Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

1999 996C4

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 1999 996C4

  1. Hello all.

    I did something wrong and maybe you know what.

    I just did a bunch of things with the trans out including replacing the clutch and updating the release lever and associated hardware. When I fired it up it made a nasty grinding sound which went away when I released the clutch. It returns whenever I push the pedal past about 1/2 way. The spring feedback on the pedal is different from before but not unnatural. My suspicion is that the release lever is not sitting on the ball properly (or not at all), but the other end seemed to be in the right place to accept the slave cyl pushrod so I thought all was well. I did read something about using tape to hold something in position but didn't do this and the Bentley manual doesn't mention it.

    Any suggestions? It is on axle stands on a 4 post lift in case that makes it possible to do something to narrow it down.


  2. Hello All

    I am in the middle of some preventative maintenance - put in the LNE bearing yesterday, got the oil separator out today, next is RMS & new clutch with updated release lever, etc.

    Anyway, when I ordered parts I thought I would try some Denso iridium plugs which Rock Auto lists as "one of our most popular parts", but I see now that the electrode configuration is completely different to the OEM plugs. They are the conventional type with a single ground electrode whereas the OEM ones have 4 ground electrodes. I guess they will probably work but I am reluctant to use them. Any experiences or comments anyone?

    PS the old IMS bearing was in perfect shape with grease seals on and full of oil at 60K miles

  3. Hello

    I am contemplating replacement of my IMS bearing (presumably double row but I'll check first). From some sources it appears that this can be done with the LNE kit without removal & disassembly. However on the Raby Engine Development website it says the following "If at this point it is determined that your IMS has a double-row bearing, you are out of luck, as these bearings are non-serviceable by the retro-fit kit. A complete disassembly is required to upgrade the double row IMS." Does anyone know which it is?

    There also seems to be something called IMS Solution - a retrofit using a pressure lubricated plain bearing, but I don't think its DIY. Anybody know more?

    Other options could be the Pelican kit or Casper Labs - but if they are inferior I don't want to go that way

    My plan is to replace the following:

    Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing & maybe the release lever

    IMS bearing



    Any comments/ recommendations on these points would be appreciated


    PS car has 60,000 mi

  4. I have read several posts on winter storage but nothing on the subject of fogging by spraying engine storage spray into the intake. I do this on several other engines every fall but as we all know, Porsches are different. My only concern so far is about contaminating the MAF sensor, but it could probably be removed during fogging.

    Anybody have experience or thoughts on this? I know some say to start the engine regularly rather than mothball it, but for me this is not practical.


  5. Response to logray

    Actually the battery didn't solve the original problem - my hunch is that it is an intermittent short on the radio wire but I'm going to study the durametric manual and see if there is a way I can isolate the problem with it.

    Thank you very much for the flashlight idea - I do have numbers so it will be a cheap fix - do you know if you can get LED's to replace the bulbs?

    Response to wvicary

    Nobody competent has inspected it but I took the cover off and it looks very clean - there is an unused connector (see attachment) - maybe for bun-warmers?




  6. I'm a new owner and seem to be going through the initiation rites (see "Nuisance Alarms"). When I bought the car it had working LED displays under the speedo, tach and fuel/ temp gauges. After disconnecting the battery to stop the alarms and later back feeding through the lighter socket to open the hood, the display under the speedo is blank but the one under the tach works (for speed only) and the clock works. I hope this one is just a matter of me not knowing how to reset due to not having the correct owners manual. Is there a trick or do I have a real problem?


  7. Update - I have been leaving it in the garage unlocked for the past week. On Thursday it wouldn't start due to a failed battery so I replaced it. Logray was right - some weird things happened when it was on it's last legs. So, new battery and I'm almost back where I was 2 weeks ago - I usually but not always get a horn beep when I lock and double flashing LED which indicates an active alarm input. Also 1 time today when this didn't happen the alarm went off 2 hrs later. The durametric didn't show anything new in the alarm category - just the yellow circle with an exclamation mark which means an "Information-only fault indicator".

    The other issue I now have is that the display at the bottom of the analog speedo is blank and I have no odometer. The digital speedo under the tach works and so does the clock to the right. This problem started when I disconnected the battery and had to backfeed through the lighter socket to open the hood (some days prior to the battery failure). I used the durametric to display all LED segments and non lit up under the speedo.

    So now I've got 2 issues - can't say I like this trend - any insights on either of them?

