ciaka

Getting ready to do fluid change on the front and rear differentials on my 05 CTT and just wanted to get final advice on fluid.

Have been searching and found that changing with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W90 gear oil would be good. Just wanted to run by as last sanity checkbefore I get going. Will greatly appreciate this last minute confirmation.

If you can also give me pointers on location of the drain plugsd on the front and rear, it would be great (will look up in manual too but if you already know the location and can share thee info it would be awesome).

Thanks.

Thanks psychobenzrunner. Again.

Funny, was researching more on oil quality, manufacturing process, dealer service shops, and everything that ties these together. You know what common thread I see? Quality of oil has dramatically increased, so have choices. However auto industry did studies which showed that if auto owner stays with old (3000 mile) service interval, over the life of the car, the companies making them see an additional profit if $1800 per car. Multiply that over millions of cars and what our have is a thriving revenue without any other justification than trying to keep people uneducated about this.

Info i came across talks about how lube shops specifically employ tactics to make customers think something 'may' go wrong if you do not change at 3K miles. People are stuck in the old ways.

sorry...lol...keep forgetting..

2005 cayenne turbo

Anyone? Anyone?

I need part number of the fasteners that hold the trim piece (dark plastic going down bottom side of front door, on outside). You can see the trim when you open the front door, then look down on outside of door opening, where bottom of door meets the chassis of car. There is a small plastic piece, dark, which is heldby white plastic fasteners (inside of the trim). If you pull the trim and twist up a bit, you can see the fasteners (I need the part number for those white fasteners). See pic.

Lol... I get you, but for a porsche look, you will have to spend some porsche $$$. But lookz like you resolved your issue to your liking anyway. Thats what counts.

Good job molitoth.

If you have no errors thrown, the light will go off after drivinv for a few minutes (sensors report to control units which adjust warning lights - takes time).

Those who have durametric, just reset the lights to get same result.

Great to see you have yours fixed.

hi mike. thank you for your explanation on the oil service interval reminder. this is the type of stuff I always wondered about on this car. I am an engineer too, and I always like to know how things work and why, rather than just accepting that they do. it is nice to know to find out exactly how the oil serviceice reminder works on the cayenne, and what makes it appear sooner or later. thanks and I'll let you know when to change oil again I will be trying the castrol edge brand next. Tires coming next, followed by trannie fluid, and diff fluid changes too.

noticed that and what I intended to write was 5w40 (guess mind doesnt click as fast these days). Corrected it. Thanks.

Thanks for the info again.

Here is a quick question, once you change oil and reset the service light with durametric, do you drive until the light comes on, or do you track miles to know when to change?

Trying to see if I should just keep driving until the light comes on, or change at about 7500 (if I do, I think I will give the castrol edge a try - 5w40). I used to use Castrol products in all my cars and could see differences in rpms on a car, vs speed they go at, etc. So I am confident that Mobil 1 is not the only company that makes an oil which would be suitable for your car.

Here is a decent article for those who want to read up on what the oil numbers really mean and how they affect engine parts, etc. CLICK HERE

...issue fixed. Son won't remember it looked lame....and the fix did not cost $500.

great. Thanks again.

thanks Mike. very good read for me. i replaced my oil which was really easy (as opposed to what several shops told me when i wanted it changed - made me anxious until i started pulling covers).

so far i put about 5k miles on the oil (used mobil syn 0W40).

with the top ups of oil on the urbo, i assume will be safe to go 10k miles between changes (top up replenishes oil and adds new to existing oil, helping to trap debris in suspension rather than let it settle).

what i will do is wait for the service reminder before another change. i will also monitor brakes. my first purchase will be more tires though. planning on vredestein sessanta same size as oem (maybe 1 size wider).

thanks again, and thanks for offer on questions if i have some. so far, loving the car. put about 7k mi on it since bought 5 months ago.

could this be the part number?

955 528 607 01

this seems to have a ring to go around filler openinug...i do not recall this on my cap (maybe flaked out too?)

