starter. Given the clicks, and other items being fine (and no other engine errors Author ciaka Category Panamera (970) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 12/09/2019 10:09 AM
  24. I had the privilege recently to replace starter on my vehicle. Symptom was car was not starting, when attempting, I heard a clicking sound from under the hood (when hood opened, clicking comes from the area under intake manifold, where the starter is). The clicking comes from solenoid trying to engage starter, but the starter motor not turning on. After fuse checking, and making sure battery is good, next step was starter. Given the clicks, and other items being fine (and no other engine errors), my next step was starter replace. Long story short, it was the starter. Replaced my turbo starter with genuine Bosh starter, price $255 shipped from eBay. Porsche PN: 948 604 210 01 Bosh PN: SR0447N Intake seal PN: 948 110 146 01 (will need 😎 Below is a DIY for removing and re installing new starter into the car. If you have done things like coils/plugs replacement, this should be a breeze for you. Even if you have not done more than oil changes, it is not difficult, but takes time. So if you do not feel like spending about $1800 for this at the shop, you can do the job yourself, spend about $250 on the part, plus about 2 days of work (this is worst case, if you have not done any work on your car yet). Take time, be patient, mind all hoses in the way (if you crack and do not know it, you will be back there to replace these, and PD may be tricky, so why not just keep an eye on everything). Torques in pictures, follow the sequence. I recommend you read all of the steps, so you can understand the process before you begin. Then get some beer, turn up your favorite tunes, and go to work. Enjoy and hope this helps others in similar situation
  25. On my CTT, the HID lights, when turned on, start out by dipping and then gradually raising up to predescribed level. Some time ago, I noticed that the passenger side light does not do that, It just turns on and stays put, while the driver side headlight still goes through its startup routine. I want to solve this and wanted to see if anyone knows what the problem may be. Thank you for help.
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