Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

violaGT3

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    369
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by violaGT3

  1. Many thanks I thought the were but needed to confirm for someone.
  2. Well I crawled under there today and it appears there is a flexible grommet bound on the set up it comes out of the car right immediately above the linkages. Anyone have a blind idea what it could be I did not get a chance to take pics. but it is definately pressed against the linkages. the rubber grommet has a ribed cone sticking out about 2.5 inches in length.
  3. I also have a set of OEM Black with the embroidered Porsche Logo in them if you would like them. The dealer had them in my car which has full leather space gray interior and they are like new. I have since bought the matching ones for my car they would ship from KCKS in the original Porsche tequipment box. You can just PM me. I have no need for them so I would let them go for $50+shipping. Just another offer on the table.
  4. Ok I'll give it a shot, more than likely before I replace the $500 A/C clutch that just liquified!?! I am at a loss here I have had dodges I bought to build race cars out of and they'd have everything original with 150k+mls and no A/C problems is this a known issues with these is there anything else I should expect?
  5. Fill tank and add gas line anti-freeze, or rubbing alcohol. A pint should do and it'll let you know in 30 minutes of driving if that was the problem.
  6. I second this. Any plug is a questionable one and one wrong bump in the wrong spot could split that tire in 2 at that speed. Also let me know if you find a good deal on tires I do not like the road noise from the P-Zero's on my car. 295-30-19's
  7. I see, I saw it as chrome with a clear cover, silverish. . . not so bad. I agree on a light colored car it would blend easily. But I see it a little harder to blend on a 996 as the rear end as the taillights are not exactly bright atleast not the ones I have seen they have a light smoke tint to them. Aside Big chrome on the tips "Primo" Big chrome, TURBO, 911, badge etc. "Primo" Big chrome on the third brake light? "Auto Zoneish" Next step chrome arch guards and 6 NOS stickers! J/K I looked into a chrome one but my car is the violet metallic and it just stood out way too much. I would be in full consent if the rear lights were something close to the front end but the rear end contrast would be too great in the wrong spot on a darker car.
  8. Personally I would go with the smoked version for a few reasons, 1) 911's are not chrome intensive, 2) beings your car is black a chrome one would really stand out in general(and not in a good place), 3) that chrome one just looks cheesy in my opinion. Compare it with the taillights on the back of your car are they bright and shiney like the chrome light? As for the price not sure but I have a cheap little old $10k Fiat/Bertone X1/9 that is Momo intensive, Momo is not cheap I know, but their products are good quality. That being said ><$100 is not a bad price for a lighting upgrade on a 911 as long as you know it is a quality product not some look-a-like from China that'll dissentigrate after a month in the sun. = ) Good luck with the choice. Oh and all the 997's I've come across have had tinted 3rd brake lights. They Honestly are alot nicer looking too. One of the few highpoints I like about the 997's.
  9. I have followed up on this as well as gave a call to Powerhaus I am waiting to hear back from them. But first I'm gonna pick a remotely warm day and just go at the car. I have a breakdown CD I bought off ebay that covers alot so I am gonna attempt to check out the entire setup so I know for sure where the problem is and hopefully where it is not. Are there any recommendations for a good flushing agent to remove any sludge, grime or whatever a tranny might suffer from? I want to give it a good run with a flushing agent and then I am going to give this BG fluid a try. I tried to get ahold of the Shell transaxel but it was not working out. That is why I gave Royal Purple a try and dare I say that the issue only worsend, to say the least no signs of improvement were noticed. Thanks again and I'll bump the results after the change.
  10. I'll 2d that. Well I took that to the bank. Thanks guys, I put the order in through Sunset Imports I hope it is as simple as was the tensioner!
  11. Is there a recommended tranny flush? I just drove 200 miles and half way into it the tranny shifted flawlessly. I still want to check under the car but it has been too cold here to get under there just yet. But this is really urking me, I am finding out about having it repaired by a recommended shop but I would like to exhaust all possibilities prior to doing that. Besides I would rather have my car now and fix it later while I am overseas. (wouldn't we all like to be able to fix problems later.)
  12. I'm not sure I know something has bit the dust and man it stinks!!
  13. I would like to have an idea of what it is and the cost as the dealership here has not been straight forward about anything. I went to them with a key that lit up as it should that I had replaced the battery in but it would not lock or unlock the car by remote. I searched the forum and talked with some of folks here and found out the approx. cost for a new remote if it was indeed the problem. Well the next day I went to the dealership and talked with "the" Porsche service guy and he went to the car and tried a check sequence of sorts and said the the remote was bad. I asked him ok what would it take to get a new one. He said that if my key blade was reused they would get me a new remote head for $250 and it would be $60 to program it. I said wow I didn't think it cost that much according to the guys on Rennlist and he replied oh, well, yea you know come to think of it that does include the programming. I said well let me make some phone calls and I called Sunset Imports($108 shipped). The dealership is Aristocrat Motors in KCKS. They have charged me 2-3 times what the parts actually cost on small items and then I learned some of the actual prices searching the forums. I have done my best to avoid dealing with them at all.
