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1999 996C4

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Everything posted by 1999 996C4

  1. Hi - new questions for an old thread: is pn 996.613.217.10 EWC correct for a 99 ( ie. without OBC)? If you use the 996.613.219.10.EWC can the unused stalk be removed?
  2. Okay, although nobody seems to be interested in this, I'll put it to bed: It was the new style release lever being backwards and after another 4 or 5 hrs work all is well, FYI - the side with the rubber washer goes on the fulcrum side not the slave side. Experience is what you get just after you needed it.
  3. Hello again I have a new theory -The release lever seemed to only fit 1 way so I didn't dwell on it when assembling, but looking at the old one it appears that it slides on the throwout bearing enough that it could go in either way - and if memory serves, I put it in backwards. Any comments appreciated - and and can anyone shed some light on the tape issue?
  4. Hello all. I did something wrong and maybe you know what. I just did a bunch of things with the trans out including replacing the clutch and updating the release lever and associated hardware. When I fired it up it made a nasty grinding sound which went away when I released the clutch. It returns whenever I push the pedal past about 1/2 way. The spring feedback on the pedal is different from before but not unnatural. My suspicion is that the release lever is not sitting on the ball properly (or not at all), but the other end seemed to be in the right place to accept the slave cyl pushrod so I thought all was well. I did read something about using tape to hold something in position but didn't do this and the Bentley manual doesn't mention it. Any suggestions? It is on axle stands on a 4 post lift in case that makes it possible to do something to narrow it down. Thanks
  5. Thanks a lot JFP - that, combined with getting the new oil separator in, made my day.
  6. Hello All I am in the middle of some preventative maintenance - put in the LNE bearing yesterday, got the oil separator out today, next is RMS & new clutch with updated release lever, etc. Anyway, when I ordered parts I thought I would try some Denso iridium plugs which Rock Auto lists as "one of our most popular parts", but I see now that the electrode configuration is completely different to the OEM plugs. They are the conventional type with a single ground electrode whereas the OEM ones have 4 ground electrodes. I guess they will probably work but I am reluctant to use them. Any experiences or comments anyone? PS the old IMS bearing was in perfect shape with grease seals on and full of oil at 60K miles
  7. Hello I am contemplating replacement of my IMS bearing (presumably double row but I'll check first). From some sources it appears that this can be done with the LNE kit without removal & disassembly. However on the Raby Engine Development website it says the following "If at this point it is determined that your IMS has a double-row bearing, you are out of luck, as these bearings are non-serviceable by the retro-fit kit. A complete disassembly is required to upgrade the double row IMS." Does anyone know which it is? There also seems to be something called IMS Solution - a retrofit using a pressure lubricated plain bearing, but I don't think its DIY. Anybody know more? Other options could be the Pelican kit or Casper Labs - but if they are inferior I don't want to go that way My plan is to replace the following: Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing & maybe the release lever IMS bearing RMS AOS Any comments/ recommendations on these points would be appreciated Thanks PS car has 60,000 mi
  8. I have read several posts on winter storage but nothing on the subject of fogging by spraying engine storage spray into the intake. I do this on several other engines every fall but as we all know, Porsches are different. My only concern so far is about contaminating the MAF sensor, but it could probably be removed during fogging. Anybody have experience or thoughts on this? I know some say to start the engine regularly rather than mothball it, but for me this is not practical. Thanks
  9. Thanks Richard - at least I knew that the engine was in the back Ross
  10. Thanks guys This was a relatively easy one - have ordered LED replacements as per logray's link on "nuisance alarms" - think this case is closed (for now)
  11. Response to logray - I just ordered blue ones too response to wvicary - This is what was under the passenger (right) seat. I would check under the drivers seat except that right now I'm in Germany and the car is in Canada
  12. Response to logray Actually the battery didn't solve the original problem - my hunch is that it is an intermittent short on the radio wire but I'm going to study the durametric manual and see if there is a way I can isolate the problem with it. Thank you very much for the flashlight idea - I do have numbers so it will be a cheap fix - do you know if you can get LED's to replace the bulbs? Response to wvicary Nobody competent has inspected it but I took the cover off and it looks very clean - there is an unused connector (see attachment) - maybe for bun-warmers? Cheers! Ross
  13. I'm a new owner and seem to be going through the initiation rites (see "Nuisance Alarms"). When I bought the car it had working LED displays under the speedo, tach and fuel/ temp gauges. After disconnecting the battery to stop the alarms and later back feeding through the lighter socket to open the hood, the display under the speedo is blank but the one under the tach works (for speed only) and the clock works. I hope this one is just a matter of me not knowing how to reset due to not having the correct owners manual. Is there a trick or do I have a real problem? Ross
  14. Update - I have been leaving it in the garage unlocked for the past week. On Thursday it wouldn't start due to a failed battery so I replaced it. Logray was right - some weird things happened when it was on it's last legs. So, new battery and I'm almost back where I was 2 weeks ago - I usually but not always get a horn beep when I lock and double flashing LED which indicates an active alarm input. Also 1 time today when this didn't happen the alarm went off 2 hrs later. The durametric didn't show anything new in the alarm category - just the yellow circle with an exclamation mark which means an "Information-only fault indicator". The other issue I now have is that the display at the bottom of the analog speedo is blank and I have no odometer. The digital speedo under the tach works and so does the clock to the right. This problem started when I disconnected the battery and had to backfeed through the lighter socket to open the hood (some days prior to the battery failure). I used the durametric to display all LED segments and non lit up under the speedo. So now I've got 2 issues - can't say I like this trend - any insights on either of them?
