ciaka

Had some time to do the transfer case fluid change DIY. Posted it up and added a link too. Have fun.

OK.

While doing my TC fluid change, got a chance to inspect this shaft thing again.

I loosened the bolts holding the bushing to bearing bracket (before I did so, I marked the areas to see if after realignment, there was any difference).

Made sure the bolts are nice and loose but did not remove all the way from holes.

Using both hands, moved the shaft in all directions, and also reached up there to move the bushing itself while shaft was being moved. The idea was to let the shaft settle into a natural position.

Marked the location of bolts before started to tighten them, so during tightening, I know where they need to be.

After the process, one of the bolts seemed to be about 1mm more towards rear than it was originally.

Tightened them all nicely.

Took to the road, and tried a few hard accelerations - some in a straight, some in a turn (hopping to reproduce the subtle noise).

I was not able to reproduce the noise at all. Tried a few times and no luck.

I will keep trying once in a while to see if the noise comes back. The realignment seemed to be miniscule but who knows...it may have made a difference. For now, no noise. I will update if that changes.

So how long any of you on the Toyota ATF, have had the car on so far in miles and in months (after changing from Porsche fluid)?

Any comments after your interval (smoother, not smoother, cannot tell diff, etc)?

Just wondering.

i have had a hard time trying to reproduce this. Very seldom.

Was able to repro a couple times when accelerating in a turn (hard acceleration).

Was able to repro once I think when going straight (again, hard acceleration).

Did not manage to look at speedo but it was with foot down on gas.

When I reproed each, I tried again, and each time was unable to replicate (not able to replicate successively one attempt after another to obtain the vibration).

I am still thinking it may be the road conditions????

How does the traction control work on the CTT? Does it apply brakes when accelerating? Is it possible the vibration I am feelling can be coming from the tires momentarily losing grip and the car trying to adjust the power?

I am on Vredestein sessanta tires, and those suckers provide a ton of traction when needed.

During normal driving, I do not have any vibration on steering wheel, no imbalance of any sort, which would imply control arms issues, etc.

The vibration sounded very small, but similar to the shaft noise that I heard when that went (much subdued though, and under hard accel).

I was thinking of the following plans:

1. Crawl under there again, loosen up the bushing mount screws to see if the shaft realigns itself to a different position than it is in now.

2. Asking the company to send another shaft in

However, I wanted to run by you fine folk here for ideas/help.

So I bought the Hopkins 7 blade connector that also has a 4 straight connector on side as pictured above.

When I hooked up to the trailer, I observed:

- left directional works fine

- right directional works fine

- stop lights work fine

- tail lights (ones that are supposed to go on once you turn the headlights on) are NOT on.

Trying to figure out what the issue is. Bought one of them 4 straight testers, plugged in and the only led that is not on is the tail lights one. The others are on when plugged into the hitch connector.

So what could it be? Is the connector I bought not the right one for the CTT? I thought they were universal in a way that if they plug in, they will work. Connection from car harness to the rear of the connector I bought seemed to be identical. Plugged right in.

Thanks for help in advance.

So about a month ago, the drive shaft went on my car.

Purchased a reman shaft from a shop in CO.

Replaced according to service manual instructions. Also replaced the flex disc with the install.

Did not use the alignment tool for the bearing but made sure it was the last thing to tighten up (after playing with it to make sure it settles into a neutral position).

After replacement, all seemed fine when driving regularly (no sudden accelerations, etc).

I took the car on a road and tested fast acceleration in a straight, and noticed a small amt of vibration. Repeated 2 times more to verify. All was done at night. Got me concerned.

Emailed the company thinking I may have an unbalanced/bad? shaft (they replied to call but I did not do so yet at that time).

However, took the car on the same road during day and noticed that the road has some small ripples near side of road, which to me would explain the vibration, especially if one was to drive fast on that road.

So I explained the vibration with those ripples.

Took the car to a different road. This time on hard acceleration in a straight, there was no vibration at all, even with the pedal all the way down.

