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creekman

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Everything posted by creekman

  1. Wow, I never knew that, great information to pass on... I'll certainly look to find the release. OK, assuming the solenoid is bad how do you get to that if you don't have a Bentley's book?
  2. I can't imagine how the fuel door could be jammed since it's a simple hinge operation. Was the car lock when you tried to open the gas door? There's a sliding bolt that secures the gas door when the car is locked. Maybe if the car is not locked the sliding bolt is stuck? Why don't you get a second person to lock and unlock the doors while you gently bang on the gas door.
  3. Easy peasy... Just take a 18 ga. wire, more or less by 4"- 5" more or less and find 2 female spade connectors that fit over the 2 exposed male terminals. Make up the pigtail with the 2 female spade connectors, install and you have now defeated the clutch safety switch. I'll replace the switch, but for now its a quick fix. Is yours broken... the only advantage I can see is you can start the car without getting in, better have the E-brake set and the trans in neutral. One last comment, if you reach in and start the car, then turn it off reaching through the open window you'll have a dead battery by the next morning. You have to open and close the door for the computer to shut down the interior lights. I'm not sure if all years worked the same way, but that's how my '03' C4S works. I have had a dead battery to prove it... Try it yourself and see if the interior lights time out just reaching through the open window.
  4. Andrew, Electrical is the least of my talents... but for whatever it's worth wire size depends on distance as well as loads. You're only talking about moving the switches 18"-24"? You would probably be ok using the same wire size, but to cover you self you bump up the wire size. If the roof actuator motor was on a relay then I don't think you have a worry to use the same size wire. My 2 cents... There must be a 'sparky' out there that can give you a yea or ney...
  5. I've had my woes with installing the headlight assemblies. On the left side I broke the plastic plug support the right side I couldn't get the directional light to work all the time. Finally figured out the headlight assembly wasn't seating in the plug properly, bought a new tray and that took care of the problem. Mating the assembly with the plug always seems like a vague proposition too me, you're relying on a lot of plastic for alignment. I think you've answered your own question, I would remove the headlight assembly and see if that stops the battery drain. Like you said check the plug for bent pins, be sure you haven't broken the plastic plug support. On my 2003 C4 it's a rather fragile hoop that retains the plug. If you didn't have a problem before and now you do it must be some problem with the plug? Let us know what you find... And congratulations on posting on the forum...
  6. Thanks, Your input is always appreciated, I know the members are grateful for your contributions... At Porsche Dealer hourly repair costs you have probably saved us poor folks hundred of thousands of dollars. You're the best...
  7. I've had a drain for sometime, at least I think I do... the battery will stay charged for about a week... I finally attached permanently a pigtail for a quick connect to a Battery Minder charger. Thanks for the info, I'll check out what I've got. I've done it before, but did not wait the 45 minutes.
  8. I've got a used 58,000 mile differential that I took out of my 2003 car, I'd sell it for $300 FOB Fredericksburg, TX.
  9. What about flying, then drive the car home... if you feel reasonably comfortable with your due diligence... The trouble with that is the seller knows he's got ya so you better have all your ducks in a row before you hope that jet... That's how I brought my car home, it was a memorable drive, 19 hours straight through. Is your seller a dealer or private party? Maybe you can find a local Porsche person to look at it. For a fee you can find an agent that will do a pre-buy for you as well. When you say a 9 hour drive is that one way? I'd ask for a 100 pictures, maybe not a 100, but with an i-phone pictures are no big deal. I'd still start out with a CarFax then work your way down the food chain. The annual mileage is really low, which can be a good thing, but it must be a cream puff because it spent a lot of time sitting. Just remember there's a lot of Porsches for sale, you might be better off to find one locally. Although anything locally will have been driven in the snow? Or do most owner's put there car up in winter storage? Keep us posted, it's an interest dilema... Oh, is this going to be a Sunday go meeting car or D/D? Sorry for rambling, another idea is to see if your seller will meet you half way to reduce your drive time. If he's hot to trot he might go for that...
