WARDHOG

Just wondering where is a good place to purchase brake pads on my 2003 C4S? Don't want to pay dealer prices for them and would like OEM if possible. Can you recommend a place?

TIA!

WARDHOG

Hi,

I'm going to change my plugs but, I'm having a hard time trying to figure out the right numbers and what is interchangeable from Beru to the ROW. Seems to me Beru plugs are hard to find to order on the net and would like to find them or something comparable. Don't want to go thru the dealer because they always try to jack me up on prices. Can you help?

TIA

WARDHOG

The 0w40 would seem to be too light a weight for the average summer temps here. Would 5w50 be a better choice. I don't have the car yet, but am curious as to what more experienced people would suggest. I have read on this forum that the light weight oil and high temps will contribute to RMS leaks.

Thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

0w40 is the wrong choice and 5w50 is better, but I would recommend 15W50 in your neck of the woods.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I would stick with only what Porsche recommends. :wrench:

Has anyone put run flat tires on their Boxster?

If so, did you add remote air pressure gauges too?

   Just curious as I had a flat on one of my rear tires

recently and couldn't feel it. I was driving on surface

streets at the time (30mph or less). A guy next to me

at a light told me I had a flat. Glad I wasn't on the

freeway. Anyway, I must have driven on it a few

blocks like that cause I had some side wall damage

and will need to replace the tire. (Glad I have a 01S

with a real spare tire). Anyway, If I had known in

time, I could have stopped before I damaged the

tire.

   I have 18 iinch wheels and checked Tire Rack, but

none were listed for our size.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So to hear about your dilemma but, that's part of owning any car. Now as far as all of what you mentioned about run flats and tire pressure monitors, I would not get either. Porsche does not recommend either and the T/P monitor system can be more of a headache than what it's worth. Talking about false readings and actual sensor malfunction such as the the monitors breaking loose inside the tires and that means problems. Run flats would be nice if Porsche would say they're acceptable and not alter the handling characteristics of the car. Just my two cents worth. <_<

I would set my radio (CDR-23) bass and treble settings for the FM/AM/CD and every few days or so it would revert back to the factory settings.  I've had the radio changed 4 times already and even the amplifier changed but the problem still persists.  I've already spoken to the service manager and 1-800-PORSCHE and all they suggest is to replace the radio and/or amplifier. 

There must be another solution, I can't be THAT unlucky as to get 4 defective radios.  Could there be another problem?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I vaguely remember about reading something about the drivers memory setting and having the AP function turned on. Check the manual on this. :unsure:

For those interested in who is selling the latest high quality/detergent spec (not highest octane) gasolines, check the following site:

www.toptiergas.com

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks, been using Chevron for years. :thumbup:

I used Dental Floss. Just put behind letters and using a sawing motion while pulling. Took me a total of three minuets along with residue clean up. :drive:

Brake dust?  Results?

I use Meguire's NXT (identical to Rejex) and love it.  I just wipe down the wheels and the dirt and dust just wipes right off!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Meguiar's NXT is nothing like Rejex. Rejex has to be put on within certain temperature range and kept out of the elements for about twelve hours or longer in order for it to cure and bond to the surface. The surface also has to be totally cleaned of any dirt and wax before use. Once it's on, it works for months between applications. Good stuff.

I have almost 21K on my 03 and it still sucks down oil. If you take it on a long road trip, it stops sucking down oil for awhile. I guess driving short distances seems to cause the high oil consumption. I took mine in to the dealer to have it checked and had to bring it every week to have them check the oil level and mileage to verify the amount of oil consumption for about four weeks. The rule of thumb is, if you car uses a quart every 600 miles or less, they'll get serious with it because you have a problem. Mine was around 750 miles. Just keep an eye on it and keep plenty of oil in stock. :(

Yep, got that nice ricey look about them. Will those nice looking ricey lights fit on a Honda S2000 too? They would only look good on a Silver car and not any other. :D :rolleyes:

I was merginging into high speed traffic today and was hitting the throttle pretty hard all the way up to fourth and when I went into fourth, my RPMs would not go past 3500 even flooring the pedal. I backed off the throttle and slipped it into neutral and revved it up if few times with no problem and slipped it back into fourth and had the samething happen. I then down shifted to third and so on and it seemed normal even after blipping the throttle in between each gear. What do think that was or is. Haven't had a chance to try and duplicate it again and I'm kind of leary on doing it again. Could this been an Egas problem, clutch or transmission that caused what happened? Would like some thoughts.

TIA! :huh:

The American Petroleum Institute has a classification CF for diesel engines. I just purchased some Royal Purple 10W40 for summer fill (manual indicates 10W40 for anything synthetic and ambient temps over 50 degrees F).

I noticed that the manual also indicates not to put anything in the crankcase that is not API SL rated or better.