Repeated several times, and each time same result - no vibration.

My thoughts were, all is fine, all is GOOD!!

As a preventative measure, took the car to my tire shop to do all tire rebalance plus tire rotation.

After driving some time (maybe couple weeks), I happened to accelerate into a curve fast, and noticed similar type of vibration appearing again. Got thinking again.

Tried to repeat. In straight line, nothing. Curve, nothing.

It appears as though the vibration happens intermittently. I am trying to determine whether it may be the shaft, etc. I plan to crawl under there again to visually inspect bushing and realign again.

The vibration is subtle, noticeable and comes from somewhere under the car I assume (not guaranteed center of car, but kind of felt similar to shaft only very subtle), when it does decide to appear.

QUESTION:

Does anyone have any further suggestions for troubleshooting, to help determine if I do have an issue? I do not particularly feel like spending another 500 on another shaft (even though this guy does have a 1 yr warranty). I am confident the install was proper (I am a very meticulous person to do any work on my car - do it right not fast).

As always, help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The forum is to be used be all to get info/advice from others who know already. If someone already asked the question, great.

We all know the search functions well, and if I spent enough time, I would maybe have dug up some info. After brief search, nothing wrong with asking. Who cares if question was asked before already. Remarking that one needs to use search function assumes they did not, which many times is not correct for many of those who ask. Posting remarks like that scares them to go elsewhere, as they are not productive remarks for anyone.

People can have a million questions and comments about brakes for a Cayenne, none of which may specifically deal with question one wants to ask. I consider forum pollution, when someone is not replying specifically to a thread, but talking about other stuff that is not directly addressing the thread questions. Makes it harder for others to find the accurate answer.

Doing a simple search on 'rotors' gets you 4 pages of info. If you start reading, you notice that many threads have nothing to do with what parts need or are recommended to be replaced when changing pads/rotors. You get things like roll calls, some pd questions after changing rotors, etc, etc. Point is, doing a search bring up a ton of stuff that is totally unrelated to the specific question - recommended or required parts to change when replacing rotors/pads.

Sometimes you have answers but these are buried below 4 pages of a totally unrelated post. It would be so easy for those who already know, to just write 1 sentence - 20 seconds. Or do nothing - even simpler.

Maybe you are a whizz at searching forums. 1000 better than I. If so, sorry for being worse than you in searching forums, just do not have the time to spend to learn forum searching on as advanced level as you.

That is what we are all here for, help those who have questions.

Anyways, you did help me out on a couple occasions, and I salute you for that. If you know everything, great - I wish I did know half the stuff you do then, but please do not throw the 'use the search button' reply.

If I have offended you, my apologies, that was not my intent. Please keep in mind that others may be seeking info and may not/will not know as much as you. We should not make it a hard thing to ask questions. Questions are always good.

Have a great day.

The search function works well. I just used it found 5 pages of post with others who had Cayenne brake questions/repair/part number requests. I know for a fact your questions would have been answered as they have been asked before. The best advice to give was to use the search function, how is that being rude?

Why pollute the forum with repeated posts?

sometimes a quick two words are much quicker and serve many more people than responses telling one to go search since someone sometime has said something similar.

Already did quick search and happened not to find, hence the post. Forums are a place for info exchange and yes, sometimes questions are duplicated, but not to cause headaches for all. If you do not feel like answering why not just go to different thread.

Sorry to be harsh, but find it annoying when I see this on forums. Yes, you know the answer, but the one who asks does not. If you know, why not just say it (quick and useful). The 'use search...' - not helpful to community. I answered many many questions on many forums even though covered. Being helpful is simple.

This has been covered before on the site-please use the search function.

05CTT

Does anyone know if there is a requirement/recommendation to change any hardware when rotors/pads are being swapped?

I mean bolts, pins, bushings, rubber seals, etc.

Any places things should be lubed with hi heat grease?

Planning to do this next week and while I am at it, might as well do it properly.

