Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

1999 996C4

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    24
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 1999 996C4

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Markham, ON, Canada
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C4
    1982 RX7
    1968 MGC
  • Future cars
    yes
  1. Hi - new questions for an old thread: is pn 996.613.217.10 EWC correct for a 99 ( ie. without OBC)? If you use the 996.613.219.10.EWC can the unused stalk be removed?
  2. Okay, although nobody seems to be interested in this, I'll put it to bed: It was the new style release lever being backwards and after another 4 or 5 hrs work all is well, FYI - the side with the rubber washer goes on the fulcrum side not the slave side. Experience is what you get just after you needed it.
  3. Hello again I have a new theory -The release lever seemed to only fit 1 way so I didn't dwell on it when assembling, but looking at the old one it appears that it slides on the throwout bearing enough that it could go in either way - and if memory serves, I put it in backwards. Any comments appreciated - and and can anyone shed some light on the tape issue?
  4. Hello all. I did something wrong and maybe you know what. I just did a bunch of things with the trans out including replacing the clutch and updating the release lever and associated hardware. When I fired it up it made a nasty grinding sound which went away when I released the clutch. It returns whenever I push the pedal past about 1/2 way. The spring feedback on the pedal is different from before but not unnatural. My suspicion is that the release lever is not sitting on the ball properly (or not at all), but the other end seemed to be in the right place to accept the slave cyl pushrod so I thought all was well. I did read something about using tape to hold something in position but didn't do this and the Bentley manual doesn't mention it. Any suggestions? It is on axle stands on a 4 post lift in case that makes it possible to do something to narrow it down. Thanks
  5. Thanks a lot JFP - that, combined with getting the new oil separator in, made my day.
  6. Hello All I am in the middle of some preventative maintenance - put in the LNE bearing yesterday, got the oil separator out today, next is RMS & new clutch with updated release lever, etc. Anyway, when I ordered parts I thought I would try some Denso iridium plugs which Rock Auto lists as "one of our most popular parts", but I see now that the electrode configuration is completely different to the OEM plugs. They are the conventional type with a single ground electrode whereas the OEM ones have 4 ground electrodes. I guess they will probably work but I am reluctant to use them. Any experiences or comments anyone? PS the old IMS bearing was in perfect shape with grease seals on and full of oil at 60K miles
  7. Hello I am contemplating replacement of my IMS bearing (presumably double row but I'll check first). From some sources it appears that this can be done with the LNE kit without removal & disassembly. However on the Raby Engine Development website it says the following "If at this point it is determined that your IMS has a double-row bearing, you are out of luck, as these bearings are non-serviceable by the retro-fit kit. A complete disassembly is required to upgrade the double row IMS." Does anyone know which it is? There also seems to be something called IMS Solution - a retrofit using a pressure lubricated plain bearing, but I don't think its DIY. Anybody know more? Other options could be the Pelican kit or Casper Labs - but if they are inferior I don't want to go that way My plan is to replace the following: Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing & maybe the release lever IMS bearing RMS AOS Any comments/ recommendations on these points would be appreciated Thanks PS car has 60,000 mi
  8. I have read several posts on winter storage but nothing on the subject of fogging by spraying engine storage spray into the intake. I do this on several other engines every fall but as we all know, Porsches are different. My only concern so far is about contaminating the MAF sensor, but it could probably be removed during fogging. Anybody have experience or thoughts on this? I know some say to start the engine regularly rather than mothball it, but for me this is not practical. Thanks
  9. Thanks Richard - at least I knew that the engine was in the back Ross
  10. Thanks guys This was a relatively easy one - have ordered LED replacements as per logray's link on "nuisance alarms" - think this case is closed (for now)
  11. Response to logray - I just ordered blue ones too response to wvicary - This is what was under the passenger (right) seat. I would check under the drivers seat except that right now I'm in Germany and the car is in Canada
  12. Response to logray Actually the battery didn't solve the original problem - my hunch is that it is an intermittent short on the radio wire but I'm going to study the durametric manual and see if there is a way I can isolate the problem with it. Thank you very much for the flashlight idea - I do have numbers so it will be a cheap fix - do you know if you can get LED's to replace the bulbs? Response to wvicary Nobody competent has inspected it but I took the cover off and it looks very clean - there is an unused connector (see attachment) - maybe for bun-warmers? Cheers! Ross
  13. I'm a new owner and seem to be going through the initiation rites (see "Nuisance Alarms"). When I bought the car it had working LED displays under the speedo, tach and fuel/ temp gauges. After disconnecting the battery to stop the alarms and later back feeding through the lighter socket to open the hood, the display under the speedo is blank but the one under the tach works (for speed only) and the clock works. I hope this one is just a matter of me not knowing how to reset due to not having the correct owners manual. Is there a trick or do I have a real problem? Ross
  14. Update - I have been leaving it in the garage unlocked for the past week. On Thursday it wouldn't start due to a failed battery so I replaced it. Logray was right - some weird things happened when it was on it's last legs. So, new battery and I'm almost back where I was 2 weeks ago - I usually but not always get a horn beep when I lock and double flashing LED which indicates an active alarm input. Also 1 time today when this didn't happen the alarm went off 2 hrs later. The durametric didn't show anything new in the alarm category - just the yellow circle with an exclamation mark which means an "Information-only fault indicator". The other issue I now have is that the display at the bottom of the analog speedo is blank and I have no odometer. The digital speedo under the tach works and so does the clock to the right. This problem started when I disconnected the battery and had to backfeed through the lighter socket to open the hood (some days prior to the battery failure). I used the durametric to display all LED segments and non lit up under the speedo. So now I've got 2 issues - can't say I like this trend - any insights on either of them?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.