ciaka

OK. I went under the car. Crawled under it and pressed the shaft near the joint and support. I see play of at least an inch - when pressing up or sideways. What do you recommend now?

- what is cheapest place to get shaft from?

- any shafts that are more durable?

- what will I need to replace - assume the shaft, the joint support and the flex disc? Can you confirm?

- anything special about rplacement? Should be fine with raising suspension and turn the wrench?

Thanks

Planning to do that tonite.

Yes, the CTT does have the Cardan Shaft and it has not been replaced yet. I was holding out on putting my views on these symptoms so that I do not taint people's opinions.

Can anyone address the questions I posted above too? Thanks.

Yesterday, driving home from work, I was at lights and turned right, accelerating very moderately. I felt vibration coming out of bottom of car, felt kind of under the center console, middle of car.

Thought nothing of it.

Later, driving to gym, accelerated and felt thuding noise from same area (acceleration was faster this time). Seems to do this every time I accelerate.

Later yet, driving back, I tried and it seemed not to be doing that under similar acceleration, however, due to having to do an errand, drove again, and tried to duplicate.

This time, it was doing it under lesser acceleration.

Today, on the way to work, same, starts happening under smaller acceleration and i can feel it.

Have a lot of questions, but will start with:

1. what do you think it is?
2. can the car be still driven in such condition if not accelerating harder? I am talking a week or two?
3. what is the risk of getting stranded if not fixed immediately?

Will ask other questions after responses, so that I do not taint the thread with my views.

Thanks.

After I replaced my battery, I had the steering angle sensor error and it did not go away after reset of faults via software.

I turned the car on, backed out of driveway and started driving, which almost immediately corrected the error and it disappeared from the cluster.

Again, I had this after batt. replace, but just in case someone looks, it may help others.

Got it replaced yesterday. Got the Gold series Autozone battery in. Total cost OTD (after old batt turned in) was just around $150.

Replacement was easy (there is a write up on here for this, making it very simple).

After replaced, had some errors, used Durametric to clear.

Then, some PSM and ABS errors still persisted. Took car for a drive, which immediately cleared the remaining errors from cluster and all is well, back to normal - aka, perfectly fine car.

Thanks.

Looks like the right tire to be wearing in that part of the country.

Due to me living down south, I did not venture this way for my car tires. So far I have great exerience with the Vredestein Sessanta tires.

Sounds like a good choice for you though (I think Sessanta would not be optimal in your state - if yes, only for 3 months out of the year then).

Batt is OEM and original since new.May be time for new one, that's what I kind of suspected.

Went on vacation for a week and a half. After returning, the CTT was dead (engine did not want to turn over), but waited a bit, turned everything else off and it did start. Drive for a while and it seemed OK. About week later (today), tried start again and this time nothing. Won't turn over. Appears as discharged battery.

My questions are:

1. Is the under seat batt, the main batt for starting (replacing)?

2. Where is other batt?

3. Would it be wiser to try trickle charge it before determine it is bad? Would need to buy charger first though.

4. What is a decent replacement batt, and from where, so I don't spend 300 bucks for it?

Overall, looking for advice on plan of action on this (to me appears replace it, butt wanted second opinion from you fine folks).

Thanks.

i looked at same tires in 20" size too (was investigating changing rims to other sizes). For 20", the tire is still more expensive. About 25-30 bucks per tire.

Looked at other tire vendors too and they all seemed to be more expensive the larger tire you get....mind you, these are Y rated tires for comparison to others.

My biggest question will be answered as I go, with how much mileage i get out of them. Hope it is not something silly like 10Kmi.

I did the front diff and rear diff fluid change. Also, just added the Transfer Case fluid change DIY as well.Posted DIY for Cayenne if you are interested - Front Diff. DIY, Rear Diff. DIY, Transfer Case Fluid change DIY.Hope this helps others, especially the new to Cayenne people.Thanks.

It has been several hundred miles and I can report that I am very happy with the purchase. Grip is unbelievable on this tire, in dry and in wet. Quiet ride. WOW. Very happy, indeed.

