violaGT3

Glad to read it was figured out.

Go neutral from second gear rolling. If the noise carries over then it is not the tranny. The differential should not be in the "tranny" it just has gears, rods and selectors in it. Then you need to run a series of tests to determine where the noise is coming from. Rev in neutral; accellerate quickly; accellerate slowly(in 1st gear to 6krpm and down) same in second, Does the noise vary with rpm's? does it vary with speed? I know the droning noise in my experience is from bearings but your idea of droning may be different than mine. Miles/maintenance could help folks here. For clarification, some people call everything including the bell housing the tranny. I refer to the tranny as the gearbox only.

Hi All! I am about to dig into the brakes and have the calipers PC'd. I am wanting to put a larger caliper on the rears (asthetics"why Not"). I know that the big reds have a rear caliper that is the size of the C2 front calipers. Can anyone tell me if they are the same caliper, ie. if the front C2 caliper will bolt to the rear hub on a C2. I ran into issues before with trying to mount the front big reds on my C2. I then learned of the major differences between a C4 and a C2 platform. Anyways I hope someone with part #'s or experience with this can help me out. I am going to have my calipers PC'd Red and I would really like to have them look about the same size. The fronts to me make the rears look anemic. MTIA! I can do a DIY on it to help others in the future if any would want me to. Direct for instance question: Would a Boxster S front caliper be the same as the front caliper on a C2? Would a Big Red rear caliper mate to a C2 rear hub? Would a C2 front caliper mate to the rear C2 hub?

Hi all, Just pulled my 99C2 out for the summer and well It is behaving oddly. As my foot gets near the brake pedal it seems as though the pedal is pulling away from my foot. Just about how magnets aligned resist one another. The brakes work, but I have noticed that they may even be staying engaged for a second every one in a while. The pads are 4k old, rotors are all good, fluid is tops. Also can someone tell me what color the brake fluid is supposed to be? TIA!

Hi, this is of course a ignorant of specifics response, but there is no lip on the peice in question so I would say, no there would not be anything attaching to it. I have dealt with alot of cars and it a hose attaches to something there is always a lip. It appears to be a 1 way breather, but I do not really know where it is on the motor so cannot advise to it's purpose.

Yea they are the 3pc. forged versions of the RGB5? I found out when trying to order valve stems that they were special. Turns out that they did not even sell them to civilians. Kudo's for me. I really love the look and well since they discontinued them around 10 years ago I figure I should take care of them. Thanks for your BlitzAntwort you are always there to lend a helping hand, I really appreciate it.

Hmm I would preffer to keep my Vintage Champions intact. I will look into it a little deeper before using them. Thanks Loren!

Hi All, I ordered a set of Chromed Bolts for my C2 and didn't think much about it at the time of ordering. I went to chacge them out and noticed that the factory bolts have seating washers built on to them. The new chrome ones are simply bolts with no seating washer. Is there some dire need for the seats, or is it merely a cut above in the lug bolt game. Many thanks for your thoughts.

Ouch sorry to hear about this one. Glad to hear you had the means to get it taken care of.

Well that's good to know my C2 does this from time to time, was told it was probably the inner tie rod joints. Thanks for posting this!

Well it is really great to hear of the many success stories out there. I am getting ready to try and drop my engine and tranny this winter for an update and some maintenance. I am at 82k now and no major issues still, just run into the dead battery from time to time if I do not drive her for a couple of weeks. Right now I am going to send off the tranny to have the 2nd gear pop out fixed, and the motor will get the accessories updated, pumps, mounts, A/C drier, plugs, and anything else I can think of as well as the Clutch etc. Good luck to you all and you San Fran remember drive it hard!

Hmm, are the nuts collared in or something? I would think as long as the splines equate, and the length is the same, then you could just plug and play. But thats just me thinking. I do miss the Grant days.

From what I have heard yes, again "from what I have heard". Narrow body wheels are interchangeable with box wheels. If they are some special set wait for a Gu to reply.

Hmm, good to know this is common. I thought it was peculiar that I ran into this issue, I was thinking maybe a slightly bent clutch pedal arm. . .

C4 or C4S? If so, read the section in your Owners Manual about refilling when the tank is very low. Really? . . . these things are just laden with tweeks.

It can be a few things. One. the neck design in the Porsche could be restrictive or have something slightly blocking it and cause the pump to release prematurely. (You may want to carefully (top off) the tank by watching the gun as you moderatly squeeze to slowly fill the tank.) New thought, if your pumps have the foreskin, dont put the nozzle all the way in the filler, allow for room to breathe. (Good Point Rattles) Two, there could be petroleum residue on the rheostat (level mechanism) in the tank preventing it from reading in the lower position. This could be from being stored for an extended period of time in the car's life, doesn't need to be enough to foul the car just enough to coat part of the rheostat, and seeings how full registers at the bottom of the rheostat, it is likely to be the issue. (my recommendation is to use a good grade system cleaner and drive it like you hate it, or love it?) Three, You have a stuck needle on your guage cluster. (Umm beat it like you hate it, or love it?) Four, you have some kind of crazy wiring connection issue causing it to misread. (IMO this is a total longshot and should not be considered until you get to the point of replacement, then just check the connections) HTH G/L chilly yellow

