ciaka

yup. Not very hard to do, just takes some time.

I made a DIY for this as well, I guess there are two of these now to choose from.

Mine was located here.

well, at the shop now and being done (flush/vacuum pull/fill with 134a).

Same vendor of ac compressor for the 3.2L engine came up as 60-01490 I believe.

Interestingly enough, when searching the site of place where i bought it, they had a section for common questions/etc.

One of them was the connector does not fit. Their explanation was that in some cases the connection may not be identical, in which case, without voiding warranty, one can use the connection from old unit (with proper insulation during the process). I had these connected and used shrink tubing on each lead, then on overall cable and used the heat shielding that the cabling comes with anyway.

Soon enough we will know, but I am super confident that this will be a success. Main thing is they do a good job flushing the system out, making sure vacuum is pulled and then all else is a piece of cake.

I should have 2 DIYs from this:

1. Replcement of AC compressor for 03-06 CS/CTT (will put in caveat about connection so that each person makes up their mind on this - and based on outcome from today's meet with the shop)

2. Replacement of Drier for 03-06 C/CS/CTT (will put in info on when is a good idea to change)

I am thinking of troubleshooting my boost leak error P0299. Have questions and hope you fine folks can assist.

1. Are there boost pressure leak kits available for sale for cayenne 03-06 turbo? Not talking about dealer tools costing thousands. Looking for cost effective tools that can be bought.

2. If I have to make my own boost pressure leak kit, does anyone have info on materials list to make it? Sizes, diameters, etc.

3. Assuming I get a kit to PD my boost leak, where would be the best place to block off the piping to start the testing. Do i need to disconnect/block off at one place only, two places, etc.

My plan would be to pressurize to about 12 psi (1bar = 14.7psi), then use soapy water to start spraying each pipe component and junction to see if I observe bubbling. But need advice on where best place to disconnect/block off/connect the kit to for the PD.

If you can advise with a pic or diagram to ensure it is clear what areas you refer to, it would be awesome. Here are diagrams to refer to parts by number, so there is no confusion.

4. Anyone in Austin TX that would be willing to help in PD (thought I would ask anyway - really want to learn about it regardless).

Thanks for help.

Diagram 1 -

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2013/post-79141-0-50523800-1369979044.jpg

Diagram 2 -

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2013/post-79141-0-16333500-1369978778.jpg

Your P0441 error code is most likely due to a failed purge valve, or evap control valve (same thing different naming).

Let me guess. You pull up to a gas station, and fill up, only to find that you have a few very hard starts (car having a hard time starting up), before you finally are able to start and go. After that, no problem starting until you get to a gas station again.

If that is the case, your chances of purge valve are in the upper ninety percentile close to 100.

I had same errors. Bought purge valve online, replaced myself in under couple hours (with taking picks, etc).

I created a DIY for others to follow should they have similar issue.

You can find it HERE:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/291-purge-valve-replacement-03-06-cayenne-tt/

Good luck and let us know how it went.

confirmed with store and from online resources, get this compressor for my make/model/engine size. 05CTT 4.5L turbo.

They are identical in mold, all lines fit just fine, the only diff is the connector on new one has black line grounded at ac compressor chassis, and red line goes into conector, whereas on old one, black and red lines on compressor go into a connector. Connector on new one is slightly different (same shape). Can plug it in, but the red prong inside connector looks thinner and there is no black prong (since gounded at chassis of ac compressor).

SO my plan: remove connector from old ac compressor, fit to new compressor so that connection to car is identical.

Assuming compressor is for the car, do you see this a logical step? Researched and since this connection activates/deactivates compressor, then it should all fit fine.

Lemme know if you can. Putting things back together. That drive belt it a biach to do (putting in a new one anyway).

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement.

Yes.

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.

For 2005 CTT 4.5L engine.

Both compressors are same. Lines same location, mount holes in exact same place too. Only diff us the two wires coming out of the ac unit. Old one has both wires going into connector. New one has Black wire going to ac.compressor chassis, the red going into connector. The new ac unit connector is also slightly different. I plan to transplant connector from old one. Any comments?

so I am doing this today. The replacement ac compressor is new denso unit for 05 CTT per sales person I was discussing this with.

AC compressor not hard to remove at all (no need to take off tire either or lining in wheel well).

However, when I got to hood up the power connector (I assume clutch engage connection), noticed that the new compressor connector internally has one prong (red), whereas the old compressor connector had two prongs (red/black). The new connector prong is much thinner and there seems to be a plastic edge inside the connector, preventing me from making complete contact.

SOOOOO....I am pissed. CAN THIS BE MADE TO WORK AS LONG AS I GET GOOD CONNECTION?

What are my options? Can this be retrofitted to work? remove connector from old compressor and wire it into the new compressor? I NEED HELP HERE. car apart and I really think return/reorder is the last option I am thinking of at this time.

