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Everything posted by creekman

  1. Right now I have another car on the lift, as soon as I can move it I'll put the Porsche on and really see if I can find out what's going on. We have had a second guy (long time mechanic) under the car while we went through the gears and found no problem at the trans. However, I still feel like there's a lot of play at the rod ends. Just in passing, I still love my car, I think the styling has help up well considering it's an 18 year old car. When you think about all the features the car has and the road going capabilities it makes for a mile stone car IMHO. It still looks current as oppose to my '84' Turbo Look which became dated. At least in my eyes... Thanks, Loren, Jon and Flanders for the replies... Mitch
  2. Hmmm, I don't remember the alignment tool. The transaxle was gone through when I changed the ring and pinion 7-8 years ago. It shifts like a hot knife through butter. But on those occasions when you're shifting from one gear to the next the shifter hits a brick wall. I can sit in the garage (engine not running) and shift it without depressing the clutch and the shift is silky smooth. There's a lot of movement on the rod ends at the transaxle... Are the shift cable rod ends replaceable, do they wear? I'm pretty positive I'm good inside the transaxle. Thanks Loren for the reply... I'm glad you're still on the job...
  3. I haven't found any repeating circumstances, but I might have been too busy trying to get it back in gear. I thought it might be the rod ends at the transmission, but after looking them over we put that aside. I have a Porsche short shifter for a number of years with no problem. It's like there's a foreign object and the shift mechanism bottoms out on the obstruction. I pulled the shifter cover and looked at the shifter and it appeared to be good. It's a bad feeling when your in traffic and the car won't go... Anybody have an idea what I might look at? Thanks
  4. Joe, how lucky we are to have members like you that contribute so much to the enjoyment of our cars... Thanks,
  5. 2003 996 C4S JFP, Jon and Loren... many thanks for the support and direction. I removed the battery and panel all looked good, I also removed the top hat cover next to the bulkhead on the trunk side, again no tell tale signs of cracks there either. I guess next will be to look at the charcoal canister and gas fill check valve. I think I'll change out the charcoal canister first. 6 years ago when I installed the LS3 V8 I had a problem connecting up the charcoal canister to the new conversion. A friend of mine from the airport holds certificates on welding, A/C, Electrical, Diesel engines on unlimited tonnage for ships. He's a civilian contractor hired by the navy to be in charge of maintenance on big ships... Where he goes is always a secret. This guy will always be the smartest person in the room... Anyway the Porsche might still be sitting in the garage if he hadn't figured out how the system worked. Took him 30 minutes to draw out the system and 10 minutes to change some hoses. But the charcoal canister had been full of gas, but the system has never given me a lick of trouble since, so long story short, that is why I might start with the canister... Loren, say again how you assign points... Thanks
  6. I put the car on the lift and removed the belly pans... I was hoping that would find the source of my stinky gas smell once the belly pans were removed. Nope, no stains on the belly pans and no wet hoses. So I guess the next step is to check/replace the fill pipe check valve and or the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if the check valve is stuck open will the car run fine and could be the source of my gas fumes... If there's a problem with the check valve will it show up on my Durametric program? Thanks,
  7. Do you have a TPS... Throttle position sensor or because your throttle body is cable driven you do not... Can you manually pull the throttle back to an idle either at the pedal or throttle body... I have a similar problem, but properly not related. I replaced the TPS and throttle body, now it takes several ,minutes for the engine to return to idle...
  8. Jon, That's a good idea to step back before throwing a lot parts at the car. I have my T-Bird restomod project on the lift right now. To do it right I need to drop down the belly pans for a good once over. Speaking of belly pans... Here's a tip if you're tired of replacing the belly pan brackets/retainer clamps. I used aircraft loose nut plates and riveted them to the braces.
  9. The fumes went away, now there back with a vengeance... I changed the gas cap which was cheap and worth a try, what are the possible choices? 1. Per 356, check for hairline cracks in the gas tank sending unit... 2. Per Judgejon, replace the check valve behind the right side fender liner. 3. Could the charcoal canister be full. Where is the charcoal canister? 4. Can this problem be identified with my Durametric program... Thanks, all replies will be appreciated... Mitch
  10. Jon, The Bride of Frankenstein would blow the doors off your ''409'... With a taller ring and pinion she clocks out on paper at 206 MPH at redline in 6th gear, but not with me in it... On an earlier post I mentioned that the idler pulley bolt backing out which is not good... If you ever have to replace that bolt I would recommend using loctite.
  11. Joe, I know I'm in dangerous territory pushing this conversion, but it's been a fun to drive car, gooobs of power and reliable. My point Joe is the electrical was the most challenging part of the conversion snd was a major expense to get it done right. It does bring together different parts, but the word Frankenstein might be a little over the top... Today the after market people have develop easier programs that tend to be plug and play where as 8 years ago you better have your Phd in order...