  8. Hello - me again

    I got my Durametric cable today and figured my troubles were over. Not so. Under Current Fault Codes in showed a yellow circle with an exclamation mark which means an "Information-only fault indicator". This tells me approximately nothing and attempting to erase it also does nothing. Any ideas about what to do next? Does anyone know if it is possible to access the Event Memory?

  9. thanks logray - I thought this would guarantee that the alarm would trigger (albeit quietly) due to the module detecting an open circuit . Is this not the case? If so would it only happen once and immediately? I don't know how long the alarm goes before shutting itself off - and I'm afraid to ask the neighbors.

    Hi Karl996

    If I understand correctly the module stores an event code whenever the alarm goes off which tells you which sensor tripped it, which is different from the fault codes. I would hope that the Durametric can read this and point you towards the culprit. This is what Loren was saying back in post #2

  10. to Karl996

    When you say no codes registered do you mean fault codes? If so I think this means that the control module is functioning correctly. However, whatever is triggering the alarm should be stored in the Event memory which stores the 10 most recent inputs to trigger the alarm. Can you retrieve this log with your Durametric software?

    re undervoltage theory: apparently this only triggers the alarm at 8.5 volts so if this is true the battery needs to be toast. However I may get a new battery anyway & put the old one in the boat

    BTW - did you know you can get a complete shop manual CD on ebay for cheap? Probably some copyright issues so don't take this as a recommendation

  11. Hello All

    What I seem to have is no siren, just a horn beside the main battery - it's a US spec car imported to Canada.

    Interestingly, the alarm has not gone off for a couple of days now and I'm beginning to think that the problem is simply a main battery which is not in such good condition and it's voltage is dropping below some threshold, particularly in the early (2AM) morning, and the alarm module triggers on undervoltage. I read something somewhere about this being possibility if the voltage goes below 12V or so. I have been driving more and the overnight temp's are rising which tend to keep voltage up. Crazy? maybe. When I get that durametric thing we'll find out.

    Ps some f! idiot put a small crease in the front bumper while I was parked today - no paint damage - any ideas on how to remove using heat or ?

  12. Thanks Karl

    Nice to know I'm not alone - but you're a bit too far away to get together for a beer.

    I'm surprised that the Durametric didn't find your problem right away - were there too many events to analyze?

    I did the lock-unlock manouvre last night and the alarm went off 4 or 5 hrs later! I thought this disarmed it but apparently not in my case. Could this be a clue?

    Also, when I double click to disarm the interior sensor it always beeps - is this an indication of something do you think?.

    The car came with a really good aftermarket stereo - 2 separate amps with 800W+ A bit of a waste because I prefer to listen to the engine. Are you thinking about the grounding or insulating of the security wire from the original?

    Good luck with your issue


  13. Thanks Richard - but no tilt sensor. I had already tried the double click and it beeped once and the alarm went off later. It seems like a deteriorating condition of some sort, as the intervals between alarms are getting shorter. Anyway I ordered the Durametric today so I should have an answer in a week or so - hopefully a cheap one.

    Meanwhile. I'm still open to suggestions

  14. Fyi - that didn't work and now, using the brute force and ignorance approach, I disconnected the battery. ​I am a bit perplexed by the time delay though - wouldn't a sensor/switch input trigger it immediately?

    I also found something interesting in another thread "Until you find the issue, lock the car then unlock the car and the car will automatically lock itself after 30sec or so as long as you do not open the door... that way you can have the car locked at work without the alarm going off.."

    I will test that theory tomorrow, not that it solves the problem

  15. Hi Loren et al

    Thanks for the welcome and the advice.

    Just got back from the cottage - left the key with the neighbor and he disarmed it 3 times - popularity on the street is waning quickly. Anyway, I rebooted by disconnecting & reconnecting the battery - fingers crossed. Meanwhile, I gather that most owners who are mechanically inclined have 1 of the diagnostic tools mentioned above and it seems the only affordable one is the first so I think I'll order it - any advice to the contrary?


    PS these are amazing cars, aren't they!

  16. Hi

    I'm a new owner of a 99 C4 and have been experiencing nuisance alarms. The car can be sitting in the driveway for 24 hrs plus when for no apparent reason the alarm goes off. Unlocking and re-locking shuts it off (of course). I usually get no beeps when locking, sometimes 1 but never 2. Any suggestions anyone? Is there any way to shut the alarm off?



  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.