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geoff

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Everything posted by geoff

  1. '01 986 ~110K miles, all original O2 sensors. Check engine light periodically comes on, and then after driving a while turns off. Codes are P0139 and P1117. Is this indicative of anything other than an aging / failing O2 sensor? This used to happen every couple of years, but now appears every few months. Car runs fine except for the light on the dash
  2. My problem as originally posted did not show anything pending or actual as far as fault codes on the Porsche dealer's Porsche diagnostic computer tool. They told me to drive it a bunch and the readiness would set itself after a few hundred miles or less. Many, many hundreds of miles later, I resorted to the half throttle immediately after starting and that set the secondary air readiness finally. It's likely some sensor component that still works on these 20+ year old 986s enough to drive around without throwing an error, but is still out of spec
  3. Unfortunately, I live in CA, so readiness not being set means the smog test can't be run. After around 2K miles over the past almost half a year since getting smogged, no check engine light. I'm going to hold tight and see what codes look like in about a year and a half the next time I have to go through the whole smog check experience again
  4. No kidding! But over 750 miles seems a bit excessive. I was going to take my car back to the dealer and leave it so the head tech could do a cold start in the morning and see what's going on. When I started to go out there this afternoon, I tried revving the engine to 2800 RPM for 2 1/2 minutes with the defroster on, instead of letting it idle to start the drive cycle. Then plugged in my cheapie OBD tester, and lo and behold, all readiness indicators were set, including the secondary air injection. I didn't go out and buy a lottery ticket, but I stopped by my usual smog check place, and all readiness indicators were still set, no CEL showing, and my car passed the smog test, so I'm good for 2 more years. I went by the dealer afterwards, my service writer said there's nothing for them to do, then I chatted with my mechanic for a while. He hadn't heard about this, but figured at 2800 RPM there's a lot more air flowing through the system, which gets the onboard computers to recognize readiness.
  5. There were several posts on the topic, but after reading through all of them, I don't think I ever found a definitive solution as to fixing the secondary air readiness. About a month ago, I started driving to get my '01 986 smogged and got a CEL. Code reader showed it as a vario cam bank 1 problem, and after some diagnostics, it ended up being the actuator (which also includes a new solenoid), which my mechanic at the dealer replaced. My car drove better than ever, but after driving around for several days, when I went to get it smogged two readiness indicators weren't set. I tracked down the drive cycle description, followed that many times, and every time I checked the secondary air readiness still wasn't set. I made a trip back to the dealer today, head mechanic confirmed the secondary air system is functional by turning it on with Porsche tester, no fault codes showing, but still couldn't get secondary air readiness to set. He disconnected the battery, hoping clearing everything would solve the problem, so I drove around doing some errands, and by the time I got home everything was good to go except secondary air readiness. So I still can't take it in to get smogged. I'm going to drop it back off at the dealer later in the week so they can do a cold start in the morning. Any suggestions as to what is known to solve the problem since all the prior posts on this subject?