I will try to track how many miles I get out of these. I have seen many diverging stories on this. I consider myself a 'in the middle' type of driver (sometimes like to take turns fast, sometimes on the mellow side). If you are looking for replacement, my recommendation is to look at these.

Total price for all 4 (275/45 19) was:

Tires: $1028 (shipping was free, no tax)

Install/balance: $160

TOT: $1188

This included lifetime balance and rotation, as well as flat fix.

These tires have a clearly marked side to be installed on the inside. The label is 'inside'. No way to miss it. The side groove around the circumference of tire goes closest to inside of car on each wheel.

Holy crap...one could make a chapter book with all these codes. I will have you in my prayers.

who is the tutorial on how to remove and do a bunch of things with a PCM. find a video you need and it should help you out

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-955-957/192424-porsche-radio-nav-pcm-2-1-faulty-screen-replacement-tutorial-video-how.html

it is on a different forum so get a user ID and a password and you'll be able to view the videos no problem. good luck.

...so far so good...great traction in the dry. Awesome actually. no rain yet. Looks great, is quiet and translates power into acceleration with great grip well.

I have been reading a lot about which tires to put on next.

With the existing ones wearing out, I found myself being more 'trigger happy' on the gas pedal through turns, etc.

This, in my mind, was getting me closer to a new set of tires.

Through research and views of those who have had them before, I decided on the Vredestein Sessanta tires. Stock size 275/45/19.

Thought about going one size up in width (285) but in the end decided against. Would be good either way.

The stock size looks a little bit fatter than the old tires I had on there (michelin Latitude sports).

Have only got a few miles with these, but I can really tell less tire noise while driving (even when old ones were great condition).

Have not been testing grip yet, but I am sure it will come down to that soon (lol) - with the F1 coming to Austin in a few weeks, I am sure we will have tons of people day dreaming on highways here).

Here are some pics...

Hi. I did that in the dying section. ~67k on Odo. Fluid looked almost black, looking closely had some greenish tinge. Appeared very thin in consistency (almost like water). Take a look at the write up that show pics - in dying section - maintenance section, named rear diff fluid change.

OK. I did the rear differential today (will be doing the front soon).

Posting the DIY info for all those who have been asking questions.

Thanks.

This is a pic from the rear of the car (looking towards the front).

Can you confirm that this is the rear differential, and #2 is the drain plug, and #1 is the fill plug

1 - fill plug

2 - drain plug

Want to confirm before doing the job. Thank you yet again.

buy turbo

...better to have it and not need it, rather than need it and not have it.

Yup. I plan to have little clearance and already have a volunteer key that will be cut.

check on that one. I was just thinking the same thing yesterday night: 'what if - i cannot open the fill plug'...lol.

I was also going to pull it to verify the level that the diff. was filled to. I assume it will be to the bottom of fill hole (as in many cars is the case). In case the level is lower than that, I assume having more oil is not going to hurt the diff.

So I will put in:

- Synthetic Mobil 1 75W90 LS into rear and front Differentials

Still a question:

- will this fluid be fine for Transfer case: CLICK HERE

...it is available at advance auto parts and O'Reily auto parts, so I would not have to go out of the way to get some.

Thanks for help.

One suggestion - BEFORE removing the drain plug, make sure you can get the fill plug out. More then one person has ended up having to tow a car to a professional to get the fill plug removed after draining the differential (or transmission) and finding the fill plug was not coming out..

I thought I would compile this information especially for those new to the forum and Porsche Cayenne, to make it easier to have the info needed.

Hope it helps. If anyone notices mistakes, please let me know and I will correct asap (got this info from service manuals).

I've been looking at this type of info and i think i will go with the synthetic mobil 1 75W90 fluid. It is for limited slip, hence the LS in the name. It does have friction modifiers in it. I have been reading from other users who went the mobil way and were fine. Just wanted to post as a sanity check. I assume you just undo drain plug, let it all come out, put drain plug back in, open fill plug and top up until drips when car level? Then close fill plug and done. Anything else i am missing here? Thanks.