  14. the belt is new and shows no sign of wear. This is a completely new thing, believe me if you could smell it you would never let it become a problem. I know the path you are thinkingabout and I have to say that it is not an issue with the belt itself the picture where you see the pulley you can see the debris coming out from the clutch area of the pulley. I just fitted a new belt and tensioner bearing on New Years, as it (tensioner bearing)started making noise on a road trip 500 miles and within that trip it fell off. Can anyone tell me where to find the warranty specs/ recall tsb's. This is a bit silly for 75kmls Here is a pic of the debris I am speaking of that is strewn about the bay.
  15. Yesterday on a 200 mile trip I smelled a burning smell in the car after stopping, went to the engine and found small splinter like shards splattered on some of the hoses. Checked everything over and found that it originated from the A/C pulley. The only thing that had changed is That I turned off the climate system. The A/C has not blown cold for sometime but there is no noise, etc. I planned to have the system charged this summer. Can someone shed some light here?
  16. Hmmm, I do not know what to say to that other than wow that's original. Just off the top of my head I'm trying to think if the bellhousing is greatly different between the tip and the manual. Just not sure on specefics. I couldn't swallow this story, granted i'm not a guru but I know my way around a car and losing both banks of lifters due to excess heat in the front of the engine with no other breakdown effects sound kind of out there to me? There are a few reasons that valves could be out of whack. Change in ignition timing for some reason, carbon build uparound the valves could be causing them to drag, in my old dodges( Granted not a Porsche) we would run a pint or two of 2 cycle engine oil in the fuel system to help clean it out and to help lube it as auto makers haven't yet come up with a way to lube the valve train like the original leaded engine did, same design less the leaded lubricants. I feel for you man I would be PO'd to a horrible degree if I was given this story.
  17. I am interested in this one as my car has a loud noise on first start of the day. It sounds like one individual lifter or something that produces a noise like that. It was written off as some kind of air pump? Not sure as it has been some time. But I do know that if the car starts and the idle jumps then I get the noise but if the idle does not jump then I do not get the noise. There is no proof or sign of the noise after the first start of the day. I was thinking it had to do with the oil draining out of the banks, but it seems kinda odd that the sound would be so clean like one individual lifter? I have not had any dummy lights, or tell tale signs of power loss or oil loss and I am running 0w-40 Mobile 1 as per Porsche specs. I am pretty sure that it had 10w-40 Mobile 1 prior to last oil change. This is in my 99' C2 6spd. with 75kmls. The noise I would describe a a brrrrrrat, tat, tat, tat, tat, tat, uuuuummm it changes with the idle. Hadn't thought of it before but I will try and record it tommorow and post it.
  18. Hi if you are getting RPM but no go then the problem is the clutch. 3rd, 4th, and 5th are the highest torque demand gears as they are wide ratio and you accelerate with them. I would call this issue worn disc or failing pressure plate. 100% either or. Good luck
  19. Hi, no, no, no, please do not put those new pads to that lip. I would recommend having the rotors surfaced or replaced if necessary if the lip hits the surface of the pad and it does not damage the pad/ chip of a chunk it will definately lower it's effective braking surface and it will lead to premature pad failure(besides a mere 10% more braking surface makes a big difference, reduced temp, less fade, all by working more effectively). I'm not a brake Guru but from my experience on and off the track, it is normal for one pad to wear at a greater rate than the other. If you look at where the pad wear sensor is mounted it will correspond with the pad that is worn greater. Hope this helps, Jim
  20. Thank you. nows why did that not come up when I googled> I had 4k articles and ebay sales but no website? Anyways many thanks!
  21. Hi much like the title says I need to get new replacement valve stems the seats were leaking and the shop I got them done at did not have them and I haven't had any luck finding out how to contact Champion to get them. I had the wheels checked at KC Trends as no one else would touch the wheels in KC They are Champion 3pc. forged 19x8/11" Thanks in advance
  22. I'll go recheck I know I can do it with the car running and I'm pretty sure I can with it off oh as a matter of fact, yes I know it shifts without issue. I'll get it jacked up shortly and check it out can you tell me which side the linkage is on? I have not really thought of checking that before but it makes sense. I just really been to busy with things going on and it is disheartening. I have mods and things that I haven't gotten to install. I am painting my family bath tonight after I just finished a joist up redo. of all the bathrooms in the house, it'll be nice to have the first one completed! Toilet downstairs with the sink and the shower upstairs!?! Anyways I'll be back in 15 minutes I have to use the factory jack so I can get the car high enough to get the floor jack under it? But She is glued to the road and looks Brutal!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.