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Everything posted by creekman

  1. Joe, how lucky we are to have members like you that contribute so much to the enjoyment of our cars... Thanks,
  2. 2003 996 C4S JFP, Jon and Loren... many thanks for the support and direction. I removed the battery and panel all looked good, I also removed the top hat cover next to the bulkhead on the trunk side, again no tell tale signs of cracks there either. I guess next will be to look at the charcoal canister and gas fill check valve. I think I'll change out the charcoal canister first. 6 years ago when I installed the LS3 V8 I had a problem connecting up the charcoal canister to the new conversion. A friend of mine from the airport holds certificates on welding, A/C, Elect
  3. I put the car on the lift and removed the belly pans... I was hoping that would find the source of my stinky gas smell once the belly pans were removed. Nope, no stains on the belly pans and no wet hoses. So I guess the next step is to check/replace the fill pipe check valve and or the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if the check valve is stuck open will the car run fine and could be the source of my gas fumes... If there's a problem with the check valve will it show up on my Durametric program? Thanks,
  4. Do you have a TPS... Throttle position sensor or because your throttle body is cable driven you do not... Can you manually pull the throttle back to an idle either at the pedal or throttle body... I have a similar problem, but properly not related. I replaced the TPS and throttle body, now it takes several ,minutes for the engine to return to idle...
  5. Jon, That's a good idea to step back before throwing a lot parts at the car. I have my T-Bird restomod project on the lift right now. To do it right I need to drop down the belly pans for a good once over. Speaking of belly pans... Here's a tip if you're tired of replacing the belly pan brackets/retainer clamps. I used aircraft loose nut plates and riveted them to the braces.
  6. The fumes went away, now there back with a vengeance... I changed the gas cap which was cheap and worth a try, what are the possible choices? 1. Per 356, check for hairline cracks in the gas tank sending unit... 2. Per Judgejon, replace the check valve behind the right side fender liner. 3. Could the charcoal canister be full. Where is the charcoal canister? 4. Can this problem be identified with my Durametric program... Thanks, all replies will be appreciated... Mitch
  7. Jon, The Bride of Frankenstein would blow the doors off your ''409'... With a taller ring and pinion she clocks out on paper at 206 MPH at redline in 6th gear, but not with me in it... On an earlier post I mentioned that the idler pulley bolt backing out which is not good... If you ever have to replace that bolt I would recommend using loctite.
  8. Joe, I know I'm in dangerous territory pushing this conversion, but it's been a fun to drive car, gooobs of power and reliable. My point Joe is the electrical was the most challenging part of the conversion snd was a major expense to get it done right. It does bring together different parts, but the word Frankenstein might be a little over the top... Today the after market people have develop easier programs that tend to be plug and play where as 8 years ago you better have your Phd in order...
  9. No, I believe both ECU's have their own job... The Conversion utilized the GM gas pedal, so like you I was surprised when the Porsche OBD port cancelled the check light. It has been years since I hooked up the Durametric program, but I did today with these results... I just thought I need to see if I can date when these codes were thrown... At the top of the attachment it says, "Current /Fault Codes. I want to get to the bottom of this pretty quick, I've never have been flat bedded home so far. I did get stuck in Winslow, AZ for one night with the original engine. The id
  10. Coming home in the middle of the day, probably high 90's, good oil temp and water temp was good when all of a sudden my gas pedal went away and the LS3 V8 cough and quit. I tried to restart without success, Finally it started and got me home without further incident. I plugged y OBD II reader in to the GM port and it wouldn't clear, then plugged it into the Porsche port and it cleared. I have 90,000 miles on the 2003 C4S model and 25,000 on the LS3 motor. NMy question is this a routine mileage event or something else? Certainly it was more of a "ha