  6. The HVAC blower in my '08 Cayenne started making a loud noise and vibrating, which seems like a common problem as these vehicles age. The OEM Porsche part 955-572-342-02 shows a retail price of $750.27, and even the online Porsche dealers selling parts at a discount only took off 10%. From watching a couple of YouTube videos and searching for aftermarket parts, it looked like the Cayenne, Touareg and Q7 all share the same HVAC guts. Knockoff replacements are available for under $100, but looked a little sketchy and are made in China. One video showed the replacement being a VW part, so I took a chance and ordered the VW part 7L0-820-021-Q, which retails for about $480, but available online from VW dealers for 25% off. The VW dealer a block from my Porsche dealer got the part in a day, and with no shipping, I still saved about 50% over buying the Porsche part. When the mechanic pulled the old blower out, the VW part stamping on it exactly matched the new one I just picked up. With all the shared parts between the Cayenne and Touareg it definitely pays to do a little research if you want to save on "genuine" Porsche parts
  7. Thanks for confirming. And thanks for clarifying AGM and gel are different technologies. I googled the difference between the two to get smarter on the technologies, and definitely meant AGM
  8. It's time to replace the starter battery in my 2008 Cayenne S. Porsche calls for p/n 9A7-915-105-C, which I think has been superseded by 999-611-110-20, at least according to the dealer parts guy. It's a 110 amp wet battery. We measured batteries in parts today, and the newer Cayenne AGM battery, 958-611-105-21 looks to be the same size. It's a 105 amp gel battery. Can I just install the newer model AGM battery in my '08 S and the terminals will be in the right place? I know specs wise it should work
  9. Sorry, I don't look on here very often. Not sticky, but the black was coming off on the temp and fan control on my 2005 997. I pulled the HVAC control and sent it to Sticky No More - Exotic car interior refinishing services STICKYNOMORE.COM Industry-leading plastic interior refinishing for exotic cars to make them Sticky No More and they did an excellent job, reasonably priced and fast turn around
  10. To answer my own post - a while after posting, I found a local transmission shop that had the smarts to figure out the problem. The guts of my transfer case was made by Borg Warner according to the transmission shop. I found replacement seals and belt at NP 235 Transfer Case Kits | Cobra Transmission COBRATRANSMISSION.COM Are you looking for the best NP 235 Transfer Case Kits for sale? Shop all NP 235 Transfer Case parts today at Cobra Transmission. The noise I was hearing was due to the belt stretching out over the years, and hitting the inside of the transfer case housing under load. Here are a couple of pictures of the inside. In the almost 2 years since I had the transfer case rebuilt it's been problem free
  11. 2008 Cayenne S, making noise diagnosed by mechanic as needing a new transfer case based on the noise made under hard acceleration. New transfer case ordered from Porsche late 2018. When I stopped by the dealer to check on status of the order yesterday, I was told it's on indefinite backorder. Are there any alternatives? Does a VW Touareg or Audi Q7 transfer case work exactly the same, and are they equivalent and available? So frustrating
  12. My date stopped displaying late last year also (2008 Cayenne S). Same thing happened to my wife's 2005 Carrera (older PCM version). Both with satnav, which is where time and date come from. Now my Cayenne also displays the wrong time at start up, but then corrects (presumably once the GPS updates the clock) I have a Mobridge unit on the Cayenne for Bluetooth, but not on the Carrera, and both stopped displaying the date. Is this a Porsche conspiracy to get everyone to upgrade to newer vehicles?
  13. After researching many options here with search, I found the following: TSB 3/99 2015 "Fuel tank hose modification" may have some suggestions. Since the TSBs don't seem to be available any more, has anybody read this and can tell me the gist of what it says? One of my old posts in 2004 from my 30K service talks about having the same problem, which was solved under warranty when the dealer replaced a valve. Now I need to track down my really old service receipts. I had totally forgotten about this (I still can't remember it), but Search is a wonderful tool More to come. I want to figure this out as much as possible, since I don't usually get charged by the dealer for all the labor involved and don't want to take advantage of my mechanic buddy
  14. First thing the mechanic did was find a quiet place and check for the click when pushing his finger in the fuel filler opening My Boxster is easy to fill about half way with fuel. Then it's a fight with the pump to get it to about 4/5 full. Then I give up
  15. Sunset's parts department response was basically "don't know, and we can't tell from the VIN". Three different charcoal canisters, prices are $165 (08 suffix), $256 (07 suffix) and $692 (03 suffix), not interchangeable, and all are for OBD2 and ORVR. They sell a lot more bleeder valves (996 201 143 01) ($103) and tank valves (996 695 203 01) ($58) than charcoal canisters. So now the problem space has expanded. My mechanic said when they've had this problem before with the car not taking a full tank, replacing the charcoal canister has solved the problem. The BS factor is low, since he's the head mechanic at the Porsche dealer and also a good friend, who doesn't try to sell me anything Maybe I'll just keep driving around with no more than half a tank for the future. It certainly makes fill ups cheaper, even if more often, like having a 7 gallon fuel tank in my Boxster
  16. Pelican listed the part as OEM, plus they are in Los Angeles, CA. Sunset is in Oregon. My mechanic at my local Porsche dealer got the $800 part quote from the dealer parts counter guy, and they have my VIN. But for giggles and grins instead of arguing, I'll call Sunset, since I would buy from them anyway, and see what they can figure out for a California car, then post back here But this doesn't help me figure out what the difference is between the charcoal canisters
  17. Not hearing anything back from anyone on this yet, I decided to call Pelican Parts, for the simple reason they are in the same county, and I figured they would be able to figure out which charcoal canister i need. Apparently there are 3 different canisters, but it's not quite so simple. The 09 suffix was replaced by the 08 suffix, which was then replaced by the 03 suffix. The 06 suffix was replaced by the 07 suffix. When I gave the Pelican Parts person my VIN, she looked it up, and both the 03 and 07 versions popped up in her computer, but she was at a loss as to which one I need Her parts catalog shows the 1997 to 2000 models use the 03 suffix, and 2000 and later use the 07 suffix. Mine is a 2001 2.7 model, in California if that makes a difference. Both ORVR and OBD2 showed up for my VIN Anyone? Help please!
