creekman

I did remove the servo and arm, what year car and model did you perform this miracle on?  I'm wondering if the year or model has changed the way the mixing door is installed.  Believe me, there are no plugs, bushings that will come of their captive position without cracking the box halves...  Do you remember if the ends of the mixing door were attached to the plugs?  Were the plugs slotted, or clock to the plugs.  It appears to me that the plugs are permanently attached to the doors and the plugs rotate in the box halves.

I poked holes through what was left of the foam on the doors trying to muscle the door up and down.  No play that way...  So now I think to at least be no worst off is to clean the mixing door on the one accessible side and see if I can get a strip of duct tape to adhere.

I called Porsche of San Antonio they want 11 hrs. to R&R the dash at $165.00., plus a new box.  Probably a $2,000 repair.  I don't think so...  If I have to I can probably take the dash out myself, but like you say there's always that chance you won't get it back in without a glitch.

Thanks,

Mitch

I opened up my 2003 996 C4S per the tutorial but got to the "plugs" and there are none...  The door will not come out unless the two halves of the evaporator/heater box are split.  That's disappointing to get that far and come up short.

Any thoughts...

Thanks,

Mitch

More questions:

The foam that was spitting out of the vents, mostly on the left side was a gray material.  After exposing the mixing door through the heater core the foam covering on the door is a 'very' paper thin gold color.  That leaves me to wonder if the foam was even from the mixing door in the first place.  I think there are 2 different foams here...

Sure would be nice if there's anyone out there with more information than I have...
 

Mitch,

I've spent several hours trying to remove the 'plugs'.  It appears to me that there are no plugs.  The mixing door is attached to pivot sleeves and there is not a millimeter of up and down per the instructions.  When the door is moved the sleeves move the same amount.  What I see is the door top and bottom is attached to round stock and it turns in the housing. The mixing door was installed between the top and bottom halves of the housing so it's locked in the housing until the entire housing is removed.  That's what it looks like to me.

There are quite a few things that are different on a wide body car other than just the brakes and suspension. Maybe it's 2003 vs an earlier year model?   To get to this point and not get the door out will be a ball buster

Can anybody add to this...

Thanks,

Mitch 

Not positive, but I don't think so...  P/N's don't lie...  I replaced my radiators on a C4S and they're different than a narrow body car. Also replaced the fan which has different mounting points.

Mitch

Good idea, when I posted the reply I thought it was going to the original post.  Sorry about that...  I just thought bigger pictures would help.  I'm down to removing the mixing door, but I can't get the plugs out, or something is different.

How many people have used this thread to accomplish covering the doors?

Mitch

Dear CCMan,  Help me, could you be a little more specific, did I post to the wrong thread?  I had just about completed the post, did a spell check and the post evaporated.  Maybe it ended up on some unknown thread/link.

If you tell me the link I'll edit and remove...

Thanks

Mitch

Hmmm, I thought I posted this, made a correction and my post evaporated.  ^%##)^^@

Anyway, I'm into the removing the A/C-heater door.  I wouldn't be doing it, but my A/C is slow to cool so I hope this will fix the problem.

Question: Emmett says that the servo arm is under the console, does he mean forward of the console under the dash.  If that's the case it would appear

to me that you have to remove part of the radio stack?  

Update: To access the servo motor and arm you need to remove the foam pad that covers the area under the dash and forward from where the glove box ends.  There're 3 slotted plastic screws that are located on the rearward edge of the foam covering.  You need to be able to stand on your head for this.  So far I'm not sure I have the 7mm nut that removes the servo arm.  I've got to get my inspection mirror for a better look.  Getting close, no cigar...

Thanks,

Mitch

On 10/11/2013 at 11:46 PM, hi8ha said:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/121-fixed-my-lack-of-heat-problem-here-is-the-procedure/ Follow the link.

It's time-consuming.  I'm lost as to where to remove the servo arm.  Emmett says it's under the center console?  Do you mean it's under the dash forward of the center console?  I don't see any way to get there unless you start removing dash parts.  The tutorial says to remove the kick panel on the passenger side to expose the servo arm?  Can we clarify exactly where the servo arm is for my 996?

Thanks,

Mitch

These are not in order but could be added to the tutorial. 

Wow, if it is a worn out regulator that seems like a poor life cycle...

I have plugs all over the place that have broken keepers.  The plugs will stay engaged and probably less stressful than trying to get all the wires back in the new socket.  Porsche spec a bad plastic for this.  I have a '65' T-Bird and the rubber plugs are perfect after 50 years.   My gripe is that Porsche has a great car but misses on some of these smaller items, and they seem to keep doing the same thing expecting a different outcome.

Mitch

Several years ago I looked into replacing the plugs behind the dash for the 3 instrument clusters.  Each time I would remove the plug one of the keepers would break off.  I found a company that has these dash cluster plugs, but now I can't find the information.  I'm sure someone here knows where to look.  I've got one more place to look.  Sorry, I'm not more help...

