ciaka

On my CTT, the HID lights, when turned on, start out by dipping and then gradually raising up to predescribed level.

Some time ago, I noticed that the passenger side light does not do that, It just turns on and stays put, while the driver side headlight still goes through its startup routine.

I want to solve this and wanted to see if anyone knows what the problem may be.  Thank you for help.

Waiting for parts.  Turns out the coils still under warranty so getting them exchanged.  Just got the oil pressure sensor.

Will try to replace this week if all arrives here.

I think I figured it all out.

2 separate issues here

- ignition coil(s) going bad

- oil pressure sensor intermittent (twice now in a month) not reading

All grounds are good, ran voltage drop tests at various components including alternator, no issues.  Good solid ground.

Once coil needs replacing.  Possibly up to 3.  Replaced all my plugs and coils 1.5 years ago (28k miles).  Ordered ZSE042 rev 14, but after they arrived, revision received was 06.

Only one of the coils was ZSE042 latest revision.  Was really surprised to see coil go bad after only 28k miles.  Old rev can help explain it.

There are 2 other coils that I removed and cleaned, that are running ok now, but have seen misfire on them.  Plugs were already replaced regardless.

So on the coil, so far so good.  Mad cannot drive my car though (well, can if I reset the codes each time, but they do come back every 60 miles or so).

Oil pressure sensor will be swapped asap.  Should be easy, and I do not want to run chance of this not working right.  

As to the electrical, I had a dealer look at the car about 2 weeks ago.  It was a routine 'hey can you scan and tell me buddy what you think needs doing'.  They said sure.  

The genius who 'looked' at it, left a rubber tube of some sort, inside bay.  Does not belong to car.  After couple weeks being there, the tube moved and just happened to relocate to where it was touching the manifold. Hence the smell.  Was strict coincidence for all these 3 things to come together.  At least I have resolution to this.  Still, have to wait for the coil, which is a bummer.

Will update again after swaps.  Thanks so much to all who helped.  You ever heard of 28k coils needing replace?  wow, talk about short lived.

there is a way, some experienced it but not on custom hood.    I cannot help but do search on hood will not open, hood not release, cannot open hood, and you will find the posts.  Look on few forums, I do not remember which ones had the info.

As additional info for upgrades, Porsches are made as individual cars, not line cars.  Means that every car travels through assembly with paperwork, that tells assembly folks what to put in.

Harnesses are customized to only attach options you chose.  So, many upgrades you choose limit the car to what is there at time of purchase, because afterwards, it would be cost prohibitive to add something.  Way of the Porsche, but thats the way we love it.

On my Cayenne turbo, the highest upgrade I could get was Bose.  Got it.

On my Panamera turbo, the highest upgrade I could get was Burmester.  Got it.

Between the two, Burmester is hands down superior, in all aspects, level, tone, dynamic range, etc.  Wow.  My kids are wowed with their friends, and that should say something, as today, kids are only impressed by social media BS.

UPDATE:

I took the battery itself to an auto parts store Oreillys.  They put a load tester on it.  Comes out as good.

Asked them what the voltage read.  They tested again and showed me - 12.59V.  WTF.

So I go home.  Originally used a small 20 dollar DMM.  Took out my good 400 bucks DMM.

Measure voltage across batt terminals.  Reads 12.6V.  

So the voltage on my batt is good, the batt is good too.

I am at a loss now.  I wont drive car until the oil sensor comes and I get a chance to crawl under car.  

Appears that the cluster was showing correct voltage.  No new errors were detected last time I scanned for them, today am.

Do you have advice on PD?  Never really did pd on electrical and not familiar with ground locations on PTT.  If you can help with info will be great.  Thank you in advance.

I appear to have 2 issues observed:

- oil pressure sensor 

- voltage regulation levels or grounding

Here is what happened and what I did so far:

