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KenJ

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Everything posted by KenJ

  1. KenJ
    33,000 miles.... no spark plug, coil pack work done yet. Just had new lightweight flywheel, spring clutch and IMS retrofit (Durametric confirmed no changes to cam timing) about 350 miles ago. Thanks for the lead and possible point to the cause - didn't think of that. I'll clear the codes and see if it comes back and brace for another bill (parts). thanks for the quick reply Loren... alot of people sure count on you. regards, kj
  2. KenJ
    Just got first CEL... P0300, P0301, P0302 for "random cylinder misfire", cylinder 1 misfire and cylinder 2 misfire. It happened right after start-up this morning. I went out and got an Actron reader and got these codes. Ques - how do I interpret this and is it an anomolly?... a glitch?... loose cam chain?... how should I be concerned? thanks, kj
  3. KenJ
    Thanks guys. I'll pass that along to someone who just bought a '97 and it came with 19" wheels. I'm no engineer, but I'm guessing it's related to the manner in which the tire/wheel combo stresses the components.... i.e. how far out from the wheel centers the forces are. Seems the SpecBoxster guys are pushing the envelope with 17" and sticky rubber - but no one has seemed to have had any trouble with it. thanks, kj
  4. KenJ
    Spent too much time trying to search and find..... 1) what is it that limits the size of wheels the '97s are supposed to use? 2) Is there a reference to a TSB or article that's shows what's needed to "upgrade" and use 18" or 19" wheels? thanks kj
  5. KenJ
    I started to laugh at this statement.... I know what you meant, but it doesn't quite come out that way. kj
  6. KenJ
    Didn't read the whole thread.... but, I have the Brey-Krause roll bar extension and the large pads installed/attached to it. Maybe that would help some of your concerns? kj
  7. KenJ
    I know it's not the same, but I feel a little like.... "Houston, we have a problem" thanks, kj
  8. KenJ
    Used separate battery to open hood. Found that the battery's plastic lid was cracked all over, but seems to have contained the damage to the area below. The battery was shattered. Pieces everywhere. I carefully pulled the battery out and started dumping baking soda on the areas that had collected the most acid - several pockets. The battery tray had contained a great deal and it foamed up with the soda for over 5 minutes. I can't tell if any damage to all the wiring in there. I ended up sprinkling the area with soda and found many areas that had droplets attached. Now - why? I have had a Porsche cigarette lighter maintainer for several years. I use it all the time. The battery was original and almost 6 years old. I tried getting a new one recently at Costco, but they didn't have any group 10s, so I thought I'd wait until they did. Just wondering if my maintainer isn't working properly and 'overcharged' the battery? Can that happen? - overcharge = explosion? thanks, kj
  9. KenJ
    tried left fender - no joy. tried tow hook area - nada. About ready to do the alternate battery proceedure. thanks, kj
  10. KenJ
    I tried finding the e-cable (removed all the right side covers), but don't see it. Have been unwilling to do jumper battery technique to open hood because of fear of further damage. Now, I'm ready to try it regardless. Any electrical techs here?... will I cause even more damage if I try to hook up alternate battery. I'm sure there's battery acid eating away the front trunk as I speak. thanks, kj
  11. KenJ
    I looked at the Pelican Parts 996T diagrams of the front suspension and noticed that the 996T has 'conical' springs and the GT2 has a coilover set-up. Ques - is it possible to get custom spring perches for the conical springs and be able to adjust ride height? thanks, kj
  12. KenJ
    After a warranty rear bearing job at a dealer, I ended up with a bad shudder while cruising along a 60-70mph. Turns out the mechanic didn't seat the right rear E Brake into the slots on the bottom of the shoes. They stuck out about 1/4" and burned up the E Brake shoes. kj
  13. KenJ
    Loren, Sorry, I got confused on one part of the optional clutch bleeding... "Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position." What is the normal position? I chose to end the pumping at the full up position, but did you mean in the down position because that's where the clutch pedal started the procedure? thanks, kj
  14. KenJ
    Thanks guys... Yeah, I've got some options to look into. I'm not optimistic about the seat back height however. If I decide to floor mount with no sliders, it might give me the rear wiggle room I need as the rear of the seat may strike the bulkhead and roll bar at the same time. thanks, kj
  15. KenJ
    I forgot to mention it's for a Boxster with built in rollbars. kj
  16. KenJ
    I just tried to install a Recaro SPG XL for widebodies (same dimensions as the Sparco Evo 2 I believe) and found it sits way too high to clear the rear rollbar while using the recaro side mounts and sliders. With the seat hitting the rollbar, I lose about 3" of rear travel - I absolutely need that. I'm considering cutting off about $200 worth of seat (top portion) to allow me to get the seat low enough and far enough back to actually enjoy the seat. I currently feel I'm sitting in a kart. Can some of you show some pictures of how your race seats fit up against the roll bar? I've considered a floor mount application (I think Brey Krause makes an application with a special rail), but there's no room to work with the rear bulkhead in the way - do I need to drill holes in the pan to floor mount the seat? thanks, kj (posted same message on 2 other boards)
  17. KenJ
    Looking for some insight into swapping out OEM upper strut spring plates for TRG and getting some camber. 1 - Is there enough room to work under the wheel well after clamping down springs? 2 - Any advice on care during change out - about the upper bearings and not having them popping out all over the garage floor? 3 - Anybody done this themselves? thanks for any tips before I surge ahead. kj
  18. KenJ
    I'm about to loosen the 4 control arm retaining bolts a the front of the diagonal control arm and I would like to know when I do so - will that inner assembly drop down on me? I have to remove the 4 bolts to swap out the old with a new bar, but I'm concerned that without 'apparent' support, it will drop down. Also, the Bentley book (pg 40-4) has a table that show torque settings. Am I reading it correctly to assume those bolts need 88 ft-lbs? Will it require a new alignment as a result of loosening the diagonal control arm supports to swap out the bar? thanks, kj
  19. KenJ
    What is the conventional wisdom for setting a 'starting point' for heavier sway bars? I'm considering taking small steps while improving handling on an '03 S for an AX only application. This 'may' be in connection with converting to PSS9s - but, I'd kind of like to see the impact of one change at a time. It has been said (Puhn's book) that the best bang for the buck is to go to a heavier set of sway bars. I'm only considering adjustable bars, but where should I shoot for in terms of heft? I don't remember what the S bars are (I'll put the gauge on them soon), but is the idea to keep them proportional to the original set up? i.e. if originals are 19mm/22mm, should I select in the range of 22mm/25mm and therefore stay in a similar relationship with what the engineers intended? Would this in essence give me the necessary roll resistance and with the adjustable features still allow fine tuning fore & aft? Also, what brands/types are most favored here? What are your experiences with various types of after market bars? Thanks, Ken J
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