creekman

Andy,

I saw this used on the English TV show, "Wheeler-Dealers".  Ed the mechanic spoke highly of this product.

In the event you need a engine room blower fan I have a good one...  I'll make the price right since it's just taking up room on the shelf...

Ronnie, it sounds like "Hal" has taken over your CPU...  

As aside, I had my car on the lift and wanted to activate the alarm, it wouldn't work...  Once the car was back on the ground the alarm worked.  Pretty scary what goes on in that little black box...

Let us know if drying out the CPU did the trick...

Just a short in the dark... since the voltage is good when you start the car, but drops after 10 miles or so could it be bad radiator fans that are drawing too much power.  Maybe pull the fan fuses if that's possible and see what happens.

I would replace the slave cylinder and the throw-out bearing for sure...  If the flywheel face isn't torn up could you have it resurfaced, I'm not sure if that's saving you a lot of money over a new flywheel?  But considering your labor and the future use you'll get from a good clutch I would look at either surfacing or replacing the clutch, "while you were there".

Keep us posted on your decision and the results...

Since I have Rejex on hand I'll put the car on the lift and Rejex the wheels PDQ.  I think I'll also look into the Hawk HPS Fero

carbon brake pads.

Thanks to all that have replied...

O.E.,  

I've read where guys dump the vibration pads and are still waiting for the first squeal or chatter.  Would you leave them out, would you just replace the old ones, or replace with new?

Thanks,

O.E.,

Wow, you're the concours champ, I looked up your winning ways...  My last concour fling was a class win at Pebble Beach nearly 30 years ago.  Thanks for the information, I have Rejex on the shelf.  I'll look into the the Hawk brake pads.  I hate the dirty wheels...

Thanks for the reply,

I've got a 2003 C4S with Porsche P/N brake pads...  I can have brand new clean wheels and a 100 miles later the interior drum is coated in a nasty black dust from the brake pads.  I know if you get a harder pad then you can get squeally brake noises, and a harder pedal.

Does anyone have any solutions for this?  Is there any magic cleaners, I've used a lot of them, but they all seem to take some elbow grease.

Thanks,

Artie,  

I wonder if you took a small drift and tapped the end of the stud to maybe push the crest further up on the mounting studs where the nut would be happier.  If the nuts are just spinning then by tapping the studs upwards maybe the nuts would come off.  Have you looked up there to be sure that they're attached with a 10mm nut?  You never know, someone could have used a speed nut?

Can you drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt to use an extraction easy out?  At least since you just installed the bolt it should come back out fairly easily.  I guess you could remove the water pump so you could get at the broken bolt...  I've taken a small punch and a small hammer and rotated the bolt. However once you do that there's no turning back.  If you can get a right angle drill in there that would be my first choice.  If you do drill it be sure to use a center punch first, then start with a small drill.

Thanks,  I guess the question deserves further discussion...

Um, PSM may not like the 6% diff...

Could you switch off the PSM during an emergency, would that make the PSM happy?

I think the effect on the rear tires would be like running the car on a really big circular track so probably ok. Does it have traction control or PSM? 6% diff may have some effect on those systems. Not sure though.

Ahsai...  Thanks for the reply...  yes my car has PSM.  The spare has never been on the ground, but you never know so I appreciate your input.

I have a RWD car with a collapsable spare tire, my car came with 18" wheels (25" diameter) I now have 19" wheels (26.5" diameter), in an emergency could I run the spare tire without damaging the ring and pinion?

Thanks,

 

I looked on the owner's manual "capacities" page for the amount (lbs) of refrigerant (R134) that my 2003 996 C4S takes, couldn't find anything. Anyone know how much it is?  I think it's a tad over 2 lbs?

 

Thanks,

 

Refrigerant (R134A): 900 grams

 

Compressor Oil: 195+/-15 cc

 

Thanks for your help and prompt reply...

I looked on the owner's manual "capacities" page for the amount (lbs) of refrigerant (R134) that my 2003 996 C4S takes, couldn't find anything. Anyone know how much it is?  I think it's a tad over 2 lbs?

Thanks,

Marc,  nice ride... are those 18" or 19" wheels?  Or has the car been lowered?

Jeff,

My C4S is now a C2S (RWD) car, If the offset is correct and I go to 19" wheels for normal driving (no track use) are the doors going to fall off anytime soon?

Thanks,

Those are wide body wheels - and 19" wheels are not approved for use on 996 series cars.

Loren,

What makes the 19" wheel, "not approved for use on the 996 series cars"?  

Thanks,

Jeff,  thanks for your replies and help...  you make life easier for a lot of us want-a-bees...

Thanks for the reply... as it turns out I do want to remove the sway bar to have it powder coated, "while I was there".  So if I remove the plate and no. 5 bolt the arm should be supported?

Thanks,

I want to replace the front sway bar rubber bushings...  I read in Bentley's that it appears that you have to support the lower support arm by either having the wheel on the ground or raising the arm up with a floor jack before removing the support plate.  Can anyone tell me the ins and outs for doing this?

Thanks,

There shouldn't be any coolant on the floor at the front of your car, My C4 has "O" rings on the radiator hoses at the radiators, if you have the same "O" rings they can get hard and maybe let the coolant escape after you've shut down the car. I would first clean out the radiators and condensers, I probably got 2 cups of bugs, leaves and debris on mine. There's a good video somewhere on how to do that which includes the removing of the front bumper. That's easy, be helpful if you had an extra set of hands. Have you exercised the over flow valve on top of the expansion tank to know it's working?

There's a lot of plumbing in the water system, if you don't have one of the vacuum tools to use when filling the system, then I would get one, or borrow one. If you have a leak, then you might have air in the system. I assume that since you had a major service they replaced the coolant with the red/pink OAT coolant? Be sure your engine room blower fan is working...

I guess there's always the chance someone installed the wrong thermostat, I believe it should be around 180 degrees... I've read where the water pumps can go south at 60,000 miles, but usually it's the seals that go bad first. Maybe someone can chime in and say if the water pumps can go bad without having a tell tail leak?

Was your service done by a knowledgeable Porsche dealer or shop? Bottom line for me is that it seems to be a little hotter than it should be. I like you would not enjoy the car having to monitor the temp gauge every 30 seconds.

Good information... however in my case I have malfunction somewhere in the venting system. I've never had a problem in the past, just on the last fill up it said "no" to any gas.

What I've done since I don't know how to trouble shoot this, I'm going to take the car in to Jones Autowerks and let them look at it. However I needed to get some gas in the tank to get there, I removed the right front fender liner and removed this line which allowed me to put gas in the tank. I'll re-attach the line to drive the car. Interesting enough, the gas gauge is now working with the addition of gas, I think the calibration is off.

Once I know what is going on I'll post the results.

Here's a pix of the line that I removed.

Thanks for your reply...