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horizontally-opposed
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Spaces were correctly installed, indexed to the brads. Car sat down a little in the rear over night (or back and forth to the shop, a short trip), but was still way too high in back. After a little head-scratching this morning, we loosened the bolts at the lower control arms and hub carriers while the car was on the lift, then set it down on scales (for a little extra room to work with) and retightened them. Bingo. We had tightened everything up with the car at full droop, which loaded up the bushings. Now the car is sitting just like a Euro M030 should. Took it over to the alignment shop and it came right into specs. Thanks for responding joee! My first impressions are nothing ground-breaking. The handling is tauter and more secure/more "planted" (need to take the car for a real run to find out more) while the ride quality is a fine compromise, though definitely less compliant. Short/sharp bumps are definitely more noticeable and handled less well by the suspension, but high speed lumps (such as on the freeway) are actually better, with a little less "wallow," though it's not like the old setup was exactly "wallowy." Frankly, I have driven PSS9 cars that ride better than this setup, but I like the fact I've stayed with factory parts and whatever wisdom Weissach gained in their extensive testing to arrive at this setup. Overall, very pleased. pete
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I just checked the spring colors and came up with red/yellow up front (seemingly correct for RoW M030) and red/red in the rear (seemingly correct for RoW M030). So the springs appear to be dead on for my car, a 1999 Boxster 2.5 manual. Thoughts? pete
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Front sat down nearly an inch (as it should) but the rear is either just as high as it was or even higher...by between 1/4 and 3/8 of an inch. :unsure: Any ideas of what could cause this? I was working with a well-regarded pro shop today (I'll leave them nameless for obvious reasons) and they are as baffled as I am about it, having done several of these conversions. We'll go back at it tomorrow, but I would surely appreciate any thoughts of things to look at. :help: The rear looks like it needs to come down about an inch to even get back into the ballpark, and this with parts all supplied as a kit (new) from Gert — so the source is good, too. Installed new upper strut mounts (superceded by a 997 part number) front and rear. Wondering if these could be indexed wrong or is there anything else you could install incorrectly that could make the rear end of a 986 sit so high...? On my way over to the garage with a flashlight to check the spring colors in the rear.... Thanks!!! pete
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High-Mileage 2.5s...
horizontally-opposed replied to horizontally-opposed's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I think it will be less than 50 percent. I knew guys who had to change their engines few times. if you want your enigne to last long you are gona have to drive ur porsche like any normal car. no high speed runs no over taking. most 2.5 engines start knocking after 80k-140k. Wow...THAT'S a pretty grim prediction. Anyone else? Thanks, pete -
Wondering how many of you have/have heard of high-mileage 986 2.5s. What's the highest mileage on members' cars with original engines? What seems to be the consensus on percentage of cars/engines that will last to 100,000, 150,000, and 200,000 miles? Is anyone here even near the upper numbers? How does the car hold up, esp. compared to older 1970s and 1980s Porsches? For those who HAVE lost engines, were there any tip-offs to impending doom besides excessive smoking? Vibrations? I know it's all crystal-ball stuff here to some extent, but I'd love to get your opinions on this matter. Thanks! :cheers: pete
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M030: A Comprehensive Write-Up
horizontally-opposed replied to insite's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Thanks for taking the time to write this up. :cheers: Any chance you could post some before and after pictures of the car to see the ride height change. Side views would be ideal, but anything would be helpful! Thanks again for a great write-up. pete