ciaka

will greatly appreciate help with these questions.  Thank you in advance.

I really think it looks great.  Thinking of turbo version. Questions:

1.  Is 2010 a buggy year for Panamera in general (first model year afterall)?

2.  Can u give list of known issues to look for when buying used?  2010 or 2011.

3.  I would love sunroof, sport plus with launch control, heated and ac seats, burmeister, quad zone ac control.  What codes do each of these have to verify these on car?

4.  Any other option i did not list above that is awesome to have?

5.  Whats your biggest headache about the car?

6.  Are these easy to work on yourself?  

Really appreciate it.  Thanks.

On 12/18/2016 at 5:13 PM, bigbuzuki said:

Just to tempt you for Christmas Ciaka. 

 

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/porsche/porsche-2003-2008-cayenne-v8-aluminum-3-25-carbon-fiber-shaft-will-fit-all-v8-models

I saw this when you posted.  Looks really nice but really $$$ as well.  Trying to decide next steps, as i am very impressed with the panamera turbo and trying to convince wife i require to have it.  Sio getting this shaft would be counter productive.  Great find though. 

9 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Checked mine. Looks not good

You got some hair sticking out there too my friend.  I would check for cracks on that flexdisc.   Maybe time to get yours replaced before it affects the shaft. 

shafts gotta go out anyway to replace.  Ordered the flexdisc and inspected the bushing.  Looks on way out too.  Looks like i will replace the disc, bushing and shaft.  

Should arrive Mon/Tue.  

I replaced my cardan shaft few years ago.

Driving to work the other day, bang bang bang. Hear the all too familiar banging noise.

Barely got home that evening. Took some pics.
Has anyone had their flex disc torn? I have never heard of it. It was OEM (at least was claimed to be).

Questions:

1. With the flex disc gone, does this mean the shaft is in need of replacement too? I was hearing that banging sound from under my car seat area when driving (even slow speed, when accelerating).

2. What other hardware do I need (aside of drive shaft and flex disc) when doing the replacement? Do not recall anymore.


Thanks. Here are the damage pics of the flex disc, and the shape of the support bearing.

The shaft is moving up/down inside the bearing about a couple inches when I press hard with hand, but that's likely due to the bearing having rubber bushing.

Advice will be greatly appreciated since I am trying to get parts ordered before weekend if possible. THANK YOU.

Recently I noticed I was not able to open the rear glass with the door button, or with the remote, or even with the button under the wiper arm.

After some searching, I figured that it was the actuator inside the hatch door.

Replaced it, and now I noticed that I can open the glass with remote button, or with button under the wiper arm, however, I still cannot open the rear glass with the button on the driver door.

I made sure to put in all the connections needed (2 connectors from what I remember).  

Help will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you in advance.

I can almost bet its the upper shock mount bushings.

Had very similar issue until I did the replacement.  After that, no sound.

I wrote a DIY on here for this.  Look it up.  Not hard to do, just takes time.  If your car is a high mileage vehicle, I would think of replacing the upper control arms too.  they come out with the shock mount replacement, so you can do both at same time.

I just posted a DIY for the front airshock mount bushing and upper control arm replacement.  Hope it helps out.

Thank you Mr. GrandeOak for stealing a couple of your pics - after I was all done, realized forgot to take those ones.

Have fun.  Not hard to do, I would say 3 or 4 out of 10 on hard scale (10 being hardest).

CLICKIE

Just completed my shocks recently.  Took pics for a DIY, so others can have easier time.  I would say difficulty wise, out of 10 (being hardest), this job is about a 3.  Very easy, the only thing you have to do is decide to do it and not be intimidated.  

Once I have everything finished up, I will put the DIY up for all.

Anyone know if this would affect your alignment (if bushing is bad and driving)?

Thanks for the above pics (helped greatly with locating bolts that are 'hidden').

I think I will need to do this.  How much was the filter?  from where?  Should I assume to do both at same time?  While Im at it?

Thanks.

Funny thing is that I do not recall deleting any images from here.  They all appear to be missing from all my tutorials.  I have not been on here for a while but recently came back and noticed this.  If anyone else saw similar behavior, would be great to see how this can happen.  I would have to see where my pics are.

Great to hear. That is what I think I will do. Will get the oem mounts and will keep the other parts.

