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privateselling

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Everything posted by privateselling

  1. Hello Loren, Thanks very much for the prompt reply. I have some additional questions : 1. What do you think about the error code P0152 (on the snapshot you can clearly see that 02 sensor 2 remains at a steady voltage of 0,430mV)? 2. I suppose the special tool 9616 is a specific Porsche tool or is it a common tool available on the market (sort of break-out box ?) ? Price ? Available from ? 3. I suggest I do not have to bridge the relay for the oxygen sensor if I can make sure that I have 12V on pin 1 of the car wiring 02connector with "ignition ON" ? 4. Any idea why the MIL lamp never came on with these three fault codes in the ECU memory? As I already wrote in my first question the car runs well. Only when going to the yearly car inspection (mandatory by law in Belgium) I can hardly pass the emission test. Why is it not possible to send you the snapshots (exel-files) through this website. Do you have an email address where I can send it to your attention. Thanks again, Alfred snapshot_engine_1_29012007.PDF snapshot_engine_2_29012007.PDF
  2. Hello Loren, After having bought the Durametric interface I noticed that there are some trouble codes stored in the ECU of my car. Nevertheless the engine starts well, the car drives fine except for the drive off (now and then heavy clutch judder, especially during stop and go traffic) and fuel consumption is rather low. The CEL never lit !! According to the literature defect code P0152 may be caused by an airleak or a defective air mass meter. Do you think this is a plausible reason for this defectcode and why is it only on Bank 2 (cil.4-5-6)? Would it be helpful to replace the 02-sensor of Bank 2 only ? I will send you some snapshots by separate mail so that you can evaluate the 02-sensor readings. You will notice that the values of 02-sensor of Bank 2 remains steady. I think this is a 'replacement value' due to the non-proper working of the 02-sensor. I would highly appreciate your hints. (mind also that it is ROW-car and not a US-version). Thank you, Alfred ECU_defectcodes.PDF
  3. Hello Todd, Try this : go in your car but do not switch your ignition on, or even better don't bring your key in the ignition barrel. Push on the 'CD eject knob' of your radio for 5 sec. If nothing happens then you keep this eject button pressed and switch the radio on while still pressing the 'CD eject knob'. Doing this the first command of your radio will be to throw the CD out. If you do not press this knob then the radio will first 'read' the CD and when the CD is NOK for one or another reason then it will stay in the radio. If it doesn't work then repeat the whole thing after having disconnected and reconnected the battery. Success !! Alfred
  4. Hello Sinbad, I agree with you that you don't get any clear coat 'bottle' when buying a Guards Red touch-up paint. It is not even a mix of clear coat and color paint. The Guards Red is a solid one based red colored paint without any clear coat nor metallic parts. In Europe all car makes still ofer solid one based color paints. All other varieties are offered as an option and get the name 'metallic', so even a clear coat covered car is called 'metallic' in Europe. Maybe the situation in US is different and I assume that the misunderstanding was created that way. Regards, Alfred
  5. Hello guys, The topic still remains unclear to me. I understand what you (Boxs2000) mean but see my last paragraph in my former reply. My Boxster which is a 1999 model in genuine paint has no CLEAR coat at all. The top coat is red paint ! Am I missing something ??? Regards, Alfred
  6. Hello TP, I was very surprised to read that the Guards Red paint has a clear coat finishing. To my knowledge it is a solid color without clear coat . In Europe all paints with a clear coat finish are named 'metallic' and this is not so for Guards Red (as far as I know). On the other hand if you polish a Guards Red Boxster with a more or less aggressive polish then you will see red color coming off and no varnish. Would you please comment on this. Best Boxster regards, Alfred
  7. Hello, I would like to install a GENUINE Cruise Control in a '99 Boxster 2.5L. Does anyone has an overview of parts to be installed (parts description and part numbers ) and possibly also an installation description with photos and/or sketches? I thought having read somewhere that all mounting brackets are standard available and that it is just a matter of screwing the control unit and installing the control handle, but I am not sure about this ... I would appreciate your reactions. Regards, Alfred
  8. Hello, Can anyone confirm whether the replacement of the dual mass flywheel is covered by the worldwide genuine Porsche 2nd hand warranty (and for me especially in Europe ?) since I cannot find it cleary defined in the terms. I would appreciate any helpful comment. Regards to all, Alfred
  9. You might have guessed that I already replaced the battery today (and a good specimen indeed since I checked the voltage before installing it and it indicated a 3,2V where the 'old one' indicated 2,9 V). I think/hope the base code is still OK and still stored in the key I guess most probably the rolling code has gone. That's why I wonder if there might be any synchronisation method. Would appreciate further suggestions. Alfred
  10. I own a 1999 Boxster. For an unknown reason it is impossible to (un)lock the doors or the trunk with the remote control although it worked perfectly until some days ago. The battery is OK and when I push one of the buttons then the red signal light in the key holder starts flashing but nothing happens. My spare key works very well so I am pretty sure that the central door locking computer is OK . I think the first key is not longer recognized by the central door locking computer. 1. Is there any possibility to 'synchronize' the key with the central door locking computer without using the special Porsche tooling (PST2) and how can it be done ? Would appreciate your experiences / advice. Alfred
  11. Hey Scott, I noticed your service history is OK (hopefully at an official PORSCHE-dealership ??) and this is then a quite important detail ! In my opinion the defect you experienced is not driver related. Did you put an official claim (i.e. no verbal 'bla bla' but in writing) to the Porsche head office in England (in case the dealer might be reluctant to do it himself or if you have the impression he wants to send you home with a complicated technical story)? Mind that a dealer is most likely NOT interested in performing warranty jobs since he will then be paid by the car maker at 'cost price' and he has no benefit on the sale of parts required for the repair either... The dealer/garage told you they had a similar case on a car with lower mileage. This is a very weak comment from their side which in first place should make them react towards Porsche and not leave the case in your hands only ! The fact is that (you) the driver has no knobs nor cables to cause such a damage and an engine speed overrun would cause other damages. There is great chance that the problem might be caused by a 'hidden material or assembly failure'. Mind that if you convert to a 3.4L engine you risk to loose any commercial intervention by Porsche in case of future breakdowns, even on other parts of the car (e.g. gearbox, axles, ABS, etc.). Please keep us posted through the forum, I am very interested about the outcome. Good luck ! Alfred
  12. Hello, Do not understand what you really mean by '3rd undertray'. Would appreciate it to have a picture on the forum. Maybe this picture can be taken during the inspection in the workshop. A car that gets fire is the last thing one can have. Also interested to know the reaction of Porsche and if they are willing to pay for the damage ???Thank you in advance. Regards, Alfred
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