...actually, it looks like this part is for the engine coolant cap, not the washer fluid cap (whisch is what i seek). any ideas?

955-106-447-20 Coolant tank cap -- US MSRP $9.17

...great. thanks...not true at all what they say about you...lol ... j/k.

Does anyone know the part number for the Cayhenne Turbo (2005) - Washer fluid reservoir cap? It is the blue cap visible on passenger side, under the hood. Mine has been flaking off little by little and does not look nice and pretty as it did when new. Looking for a Cayenne, I noticed quite a bit of these being in such state and assume this is just the heat getting to the cap (and improper material selecion during design).

Thanks.

If your brake booster itself was bad, you would know right away because you would have to stand on your brakes to stop the car. without brake booster you have to apply extreme forces to brake pedal, to make a car stop. If the brakes 'feel' fine, it might be something else, like vacuum lines, others spoke about. If you are trying to be proactive, it may be premature to replace (unless you have money and time to change, and even then you may be replacing a well functioning part).

for the life of me I cannot find the name of the small fasteners that keep the plastic black covers on inside the engine bay. Round, have to use flat screwdriver and turn them quarter turn to take them in/out. where would be best/cheap place to get these? Thanks in advance.

saw some for about 250 each, but panels may have had scratches (removed from wrecked cayenne at a junk yard). seems like an expensive way to get screens in rear windows. for that price, seems like getting a good tint job on all windows would make sense.

tread life is a hard one since apparently most vendors have their own rating for tread life (so rating on tire a does not compare to rating on tire B). From what I have heard, vredesteins are very good on tread life compared to some of the popular brands. Tread pattern makes tires nice and quiet. I do not worry about snow performance since where I live we do not see any of it (very rare). Supposed to be good in rain too. Many users who tried them swore by them. I am willing to give it a try too.

They are on par (expense wise) with other major vendors for their tires.

Ultimately I wont know until I try them as others who buy tend to promote their purchase decisions. So we will see.

How would you compare the vredestein sessanta to the tires you see as the proper ones for the car?

what about tire life, reduced NVH etc?

i have pirelli's on my 911s and am interested to explore other options. just replaced pirelli's on my f-150 platinum with some michelin ltx m/s2. without a doubt the best tires I've ever purchased. quiet, grippy in most conditions, and with long tread life. expensive, perhaps. but in long run well worth every penny. tires are not something I skimp on. never understood how someone can own a 100k car and put the cheapest tires on it.

...actually i did. it was between that and the vredestein sessanta.

i am trying to decide between 275/45 19 and 285/45 19.

the difference is about 4mm more in sidewall height (for the 285/45 19), and how it would affect handling realistically. i know more sidewal means more lean, but would love to hear from someone who knows from real life.

i would advise to stay with OEM size. Too much engineering went into a car like yours for anyone to be tinkering without changes to the suspension etc. have you looked at the Continental ExtremeContact DWS?

...as fyi, if you are at the min mark (and the oil low warning has turned on), it will take you about 1.5 quarts to get to the max mark.

FOUND THE PROBLEM AND SOLUTION.

Note: This solution is just one of many possibilities in this system. There is some piping involved in the brake system and several locations exist, which coiuld be the issue. My isue was just one of several (so keep in mind when troubleshooting - check this location to see if this solution will work for you).

Problem: Found a pipe cracked near the firewall (aboiut 2 inches before the pipe enters the firewall, at the joint between the plastic pipe and a joining connector from another pipe which goes into the hose).

See pictures.

Solution: Used high heat electrical tape to tightly wrap up the cracked area. Used several 3 layers as the area expands when trying to insert hose connector into it. After wrapping, used 3 small zip ties (not shown in pics), to reinforce the crack area to prevent it from spreading when inserting the hose connector.

After putting everything together, used Durametric to reset the faults. DONE.

Other comments:

This area contains other hoses, so be careful when working here, as you may accidentally crack other attachment points.

Hope the pics help to show what I fixed in my case of this warning.