Ronnie is correct there is a 5-minute (plus/minus)  delay after turning the key off and exiting the car.  So the central lock system off will not lock manually with the key?  I'm 'not' talking about the key fob, is that correct?

I found that you must open and shut the door to make the time delay for the lights to work.  If you reach in and turn the key to observe the dash lights, etc., then turn the key off without having opened and closed the door the lights will not time off.  Can someone verify that...

Mitch

Funny, the PCA types...  a couple of years ago I took the car into Porsche of San Antonio to have them look at my gas gauge on their diagnostic equipment.  I was standing at the parts counter so I could see through to the shop area when the tech drove the car in, naturally, with the V8 and a cam the car rumbled into the mechanic's stall.  Every mechanic came over to look, some were on the floor taking pictures.  I was happy I only had to pay the $140/hr and not for the lost time.

Just to clarify, the window raises and lowers to accommodate the opening and closing of the door, but when you ask the window to lower all the way down it stops short.  Do you have a Benley's Repair Book, I'm sure everything you wanted to know about removing the door panel and adjusting the limit switches will be found there.

Does the motor continue to run once the window stops?  If the motor stops then I'm guessing it's an adjustment on your limit switch.  I would think the answer is removing the door panel and not a computer problem.

Thanks, Shawn...   My DD is an '07' Escalade with 144,000 miles bought used.  Never have removed the spark plugs.  I've put 10' pieces of lumber inside, gently resting on the dash board. it's an all purpose vehicle.  However slightly thirsty, but as long as we have $2.00 gas who cares.  The downside is new ones are 90K, so even used ones are beyond my pocket book these days.

So you don't think the foam serves any purpose and blocking the door holes is just fine?  Oh, since it's just a car, you won't mind that I installed a LS3 V8 495 HP in my wide body Speed Yellow flyer.   I've got a good friend in Groveport, OH who is a world renown restorer of fiberglass  Porsches.

Does this mean you have to remove the heater core and break into the radiator system?  Or are we just lifting the heater core out of position?  If the factory used an open cell foam then why would you go back with a solid covering over the holes?  If the factory wanted a solid material why didn't they just install a solid door?  I'm thinking I would go back with a Polyurethane Open-Cell Foam Sheet.  

Can anyone tell me the approximate size of the door?  That way I can have the foam on hand when I take the car apart.  Any other comments on this...  Other than how stupid is this, I guess if Porsche can't get the IMS bearing right, why would they do any better with some cheesy foam?  Sorry, just had to vent...

Thanks,

Mitch

On 7/22/2008 at 10:37 AM, rsfeller said:

Note: My old link has a couple PDFs missing, the updated location is hosted at:

http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...6&Itemid=51

I reviewed my write-up to check on why it's not clear.

I believe you are asking how the flap comes out. All the hard work you are doing up top with the wipers and heater core is to remove the flap from the top. But as stated in the direcctions you do have to take the SERVERO ARM off under the dash. Everything is accurate in the write-up and when you start working it will all make sense.

* Removing cowl to access heater core access area.

* Removing windshield wipers, wiper arms and motor assembly.

* Removing braces and brackets blocking heater core.

* Removing heater core hoses and pulling unit straight up.

* Taking servo arm off and removing bottom plug.

* Dremel crown of door axis off for access to top plug

* Removing door/flap and all left over foam

* Sealing holes in door

* Reinstall was opposite of removal.

If you had the Durmetric OBD reader you might be able to erase the codes.  I wonder if removing the battery 

cable for a minute or so that it might reset the computer...

A shot in the dark, no pun intended...  what about removing the light housing and checking all the pin slots to be sure you're getting a full engagement of the socket.  Also be sure the light socket is rigidly in place in the fender housing.

DBJoe,

Thanks for the links, this problem goes back a long time.  I find it hard to believe that the A/C system is going to work the same way without the foam, as bad of a solution the foam is, it must have a reason for being there.  However, I really don't want to have to get into it if I don't have to.  However, it appears to me that my cooling has been affected so maybe the foam gods are calling me.

I have my car for sale so it needs to be done I guess... 

Thanks, I wish that was not the case and I wouldn't have to deal with it, but at least I know what the A/C is doing, or not doing.  I've hit the search button with just about every combination I can think of for info on getting to the A/C doors without success.  "How to remove the A/C doors", "Replacing the foam on the A/C doors", etc.  

I know this has been talked about so the information is here, please pass on any links that would be applicable...

Thanks,

Mitch

Joe,

I have done the same thing, but the A/C has a good charge and it works well, but not until you have the fan on high and finally it starts cooling.  So I thought there might be some connection between the foam and the slow cool...

Philip,

Thanks for the reply, when you decide on which foam you're going to use would you post your choice and the vendor who can supply it?  Is there a definite link that shows how to get to the A/C doors?  I bet the dealer would get $600-$1,000 to do that work?

Thanks,

Mitch