Will it harm the engine to run it with the Royal Purple 10W40 API CF rated oil in the case? Please advise and many thanks in advance.  :oops:

I own an '01 Box non-S with manual transmission. It is no longer under warranty but a warranty RMS repair is still under warranty.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I would not put in my Porsche because it's not approved by Porsche and 15W40 is to high. Only max allowed from what I've read is 5W40. It also states that "Only non-seasonal light running oils are now approved by Porsche." I/A/W Porsche 1701 Technical Information sheet located in the Boxster 986 TSB section on this website. But since you no longer have a warranty, I would probably follow what Porsche says because they are generally right about the engines they build except a few minor things such as loose cylinder sleeves and RMS leaks. :eek: Here is on interesting website about oil. Bob the oil guy Also here's Royal Purple oils site too; Royal Purple Oils

I'm going on two great years of ownership on my 2003 C4S and I have kept up on the maintenance but, what would you recommend as far as maint to be performed on it? My car has a tad bit over 20K miles on the speedo and I think I read about flushing radiators with new a/f and changing out brake fluid too. Now I've looked somewhat at the scheduled mile maint list and I'm a little confused on what's suppose to be done. What do you suggest to be done or do I need to accomplish anything and just drive it. I've changed my oil recently so, thats done. Any ideas, Loren or whoever would like to answer?

TIA! :P

OK, I'm a newbie to Porsche so excuse my ignorance (just bought a 01 TT).

I've been researching exhausts and I noticed alot of threads discuss the pros and cons of PSE (Porsch Sport Exhaust ?!!).  How does this exhaust system compare to the stock 996TT?

Is there alot of HP to gain in upgrading the cats and exhaust on a 2001 Turbo?

Thanks,

Charles.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I believe PSE are for NA engines only. :(

I needed to top off my antifreeze in my 2000 Boxster, and when I went to the Porsche dealer to purchase some, he said I had two options...buy Porsche antifreeze in a 1 litre bottle for $11.50 or buy a gallon of VW/Audi antifreeze (G012A8FA4) for $23.05. So I opted for the gallon which was nearly 4 times the amount for a little more than double the price. I topped the Boxster off but I did notice that the VW/Audi product is pink, while my OEM Porsche antifreeze was/is green. I didn't think it would matter. However, since then, checking with a few shops, they tell me I should never combine antifreeze of different colors, even though the formulations might be the same. Has anybody had any experience with this or could shed some light on this. If they are not compatible, I'd like to bring my car back and have Porsche flush my system and put in the right coolant. On the other hand, if there is no issue with combining the two, I'd hate to make a big stink for nothing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Didn't you read our replies to your other post? <_< The Porsche anti-freeze is in a concentrated form that comes in the pint bottle. You should be alright for now.

I need to top off my 2000 Boxster with antifreeze and the manual says not to mix other manufacturer's antifreeze with Porsche brand. Any need to heed that warning, or are they all pretty much the same? I know it's a lifetime quality anti-freeze, but I don't really want to pay the dealer price. Is there anywhere else to buy  Porsche brand if that is the only one that I should be using? Thx.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It only cost just a few bucks for the Porsche anti-freeze that comes in a pint bottle. It's concentrated and you can mix as much as you need with distilled water to top off. It's better than having a big anti-freeze bottle taking up garage space. :clapping:

Anyone have the Parts no. for the left & right front grilles?

And also both grilles in the rear?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It would help if you put the year and model number.

Isn't it suppose to be used with Bluetoothe devices thous, illuminating the phone bracket and other hardware?

It slides into a recess in the body so you should be able to lift and wiggle it out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Isn't the spare tire factored into the crash barrier protection? That's what I've heard and that's why I have left it in my car. :o

What if and what would be the outtake of someone putting in about maybe 32 fluid onces of anti freeze in each tire and then airing them up to the correct tire pressure? How would a car handle and would it keep the temperature cooler in summer and maybe prevent flat spots in the cold after extended parking? Has anyone tried it or heard of something like that being done before. What do you think? :rolleyes:

I  was wondering if there would be any adverse affects of having a GT2 bumper on a C4S (05') when driving at high speeds? with no other body mods, like a wing.

Thanks

Jeff

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You know, one thing I would change on the design on my or any C4S is the rear bumper. I don't like the fake Turbo louvers on the bumper. Now I don't have a picture handy of the GT2 bumper, but I imagine that's why you want to change the bumper out. It should be just as wide with no louvers and shouldn't effect the aero dynamics of the car. Then again, the louvers do have openings in them. There could be a reason for those besides looks. <_<

Check your PM inbox! :unsure:

My advice is for you to read the owner's manual and follow it to the "T". Many people will tell you how they did their break-ins and that's all good but, it's your car and your wallet. You can't go wrong by following the book. :P

Wrong engine? Wrong headers?

Ok so I did the gauge face conversion from the boxster s to my boxster. And I got the oem rings from the boxster s gauge face too. I had to take the needles off and I put them back on, NONE OF THE NEEDLES WORK. After fidgeting for 2 hrs, I need help. What should I do? Everything else works just fine. My **** needles don't work. How can I fix this and have them read accurately? I  need to correct my needles to make then work. THey are not even moving. Thanks in advance. Frank

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Have you checked the fuse? You might have blown the fuse.