Thank you.

Excellent! So I don't have to return the connector kit then.

Any preference as to which brake controller is a good one for CTT here? Just in case in the future I decide to have a need to use it?

Saw some pretty fancy ones, and some basic ones without any understanding what different features are and what is useful and what is just a gimmick.

As to the 4 pin straight, I think I will just use the kit I just bought, and it can still be used if I decide to add the brake controller (which based on your remarks should be as simple as buying and connecting one in the front).

I have the 05CTT.

When I got it, the hitch already installed (OEM), as well as wiring harness. Looks like the hitch was never used (no scratches at all and connector seems never used either).

The other day got to look into it a bit more.

Unscrewed the little plate covering the wiring connector on the car.... and saw what I show in PIC 1.

So here are my questions:

1. Does the car come with harness that already has ability for brake control?

2. Is there anything else I would have to buy to gain the brake control capability if I needed to have it, with this harness/setup?

3. If I only wanted to use the hitch to tow trailer with straight 4 connector, do I still need to buy a kit that used brake control, or just any kit that plugs into this connector in pic, that translates into 4 straight connector?

PIC 2 shows what I just purchased. It is a connector that is supposed to plug into the 7 blade connector I exposed, and on the other side - PIC 3 - has a 7 blad connection (assuming to trailer which includes brake control, lighting, etc), as well as a connection to a 4 straight connector for a trailer with this connection.

4. Will that setup work on my car? Do not want to screw anything up here...the package does not have Porsche cayenne listed at all, but the connectors on the car side seem to line up exactly, as the ones from the harness under the plate that I exposed.

Help will be greatly appreciated here. Thanks in advance.

Here is my DIY for this job. Not bad, but takes time and knowing which things to do when, to make job easy.

Cayenne Cardan Shaft Replacement DIY

Here is the DIY for the cardan shaft or drive shaft on 03-06 Cayenne - all sub models...

CLICK HERE

I would guess the springs are rubbing on frame attachments somewhere in the seat.

Usually larger people will notice this (due to larger forces involved).

I would check to make sure the seat is secured to floor as first step. Sometimes the leather rubs against itself in places where surfaces touch.

Try to use leather conditioner and make sure to get those spaces where leather touches. That could be an area as well.

Hope this helps.

Allright, got it out.

Will post a DIY so that you can see how to do this without having to pull the exhaust.

To think about it, easy but still a PITA to do this. Of all things, mailman was supposed to bring the flex disc by noon, and it is still not here yet. Got pissed as this is the only thing stopping me from finishing this. Paid for overnight shipping and nada. They better refund the money.

Will update after I am done.

Thanks.

So I am doing this work.

Ordered a replacement shaft and flex disc.

Managed to do the following:

- Removed triple square bolts from rear of shaft

- Removed the 3 bolts holding flex disc to shaft (bolts + nuts + washers)

- Removed the 3 bolts holding flex disc to tranny (bolts + nuts + washers)

- Loosened exhaust hangers at mid point of car (total 2, one on each side of car), plus two front hangers (the ones next to the cats on each pipe), plus loosened the hangers for muffler as well (not removed but all loosened).

- Loosened the shaft off tranny and rear diff - shaft is now free and unattached

My problem:

I am having a very hard time removing the actual shaft so I can stick a replecement in there.

Can someone give me a secret of what they did to remove the actual shaft?

It seems not to be able to come out rear first (sliding back - the rear shaft too long and unless exhaust is off, I do not see that happening)

It seems not to want to come out via pushing it to the front either. After removing the disk , there seems to be space to push the shaft forward, positioning the front part adjacent to the transfer case, but even if I push down on the exhaust, I seem not to be able to get enough clearance to move the front part of it past the cross member (tranny cross member), to spit it out. I assume I will have same difficulty with putting new one in.

Any tricks, additional steps will be very apreciated. It has gotten dark (started late) and I will have to finish tomorrow.

Thanks.