  15. Hello - me again I got my Durametric cable today and figured my troubles were over. Not so. Under Current Fault Codes in showed a yellow circle with an exclamation mark which means an "Information-only fault indicator". This tells me approximately nothing and attempting to erase it also does nothing. Any ideas about what to do next? Does anyone know if it is possible to access the Event Memory?
  16. thanks logray - I thought this would guarantee that the alarm would trigger (albeit quietly) due to the module detecting an open circuit . Is this not the case? If so would it only happen once and immediately? I don't know how long the alarm goes before shutting itself off - and I'm afraid to ask the neighbors. Hi Karl996 If I understand correctly the module stores an event code whenever the alarm goes off which tells you which sensor tripped it, which is different from the fault codes. I would hope that the Durametric can read this and point you towards the culprit. This is what Loren was saying back in post #2
  17. Update on alarms: I was just informed by the neighbor across the street that the alarm went off twice last night - apparently my wife and I are getting used to it but the neighbors not so much. Battery now disconnected for the night.
  18. to Karl996 When you say no codes registered do you mean fault codes? If so I think this means that the control module is functioning correctly. However, whatever is triggering the alarm should be stored in the Event memory which stores the 10 most recent inputs to trigger the alarm. Can you retrieve this log with your Durametric software? re undervoltage theory: apparently this only triggers the alarm at 8.5 volts so if this is true the battery needs to be toast. However I may get a new battery anyway & put the old one in the boat BTW - did you know you can get a complete shop manual CD on ebay for cheap? Probably some copyright issues so don't take this as a recommendation
  19. Hello All What I seem to have is no siren, just a horn beside the main battery - it's a US spec car imported to Canada. Interestingly, the alarm has not gone off for a couple of days now and I'm beginning to think that the problem is simply a main battery which is not in such good condition and it's voltage is dropping below some threshold, particularly in the early (2AM) morning, and the alarm module triggers on undervoltage. I read something somewhere about this being possibility if the voltage goes below 12V or so. I have been driving more and the overnight temp's are rising which tend to keep voltage up. Crazy? maybe. When I get that durametric thing we'll find out. Ps some f! idiot put a small crease in the front bumper while I was parked today - no paint damage - any ideas on how to remove using heat or ?
  20. Thanks Karl Nice to know I'm not alone - but you're a bit too far away to get together for a beer. I'm surprised that the Durametric didn't find your problem right away - were there too many events to analyze? I did the lock-unlock manouvre last night and the alarm went off 4 or 5 hrs later! I thought this disarmed it but apparently not in my case. Could this be a clue? Also, when I double click to disarm the interior sensor it always beeps - is this an indication of something do you think?. The car came with a really good aftermarket stereo - 2 separate amps with 800W+ A bit of a waste because I prefer to listen to the engine. Are you thinking about the grounding or insulating of the security wire from the original? Good luck with your issue Ross
  21. Thanks Richard - but no tilt sensor. I had already tried the double click and it beeped once and the alarm went off later. It seems like a deteriorating condition of some sort, as the intervals between alarms are getting shorter. Anyway I ordered the Durametric today so I should have an answer in a week or so - hopefully a cheap one. Meanwhile. I'm still open to suggestions
  22. Fyi - that didn't work and now, using the brute force and ignorance approach, I disconnected the battery. ​I am a bit perplexed by the time delay though - wouldn't a sensor/switch input trigger it immediately? I also found something interesting in another thread "Until you find the issue, lock the car then unlock the car and the car will automatically lock itself after 30sec or so as long as you do not open the door... that way you can have the car locked at work without the alarm going off.." I will test that theory tomorrow, not that it solves the problem
  23. Hi Loren et al Thanks for the welcome and the advice. Just got back from the cottage - left the key with the neighbor and he disarmed it 3 times - popularity on the street is waning quickly. Anyway, I rebooted by disconnecting & reconnecting the battery - fingers crossed. Meanwhile, I gather that most owners who are mechanically inclined have 1 of the diagnostic tools mentioned above and it seems the only affordable one is the first so I think I'll order it - any advice to the contrary? Ross PS these are amazing cars, aren't they!
  24. Hi I'm a new owner of a 99 C4 and have been experiencing nuisance alarms. The car can be sitting in the driveway for 24 hrs plus when for no apparent reason the alarm goes off. Unlocking and re-locking shuts it off (of course). I usually get no beeps when locking, sometimes 1 but never 2. Any suggestions anyone? Is there any way to shut the alarm off? Thanks Ross
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