THANKS.

already did and compressor is gone for sure with the clutch.

been looking for info from those who did it, how easy is access/removal of ac compressor and drier. Will be doing it weekend I think. maybe make a DIY artie of it too.

I purchased the R1 concepts performance series of rotors for my 05CTT. Awesome, and great price too.

Fronts are directional vanes (remember, when spinning vanes are supposed to let air out from center of wheel, vs. forcing air into the center of the wheel - many mechanics make this mistake when installing).

Rears are non directional vanes (so can go onto your car either way).

Slotted and drilled, with coated hats (black) and edges of rotors (rust proofing)

I installed my rears to match the direction of slots/drill pattern (starting from center of wheel arching down towards rear).

So far, love the rotors. Pads that came with it are ceramic (can buy with or without pads). Since ceramic, do better when heated up so initial bit is not optimal but is all there when heated up.

I've been thinking about the premium rotors from R1Concepts (with black hats and vents to prevent rust) and Hawk HPS pads. Anybody have any experience with these rotors?

great. Question solved. Thanks to all contributing.

I am going through compressor fail as we speak too.

From info I got, and some limited experience on other cars:

- this ac compressor is same for 4.5L engine (turbo or not) - 3.2L has different compressor

- both compressors for the cayenne do have a clutch that engages compressor when needed

- to do the job right yourself, get the right parts (ac compressor with clutch for your engine type, dryer which must be replaced if you ever brake the ac line circuit, install the parts, have the system flushed to ensure there is no metal/debris left in the lines if the compressor failed, ensure to check expansion valve to make sure not broken/replace if needed, replace the orings on lines going to the compressor, then pull vacuum on system to make sure there are no leaks, then put refrigerant into the system along with proper amount of oil for the compressor).

- would recommend checking serpentine belt and replacing if needed (good time while you are doing the ac stuff anyway down there). I bought mine for $50 for the car shipped.

- Drive away freezing your ballz off

I have the parts, now am contemplating whether to give the parts to shop for install/ready, or if I should install the parts and then let dealer do the flush and refill.

If they install parts they only warrant labor for 90 days. parts come with 1 yr warranty themselves.

If I do install, shop only warranties labor for 90 days.

Difference in price is if they do all, about 600 labor cost. If I do it all and they flush/refill, then 250. Already paid for refridgerant (they refilled then noticed compressor not engaging, then noticing busted clutch - had low pressure in it for a while and TX heat must have killed it).

Got my ac compressor with clutch (new-Denso), dryer, orings for $490 shipped total in case someone wonders.

Hmmmm, one though here though, should the pressure switch not deactivated the compressor?

cool. so the 'there is different compressor for 4.5 non turbo and another for 4.5turbo' is kind of bs.

I have this info from few sources now, 2 compressor types, one for 3.2 and another for 4.5 (all flavors). Thanks.

if the exhaust is loud then one of the reasons is that the sound absorbing material is not present, allowing free exhaust output and increased noise. You can go to 6speed and check out some pics of my SR1 exhaust before I put it up (may be pics on here too). Search for my name or leistung sr1.

Is the first and second pic of same exhaust? If yes then gemballa exhaust is what you have. The top pic looks like Leistung exhaust, the sr1.

I know.

Just trying to figure out an economical way to do this. Just came back from vacation and kids going away next week...life realities here.

I am fine with doing the parts replacement...easy enough, only thing to figure out what the likely hood would be of me not putting the lines in right, after all, when they recharge it, they will pull vacuum to make sure there is no leak again, before recharge. Would that not be indication of decent job installing compressor and dryer?

Need advice here.

How hard is it to replace the ac compressor and dryer on this car as DIY?

So I have been given the news, my hi side ac service port was leaking and over time reduced the charge to make the ac stop working. Removed cap, noticed it leaking slowly (audible). Went to the shop and had the valve replaced, but during inspection, they said that they noticed the clutch is burnet out on the compressor due to the low charge. Now, I am faced with repairs for this.

My choices are:

- indie shop (who says about 700 for ac comp, 80 for dryer, and about 600 for work including flush)

- dealer - not even thinking about it

- DIY - remove ac compressor, replace dryer, and then have indie shop flush and recharge system same day afterwards - is this a viable option?

When went to indie shop, they replaced service valve, pulled vacuum and stated there are no more leaks. then put in 134A into lines to appropriate amount. Then said the compressor failed to engage and mechanics told me they can see the melted clutch parts. Then they pulled the fluid out stating the low side service port was leaking slowly, but since ac is bad, it would need dryer replacement too anyways. So they have my fluid that I already paid for, but all I need is to have AC compressor replaced along with the dryer.

My question is though, once I replace compressor, would I be better off to give them the dryer to replace? or should I just replace dryer and then drive to them to service (flush, recharge)? What is in your opinion the way to go here?