  18. My 2001 Boxster has had trouble getting anywhere close to a full tank at every fill up for a few years, so when I had it serviced yesterday I asked the mechanic to look into what is going on. Symptoms are the fuel fill shuts off frequently, and it's impossible to get a full fill up at the gas station (I've tried numerous gas stations). The mechanic pulled the right front fender liner by the filler out, checked all the fittings, relays, etc, and said the likely cause is the charcoal canister inside the wheel well. Some go bad, others don't, but once they get filled up with fuel, gunk and other stuff they cause the gas fill nozzles to keep shutting off. Being the good friend he is, he checked with the parts department, they said the part is about a grand, but he got them down to $800. Then he said "no" and walked away. He said that's insane, the part used to be affordable, and either live with it or look at a dismantler. I am not getting any check engine light Last night I checked the parts diagram, found the attached parts diagram on the Porsche web site. I found 996 201 221 0x on several parts web sites. The 03 suffix was $692 at Sunset, the 07 suffix was $256, and there was a 08 suffix listed for $165. Other sites indicated the 03 version is no longer available and replaced by either the 07, 08 or 09 suffix. Different sites were offering different suffixes for the canister. What is the difference between all the suffixes, and which one should I use (in California)? [M660 is "OBD2" and M664 is "ORVR" (onboard refueling vapor recovery)] The 08 suffix appears to replace the 02, 05 and 09 suffix parts. The 03 suffix seems to be the expensive flavor, and priced around $800 on a number of sites. Sunset lists the 03 part as "without ORVR" Is there something I can inspect? Or pull out and clean to see if that solves the problem? Dump crud or blow air through the charcoal canister to clear out anything that might prevent my car from filling with gas? Is this a real Porsche part, or something sourced from VW or elsewhere that would be a lot less expensive to buy for another brand? I'm leery of buying used parts, especially for something that could cause emission problems I found a related topic but it doesn't talk about what the differences are in the charcoal canisters, and he was getting a CEL
  19. About a month or so ago we drove from the coast up to Sequoia National Park, going from cool at sea level, across the central valley (and fueling up) with outside temperature about 103 at decent highway speeds, then up into the mountains (up to 7,000 ft) often stuck behind slow moving cars. Once inside the park, and climbing from about 2,500 ft to around 6,000 ft, my '08 Cayenne S started stumbling (driving about 25 MPH), more pronounced in the turns, with RPMs dropping from about 1800-2500 down to about 800, then the engine kicking in. Gas tank was about 3/4 full. The higher the altitude the worse the problem became. Finally at about 5,000, the engine stumbled bad, we pulled over, everything looked OK, and we proceeded. At about 6,000 the engine died, we restarted and pulled over, hitching a ride to the campground we planned to stay at. No dash warning lights, no high temperature readings The next morning, we went to the closest lodge with a phone (and internet), and I found a few references to vapor lock in Cayennes online. I called my mechanic at the dealership, he said it was maybe low fuel level (we had 3/4 tank). There are 2 fuel pumps, but only one runs normally except when starting. The fuel tank is like a saddle where one pump has to pump fuel over the drive shaft to the other side of the tank. We went back to where we left the Cayenne overnight, it started fine and ran fine ever since. I took it in for the 108K mile service yesterday, and fuel pumps checked out OK, and nothing out of the ordinary showed up in all the diagnostics Any ideas whether this was vapor lock? Something else to check? I always thought injected engines don't suffer from vapor lock, but everything is pointing to that as the cause
