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ciaka
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Posts posted by ciaka
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If anyone can show a diagt
Ram of area that is affected, would greatly appreciate it too.
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Can you tell me which hoses/clamps to start with?
Are they the hoses/clamps that go away from the t-shaped plastic tube at intake? Where do they go from there?
Trying to get a good idea of the area to PD.
Also, would this have anything to do with fuses I was pulling shed doing PD of my PCM? I ended pulling momentarily all fuses in inside of driver door, including the two orange ones...just bringing this up in case it may be related.
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So I was working on my headlight (corner light was out). The light kept off for a while. Decided to crank out the durametric.Scanned for errors and noticed that there is a turbo charger underboost error. Never PDd turbos before. Easy? Hard on this car? Here is a pic of the actual error in Durametric:Error: P2B01 Next clip is a vid of the boost pressure I see when in accerleration from stop and from rolling 55mph, to show the boost needle vs speed/rpm. Hope someone can comment if normal....does not feel like it since I was able to see the full .8 bar on the needle from what I remember. Given the error, there is something amiss for sure.
Here are my questions:1. From the did, pic and info, do I have a problem that needs looking into?2. Where do I start now? Have of done any turbo PD, so want to understand where the areas of interest/possible issues are first.3. Provided that there is something in need of replace, what would be parts/part numbers that would be first candidates to change?4. Can someone show me what areas of interest are from a diagram, etc? Would like to know better where in car these parts are and how difficult they are to access (for example, to verify hoses, seals, tubes - which ones and where are they to verify)?Appreciate any help you can give.UPDATE (May 26):WTF -I decided to go to Durametric and download/install their latest version of the Durametric SW.My old one was v.6.2.1.2 Beta from June 2012. The latest version I installed today is v.6.3.1.7 Official Release.After I connected the car, noticed that I was not getting the underboost error.Cleared the error from this module. Tried again, same, no errors at all.Cleared ALL faults from all modules.Went for a drive and out of the community, with PSM off just floored it to see if the error will come back.On the way back home, did same - hard acceleration.When came home, connected again to the newest Durametric. NO FAULTS. No turbo charger fault of any kind.So I am stumped. Could it be the sw was using wrong parameters?Based on the vid, is it expected to see boot at this level? I am no longer 100% confident that I saw .8 bar on boost gauge, but I think it could be due to what I am observing.Those of you in the know, please let me know your views. THANKS!! -
Now you got me curious...time to open the sucker up...
I know my PCM 2.1 has an internal cooling fan as I've had it out for cleaning ages ago.
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Can you do us a favor and give us update on any gains after BMC filter add, and any gains after ipd plenum add?There has been some discussions about how much gain each makes, and your plan may help provide answers to this. Thanks in advance.
...I'm going to fit a pair of BMC filters and dyno again to see what difference that makes to my current config, then install the IPD plenum and dyno after that upgrade.... -
When I removed the PCM, noticed that the heat sink the metal part on rear of the unit that the voltage regulators connect to, was getting really hot. Didnt happen to notice any cooling fans in the unit.
If you look at the pic, the heat sink is the only thing I noticed. Do not remember a fan inside, is there?
Have you noticed if the cooling fan in the PCM unit is operating?
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My system is acting up and while I am trying to find root cause, I wonder if you can help me get info on what today seems to be a good way to go when replacing the factory setup.My car is 05 CTT with Bose option fiber optic cableI would like to retain use of steering wheel controls.Would like to know:1. Make/model of unit that will give touch GPS, radio/cd/dvd/bluetooth, connection to my android phone, etc2. Name of kit that will make a clean face install (if needed) - to look good3. any kit that will be needed for retain of use of steering wheel controls4. anything else that I would need with the unit if choosing to go this way.Not looking for latest/gratest, as I do not have 2K to play with. So cheaper is good, good balance being best. Maybe between 600-800 or cheaper if possible.Looking as much as possible to be plug N play (with fiber connections)Really appreciate your help in advance.
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It is on my 05 CTT with Bose system (fiber optic connector to radio).So I was driving the other day and just happen to break on the hard side, and noticed that the radio unit reset itself (screen went black, then Porsche logo came on, then back to radio).It did that a couple times. Got home, removed the radio (which was hot). Unplugged the wires in rear of the unit. Left as is (had something to do).Later, plug it all together, and all seems fine. For about a week.Today, driving to a friend, same thing, radio reboots itself. See the Porsche white background with logo, then sometimes to to radio, and sometimes goes blank again.Since then, nothing seems to work. When unplugged, noticed unit was very hot again (the heat sink in rear and the chassis too).When made the car quiet, noticed that there was an amp or something else from the rear of the car, I could hear a fan spun up trying to cool whatever it was that was running. When I unplugged the connector paired with the fiber optic connector the fan on whatever piece of hardware stops running after about 5 seconds. Towards the end of troubleshooting, noticed that when the connector is plugged in, the fan is not running when I become quiet (but that could be due to the unit not being hot yet).Resets itself many times if left alone. When I press the 1+4+8 buttons to reset, it will, but sometimes will go blank until I reset again. sometimes press the power button to turn it on, it will, but when radio comes on, I can only work the controls for about 2 seconds (enough to change station or volume a bit). After I do the one thing I can, the buttons will not work. Have to reset the unit again. Then back to square 1. Either buttons do not work, or will for just a short time again just like earlier.So now, ended up disconnecting that connector (which cuts the power off to the unit). Hoping someone on here can give tips to do PD and hopefully resolve this issue. Thanks in advance.
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Are there DIY articles for this job? Wondering about mine, although I have little over 70k miles on my clock.
