creekman

I posted a request on the status of the LED wide body tail light project on 6Speedonline, but there were no replies. Does anyone here know if this is just a good idea

that will never happen?

Thanks,

I tried a 3/8" O.D. hose and wasn't able to get it any further down the fill pipe than the larger hose. I've showed a sample of the gas to several knowledgeable people and they both agreed

the gas wasn't that bad. It's not good, but since the gas isn't coming out I guess I'll just run the gas out ASAP.

Thanks Loren for your reply. I think you're saying that there's no way a siphon hose can get into the "saddle bags" of the tank. HOwever in my case the gas tank was full and I was only able to extract about 2 gallons. I'm going to try a smaller diameter hose to see if I can get further down into the tank.

I took a 3/8" I.D. hose down the fill pipe, I was only able to siphon about 2 gallons of gas, then it started to suck air. The hose wouldn't go down any further... I can't believe there's no way to drain the tank short of removing it.

I guess you could remove the battery and the top cover to the gas tank expose the fuel pump in the tank to get at the gas? Am I correct? Just seems like there should be an easier way...

My car been sitting for 7 months and the gas is smelling a little stinky. After about 5 months I filled the remainder of the gas tank with new gas and added Sta-Bil to the gas. The gas doesn't smell real bad, but definitely has an odor and a yellowish color. I don't know if the yellow color is because the gas is stale or from the

Sta-Bil?

Would you drain the gas tank, if so what is the easiest way to do that? Can you syphon most of the gas through the gas tank fill opening?

Thanks,

A siphon is about your only option, or some flame proof pumping system. Be careful with the siphon hose that is does not become caught on anything inside the tank or filler neck. The small amount of StaBil will not alter the color or smell of the gas,

Thanks for the reply... You make a good point about getting the hose caught in the tank filler pipe. I had a Chevy Blazer with a custom 40 gallon tank so I could fill my airplane. However at the time I didn't realize that each time I dropped the hose into the tank and pulled it out that I was chaffing the rubber hose until one day the gas filter became so clogged that the

engine quit. I think with your comment that the Sta-Bil doesn't change the color of the gas I better try and get the gas out.

My car been sitting for 7 months and the gas is smelling a little stinky. After about 5 months I filled the remainder of the gas tank with new gas and added Sta-Bil to the gas. The gas doesn't smell real bad, but definitely has an odor and a yellowish color. I don't know if the yellow color is because the gas is stale or from the

Sta-Bil?

Would you drain the gas tank, if so what is the easiest way to do that? Can you syphon most of the gas through the gas tank fill opening?

Thanks,

It is the plug which covers the hole where you insert the headlight removal tool.

Thanks Richard...

I was vacuuming my trunk, found this next to the spare tire. Anyone know where this rubber plug goes?

Thanks,

Personally while the spoiler has a definite function, I never thought it was attractive look when it is in the raised position, it spoils the nice lines of the car... I had other reasons for removing it. I blended the grill to the deck lid and added the small spoiler.

If anyone needs the articulating parts for the spoiler please contact me.

'04 C2. A/C seems to work but not exactly very cold on an 85 degree day here. Just not sure how cold it should get, is there a specification for this? Can I assume the system is similar to an Audi? Thx for any advise.

Wausau, cooling is a relative thing, however I'm guessing that your A/C system is not giving you it's best... I would first get a cheap digital thermometer and place it in your center vent.

Also you should know the outside ambient temp so you can converse with some accuracy what your A/C system is doing. Depending on the results, I would go to a good air conditioning shop and

have them put the gauges on your car to determine if you have freon. I would also remove your front bumper and clean the 2 A/C condensers. When I cleaned mine I got at least a cup full of

debris that was trapped between the radiator and the condenser. Do a search on this site for a great video that gives you step by step on how to complete the cleaning of the condensers.

Any update on availability of LED Tail Lights for 996 C4S (wide body)?

Loren,

Thanks for the reply. I've entered "rear seat delete" and "rear storage shelf" w/o any hits. What other search words would you recommend? I saw on the Pelican 911 site the RS storage shelf and access doors that are convexed, very nice... I imagine that it's a true DIY project which I'll end up doing.

Thanks,

Just wondering if anyone has deleted the rear seats and built a shelf with storage? I know on the 911 Pelican Parts forum that has been done.

Thanks,

I've often wonder why they put the rear seats in the car in the first place. They have no practical use, is it just a marketing ploy or?

Thanks Loren... What would we do without you!

Another thought, my "84" had a small overflow hose coming off the master cylinder. When using the pressure pot to bleed the brakes I sometimes would forget to pinch off/closed the hose, big mess on the floor. Does the 996 have an overflow hose from the master cylinder that you would need to pinch off?

Logray, Great article... I wouldn't have know to depress the brake pedal to bleed the slave cylinder. I'll have to go back to my Bentley's to see if I had missed that.

Thanks,

Loren,

I was going to read up on this since I need to bleed both the brakes and slave... Great question and answer, thanks...

+1 for Loren, plus there's a torque setting for those bolts that can be found in Bentley's. Also I would use blue Locktite on the bolt. I had the tensioner pulley bolt back out on my car and it bent the bolt and destroyed the pulley so proper torque and installation procedures are important. Or you could end up spending a night in Winslow, AZ...

I had a conversation yesterday with a knowledgable Porsche airconditioning specialist, he said that the evaporators for our car are not long lived. Does anyone have any information on the longevity of our evaporators? The reason I'm asking is that I have my engine out and plan on replacing the receiver/dryer and if it's prudent I would replace the evaporator at the same time.

