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Mike Blaszczak

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Everything posted by Mike Blaszczak

  1. To answer my own question and help anyone else who is searching: the rack part number is stamped on the part and is clearly visible without removing it from the vehicle. I was finally able to get under the car. After removing the center cover, I could see the part number on the back of the unit (towards the rear of the car) and just to the right of the input shaft. It's on yjre side opposite that circled in the picture above. After scratching the funk off it with a wire brush, it was easy to identify the part actually installed on the car so I could order the right boots and clamps on the first try.
  2. At this point, I'm thinking my question wasn't clear enough. What's important to me is discovering which rack is in the car. If I buy parts based on what rack should be in the car, I'll get parts that should fit. What if they don't? If I buy parts based on the rack that actually is in the car, I'll get parts that will fit. I'm hoping to find a way to identify the rack that actually is in the car. In this project, I've already been burned by VIN lookups that resulted in purchasing the wrong parts. It would be great if I could get the right parts on the first try because doing so will save time and money. Maybe the rack has a part number cast into it, or other identifying stamps, that will let me know with certainty which parts to buy. Or maybe I can measure a certain diameter or length and know for sure which bellows and clamp set I need.
  3. Problems? What do you mean, specifically? The VIN is legit -- I've owned the car since new.
  4. Any advice on how to make that work? I start here, then enter my VIN in the search box (which says Part number(s), Keywords or VIN) and I'm told my VIN is not found -- as if it's searching the parts catalog for the literal string of my VIN. I was hoping there was a known spot where the part number was stamped into my existing rack, or some other physical attribute that would help me know which supporting parts to buy.
  5. I have my 1999 Carrera 4 Coupe. About 98000 miles. I'd like to rebuild the front suspension, including the inner and outer tie-rods. I'll need tie-rods and boots, plus the retaining rings and that sealing ring. Looks like there are a few different parts for the steering rack, which must be different sizes or shapes because the related parts are different. The Katalog I have shows 996 347 011 05, plus -06 and -07 for the rack. Looks like -06 and -07 require different external parts. How can I tell which steering rack I have? Is a part number on it in a visible spot or can I measure something to figure out which bellows, clamping ring, and sealing ring I need?
  6. I did it! \o/ I don't think my three-finger ball joint remover is wide enough. The pickle forks moved the rubber boot over the ball, off the shaft. That as enough to more carefully get the fingers around the shaft so that the top finger was centered (or more than centered) over the threaded end, and they poped out. Thank you, everyone, for believing in me!
  7. I've never driven them, but my understanding is that the B8's are like the stock M030 suspension. I also read that they're 0.75 inches lower than stock, but I can't find that reference anymore. 😐
  8. Hey everyone! I have a 1999 Carrera 4 Coupe with about 98000 miles on it. I'm rebuilding the suspension. Everything in the rear is off, except for the lower "coffin arm" control arm. I've removed the eccentric bolt, as well as the bolt on the ball-joint over the wheel carrier. But I can't figure out how to get the arm out of the wheel carrier. The ball joint tool I have doesn't fit; it feels like it's legs are too narrow to go over the boot side of the joint. I bought some pickle forks, and I can hammer them in over the boot side of the ball joint. At a certain point, though, they just stop. More hammering doesn't loosen the joint, nor does it advance the fork further into the joint. Is there a trick to this? A special tool?
  9. I just did this, and the instructions weren't quite right for me. I have a 1999 C4 Coupe with Xenon lights and washers so the reservoir is a bit different. Note that the headlight system and the windshield system have their own pump motors, and those pump motors are two different part numbers. They both draw from the same reservoir. Step #4 is important. I didn't expect so much fluid, so I had to work in a puddle the rest of the afternoon. The filler neck is also surprisingly low, so you'll be draining for a while before you can get to Step #5. Step #6 is the big difference, tho. The larger M288 reservoir extends forward past the center of the front wheel. There, it's held up by an M6 bolt, and by a plastic support arm that itself is held up by an M8 bolt. These two bolts must be removed, then the arm moved out of the way, to allow the reservoir to be removed. The larger reservoir is difficult to remove because the hoses for the headlight system constrain the movement of the reservoir. I pulled forward, then rotated "out". I had to remove the headlight hose from the headlight pump before I could get the pump completely out. These instructions were super helpful, but I did want to point out the differences in the M288 setup so that drivers with the headlight washers might get through the job with a surprise or two less 🙂
  10. A replacement switch arrived from Pelican and I had some time to get under the car yesterday. The existing switch was tightly installed and plugged-in. I replaced it with the new switch and the lights began working when I shifted into reverse. Thing is, the old switch tested fine: continuity when pressed, open when not pressed. I can only guess that the old switch was fine, but its plunger was not making physical contact with the selector rod inside the transmission.
  11. I know that the switch is on the transmission. That isn't my question. Great, thanks. If the shifting cable adjustment isn't a possible cause, I know to focus on the switch itself.
  12. Obviously! 🙂 The B5 fuse is for the reverse lights, but it's fine. I suppose it's possible that both reverse lights blew, but I don't think it's probable. Indeed, there's no switch on the shift console -- just the parking brake switch and the switch for the storage box being closed (and the windows, and the courtesy light in the ash tray). My concern is that I haven't adjusted the cables correctly and, in reverse, I'm in some sweet spot that engages reverse gear mechanically, but isn't far enough (or too far?) that the switch on the transmission housing engages. It that's possible, then I have to take apart the console and adjust the shifter cables again. If that's not possible, then I know I have to get the car in the air, take apart the belly pan, and fuss with the switch. Is it possible that the reverse gear engages, but the switch isn't activated due to the adjustment of the shift cables?
  13. Hi! I have a 1999 C4 coupe with a manual transmission. Earlier in the spring, I had the transmission repaired -- 2nd gear replaced and the pinion bearing replaced, too. Since then, I installed a short-shift kit myself. Today, I noticed that the back-up lights aren't illuminating. All the gears engage fine, including reverse, so I don't think there's an adjustment problem. I don't know if the lights were working or not before my short-shift installation. What are the likely causes for the lights not working? Switch wasn't reconnected after tranny work, or the switch is bad, I guess. But could my short-shift installation be causing the problem? Thanks!
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