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np. hope the vids help show the differences.
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anyone?
anyone?
Of those who switched to Toyota T-IV ATF for tranny fluid replacement, how many miles have you driven since, and have you experienced any issues or warnings (anything of note)?Would be greatly beneficial to others who have been monitoring this. Thanks.
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Is there a fuse for the brake booster? I thought there was one, probably under the hood, under the cover near the brake fluid (driver side). Check the manual and look at the fuses to make sure not blown (although you did say it worked on/off which would not be in line with blown fuse). Just another place to check. Relay would make sense though, if getting stuck sometimes.
Does anyone know if the vacuum pump has a relay?? I have had the brake booster light on and off for a month. Yesterday I went to push the brake and it was all leg to stop the 6k lb. I have read most forums and checked all the hoses, pressure tested the line, etc. I took the vacuum pump off and cleaned it, and tested it with a 12v powersupply and it ran well. However, when the pump is connected to the car it turns on just after start up for 5 sec or so and shuts off. This is even if the vacuum line is disconnected from the pump. Ergo, is there a relay that is not doing its job to tell the pump to run longer or at all?
Thanks
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done all the vids now. Hope it provides a decent comparison to those looking into the parts as possibilities for upgrades.
Let me know what you think, if this customized SR1 exhaust was worth it in your view.
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This was installed on an 05CTT.
Over the last couple days I was busy putting in the Leistung secondary cat bypass pipes, as well as the SR1 exhaust. The SR1 exhaust has been modified per my input by Rob, so if you are ordering the typical stock design, it will not sound just like this one does. I made some pics of this exhaust in another thread, showing dimensions, and if you are interested, I can give you more details so that you can communicate with Rob about exactly what you want.This thread will have the different videos that I wanted to shoot to make a good side by side comparison of the resulting sound modification.I will be uploading these as I happen to make them, so if you are interested, check back and look at the initial post, I will be editing to add other videos as I go. I started with near stock 05 CTT, only having KN Filters installed. Comparisons were made against that setup.I will have:KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - IDLING - INSIDE soundKN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - IDLING - OUTSIDE soundKN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - NORMAL DRIVING - INSIDE soundKN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - NORMAL DRIVING - OUTSIDE soundKN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - HARD ACCELERATION - INSIDE soundKN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - HARD ACCELERATION - OUTSIDE soundHope that if you are considering the Leistung products, this will help you make up your mind. IMO, I am sooo glad I did this.Here we go - Here are the Vids:1. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - IDLING - INSIDE SOUNDS -2. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - IDLING - OUTSIDE SOUNDS -3. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - NORMAL DRIVING - INSIDE SOUNDS -4. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - NORMAL DRIVING - OUTSIDE SOUNDS -5. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - HARD ACCELERATION - INSIDE SOUNDS -
6. KN filter / KN+2nd cat / KN+2nd CAT+SR1 - HARD ACCELERATION - OUTSIDE SOUNDS -DONE.
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yup, that's the first thing I would do, reseat connections. let us know how that goes.
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as they said, DIY section stands for Do It Yourself, where people post articles on how to do things. I went to that section, typed in 'battery replacement' and scrolled down.
Clicked on one article that said 'Battery Replacement with Pictures'. Hope it helps you.
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So after a lot of thinking and figuring out, decided to go the safer route and do exhaust and bolt ons first. Finished talking to the man behind leistung and discussed the options they have for my CTT.
He gave me a lot of great tech info about them. Best of all, agreed to make one of the SR1 exhausts for my CTT, and modify it to be even more aggressive. Cant wait for the thing to come here already. Cant wait to hear the sound. Darn, this is the worst part of any purchase. LOL, just said D* A* M* N*, but filter starred it out....lol.
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Would getting ecu tune that is geared to having diverters, second cats out, exhaust, even if you have not installed them, affect the car? If i had that ecu flash, would not be getting other parts for rest of year likely.
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Si i have been eying to put on exhaust (maybe leistung sr1), then later second cat delete, diverter valves, and after that ecu tune.The more i think about it, the more doubt i have.Now, i am starting to think that it would be better to put on the ecu flash and take time to put other parts on later.The dilema i have in deciding exists because some say they have different flashes for different mods.So i keep wondering which would be better, and if it would be bad to put on ecu flash thas assumes i have DV, second cat del, free exhaust, even though i do not, and if it would hurt the car. If i put on the flash i would likely not be able to put on other parts til end of year. That is why i am so undecided. What would you recommend? Getting back to roadracing, there is only so much money and i will have to stick to budget unless i am ok with wife making me sleep in tool shed.
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Can someone tell me in great detail the mechanisms involved, the actions, etc that manipulate the traction control on the CTT? I really want to know everything involved to be able to understand in great detail how it is engaged, how the decisions are made and what sounds, feeling are involved when it is working. Thanks. Its the nuances I am interested in.
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No need to monitor, just listen for banging sound during acceleration and you will know. Then drive carefully home and park til fixed. Easy fix, but takes a while if you never did it before. DIY I posted should work. All seems perfect now. Good luck.
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Sorry...been busy with some other things...will he check and post up asap.
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03-06 Cayenne Transfer Case Fluid Change
Although easy, still see people asking for steps. So here it goes. Each pic has comments in order. Easy to do, takes about 15 minutes. Hope this helps someone else.
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Author
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Category
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Submitted03/30/2013 09:39 PM
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Updated09/27/2016 07:05 PM
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Suggestion for replacement pcm/gps/cd/dvd/radio in 05 CTT w Bose
in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Posted · Edited by ciaka