Thanks,

I had a burnt rubber smell that I couldn't figure out until the serpentine fan, alternator belt came off. The pulley tensioner bolt back out causing the serpentine belt to be out of alignment, finally the bolt came out far enough and threw the belt. Naturally you can't see anything unless the air filter is removed...

I had a problem with my MaxJax lift not wanting to retract, I did the same thing, I bungee the release lever down. However in my case I had installed the diverter valve upside down. The way to tell is to be sure you have the diverter installed so you can see through the top ports where the 2 hoses attach. Also if one arm is not in sync with the other, then disconnect the hose from the lowest arm and hit the release lever until the 2nd arm reaches the same height as the lower arm.I installed 45 degree fittings on the post to hose connection which allows the hoses to lay closer to the floor. I read that tip some where, and I think it will save tripping over the hoses. One other thing that I did was to turn a bushing on my lathe to fit the 5 holes in the post base plate. The bushing had a 1/2" clearance for my rotor hammer bit. So rather than drilling one hole, moving the post, setting the anchor, then reinstalling the post each time for a new hole I was able to use the one bushing, drill all 5 holes with a 1/2" rotor hammer drill, then move off the post, finish drilling the 7/8" holes all in one operation. The holes were centered and it saved a lot of work.Also you want to check the reservoir tank after bleeding and filling the hoses, but only having the arms in the down position. I checked the oil level when the arms were 12" or so above the floor, then it appeared the reservoir needed filling, so I filled it... bad idea because when the arms came down I had hydraulic oil oooozing from the fill cap. I was unsure how thick my concrete slab was so I drilled a 1/2" hole under the center of the base just to be sure I could drill the recommended 5.5". If you get into trouble you can contact MaxJax, they sell an epoxy kit that will also fasten the anchors… BTW: Jason at MaxJax has been very helpful. Nice guy...Lastly, today I moved my garage door opener from the middle of the door to one side because it was going to impair my lifting height. I talked to the garage door company and they said you can do that. I moved the operator/motor and the door works just as well as it did before. I set my base plates at 130" measured from the back of the base plate. Here's the fitting I made that plugs into the receiver on the underside of the car. You have to be a little more exacting on locating the arms, but I know the arms/pads are not going to bend any sheet metal. To do this I cut down the pad extensions and turned the pins to a dome so if I was off a tad they'll find their way home. After this picture I turned some nylon washers that fit down over the domed pins.Lastly, lastly... 3 of my inner arms were really hard to slide in and out, in fact I had to take a single jack and pound on a piece of wood to get the arms to move in and out. Today I took the arms back off the base, retracted the arms as far in as they would go, then used a Sawzall with a fine metal cutting blade and cut the end of the weld that keeps the inner arm aligned with the outer arm. The lift should not have come that way, but as soon as I cut off 1/16" between the weld and the inner arm the inner arms moved freely. At first glance you might think there's a big glob of paint, but it's actually a weld protruding from the inner wall of the outer arm, rubbing on the outer wall of the inner arm.I hope all of this might be helpful to others...

My present tail lights (2003 C4S) have stress cracks in the lens, and the mounting tabs are either broke or cracked. Other than that the lights work fine... :-) If I change out the lights I was thinking of the LED light option, but it appears that none of the after market LED lights are compatible with the C4S (wide body)? Is that a fact?

Thanks,

Will the Spyder or Dectane LED tail lights fit a wide body C4S car?

Thanks,

I just completed a 3,000 mile road trip in my 996 C4S. All went well until the early morning on my return to Texas when the volt meter went down and the temp meter went up... I pulled off the road on to the shoulder at about 8:00 AM wondering where in God's name I was. Fortuanetly I had cell service and after calling around one tow truck company wanted more information than "about 265 miles West of Albuquerque". He asked if there was a mile marker post anywhere, the surfing Gods must have taken pity on me since there was one just 200' behind me. Anyway it was suggested that I call 911 which I did. 911 was very helpful, gave the names of 2 tow outfits in Winslow.

A young man came out with a late model diesel flat bed rig from Dalton Motors in Winslow which was about 10 miles back on I-40. Stratton the driver was very careful loading the car, we used the eye bolt that screws into the front bumper, Statton had a swipe card receivier on his smart phone for charge cards, charged me $84.00, I bet in the big city it would have been $284.00...

Any way after being flat bedded into the Winslow Chrysler dealer the young mech showed me the "belt deflection roller/pulley" bolt had backed out . In doing so the mounting bolt was bend and once the pulley got out of alignment it shed the serpentine belt which was undamaged. I called my friend at Truespeed Motorcars in Costa Mesa, CA for install information. Truespeed does a lot of Porsche sales and race car prep. Mark told me yes, you want to use "blue Lock-Tite" and torque to 34 ft/lbs. Unfortuanely before I could get to the mechanic at the dealership UPS for once had come through early so he had already had installed the pulley. He didn't use Lock-Tite and over torqued the bolt so I'll have to remove the bolt and redo it with the correct torque and Lock-Tite. However I had no regrets the people at the Chrysler dealership were excellent and fair.

I think the only reason the bolt backed out in the first place that maybe a previous owner or mechanic hadn't installed properly. The pulley hadn't given up, just the mounting bolt back out, bending the bolt so the pulley was not aligned with the serpentine belt. Fortunenatly I had shut down the engine right away so I didn't have to add any coolant.

I averaged 26.4 MPG at 70-80 MPH... If you haven't had a chance to make a long trip in your car, do it sometime... for me it made the trip memorable.

Here's a pix just before the belt departed...