Got the issues initially due to cylinder misfires. 
Replaced plugs in affected cylinder (7). 
Next day got similar but for cyl 5, 6. 
Replaced 5, 6 with new plugs (now total 3 swapped - 5, 6, 7).
Next day, driving home, get cylinder misfires.  Park in lot near autozone.  Scan codes, cyl 5, 6 misfires. 
Cleared all codes from car.
Try start car, now get error oil pressure fault, no oil pressure on cluster. 
Shut off car,  repeat again with same error.  On third time, car starts and oil pressure appears on cluster and shows ok at about 1.2bar. 
Turned off car, scanned codes, none, cleared anyway.
Now, car wont start (batt on cluster shows 11.1 v).  Try turning over maybe 5 times. 
On last try, try turn key, power appears to die (cluster goes blank, no turn over).  So I think batt bad. 
Disconnect, reconnect batt in trunk.  Nothing. 
Smelled insulation burn smell from engine (under hood, near driver side shock area).
Went to autozone.  Got sales guy get batt from store, with boost cables.
Go to car, connect new batt to boost terminals in car.  I go into cabin to turn key, while sales guy looking at hood.
I turn key, car starts, sales guy said he saw a small puff of grayish smoke in area of front driver shock mount where there are many wires.  Smell was there for short time but disappeared.
Batt volt on cluster was saying 12.4v or similar.  
Car now is running fine.  I drove home about 15 miles.  No issues or errors.
Connected multimeter to battery in trunk.  With car off but acc on, Shows 18.1V.  Expected 14.5V.  Cluster shows about 12.5V
Started car, batt shows across terminals 18.5V.  Cluster shows 12.6V
Stopped car, no more insulation smell.
Disconnected batt from car, checked voltage across terminals.  Shows 18.4V.  wow, should not be this high I am thinking.
Left disconnected overnight.  Now checked voltage across batt. shows 17.5v.  still too high.
So now, car in garage battery disconnected.  Oil pressure sensor ordered on way.
Need to get a good idea on how to pd the grounds, and check where voltage regulator is on this car to see if bad.
Anyone who can help thank you very much in advance.

So far, for oil pressure sensor, ordered replacement to swap.  Praying it is not the oil pump...lets not go there now.

You think ok to drive the car?  My worry is the 18v on 12V systems.

My ctt lately has been acting up.

When I drive it, all doors lock as requested by settings.

When I park and open front driver door, the trunk wont get unlocked as expected.  I have to go and open one of the rear doors, which will automatically unlock the trunk lid.

Also, the easy entry/drive system not acting right.  The seat wont slide into place when I start the car as expected.

Someone told me that there is a switch inside the driver door, which detects door open/close, and is the reason that the entry option plus trunk lid unlocking dont work.

They had that switch replaced in front door.  

I have no idea which switch they are talking about.  I wanted to find out what switch they are talking about, so I can get it swapped out.  The symptoms can easily be explained by the switch faulty (since open/close not detected, seat/trunk actions wont happen as programmed).

Thank you for help in locating the component.  I am sure I can get PN for it from parts catalog. Just need to locate what part it is I need to replace.

I am at 150k miles, all highly cared for, soft miles (lol).

Recently, I noticed that there is a noise coming from the front wheel area.  Namely, it looks like noise related to either the front driver axle, or the front steering knuckle bearing.

My question is, does anyone know a good way to isolate and test to determine which one it is?  Some test or check that will tell me it is the wheel bearing vs the axle.

The noise that I hear is an increased noise sounding like road noise, but I know it is noisier than before, substantially.  The noise gets more pronounced at above 60mph.

If I was to describe the noise more, it would be a low sounding hum like sound, which increases and is especially evident above 60.  It does appear to be coming from that front driver wheel area.

Hope this helps describing.  Help is greatly appreciated.

I believe the valve cover gasket kit will come with 2 valve cover gaskets, 2 spark plug gasket sets (one set for 4 plugs, total two gaskets for 8 plugs), plus two seals for camshaft adjuster caps.  Will cost about 100 bucks total for oem.

I have an 05 CTT, and it has the feature where once door opens, seat and steering wheel retract to make space.  Once driver climbs in and closes door, steering wheel and seat move back into desired pre-programmed position.

Well, the steering wheel moves just as always, but the seat does not move anymore.

I have to reach and press the memory button to move the seat manually into pre-programmed position, but it does not slide back when I open the door to exit car.

Does anyone know where the issue may lie, and where I can start troubleshooting?  Greatly appreciate help.  Thank you.

Good to hear resolved well.  Also glad you have a tool to pull codes is something goes south.  Take care and thanks for posting up wih resolution.

Each tire has abs sensor that plugs into the control arm.  One of them can go bad.  Also, if anyone replaced the hub bearing, and installed new bearing backqards. You would get bad abs too.  Just throwing this out in case work done on it..  check connections by unplugging and plugging after you spray with electronics cleaner on each wheel.

i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.  

