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Welcome :) ... I wish you the best of luck with your Porsche..... you´ll have plenty of fun filled DIY hours with these cars ..... :)
.... is there a coolant smell coming from the engine bay ? Could be coolant fluid from busted plastic coolant pipes/T´s --- the coolant fluid is also red (and ´oily´ ) .... That or transmission seal....
The Durametric readings look good. The cam deviation stays constant at -1 ca and +1 ca - throughout all rpm´s. Actual cam values are properly synchronized between banks at all rpm´s - 0 deg at idle up to 30 deg. So, there are no apparent problems there. The interior of the engine looks VERY clean - the oil change service book shows an irregular but acceptable oil service interval. When i purchased the car I initially did an oil change with M1 0-w40 and again 5k km later - to Motul 300v 5-w40. My next change will be to Mobil-1 5-w50 (Rally formula). I´ve also used Liqui-Moly Ceratec and that did quiet the engine down considerably. The thing is, I am far from being sure the rough idle and knock has anything to do with the chain - but in my mind it was the only diagnosis that fit both symptoms. Probably the best action would be to take the valve covers off and run a borescope down the chain housing. Maybe do the tensioner while at it. Probably the knock and idle issues are unrelated - could be the poor thing just needs thicker oil and a new fuel pump :)
I haven´t checked the fuel pressure....if there was a problem with a fuel pump, wouldn´t it be apparent at higher rpm´s also ?
Royxaxa - I read your description regarding the timing chain swap - and I was partially basing my assumptions on your writeup regarding the stretched chain and broken guides. I also spoke to the local Porsche workshop manager - who said the tapping noise was unusually heavy, and he agreed that the engine idle was indicating timing problems. This engine is now at 150k km - and I was leaning towards the chain as the culprit. The strange thing is that the bad idle comes and goes - randomly. There are no preset conditions that trigger the bad idle - but the tapping noise ONLY appears with the engine at full operating temp. Maybe I need 5w-50 oil for this engine for the tappets at operating oil temp.? I´ve recently changed the oil/filter (Motul 300v 5w-40) - waterpump/thermostat/cooling pipes - PCV is new and I´m about to change the diverter valves. There are no apparent vacuum leaks and the engine seems to run fine otherwise. What I haven´t ruled out is MAF´s - pre-cat Oxygen sensors - Coils. But there are no misfires or fuel mixture anomalies according to the durametric readout. The only other issue is that the engine ´chokes/hesitates´ on quick throttle from idle.
I've been having issues with rough idling and a slight 'knock' sound ( at full operating temp only )in my 9pa Cayenne Turbo.I've checked the cylinders (boroscoped) for damage and compression tested- and there is no cylinder scoring or leakage. Spark plugs have been replaced - and coils look fine (03 rev coils). No fault codes in engine module.I'm currently leaning towards a timing chain issue - whereas the knock sound is a result of a broken timing chain guide and/or stretched chain.Using durametric the cam deviation is reading a steady +1 ca / -1 ca. Actual cam timing is relatively synchronized between banks at all rpm. Can anyone give me pointers as to what I should be logging with Durametric - so that I can post the log here for help in diagnosing this issue. ?
parabolic started following 2003 Cayenne Turbo - Timing issues - Durametric diagnostics
Solved this issue.... after tearing the cooling system apart , I found the new replacement 3pcs aluminum coolant pipes had a manufacturing defect.... and the pipe feeding the heater core was physically blocked. Sure...... I should have blown into the pipes, or somehow given them a better inspection before installing.... but somehow I ´assumed´ these parts were quality controlled before sale... Note to future installers; check the pipe throughput before installing... :rolleyes:
I just did a complete fault code readout with Durametric and I´m getting a Gateway fault code: 1320 Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal communication etc..... Is there HVAC controlled valve that controls the coolant flow to the heater core ? Are there any cooling system schematics for the Cayenne that could help diagnose the issue ? Edit: Just ordered a new water pump and a Uview Airlift II - It costs me more to have the car sitting around for a month then the price of the parts. I'll post an update when I know more.
Never underestimate the power of sun visor flipping.... B) Electric pump reinstalled and primed - still no heat in cabin. I´ve yet to rule out the belt driven water pump. This car has 150k km on it - and to my knowledge, the water pump has never been replaced. I pulled the upper vent line from the coolant reservoir with the engine running - and there is significant coolant coming out when idling - even more when reving. So the question is; how much is enough ? What other procedures would you recommend in troubleshooting the belt driven water pump?
I pulled the additional (electric) water pump today - and it´s working 100%. This type of pump is very susceptible to cavitation if there is not enough pressure on both ends. But this pump is definitely NOT the problem. Before pulling the pump, I ran the engine to full operating temperature - but to my surprise the lines to the electric pump did not heat up at all. Tomorrow I´ll try to prime the heater core by disconnecting the re-tour hose and see if I can get the pump to recirculate through the lines. Regarding the main belt driven pump; I´m pretty sure it´s functioning as it should - since the radiator hoses are well pressurized while the car is running. And there is throughput in the reservoir while reving the engine. I´ve talked to several people who are all telling me the same thing - rev the engine in an incline - top up as needed - take a spirited drive - top up. But it´s just my luck that it doesn´t work for me :)
Ok, next step is to put gradual pressure on the coolant expansion tank, so I have a few questions: 1. Would compressor air suffice - or should I push coolant in there ? 2. What would be the max pressure I should put on the system ? 3. Engine/electrical pump running or not ?
If the system doesn´t purge by itself over the next few days - then I´ll remove the pump and test it. Maybe I´ll also try to prime the radiator core with coolant. Judging by the diagrams I can´t see any valves between the auxillary pump and the radiator core - so there shouldn´t be any problems putting external pressure (15-20psi) into the auxiliary water pump junction ? Water pump in question # 955 106 561 01
The pump does run - I´ve started it and can hear it run by actuating the "Rest" feature - and also via Durametric. Since the coolant sensor isn´t at the top point of the cooling system i´m a little baffled by it´s fluctuation. Maybe I could remove the sensor itself to purge the air from that manifold? Or, instead of chasing my own tail - I could have the coolant refilled by a shop equipped with a vacuum filling system. The techs I´ve spoken too have all said they just fill the reservoir and then warm the engine - wait till cold - then add coolant....repeat as necessary. Most were very surprised that the system hadn´t purged the air by now.....since i´ve run the engine both stationary and driven the car for a few runs.
2003 Cayenne Turbo - Cold climate package It all started out with the classic failure of the plastic cooling pipes. My wife was driving the car when a severe coolant leak emerged - and after the failure she "had to" drive the car a few more minutes before stopping. What happened in those minutes will never be entirely clear ..... so be it. When I arrived at the scene to access the damage I switched on the car (without starting) to hear a DRY pumping noise - and immense rattling coming from the driver side fender. Clearly an electrical (additional coolant pump) running dry, so I just switched off the car and had it towed. 10 days later I finished the coolant pipe upgrade/repair and refilled the cooling system without using the vacuum filling procedure that is recommended by the workshop manual. Result: No heat coming from the cabin heater. So I suspected some air blockage in the system. But after following the workshop manual bleeding procedure - and other maneuvers, s.a. lifting the front of car while reving engine/removing driver side radiator hose etc/running pressure through the system etc = no improvement. Also, the engine heat gauge is overly hot when idling - but returns to normal under higher rpms. So, is it possible the the additional water pump has failed ? Is this pump feeding the heater core and the heat sensor cooling manifold ? Is there other likely cause for this failure ? All and any help would be appreciated :)