  12. No, I believe both ECU's have their own job... The Conversion utilized the GM gas pedal, so like you I was surprised when the Porsche OBD port cancelled the check light. It has been years since I hooked up the Durametric program, but I did today with these results... I just thought I need to see if I can date when these codes were thrown... At the top of the attachment it says, "Current /Fault Codes. I want to get to the bottom of this pretty quick, I've never have been flat bedded home so far. I did get stuck in Winslow, AZ for one night with the original engine. The idler pulley bolt backed out, a local towing service came out with his flatbed, took me to the Chrysler dealer, charged me $85.. They had the Porsche dealer in a neighboring town overnight the parts. I was on the road again by 10:00 the next morning... All in all it was a memorable experience and meant some nice people. \
  13. Coming home in the middle of the day, probably high 90's, good oil temp and water temp was good when all of a sudden my gas pedal went away and the LS3 V8 cough and quit. I tried to restart without success, Finally it started and got me home without further incident. I plugged y OBD II reader in to the GM port and it wouldn't clear, then plugged it into the Porsche port and it cleared. I have 90,000 miles on the 2003 C4S model and 25,000 on the LS3 motor. NMy question is this a routine mileage event or something else? Certainly it was more of a "have your car service" event since the gas pedal went away and the engine stopped. I was surprised that I cancel/erase it on the Porsche OBD port. I was hoping for some rare insight which has its complications, but still puts a smile on my face... Thanks, Mitch
  14. My longtime friend and master locksmith said Graphite and LPS 1 also work well...
  15. Mike, Obviously it's something, I installed a short shift kit in my '03' and don't remember any wiring attach to the the shifter? But then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast. On a rare coincidence have you checked the lamps in the tail light housings.... I doubt that the back up lights are on their own fuse, but have you checked that? Keep us posted even if it means embarrassing yourself... Mitch
  16. BM, When you say the A/C kicks in what does mean... The first thing I would check is to be sure the clutch on your compessor is engaging, Stick your head under the back bumper close to the A/C compressor then have someone turn the A/C on... You should hear the pulley coming together with the clutch plate. Also, if it's working you can no longer turn the clutch plate.. And you're sure that you have the correct amount of Fregon, I believe our system takes 1.9 lbs. of R134 Freon... Also, it's good to include the year and model of your car. There's a lot of posting on the blowing insulation. I have it and it doesn't seem to have made any difference. I share your frustration as I have a delayed start with my A/C after a cold start of about 5-10 minutes, once the car is warm up the A/C fires right off... I'm sure you'll get some good input from the other members... Good luck and Welcome
  17. I love the looks and hips on the wide body... I had a '84' Turbo Look, with original paint to sample, but got tired of the whales tail. I think the 996 is a great design and will hold it's looks for a long time. After all the test of good design is how will it age and look 10-20 years out. I think the 996 will do well, it checks all the boxes for me. I see you're from CA, where is Mendonesia California... LOL
  18. Might be an easy place to start, although I replaced it about 4 years ago. I'll give a close inspection and go from there. I replaced the bumper cover with a modified 997 GT2 bumper cover. It was an aftermarket fiberglass piece. It was so far off from fitting, not even close. I already had the wrong one sold to me sold to me by another dealer so I was a concern buyer, the guy swore it would fit. I probably have over 40 hours in fiberglass work to get it this close. The big advantage is for the 3rd water radiator to have good flow through air... Plus, I like the LED DTR lights.... Also, I have 3 front directional lights, 1 in the headlight unit, the LED DTR light has an amber turn signal light and we wired up the fender side marker light to also be a directional light. Thanks all for your help... Mitch
  19. 356, Good suggestion, that might be a good place to start... It's not under the plastic dome in front of the battery? I don't know if my wide body trunk layout is the same? I had a '53' BeeHive coupe, 'Yr.? Cab, '58' 4 cam speedster, '64' SC. If we had some of these older cars back we would be sitting a little higher on our wallets.
  20. Thanks Jon... First off I can see you're a man of many interests and good taste, whether marriages qualify I don't know, ask me how I know. If I remember you get to the valve by removing the trunk upholstery on the passenger side? I hit the search button for fumes, without any success, I'll follow up as you suggest... Mitch
  21. I'm getting gas fumes in the garage, but nothing on the floor. I've made sure that the cap was turned tight or it had ratched tight.. Is it possible that the charcoal canister is bad? I might add the fumes are easily detected, but not overwhelming... Thanks, Mitch
  22. This is not quite on subject, but along the same lines... I found out the hard way on my 2003 C4S, if you start the car and let it run, then reach in the open window and turn the key off and walk away the interior lights will not turn off until the door is opened and closed... Which leads to a dead battery...
  23. Sorry, I saw the "K" and took it for 1,000. You're still spending a pot full of money on a high mileage engine I would really be sure the rest of the engine is worth it. It's obvious you've taken good care of the engine to date. Keep us posted on what you're going to do...
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