Ordered my parts and going to do the job soon, but still getting split info on the flex disc. A shaft shop I spoke to said the disc is made of a very hard rubberized material with special mesh in it to prevent failures, and as a result almost never needs replacement. Just wanted to see what others say on this matter. I will be replacing mine regardless, just wanted to get more input on it for future use.

Look for:

- Lowest mileage you can get

- Coolant pipes replace

- Card an shaft fithnflex disc replace

- Coils

- Plugs

- Clean (look in crevices since most cars will be cleaned for sale), so you have to look into places where it is hard to clean to see how car was taken care of.

- Tires (newer the better - not cheap to replace)

- Brakes (same as above - not cheap to replace)

- Fave color scheme

the lowest setting for the vehicle is called loading level. from what I understand that level it's not meant to be driven on. so when you are in this level and you crossed 15 miles per hour vehicle automatically goes up to the low level.

once you are in the lower level the car it should not be going up or down automatically.

when going fast about 120 miles per hour I believe (think exact number is 126 or so), if you are not in the lower level the car will automatically lower to it

Lol...when I read it I did too think it was oddly named and some Italian enthusiast would raise up his hand to maybe correct.

.... Also be sure to buy a new guido (flex disk).....

LOL! Just to be sure to stay on the good side of the Sopranos, it is called a "guibo" coupling or disc. I have replaced a number of those on my '71 BMW 2002. Regards, Maurice.

Does anyone have answers to below question?

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

Thanks. That is exactly why I was asking about the disc. I know the companies tell you many things you need, but it is often not clear reasons why. So I was hoping to get feedback from those who actually were in situations, and thanks for the input. I will make sure to have the disc changed too. Maybe can get a nice DIY write up from it too if I feel like it. Thanks again.

Why is the swap of the flex disc necessary? A place I inquired wrt shafts told me they have not seen a bad one yet from their 20 or so experience with the car. It is a thick (rubber?) disc and does not seem to be damaged (unless it gets damaged due to exposure to environment/heat and becomes brittle).

I did not replace the fex disc the first time and had trouble with the replacement shaft - it eventually failed in about 6 months. I contacted vertex and they said I should have replaced the flex disc at the same as the shaft and i think the online warrenty statement said that at the time i had the failure (i don't remember that language in the warranty at the time i first bought the replacement shaft). Regardless of when the warranty language was changed (if it ever was changed) they honored their warranty and sent me a new replacement shaft and I bought a new flex disc to go with it. I did not want to do the job twice and would have bought the new flex disc at the time i bought the first shaft if they had advised me to do so. In any event, i installed the the new flex disc and replacement shaft and it has been great from the first mile.

I would buy the replacement flex disc if I were you. Do it once and be done with it. THe flex disc is easy to change since you are right there.

Good luck with the replacement. It really is a very easy job.

Not afraid to do this on my own. Spending some time and making sure the job is done with proper care is more important to me than dropping car of at a shop and praying that they do not assign some wannabe apprentice to do the jo.

I have worked on numerous cars and swapped multiple parts, except major engine or tranny work (major PITA and time consuming).

So I will be doing this no problem, and will see if I feel to do a DIY for this specific repair to post.

Why is the swap of the flex disc necessary? A place I inquired wrt shafts told me they have not seen a bad one yet from their 20 or so experience with the car. It is a thick (rubber?) disc and does not seem to be damaged (unless it gets damaged due to exposure to environment/heat and becomes brittle).

Vertexauto.com is a great place to get a rebuilt shaft. Also be sure to buy a new guido (flex disk). They will give you a warranty (i used the warranty and they were great to work with). Easy to change if you are mechanically inclinded. A helper is also a plus.

is it better to get a new shaft or is a rebuilt one OK? They all seem to come with the flex disc, the shaft and joint support.

There is a web site vertexauto.com which has rebuilt one for about 390 and a new one for about 530. all free shipping (3day).

Is the VW way a cheaper way? How would the shafts compare?

Thank you for your help in advance.