Awesome.  I will prolly use safety wire or whatever is thin enough to make it go through.  Thanks a bunch fellas.

No need to spend money where there is no need to spend money.  Awesome place here.

I noticed both my washer nozzles in the CTT are starting to act up.  The spray coming out appears to look like it is not spraying evenly.  Wonder if they can get clogged up, and what the solution can be.  Do they need to be replaced?  Has anyone tried to fix successfully?  Have not really tried to remove and play with them yet.  Hope someone has experience with them here.
The washer nozzle part numbers is:  955 628 077 01
Thank you for any help.

how hard was it to get to the horns for replacement?  What needs to come out to get to them and swap?  Easy?  Hard?  Thanks.

CLICK HERE FOR LINK TO THE CATALOG ONLINE.

Choose car model, then year, then gen, click Display button.

Save file as PDF.  Open PDF file in Acrobat reader and you have access to all the part numbers for your car.

Enjoy.

Try to reset PCM, or pull battery cable and leave off for an hour or two.  Hope this helps.

I do not know for sure but I fear this will not be possible without serious tearing into upholstery, dash, trunk, to install necessary harness for these.

Porsches are all made per build sheet, not like typical line vehicles like Ford, Chevy, toyota.

Customer puts in all his selections, options, etc, into a build list.  That goes to the factory and as vehicle gets assembled, only items on the build list make it into the car.  So they do not have a universal harness that things plug or unplug from.  

For this audio, I do not think you will be able to do this without serious work, and expensive too.

I hope someone proves me wrong.

As an update, the large T (part of a water hose assembly), made of plastic, cracked right at the T junction, underneath the part of hose slid over the plastic and clamped.
There are two Ts on Cayenne Turbos, large and a small one. They are both made of hard plastic. This means, after 40 or 50k miles of replacement with new parts, you will be back in there, replacing yet again.
To remedy this, I ordered two aluminum Ts, meaning I will never have to worry about the Ts leaking again.
Adding to the crack, I also noticed that the large coolant pipe water hose (short and large rubber hose connecting the large coolant pipe with 2 clamps), was leaking at bottom as well. This was discovered after i replaced the Ts, and did a pressure test on coolant. The problem revealed itself right away.
I am waiting for some parts, as I am now replacing all seals on all coolant pipes. It turns out my Porsche dealer had these parts much cheaper than any other place I found it at online. So check dealer near you first. Parts will be here in 2 days.

Parts I ordered for the fix of broken Ts - 05 Cayenne Turbo:
- Water hose - PN 955 106 322 00, qty: 1 - water hose connecting to left most (passenger side) small cooling pipe with clamps
- Water hose - PN 955 106 323 50, qty: 1 - water hose with plastic Ts (large) - cut off metal clamps, put onto new aluminum Ts, use steel clamps
- Water hose - PN 948 106 035 51, qty: 1 - water hose with plastic Ts (small) - cut off metal clamps and put onto new aluminum T, use steel clamps
- Aluminum T (large) - 1" x 3/4" x 1" - Order Here
- Aluminum T (large) - 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" - Order Here
- Hose clamps large and small - Orileys or your favorite auto parts store

Other parts:
- Intake gasket - PN 948 110 145 01 - Qty: 2 (one for each bank)
- 2FT Flexible Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers - I would not attempt this without these pliers as some clamps are so deep and tight they cannot be reached with anything else - about 15 bucks off ebay

After discovering leaking cooling pipe seals, I ordered the following seals to replace:
- PN 999 707 517 41 - Qty: 4 - for small cooling pipes seals
- PN 999 707 518 41 - Qty: 2 - for small cooling pipes seals - the driver side pipe
- PN 999 707 370 41 - Qty: 4 - for large cooling pipe (2 seals for end going into thermostat and another 2 seals for adapter going into large pipe)
- PN 948 106 240 00 - Qty: 1 - short water hose joining large cooling pipe to water housing
I reused clamps for the short water hose, but if you want to buy one, PN is 999 512 389 01.
My local dealer happened to have all the seals for much cheaper than anywhere online I could find them, had most in stock, and others would arrive within 2 days.
So I hope to have this sucker back working this coming weekend.  It would be sweet, still very much enjoy driving this car.

Here are the pics of pipes ordered, on the metal Ts, and what my hand looked like after completing the swap. Now you should understand why you would need to get cable pliers.