I lost two yellow top Optima's to the 911 and I have been using a Advance Auto Gold series battery for two years now, had to have it replaced once as the 911 has has some kind of amp draw in it that kills batteries if you do not drive it. When I had to have the Optima replaced it took the 2.5 months to mail me a replacement, twas not a happy camper. So unless you plan on doubling your HP and hitting the drag, or generally off roading just stick to your closest autoparts house they warranty their batteries and it's easy to get issues handled. HTH

Hi I have had 295-30-19's on both a 00' GT3, and a 99' C2 GT3 clone, I would have to say it all comes down to the rims. The rims on the C2 are Race Spec. 3pc. wheels from Champion Motorsports. I am not sure of the offset on them. But I can tell you that both of the cars are tucked in the rear. no rubbing issues, allthough I believe the quarters are rolled.

After reading this last little bit I would say check your fuel pressure level. O.k. I'll add a reason being. when cold, generally systems enrich the mixture for warm up procedure, once warm up achieved the mix goes normal. well if there is not enough fuel you get symptoms like that of an air leak, (surging) and with complete fuel pump failure horridly sluggish performance especially in the torque bands is experienced after about 3-5 minutes of running. This in the my older days was known as a cold start injector. HTH

Depending on how picky you are about keeping you engine spotless you can use WD40 to help identify mysterious leaks. Typically I found that leaks are most prevalent in pvc joints but, I have not dealt with them on my Porsches yet. Basically just follow the intake path and tubes leading away, spraying each and when you find that the idle surges spray there again and you've found your spot. This is not the ultimate fix all end all but it is a technique use when needing to check an area out of reach and in times of desparation. P.S. WD40 will not harm your engine or components and can be simply spray washed off. WARNING: Do Not Spray Directly At The Headders. There is a chance that they could ignite the WD40, Not a great chance but if not taken into consideration then a stupid mistake could make a mess and have your friends asking you why you have no hair on your arm?

Well this is a neat little cause and effect thread. I am going to troubleshoot a little clunk noticed from around the front passenger wheel (I believe) noticed when backing out of my drive. I've checked everything for looseness no such luck. I was thinking outer ball, but maybe this is the culprit. But I don't too often get to drive and I would notice it just pulling out of the drive, or so I think. . . I'll definately look into this.

That would be the one. Thanks again Loren, you have a gift for making things a little nicer. God Bless. Jeff @ Sunset has it on the way! Many thanks.

Hi all, I am trying to cover the little missing / lost pieces from the work done and it seems I am missing a body plug from within the battery compartment cowl. it sits in the wall behind the battery, it is off to the right a little from the battery. It is roughly 3" in diameter. So if Loren happens to be online and wouldn't mind spittin it's part number off the top of his head, or if someone has access to it, I would really appreciate it. I talked with sunset imports and they had no luck looking it up. Thanks 99' C2 6spd.

Well you have to decide first what you need from the lot. Myself I would lean towards duraflex or eurathane as they flex the most and my car is very low and in flood states (KS) all the roads have a channeling effect. But they have their drawbacks as PJ mentioned for the most part they cannot be repaired as they flex more than the repair and will break again. and well ABS should never be used IMO tough yea, heavy yea, warps in season change and heat Yea. Fiber again as mentioned by PJ unless bought from a reputable manufacturer usually envolves 3-6 hours fit and prep time, but it is solid state, it'll go 20 years, no prob. but in time 20+yrs. it will spider web a little under the paint, now that is an easy, easy, fix at the time of repaint and it does not do it so much as in the past. Lastly it can be repaired, to as good as new in most cases, but sometimes the repair time make it a new case as it would cost more to pay for the labor. But all that being said Look at the TOP ie $$$$$ manufacturers and see what materials they use. Eurathanes and the other plastic variations were put into place as a money saver for mass production, a good mold and gel coat and your ready to paint, for track purpouses fabulous, turn and burn. They have improved the durability and warping with variations like FRP which takes a good plastic clean finish and gives it light rigidity by coating the back in fiber. Also with molds you have lines, even fiber molds, but with the plastic ones you have discrete warps around them and it is costly to have them smooth/erased, fiber it is 1,2,3. Now with all this knowledge forsaken just go buy something that looks really cool to you! HTH

Hi while turning my baby in to have the clutch replaced I learned that Steven of Imagine Auto in Lenexa KS is selling his amazing Project car. Anyone looking for a rediculous Turbo 997 should give him a call. It has been featured in a couple of magazine articles as are all their projects. Just FYi for you guys. Imagine Auto 913-322-8562 For pics just check their Web below it is the one featured in European car Mag. http://www.imagineauto.com/index3.htm Edited the name of the Owner, I worked with Karl in the past so the name stuck. oops.