May I ask how long it took you to do? Trying to estimate time frame I will book to do this. Thank you.

Excellent. Glad to see it was useful. As to parts, I think I will get the bushings and will replace the oranges too.

When you disconnected the air line, did you replace the plastic tube that is located in the valve, and the sealing ring on valve? Now thinking about it, one may not need to remove valve meaning sealing ring won't be touched, but the plastic tube - did that get swapped? Last thing I want is a leak which could burn out the compressor for shocks.

Hope my write up was accurate for you too.

Thank you. After looking closer I see three different parts and I would like to find out if any of them have to be replaced if I remove the connector from the struts. The three parts are:

95535872002 - pressure valve for air strut

95535872200 - sealing ring for the valve

95535854100 - push on connector air tube

So if anyone can advise if these can be reused when servicing strut, that would be great. Thank you in advance.

Trying to find out if any of the related hardware is throw away after disconnecting lines from strut. Help will be much appreciated.

When removing the front struts, do I need to get any hardware that will be replaced when I do reinstall? For example, do I need to replace any hardware on the air Line which connects to the strut? Help really appreciated. Thank you.

Planning upper control arm replacement soon.

...you're not a bearer of anytHing bad at all. If you can give hints on where to start, overall process and potential pitfalls, I'll greatly appreciate. Maybe in the mean time someone will post up some diagrams where this can be isslustrated and all will be great. How long did it take you to take trim apart? Thank you again.

Finally getting time to look again. Anyone have info on removing the trim to get to the Ac unit and servo? Much appreciate help.

Sorry for late reply. I do not hear my pump while driving. It is possible that the pump is noisy because of being overworked (due to multiple leaks and trying to compensate). If things work you are set. If the pump goes off you will know and will also know what to replace next. Thank you.

If you find that you cannot or do not want to fix the issue by patching the hose(s), you can order the OEM part from multiple places to replace the entire section of hoses in that area.  

The entire 'brake booster vacuum hose' assembly will get you what is needed to replace cracked hoses in that area (passenger side under hood).

I ended up getting the part to replace the whole assembly (to make it 'proper' looking I guess - although the fix was holding fine).

The part number I ordered was:  955 355 579 51

This was for my 2005 Cayenne Turbo.  Purchased from ebay (OEM Porsche part) for total of $113 shipped.

Part was a perfect fit, replaced in a short time (I think I have DYI for this too somewhere - at least pics and instructions).

Thanks again.

I have found the exact same problem with mine.  I'm also going to fix it the same way, however, does anyone know the part number for this hose that is cracked?  Mine is exactly the same as in the pictures, where the vacuum hose comes down and plugs into the other one.

 

There are two part numbers, 95535557751 and 95535557951 both with the same description.  I'm going to have to go back under the hood there because with how jumbled it is in there, it's hard to picture which is which. 

I found the crack in my system and fixed it but the brake booster light is still on.  Does this error need to be cleared first?... and is the Duratech scan tool required to clear this error?... because I don't see the error display on my scan tool I picked up from Pep Boys.  

You would need to reset.  Likely would need Durametric tool to do this (as I am not sure Pep Boys would sell tools that can do this for Porsche cars).  Then you need to drive for a bit to make sure light does not return (I found a few hundred yards would do).

Good luck.  

My car has been throwIng error 2600 With message 'Temperature flap servo motor rear right'. It is a 4 zone climate car. Recently found out that if I have heat blow into the car, the rear center vents do not blow warm air out of them, even if I put whole system in mono mode (entire car vents blow same temp air out of them).

So I suspect there is a problem with a flap controlling how much warm air is getting into rear of the car.

Based on that, have some questions:

1. Is that temp controlling flap located at front of car or in center console facing back seats?

2. If front, how hard to get to?

3. If rear, how hard to get to?

4. Anyone know p/n & price for the component failing? Really interested in resolving after Christmas break.

My car is 05 CTT.

Appreciate help. Thanks.

I had a thread going on another place, discussing just the thing. Compiled list of items that I would need. However I managed to fix my pcm and didn't feel like spending money, so it all stayed. Sometimes I do think if it would still make sense to swap.

Anyway, here is the url...

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-955-957/308317-suggestions-aftermarket-replacement-pcm-dvd-radio-gps-05-ctt-w-bose-3.html