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creekman

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Everything posted by creekman

  1. Swede-man, How about posting a "butt" pix when the tires are mounted, that way we get a twofer, tires and tail lights... Thanks,
  2. I recently got the Pro version (to share with "the cadre of compulsive Porsche people") and use it on my MacBook Air. On the MacBook, I run virtualbox with Windows XP. So, it will work on a Mac, but it needs to be inside of a vm. Let me know if you need more details. keytohwy keyto hwy... I ended up getting an old PC lap top from my Daughter. I'll buy it off of her since she just had it gone through it. It's not the fastest thing going, but will get the job done. I purchased the Durametric Enthusiast. So far it's been great, however I need to learn a lot more to be able to use it effectively. Loren has been a big help, as well as JFP IN pa, and Ahsai... You guys really make this site the best, many thanks...
  3. Swede-Man, Have you looked at the plastic mounting tabs on the tail light housing to see if the plastic is any heavier. 3 of my 4 tabs are either cracked or broken. I've been trying to figure out how to re-enforce the tabs, but the plastic mounting tabs are pretty intricate to replicate in aluminum. Tell us how the Dectane housing fit the car... Are the Michelins stock sizes front and rear?
  4. Ahsai, thanks for the explanation, I think... Are you saying that I've had 2586 spark plug firings that were at the rev limit? And the last firing at the rev limit occurred at 2224 hrs? I understand that I had a mechanical overrev at 1925.5 hr. The computer information doesn't count 6 spark plug firings, only one? So the Range 1 and 2 numbers have nothing to do w/ the hours? Does the 2258.2 total running hours equate to the 60,000 miles? Is there a comparison here, hours vs miles? Thanks for your reply, remembering that I'm of the timing light generation...
  5. I hope you don't mind me jumping in on your thread... I'm trying to find my way around my new Durametric tool. Here's my ECU information reading: 1. Range 1 - Number of ignition starts - 2586 - for 2224 hrs. Does this mean the car has been started or the key has been turned on 2586 times for a total run time of 2224 hrs? 2. Range 2 - 1/1925.5 hr. This means that the car was over rev one time at 1925.5 hours? 3. Operating hours - 2258.2 hrs. - Why is this different from the Range 1 hours? 4. If you figure that my car has 60,000 miles on the clock and it took 2224 hrs of time, then that averages out to 27 MPH. Could that be right? Thanks, Mitch
  6. Thanks Loren... I'll do it. Anyone looking for this information, go to: 1. Tool bar, DIY tools 2. Click Maintenance Schedule 3. Click Maintenance Booklet
  7. I see after looking at some docs under Maintenance Booklet that Loren has posted that there's a form to register w/ Porsche Cars of North America any change of ownership. Is that a worthwhile thing to do?
  8. Dave, If you're talking about the 2 round plastic plugs I believe they screw in... try and take a flat blade screw driver and turn the plugs clockwise to tighten. I'm not sure about this, but it appeared to me that they tighten up when I rotated the plugs. How about putting a piece of Velcro on the head of the plastic plugs? Use the "industrial" strength Velcro...
  9. Thanks Loren, I know that the PET is a parts manual, I was thinking if I could match the P/N's given on the "information faults" then it might help to diagnosis the faults. I guess that might be a reach in as much there's not a reverse way of finding P/N's? OK, I've gone to Pelican Parts Catalog and found the following... 1. Is a thef control unit - http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_Search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=&make=&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&command=DWsearch&REFINE=Y&FORUM_REFER=&SUPERCAT_FLAG=&make=&description=99661826203&x=39&y=11 2. P/N 590 996 618 14 - nothing comes up on the Pelican Parts Catalog. I'll clear the faults as you suggest... Thanks,
  10. I just received my "Enthusiast" Durametric tool and immediately set about to clear PO301 fault. No problem there, but in doing the "short tests all modules" I got 2 hits, both information notices. I can't find these faults in the fault codes? 1. Alarm - 132, P/N 996 618 262 03, then a supplier number - 080504008003 2. ABS/PSM 5.3 P/N 590 996 618 14 Do we have a PET parts manual on line? I have no CEL's on the dash, so what does this mean? I didn't want to clear anything until I know more about what I'm doing, stay tuned, Film at eleven. The fun never stops... Thanks,
  11. Yep, actually I had used another word that rhymes w/ "mits", but the site program did one of these ******, so pointy things was the next best. Maybe you have a better word?
  12. I just installed a pair of Lloyd's front clear "Protector" floor mats. The car came with the heavy ribbed rubber mats, while they work well I thought they looked a little industrial. Plus they are very thick and w/ my size 13 shoes the clear Protector mats give a little more room around the pedals. I also removed the mounting clips and straps. You could see through the mats so the straps showed, plus the plastic end caps to the seat rails were really tight because the mats were under the nose of the rail caps. By getting rid of the mounting straps I could push the mats a little further forward. Also now I can easily remove them for cleaning. My thinking is with the pointy things on the bottom side of the mats they won't go anywhere, plus they're trapped on 3 sides. We'll see how they work out...
