creekman

Creekman here:  I sold my motor with all the accessories with 65,000 miles for $7,000.  I tried to sell other parts, back seats, rear spoiler mechanism, engine room fans, etc. at give away prices without success.  

I wouldn't hinge your decision and project on what you'll get for the engine since you'll be a lot deeper into costs than what you'll get out of the Porsche engine, particularly with a 129K miles.

However if money isn't the lyinch pin to your project, go for it...  The car is breath taking to drive.  I believe Renegade has made improvements to "how to" on working out a lot of the electrical issues since I built mine. 

The MaxJax has 5 large bolts that screw into permanent anchors in the floor.  As long as you have a 4" slab you're good to go.  The feature is that you can remove the bolts and wheel the post out of the way when not in use.  The post has wheels so it can be moved around without much effort. However I've never moved mine.  I just park a little to the rear of the garage so the doors can swing full open without hitting the post.  The install is pretty easy, you'll need a rotorhammer for drilling holes in the concrete.

I've had my car up and down so many times I couldn't even count.  It's great for cleaning wheels, oil changes, removing the belly pans, etc.  I'll take more pixs and post.  Also the MaxJax dealer was really helpful, I had the need to replace some parts and they sent it out without any questions.  Nice people...

If anyone ends up installing this lift I can give you some good advise on the install, I came up with some short cuts on the install. If you enjoy working on your car $2,000 for a $30,000 plus car isn't a deal breaker.  I wouldn't leave home without it...

I'm not a paid employee, but just a happy customer... :-)

I finally bit the bullet and bought a MaxJax 2 post lift that fits under my 8' garage ceiling.  I sit on a BoneTail rolling chair and scoot around under the car.  The MaxJax lift is good for 6,000 lbs so I feel safe and I don't have to worry about getting a jack under the car and having to rely on jack stands.

I appreciate the cost of the lift is signficant, but your life is too.  I bought my MaxJax lift from Costco on sale, $1,900, free delivery.  You might ralionalize the cost by saving a couple hundred dollars an oil change at the dealer, plus have a lot more fun working on your car.

Some knowledgable soul should do a tech tip on how to release the 996 elelctrical connectors...  I can't tell you between not knowing how to make the release and brittle plastic I've broken my share.

GCP...  

After taking Julie's good advise you might take a hose and water to specific areas of the roof, windshield, door glass, etc. to see if you can duplicate the water accumulation under the seat.  Naturally you would start out with a dry floor. 

It appears that the water is coming in somewhere in the rear seat area, then draining down to the lower driver's seat pan.  Do you get the water build up when parked or driving?

I'm wondering if this guy has the complete code for the ECU...  I have another issue that if someone had the factory code might solve for me.  Would you post the link to this guy?

Have you driven your car to see if there is any difference in performance or gas mileage, I'm thinking you might get into more trouble than it's worth...

Thanks,

Is your driver's seat in or out of the car...  If the seat is out that will throw a air bag code.

Thanks...  Ya that's me, old cars and old fart... I hope John gets his A/C sorted out, it shouldn't be that hard.

Hi John,  

I'm no expert, but I'll tell you what little I know.  Your temp switch or dial is attached to a capallary tube which is embedded between the cooling fins of your condenser. 

The end of the tube is sensitive to temperature changes which turns on and off the compressor.  You can usually hear the compressor go on and off because the engine will change it's sound or sometimes RPM's.  This is the way my old "84" Porsche was connected, if the capallary tube isn't placed right you can get condenser freeze up. The older Porsches would freeze up if you asked for too much cold for too long

To get a better idea of what's going on with your A/C I would buy a cheap digital thermometer and place in the center vent.  You'll be able to watch the temps go up (compressor shuts down), then the compressor comes back on and the vent temps will go down.  It's a slow dance that you can watch.  

Also maybe the system is just low on Freon...  I would go to a local A/C shop and have them evacuate the system to be sure you don't have any leaks, then charge it.  I beleive your system will hold just a tad short of 2 lbs. of R34 freon.

How about some pictures of that amazing console...

Thanks,

I've used Lexol for years, but it always seems to leave a sticky finish.  I just tried Pinnacle's Leather clean and conditioner, then used Maguire's Leather creme after the cleaning.  The Pinnacile's leather clean was pricey, $49.00.

I think there's a tenecey to just keeping using the conditioners without first cleaning the leather.  The above process left a rich dull shine on my black leather.