  10. I would spend the money for a CarFax report... Ask to see the paperwork for service and repairs. Go through every knob and accessory to be sure everything works. If something doesn't it doesn't mean you're not buying the car, but can be a negotiating tool for a better price.
  11. I believe that Porsche of San Antonio charges $160.00/hr. Even if you could afford the car you would be hard pressed to pay that rate. At least I would ... I'd hate to spend $200-$300 for the dealer to scan the system only to find out that it was the sending unit. Depending on the cost of the sending unit I might start there... Can anybody tell which direction is best?
  12. Fire Max, Never give up... Here's a link to a vendor. FOR PORSCHE: FVD51299617, FVD 512 996 17 - READY TO SHIP - (REAR SPOILER 996 POLYTHURAN) WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  13. Fire Max, I missed giving you all the information, I still don't know where you can purchase it, but it looks like you've cooled off on it anyway. I'm sure this is the same as mine... FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran | 996 | Porsche, Vehicles WWW.PINTEREST.COM FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran https://www.pinterest.com/pin/21744010680674550/
  14. Fire Max - Scott from Renegade got back to me, here's what he had to say: Mitch... I don’t honestly. I know that Sam did one on his rear deck of his 996 as well, but I don’t think it came through our camp. Sorry buddy... I looked around on the Internet for this piece. This was all I found on Pintrest. I don’t have an account so I can’t get in to see it closer. Hopefully you can send this to him and that might help a little: FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran | 996 | Porsche, Vehicles WWW.PINTEREST.COM FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran Sincerely, Scott >>> Renegade Hybrids www.renegadehybrids.com
  15. One of our members asked me where I got this spoiler, so far after 5 years I haven't been able to pull any paperwork to help him. Would any of you know who made these. It's rubber, not fiberglass. Thanks for any leads, Mitch
  16. I got a message regarding where I got the "winglet", but it would not let me reply. To answer the question I'll have to look through my files. Mitch
  17. Ok. sorry to hear you're having problems... Tell us year and model, also what does "no go" mean... Does the starter work, or you have nothing, Is the dash lighting up, interior lights working? Do you have a chart of the fuses and what they do?
  18. Scott, I think all that key work has to come from Germany... I might be wrong? No matter what you're not going to get this done at your local Ace hardware, suggest you call or go in person to a Porsche dealer with your Vin numbers in hand and discuss your problem with the parts man. I only say this as I had to replace a door handle and lock several years ago and we had to have the keying made in Germany through the local dealer. You'll find this forum very helpful and filled with great members. If you're ever down Fredericksburg way stop in and we'll have a Shiner. ..
  19. I am surprised that with all this historical talent on this forum someone hasn't identified your wheels. I guess that makes them all the more rare and unique. They look right for your car, good off-set, 19's add to the look and they have a clean design. What are the tire sizes? I'm a wheel guy, I think the right wheel can make the car. Here's mine... 285's and 305's X 19"
  20. At 19" I doubt that... However what difference does it make... They're cool looking wheels and probably one of the reasons you bought the car...
  21. I can't blame you for wanting the car, it has a lot of personality...
  22. I don't know about the wheels, but wheels and car are "bad to the bone". You did good, congratulations...
  23. I just read your post again and like Hardtailer I question why you call the bolt, 'reverse torx'? Is there a chance you tighten the bolt rather than loosen it. Those bolts were never very tight anyway...
  24. Knowing you have a problem you might soak the remaining screw with a good penetrant over night before trying to remove it. Since the mounting bracket I'm guessing is aluminum and the screws are steel you might have some galvanic action going on. Hopefully the screws were not over tighten in the first place as lens are subject to cracking and checking. My C4 lens assemblies a number of years ago were $500 each so treat with care. I wonder depending on the mounting brackets you could remove the mounting bracket so you could work on apply penetrant from the back side and maybe even grab the bolt with vise grips and turn the bolt out from the back of the bracket?
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