A shop recently told me that there are 3 versions of AC compressor for Cayenne my year (05 CTT).

The 3.2L, the 4.5L and the 4.5L turbo.

However, when I called the dealer, they told me that there are only 2 versions of a/c compressor for this year: The 3.2L and the 4.5L, and the 4.5L went into any of the submodels of the car for that year.

Can someone help confirm what is true?

do you know if there is a special a/c compressor for the 4.5 Turbo engine, then another for the non turbo 4.5, and another for the 3.8L version?

A shop told me there is a turbo version of the compressor, but dealer told me there is only the 3.8L and 4.5L versions, with the 4.5L version fitting any of the models of the cayenne.

Would love to know real answer for this.

What I am referring to is this wiring shown in the pic...the wiring that goes from each bulb, into the connector marked in the pic, which in turn plugs into the harness connector on the car side, when you install the headlight. The wiring in the headlight is brittle and is flaking off due to heat I presume. Wanted to know if there is a replacement part for the wiring, or if I need to buy entire headlight.

My recommendations for you would be:

1. If you think you have spare $500 or so, go with a known indie shop to do this for you. They will charge you a lot of $$$ to do something that anyone who can turn a screwdriver can do easily, given some time.

2. If you would prefer to save yourself the money, go to step 3.

3. Get familiar with the parts involved in rotor/pad brake replacement (really, only have rotors, pads, sensors, several bolts/screws - less that half dozen for each wheel).

4. Get familiar with what tools you would need to do this job

• floor jack to lift each wheel as you do the job
• socket + wrench to undo wheels
• triple square socket/star tool to undo 2 screws on rear rotor - plus socket wrench to help in the process
• socket to undo pads hardware + calipers
• brake clean spray
• paper towels
• gloves to keep your hands a little cleaner when handling tires
• some needle nose pliers if needed, thin screwdriver (if doing rear rotors, to align some holes and to set rear brake)
• flash light

5. Set some time aside (1 day) to not rush and do each wheel on your time schedule - recommend doing in pairs if not have enough time to do all 4 together

6. Find DIY article on here for rotor/pad DIY

7. Find and buy replacement parts...for front, will likely cost you about $350 for rotors and pads - if you get ceramic they will not squeak, but will work better when heated up - initial bite not as good. Sensors will be another $25/pair - replace them as the old ones will be used and brittle even if not ground down....will spare you aggravation of taking car apart and then having to put it back to wait for new sensors to arrive.

8. Study parts you bought to make sure you know what needs to be replaced

9. Do the DIY! It is one of the easiest things one can do on any car, and gives you an insight into how it all works. You get to know the mechanics, understand how things need to work together for proper function, and will allow you to detect when the car is not performing the way it should, if something goes wrong in that part of the car. This is the part where you 'get in tune or get to feel the car'. Trust me, it is well worth knowing this.

After you do the DIY, your brakes will not squeal, and you will have some extra money to spend on something else, or to buy your wife/GF a present.

Let us know which way you will go, we will cheer you on to do this on your own if you need a confidence boost.

thought I would resurrect this post. I have an 08 CTT. Bought it almost two years ago with 18K miles on it (and the pads had been replaced) and now it has 35K miles. I mainly drive on surface streets. And they squeal like crazy when I apply pressure to stop. In fact, during slow driving, I actually can hear them lightly squeal. I was just in at my dealer recently for unrelated work and was told that I was going to be due to change front/rear rotors & pads. I had a few questions:

1) do CTT brakes squeal a lot regardless? (they are not ceramic) will a new brake job get rid of the squealing?

2) are there different pads and/or rotors that I should consider or are OEM fine?

3) I'm not a DIY type so I will need professional help. I understand that just the front rotors & pads will run about $500 in parts alone. Any good indie shops on the SF peninsula someone can recommend?

Does anyone know if there is a part to help replace the headlight connector inside the headlight after it is removed from the car?

It is the connector to which all the wires go from bulbs. Same connector that mates with the other half inside the car, when you slide the headlight back into place.

Been trying to see if there is a replacement part or if this is part of the entire headlight assembly (would be dumb though).

Have questions:

1. are the 'recirculating air valves' the diverter valves in the PDF?

2. Which items in the pics are the ones to check connections for? Trying to understand the layout here....apologies for noobness.

Should my boost pressure in cluster at WOT be pointing to .8bar in typical scenario?

Mine is pointing to .6 approx, then lowering to about .4 (I believe due to gearing/rpm range change).

Just checked some vids I have and it appears boost was at .8 at WOT, holding well into the acceleration cycle, whereas now, goes to .6 and lowers pretty soon to about .4.

Have cleared and monitored. Got error back again but it is P0299, under boost.

I would greatly appreciate if someone could take time to explain parts in question, where they are under hood, how connected and best way to test. Again, much appreciated.