  11. My longtime friend and master locksmith said Graphite and LPS 1 also work well...
  12. Mike, Obviously it's something, I installed a short shift kit in my '03' and don't remember any wiring attach to the the shifter? But then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast. On a rare coincidence have you checked the lamps in the tail light housings.... I doubt that the back up lights are on their own fuse, but have you checked that? Keep us posted even if it means embarrassing yourself... Mitch
  13. BM, When you say the A/C kicks in what does mean... The first thing I would check is to be sure the clutch on your compessor is engaging, Stick your head under the back bumper close to the A/C compressor then have someone turn the A/C on... You should hear the pulley coming together with the clutch plate. Also, if it's working you can no longer turn the clutch plate.. And you're sure that you have the correct amount of Fregon, I believe our system takes 1.9 lbs. of R134 Freon... Also, it's good to include the year and model of your car. There's a lot of posting on
  14. I love the looks and hips on the wide body... I had a '84' Turbo Look, with original paint to sample, but got tired of the whales tail. I think the 996 is a great design and will hold it's looks for a long time. After all the test of good design is how will it age and look 10-20 years out. I think the 996 will do well, it checks all the boxes for me. I see you're from CA, where is Mendonesia California... LOL
  15. Might be an easy place to start, although I replaced it about 4 years ago. I'll give a close inspection and go from there. I replaced the bumper cover with a modified 997 GT2 bumper cover. It was an aftermarket fiberglass piece. It was so far off from fitting, not even close. I already had the wrong one sold to me sold to me by another dealer so I was a concern buyer, the guy swore it would fit. I probably have over 40 hours in fiberglass work to get it this close. The big advantage is for the 3rd water radiator to have good flow through air... Plus, I like the L
  16. 356, Good suggestion, that might be a good place to start... It's not under the plastic dome in front of the battery? I don't know if my wide body trunk layout is the same? I had a '53' BeeHive coupe, 'Yr.? Cab, '58' 4 cam speedster, '64' SC. If we had some of these older cars back we would be sitting a little higher on our wallets.
  17. Thanks Jon... First off I can see you're a man of many interests and good taste, whether marriages qualify I don't know, ask me how I know. If I remember you get to the valve by removing the trunk upholstery on the passenger side? I hit the search button for fumes, without any success, I'll follow up as you suggest... Mitch
  18. I'm getting gas fumes in the garage, but nothing on the floor. I've made sure that the cap was turned tight or it had ratched tight.. Is it possible that the charcoal canister is bad? I might add the fumes are easily detected, but not overwhelming... Thanks, Mitch
  19. This is not quite on subject, but along the same lines... I found out the hard way on my 2003 C4S, if you start the car and let it run, then reach in the open window and turn the key off and walk away the interior lights will not turn off until the door is opened and closed... Which leads to a dead battery...
  20. Sorry, I saw the "K" and took it for 1,000. You're still spending a pot full of money on a high mileage engine I would really be sure the rest of the engine is worth it. It's obvious you've taken good care of the engine to date. Keep us posted on what you're going to do...
  21. Have you done a leak down test to see if the cylinders and valves are in good shape. Not sure since you've come this far you might consider rebuilding the engine. Another 60K failure is the water pump. It just seems like a lot of money in parts and labor to put into a 230,000 mile engine. I appreciate we're talking a lot of money either way...
  22. What has your Porsche Service Center said in regards to the rust... No question the rust is extreme, are you sure the shocks are original equipment? I think you'll have to suck it up and have the shocks replaced at your expense. There's always associated cost with owning any car, let alone a Porsche. Wayne Dempsey's book "101 projects for your Porsche" says you could spend up to $3,000 and 20 hours to replace the shocks, bushing, tie rods, , sway bar and associated hardware. If you're a DIY hands on it might be a good project. Dempsey's book would would walk you through the t
  23. Liberato, I think your expectations are rather high... Porsche can't be responsible for how a 15 year plus car has been maintained. Are you the original owner, or have you just recently purchased the car? Either way I think your observation is correct, replace the shocks. Looks like a nice car, enjoy it...
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