creekman

Well I'm answering my own question...  I always seem to come up with odd ball questions so I don't get much response.  It is what it is...  Here's another question on the same issue, will the Renntech mod for turning your marker lights into daytime lights and directionals work on a 2003.  I ask this question because if the switching of the lights are part of the CANbus system then the mod might not work?  

Can anyone tell me if the lights are not controlled by the CAN bus?

Thanks,

I'm installing a 997 bumper cover modified for the 9096 headlights which includes new LED running lights.  I thought I might change over the side marker lights to daytime lights as well.  I've read several postings which appear there's more than one way to do this.  I'm wondering if anyone likes one method or another better.

1.  There's a great post that seems very comprehensive - U.S. 986-966 Front Fender Side Marker Light Circuit Modification

2.  E-bay purchased a module that turns on and off the lights with the key ignition.

3.  Jumping the fuse panel.  I couldn't find the definitive procedure for this, but sounds like an easy fix?

I would appreciate any updates on the above methods...

Thanks,

Howdy,

I'm a 996 guy, however I'm installing an after market 997 F/G GT2 bumper on my 996.  It has the LED blade lights in the grill.  Can someone tell me if the LED lights are both directional and running lights, or just one or the other?  Also what does the smaller 5W light do, is that a European parking light?

Thanks,

Just for grins why not disconnect the battery and reconnect just in case the ECU isn't happy...  Do you have an OBDII reader, that might tell you something.

Caliper lettering update...  I waited for 4 weeks for my supplier to get the PORSCHE decals for my brake calipers, after vague responses on a ship date I went to the internet and bought a set on line.  What I ended up with is 4.3" long die cut vinyl letters.  I believe the letters were originally 4".  That was ok since my car is not concours...  Actually I liked the longer lettering strip and the die cut letters went on nicely.  Albeit they can be tricky to install.  I had one of the letters leap off of the mounting sheet and stick to the caliper, I carefully removed it and repositioned it on the mounting sheet.

I used Dupli-Color VHT clear spray giving the face of the caliper two coats, looks great...  I bought the lettering from a Florida based internet vendor (not from China), they furnished 4 lettering strips.  If I was to do it again I would order 5 strips, 4 to use, 1 to lose.  I might add that this vendor referred to his lettering as decals, but they were die cut letters.  I'm ok with that, but you should know what you're getting if that is important.

Chicagospeed...  I have a set of motor mounts out of my 2003 C4S with 60,000 miles that are good, and I would sell cheap...

Uwon, seems like a good idea whether you're tracking your car or not to use the VHT clear.  Thanks for the suggestion...

AWDGuy,

Can you rotate the driveshaft to get better access to the remaining bolts?  Do you have open end wrenches that you can use instead of the ratchet and socket?

Yes... the drive shaft is connected to the front diff on a spline and will slip out.  Although when I removed mine I didn't plan on re-installing it so 

I took it all the way out.  In your case you might tie up the flange end and leave it connected at the front differential.  

I don't know if it happens to you, but occasionally I get spray bottles of spray on wax, and other auto cleaning materials that are dispense from a plastic spray bottles clogged up and won't work.  I had a Meguiar's detailer bottle stop working, after messing with running water down the pick-up tube I finally threw the pump head into a pan of water and turn the stove on hot, not a boil...  And low and behold the pump started working again.

I know that this won't end world hunger, but I thought maybe someone else might find the information useful...

Ronnie,

Thanks for the reply, do you use a clear coat out of a shaker can or a 2 part good stuff?  Do you have a source for the decals?

Does anyone have any information on whether the "die cut" lettering is better or worst compared to the "decal" lettering?  Since Porsche does not sell this, I've found several sources on the internet as well as in England.  

So any suggestions on which material is best and where to buy?

Thanks,

I would put the car on jack stands so it's level, I think it would make it easier re-installing the transaxle.  As far as height, I would measure the height of the transaxle, add the height of the floor jack and put a another 6" or so for clearance and call it good.  You'll need to remove the front driveshaft.  

