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It's been a while since I installed the kit, but here goes. Open the engine cover and remove the row of nuts holding the cover on the left side. Remove the hydraulic fittings from the two rams that support the spoiler. Remove the bolts holding the hydraulic resevoir. Pull out the resevoir from behind the engine lid cover. Follow the instructions in the kit and remove the insides of the two hydraulic rams. Pull the spoiler up and off the car. Clean up the shells and install the long treaded rods provided and adjust the spoiler to taste. Follow the instructions to alter the wiring to stop the "check spoiler" light from lighting on the dash. You have removed about 15 pounds of useless junk and made your car much less failure prone.
The spoiler on my 2003 coupe had developed a mind of its own. It would go up and down at random times. No apparent leaks, but the system wouldn't hold pressure. I really didn't want to spend the big bucks to replace Porsche's electro-hydraulic curiosity. I found this well thought out kit on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120810030712?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649. For $150 you get two threaded rods with other hardware that replaces the hydraulics in the rams that raise and lower the spoiler. Also included are well written instructions with photographs on how to do the job. The author even included his phone number, so you get help if you encounter a problem. If you are happy to have an immobile spoiler (you get to set the heigth) this is the way to go. :thumbup:
My 2003 turbo coupe just gave me the dreaded spoiler warning light and the spoiler is halfway up. I really don't won't to invest in new struts, pump, etc. as I don't care about the spoiler going up and down. Is there is kit of solid struts to replace the hydraulic ones? I like the look of the present spoiler, I just want it to be up all the time with no hassles. Loren?
Here's an odd one. My 2003 turbo coupe has been giving me random warnings. Two weeks ago the spoiler fault light came on, the spoiler worked just fine both automatically and by the switch. After a restart the light was gone. Yesterday I'm driving along and the oil pressure warning light comes on, the gauge shows 4.5 bars so no problem with the oil pressure. After a few minutes the red light goes out. Any idea what is going on?
I've been chasing rattles and noises inside my 2003 turbo coupe for years now. I've had the noise at the back of the headliner where the bar underneath is shifting around. That one was fixed by my mechanic, but I could hear a new noise now that the loud one was gone. The back of the headliner was rubbing against the roof and making a high pitch squeak. I could stop this by reaching back and pulling down on the back of the headliner. Solution: get a long piece of 1/4 inch vacuum line and push it under the edge of the back of the headliner. Silence! Now I can hear a noise at the left corner of the instrument cluster... Turbo noises are like the rent, they never quit! At least it's a NEW noise. :rolleyes:
Chuck, you may be right. The mechanic told me it was a freak thing, that the factory goofed when they built the pump. It would have been impossible to trace my problem to that O-ring without tearing the pump apart. I'm glad that I made the swap because I got rid of the problem. I will say that my clutch was a pain and the last turbo that I drove was a lot better. Still, it's done and I love the positive feel.
I have hated the soggy clutch linkage in my 2003 turbo since the day I first bought it. The clutch never engaged in the same place twice. It would cause me to bog the car at launch or engage on the floor and stall out. Evolution Motorsports has a kit to replace the accumulator and other assisted parts with GT2 parts. It's a simple hydraulic linkage with a master and slave cylinder. The assist at the power steering pump is removed and the system runs on DOT brake fluid not Pentosin. This is good news as Pentosin is flammable. When the mechanic took apart the power steering pump to remove the boost to the clutch, he found a folded over O ring which explains the changing pressure in the system. It's much better now, the clutch is stiffer, but it engages exactly in the same place each time. I can now drive the car in stop and go traffic! Highly recommended! :D
Beecher replied to rexbd's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Leatherique gets my vote. I did a color change from a black and silver interior to black and tan. You couldn't tell! It still looks good five years later. The leatherique folks were supportive and helpful.
The 03 TT gave me a good scare today. I was rolling to a stop, clutch in, when the dash lit up with "Oil pressure sensor failure." The oil gauge read 0. I blipped the throttle and the message went away and the gauge read normally. I had checked the oil an hour before and it was down one bar. I searched the forums and found some info over in the 996 forum, but I need to know where the oil pressure sender is located on a turbo and if I can replace it and/or check the wiring myself. The local dealer is an idiot and I really don't want to go there. Is the pressure sensor just a single sensor or does if have a separate idiot light switch? Also with the engine off and the key on, I see a bar and a half or oil pressure on the gauge, so something is wrong. Loren?
I had the same problem. I pulled the wheel well liner out and found a drip at the bottom hose. Believe it or not, I wiggled the hose and it never leaked again! I ordered a new hose, but never saw the need to put it on. The fitting has an O ring and I must have seated it. Try wiggling, it can't hurt!
Nothing to worry about, you got some water on the fan belt and the power steering pump wasn't turning over, the noise was the belt sliding around the pulley instead of turning it. The friction of the belt made heat which dried the belt and got the pump turning again.