  13. Thanks for the info, I never could get the connector to come loose, so i just removed the air filter attaching screws and laid the lid over on the fender with proper protection of course. Just a point regarding the torx screws at the MAF electrical connector, you have to have a special torx that has a hole in the middle of the torx that will go over the center pin of the head of the screw/bolt. Next time I'll drill a hole on my lathe in the end of my torx wrench to do that. It seems that all of the electrical connectors have a different release mechanism. Maybe some knowledgeable member could include all the connectors and how they release... I un-did another connector and the plastic keeper immediately broke. I'm guessing the plastic has become brittle from the engine heat. Porsche seems to have used a lot more plastic than my "84". Same for the tail light plastic attachment tabs, 3 of the 4 are cracked or broken. My car has 60,000 miles and hasn't been molested so these areas are indicative of a poor design. Just my 2 cents... However, I love the car, what a great driver...
  14. Question: I changed out the engine air filter yesterday, then proceeded to do some cleaning using gunk and washed the engine down. I covered the alternator and the MAF inlet. It wasn't a heavy soaking since I did this in my garage. When I had the air filter canister back in the car and started it I got a solid CEL light. Also I had a miss at idle. I went by Auto Zone and they said I had a PO301 code. That pertained to No. 1 cylinder and relates to possible Vac leak, injector fault, hi or low fuel pressure and possible ignition system fault - spark plug. After driving 3-4 miles today the miss seems to have gone away and all is normal, I think... My question is, will the CEL go off by itself, assuming it was just some water on the coil, or wires, or does it have to be turned off? Thanks,
  15. Tonight I was reviewing the Durametric tool and if I'm correct the only difference between the Professional model and the Enthusiast model is the limitation of only be able to use it on 3 cars, total. Also this code Question: What is the difference between the Enthusiast kit and the Professional kit? Answer: In Durametric version 5, the difference is the number of cars the kit allows you to work on. The Enthusiast kits are limited to use on 3 cars - managed by VIN, not model. The Professional kit has no limit to the number of cars on which it can be used. With the introduction of Durametric version 6, the Professional kits alone gain the ability to perform Coding changes on supported control units. My question is do I really need to perform Coding changes, and if so what would they be? It appears that if you wanted to perform Coding changes the control unit on the car would have to let you do that first. I'm just trying to validate whether it's worth spending the extra $300 plus for the Professional unit? Also I saw on the Q&A that you can turn back your Enthusiast cable for a Professional at only the original cost difference. On the surface for me that seems to be the way to go... Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks,
  16. I hate myself to have to ask this question, but I can't get the MAF electrical connector off of the air filter body. Bentley's just says disconnect the connector so no help there. There seems to be a "button" on the back side, but no matter what I do the plug won't release. There's also a tab on each side of the plug, but no help there either. I wanted to take the filter body out of the car to clean and see what I can see behind the filter body. Any help will be appreciated...
  17. Jon, Thanks , really helpful information...
  18. Question... can any Apple/Mac products work with the Durametric system. I saw on their web site that it is only compatible with P/C platforms. Is there any alternative to that? Thanks,
  19. Phillipj, are you saying that the orange peel is the result of aging, and did not come that way when new? I agree, it's cheaper than paint, plus the car's paint is only original once...
  20. Just to follow up on my original post. I chose Xpel Ultimate protection film. The Ultimate film is self-healing, virtually no orange peel. Turned out great. I took my car to the San Antonio Corporate offices of Xpel where they train installers for their film from all over the world. So the installers were also instructors for installing their film. Also they do this in a clean room so that no dirt or dust gets under the film during installation. I had the headlights, side view mirrors and the front bumper, plus 24" up on the hood and fenders. They call that their bikini cut. I polished the headlight lens before going in, then with the film the lens look like brand new. Pricey, but I think worth it... They also sell kits for any car. The kits don't wrap around the edge of the hood or into the headlight bucket. You can buy just the roll stock and cut to fit if that's your choice. For headlights and the hood I think it would be fairly easy to do your own install, but the compound curves of the bumper might be another thing for the DIY'er.
  21. On the last 2 outings with my new car (new to me) I've come back to the garage with a black dust all over the lower rear fender. It's not sticky, just a fine black dust. Am I correct to think that it is a brake dust. The lower rear fender is the worst, but even the lower door panel has some of the same thing, as does the wheels. If it is brake dust, does anyone have a recommendation for a brake pad that doesn't dust as badly? I won't be tracking this car... Thanks,
  22. I think at best it's a trade off between visible line, some orange peel and the dreaded rock chips. Choose your poison...
  23. Thanks all for your input... I guess no one has used the spray on bra. I wouldn't use it until I knew more about it and saw it first hand.
  24. I found a thread on the installation of film type bras, but the last post was April 2010. My question is after looking into different types of front end protection whether anyone has used some of the newer spray on clear bras? The Chip Magic, Armor Coat, some of these are proprietary and not available to me locally. Any thoughts on the good, bad and ugly would be appreciated...
  25. Thanks Loren, again and again... I was trying to weed out the in-opt accessories fuses, maybe this isn't really needed?
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