I would put some other backup shoring under the car just to make sure if the car falls off the jack stands you don't get squished.  It happens so be safe.  The transaxle output shaft has fine splines and can be a bugger to get lined up.  Sometimes turning the axle flanges while installing the trans can help seat the shaft into the clutch disc.  Speaking of the clutch, depending on how many miles you have on the clutch I would change it while the trans is out.  If you have more than 60,000 miles on your clutch, then change it...

Have you thought about how you're going to shore up the rear of the engine?  There's a transupport at the forward end of the transaxle, you'll want to take that down.  The reason being is that there is a belly pan tab that interferes with the vertical clearance.  None of this is brain surgery, just take your time.  Put the bolts in marked baggies or put them back where they came from.   There's a hydraulic line which serves the clutch slave cylinder that is on top of the trans, hard to see and hard to get at.  Best you have a "line wrench" for that.  It might be 11 mm?

Good luck,

I don't drive my car a lot around town, but I love the road trips in the car.  The trip takes on a new excitement when you drive your car.  And the memories are better...  Here's a pix up on I-80 in Wyoming last September.

I just put 5,000 miles on a road trip around the Western U.S. with my "03" C4S, albeit it has a LS3 V8.  However the car is a joy to drive x-country, I'm 6-2 and a lot older than you.  I can stretch out my legs by putting my feet under the pedals while on cruise control.  

I would plan your trip by checking out places you would like to see.  Museums, historical sites, etc.  But if you have no interest in any of these things then I would just jump on the crowd killer and call it good.  You didn't say how you would get your car to California if you didn't drive it?  With wx on your smart-phone you can plan your route.  If you go across I-80 in the winter it can be nasty.  I live in Texas so if I go West it's always on I-10 which can be pretty boring unless you're into cactus and rabbits, however most of it has a posted 75-80MPH speed limit.  I always plan my trips around seeing friends and family.  Plus I get free lodging...

I'm not how sure this applies to your situation, but I have lowered my LS3 motor, but I remove the upper mounting bolt of the two 12mm (?) bolts that are at the forward transmission mount.  Then the whole assembly can pivot on the remaining bolt.  Otherwise you'll torque the rubber mount...

I guess that could happen depending on how dedicate the thief was...  However going after your GT3 that might raise his dedication level...

Wow, life is complicated enough without having to deal with battery alarms...  I wonder what the logic is since when the car alarm is armed the battery would be safe from intruders?

Thanks Loren...

Upnorth...  I'm guessing you can remove the key.  I've always just disconnected the battery without the alarm going off?  I might add if you're going to disconnect the battery I would first lower the door windows a tad so you can open and close the doors without the door glass binding on the door rubber.

Then I'm sure that someone from the "braintrust" will answer you.  However you might check all your lights to be sure they're all working so you begin to narrow down the problem.  You might even remove the light bulbs and be sure that the contacts are all clean.  You can buy electrical contact clean in an aerosol can at your favorite auto parts house.

I'm guessing it's a bad bulb, bad flasher, or bad ground, there's not much else that can go wrong.  

Sometimes if both front and rear lights/bulbs are not both good they can do that.  A poor ground is another reason...  That's my 2 cents.  Keep us posted...

On all my plastic covers I use a S.S. fender washer to better distribute the load of the bolt head over the plastic.  Your screw here is a Torx head bolt.

AWD Guy...  When I undertook dropping the engine I purchased a MaxJax lift.  You can find new ones for under $2,000.  It's a 2 post lift and works under an 8' ceiling.  Much safer than floor jacks and jack stands.  It's a good investment if you're going to do your own work and maintenance.  I've had my car up and down so many times I can't even count, there's not much you can do from the top of the car so it's a valuable piece of equipment in your my tool box.

Yesterday I was coming home from a PCA picnic and had to drive into the Texas afternoon sun, it was brutal... and dangerous. Has anyone found a good anti-glare visor that doesn't use vel-cro straps and looks like it came from Walmart?  I cruise the internet and found some with clips and a 2 visor set up for day and night driving.  I hoping for something more appropriate for our cars... I guess my first choice would be something that would snap in place and could be stored in the glove box?

Thanks,