Ahsai's point is a good one, these systems will trap air unless you use a vacuum tool to fill the system.  I recently changed some hoses, but the system still had a couple of gallons of coolant in the pipes and radiators.  I used the vac tool to fill the remaining coolant and still had problems with air.  Finally after several top offs the system got happy again.

I know it's been mentioned, your condensers and radiators are clean?  I'd change the expansion tank cap.  What was the outside air temps and was it stop and go traffic? Have you checked your oil for any signs of coolant?

Rob,

I just re-read your post, you're running your backup camera on wifi, mine is hard wired so my problem isn't the same as yours?

Interesting...  I have the same problem, I'm connected to the reverse light as well. It takes too long for the backup screen to light up.  However it seems like once the car has been in reverse the camera comes on much sooner if you put it in reverse a second time.  Is that a problem with not enough electrical input or it just takes that long for the camera to initalize and work?  

I've asked the tech people at Crutchfield and they didn't have an answer other than that is SOP...  If you're right that it needs better power I would be interested in what you find out.

Thanks,

I'm sure good advice...  thanks.

Has anyone tried this radiator temp reduction product that's being advertised on some of the car TV programs?

http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/Super-Coolant-c8.html

Julie,

I don't see either in your post or the estimate sheet what the miles are on your car.  That might help the members respond with more 

accuracy.  If missed it I apologize in advance.

In 2012 on my return from California to Texas I spent a non-scheduled night in Winslow,AZ.  The idler bolt backed out and the belt came off, red lights on the dash, pulled over to the shoulder and got the cell phone out.  I finally called 911, she put me in touch with a local tow service.  The service asked me where I was, I told him I didn't know. He suggested seeing if there was a "mile marker"anywhere, as luck would have it there was one 100' behind my car.  I was 12 miles West of Winslow.  A nice young man with a flat bed arrived within 30 minutes and took me and the car to the local Chrysler dealer.  One of the  mechanics couldn't wait to get his hands on the car, within 15 minutes he had the bent bolt and pulley in hand.  We overnighted the parts and I was on my way by 10:00 the next morning.  The dealer treated me fair and I was ready for a $300 tow bill from the towing company, it was $87.00.  If you're going to get stuck on the road, do it Winslow, AZ.  Fairness still reins in some places.

I believe the torque for the idler pulley is 50 ft/lb.  I would also recommend following Wayne's suggestion of using Loctite.  Google the Loctite data info.  Also I've called Locktite techs, they were very helpful recommending a specific product for a specific need.  Locktite has tons of products so it worth reviewing them for specific needs.

But keep reporting those breaks, Creekman!

We kinda like that about you! :thumbup:

Cheers! 

Hey... Y2K, just reporting like it is...  I hope I haven't cracked you up...  :-)

I'm more interested in knowing why you want to turn them off?

I installed about a year ago a JVC ( JVC KW-NT810HDT) nav, hands free phone, i-pod player, DVD, back up camera capabilities, etc.  I liked the unit because it had a bigger screen.  It's a touch screen, no knobs.  Bigger screen, but some times it's hard to touch the screen at the right place if you're at speed.  I would do the same thing again, it has a NavTec data base which isn't as good as the Garmin based units, at least in my mind.  When I go cross country I'll take a hand held Garmin and often it has better information than the JVC unit.  So far NavTec hasn't updated the datat base, only the firmware.

I bought the JVC unit from Crutchfield, they're good to work with and have great customer support.  The unit was $999.00.

Here's one thought when you re-install the tail light bodies, I think often that the mounting bracket under the tail light is not adjusted to the angle of the tail light body.  Also the tendancy is to over tighten the Torx screws.  Just tighten until the light body is stabilzed, it's not going anywhere...  Also the tail light lens will crack, nearly looks like a factory line, but I think that is another reason why you can torque the tail light body by having the mounting bracket out of alignment and over tightening...

No question that the tail light housing mounting tabs are under engineered...  I can't begin to know how many plastic connections that I've broken working on the car. Porsche should do better on this...

I've installed a GT2 bumper on my car, it protrudes further out and has 7/8" less ground clearance.  My "84" 911 had structural frame parts under the front of the car that allowed for mounting skid plates, but there's nothing there on the 996.  Has anyone come up with a solution to go up and down steep driveways without damaging the chin spoiler?

Skid plates or an airbag system that would allow the raising of the car.  Never hurts to ask, you never know where the next great idea will come from.

Thanks,