  20. All the M96/M97 engines with the IMS design are susceptible to IMS failure (as well as plenty of other parts failing prematurely), including the latest and greatest ones. I am operating on the assumption it is very unlikely (but still possible) my new motor in the Carrera will fail. For my Boxster with the LN bearing, even though their IMS bearing is much beefier and better designed than the OEM, there's also a chance it will fail at some point in the future, too. It hasn't been out long enough on enough cars to have a statistically significant feel for the failure rates, but I am assuming (perhaps foolishly because the only truth I know is what I read on the Internet) that my Boxster engine with the LN bearing is less likely to fail than if I hadn't replaced the IMS bearing I'm sure once the new engines design without IMS bearings have been out for a while, some of them will fail as well - it just won't be the IMS that fails, because the engine doesn't have one
  21. The engine was toast. Two years almost to the day out of warranty (6 years after we first bought the car). Porsche picked up a new remanufactured engine and labor. I paid for the diagnosis. New engine in the Carrera included everything attached to the engine as well, like water pump, fuel injection, AOS, etc. It runs better than new and has all the latest engine upgrades, such as bigger IMS bearing bolt. Very unlikely this engine will fail
  22. I've been told the active sway bars can make a banging noise when they kick in. Does the sound occur when you're going around turns?
  23. I just went through a similar experience. Last month my wife's 2005 Carrera with 65K miles decided enough was enough and the IMS sheared apart. I took this as a wake up call for my 2001 Boxster and decided to have the IMS bearing replaced with one of the LN Engineering improved retrofit bearings. Since the car is 10 years old and everything was apart, I did the following as well: replace water pump (which turned out to be a good thing, as it wasn't spinning smoothly and was starting to leak, which the mechanic didn't notice until he pulled it out), installed LN Engineering lower temperature thermostat (which Charles Navarro strongly recommended along with the IMS bearing), replace the oil filler tube (since these are known to get brittle and crack with age), replace the coolant expansion tank (since I knew it already had a slight leak and it had already been replaced under warranty a long time ago), and replace the RMS seal with the latest version. My RMS seal wasn't leaking, but the labor to replace it was insignificant. I would have replaced the clutch (it had over 35K miles on it), but the mechanic said it looked almost new and still had the original printing on it. The dealer couldn't get their act together to order the LN Engineering parts (IMS bearing, extraction tools, low temperature thermostat), so I just ordered direct and had overnighted to the dealer. None of the mechanics at the dealer had ever done the IMS bearing replacement before, but it was straightforward according to them and they didn't encounter any problems. I spent a lot of time there looking at what they were doing, but missed the whole extraction process. Parts from LN Engineering, including overnight shipping, was a little over $1K, and the bill from the dealer with discounts was about $2.5K. Parts from the dealer came to a little over a grand, and most of the labor involved removing and replacing the transmission. Not exactly cheap, but a lot less expensive than a replacement motor, and I'm no longer wondering if/when my engine will self destruct at a most inopportune time. I just got my car back last week and it runs great (if anything, the engine seems a little bit smoother)
  24. My mechanic at the Porsche dealer told me to order the bearing extraction tool along with the retrofit bearing (and low temperature thermostat). The LN pro tool kit comes with cam locking tools which are functionally equivalent to the factory Porsche tools but not as nice, and my mechanic used his. You should check with Charles Navarro about alternatives for the bearing extraction tool, but I suspect it's part of the price to play. As more and more of the bearings are replaced, mechanics will have the tool, but until then I expect just ordering the extraction tool is the fastest and most reliable way to get the bearing out
  25. Besides the suspension items you listed, it could also be the front trunk lid. If the front trunk doesn't close very snug after all the miles on your car, you could get a squeak that's noticeable at low speed
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