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Hilux2400

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Posts posted by Hilux2400

  1. It's OK  as I think I have the info.  There are three bolt size.  The settings should be as follows: 

     

    10mm bolts that hold the "boomerang" plate and sway bar bush - 48 ft.lbs

    12mm bolt that holds the opposite end of the "boomerang" plate - 74 ft.lbs.

    14mm bolt on which the "boomerang" plate can pivot - 118 ft.lbs

     

    I have found these descriptions and settings hard to understand from various print outs.  Like another poster who refers to Toyota manuals where the setting is given on a diagram which shows the part.  

     

    H

  2. 911 996 3.6  2003

     

    This is a question about the front sway bar bushes.  They squeak like blazes and need to get some rubber grease in there to help the bar move easily.

     

    Could anyone please help with the torque setting for the three bolts that secure the "boomerang" plate and also the pivot bolt that holds the inner link on the tie bar?  I think I might have to undo this pivot bolt about one turn so that I can rotate the boomerang plate to gain access to the sway bar bush holder.  

     

    Thanks for reading.

     

    H

  3. Thanks for your replies. It was done by a Porsche Indie, he charged me £250, apparently they hold a lot of oil/fluid. I have no idea what the temp was when he did it but I would hope it was correct. Hilux, you've described it exactlyso it's obviously pretty normal.

    The filter and gasket are about £100 and as you say the oil is expensive.  Thanks for your reply.

  4. My 996 3.6 C2 has a tip box.  It's done 61K.  When cold it holds a lower gear longer than expected, but this clear after a few miles, after which it works normally. However, the change to first gear is a bit clunky and I hope this is resolved with an oil and filter change soon. 

     

    I had a Merc with a ZF box which had similar slow characteristics when cold. 

     

    As a matter of interest, how much did your oil change cost and where did you have it done?  I assume that included a new filter? 

  5. I need to change the turn signal lamp. When I insert the tool to release the assembly, it will not turn. Any ideas as to why the mechanism won't turn, and how to remove the assembly?

    Are you turning it the right way?  If you use a T bar with a 5mm socket the top of the wrench turns towards the back of the car.  There are quite a few videos on YouTube and here's one:

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPmju6yPJu8

     

    If you do use a socket, tape the socket to the driver bar so that it doesn't fall out inside.   

  6.  

    I don't agree with the point made by Dporto regarding the draining functions. The front ones can easily be maintained as they are almost visible, but on my Coupe they had not been cleared before I had it.

     

    Regarding the back drains that come out behind the liner in the wheel arch, these take some time to gain access and I would be surprised if they get looked at too often if at all.  When I pulled out my rear wheel arch liner it was full of road muck and had never been cleaned and drain outlet was blocked solid. This must be the case on many cars.   

     

    Despite what you say about garaging there are occasions when all cars get caught out in a downpour and that would fill the front or back cavities pretty quickly if the drains are blocked.

     

    While you certainly have a right to your own opinion, you should go back and read my point... The fact is that the drains function properly if/when maintained properly. The fact that your drains were clogged with road muck simply means they weren't maintained - nothing more nothing less. You even go so far as to say "but on my Coupe they had not been cleared before I had it." - How is this poor design or engineering? "there are occasions when all cars get caught out in a downpour and that would fill the front or back cavities pretty quickly if the drains are blocked." - Don't let the drains get blocked... :lightbulb:

     

    In the maintenance schedules for my 996 (annual, minor & major) there is not one item that refers to checking for clear cavity drainage.  I would have thought that if Porsche thought these items would be problems they would have been included on the schedules. 

     

    I do it as a I have been caught out before on a Golf which had blocked bulkhead drains.

  7. I don't agree with the point made by Dporto regarding the draining functions. The front ones can easily be maintained as they are almost visible, but on my Coupe they had not been cleared before I had it.

     

    Regarding the back drains that come out behind the liner in the wheel arch, these take some time to gain access and I would be surprised if they get looked at too often if at all.  When I pulled out my rear wheel arch liner it was full of road muck and had never been cleaned and drain outlet was blocked solid. This must be the case on many cars.   

     

    Despite what you say about garaging there are occasions when all cars get caught out in a downpour and that would fill the front or back cavities pretty quickly if the drains are blocked.

  8. Hi, I have a 2006 997 C4S. It had the common floppy interior door handle issue, so I ordered a new door axle pivot mechanism. When it arrived, we determined it was the "updated" part, which requires an updated cable as well. Until we received the new style cable, we finagled a way to make them compatible with each other - or so I thought. To make a long story short, once I locked the car, the door will not open (after unlocking), from inside or out. Whether on the fob, or with the key in the door, you can attempt to unlock, and hear the lock mechanism functioning - and the window still drops the 1" or so, but no door open. Through all this, I've gotten fairly adept at removing the door panel, so I've done the best I can again, with the door closed, but of course the panel will not come all the way off. I can't seem to see or wiggle anything in there to make a difference. I just want to get the door open, so I can change the lock bowden cable, etc. Does anyone have any ideas how I can just open the door? Or will a locksmith be able to get it open for me? Thank you in advance, any input is GREATLY appreciated!!  

    Did you manage to solve this problem?  If you have, it would be useful to know how you did it.

     

    H

  9. You can go to the ZF web site and it will tell you which fluid.  I think the 5 speed box, which is common to many cars, takes ZF Lifeguard 5.  ZF is quite specific about this. However, there are probably alternatives available.  

     

    Here's the link:

     

    http://www.zf.com/corporate/en_de/aftermarket/spare_parts/transmissions_spare_parts/transmissions.html

     

    and here:

     

    http://www.zf.com/global/media/en_zf/lubricantslists/TE-ML_11.pdf

     

    Was the fluid in sealed containers?

     

    Also it's not just a case of pulling the plug and then filling it up again, as the box has to be topped up when it reaches a certain temperature (85 to 100 deg C) as fluid is drawn from the sump into the workings of the transmission.  It takes about 9 litres of fluid to fill it.  

     

    Also if it wasn't emptied properly you may have a mix of old fluid and new fluid. 

  10. 911 996 2003 Coupe

     

    Hello

     

    I'm trying to figure out how to remove the plastic trim cover on the sill at entry to the vehicle.  I know how to remove the inner sill with the trunk switches, but I am foxed by the outer sill cover.  I have removed the Carrera name plate, but it does not conceal any fixings. 

     

    The sill cover seems to be firmly stuck down.  I can't even get a wedge under the edge to lift a corner. 

     

    I have looked through the workshop manual and can't find any info on this cover. 

     

    Any guidance would be helpful.

     

    Thanks for reading.

     

    H

  11. Having a Porsche is great for physical mobility, dexterity and body strength.  It has given me a great deal of pleasure and a great deal of exercise in the bending, crawling and twisting way of doing things.  I have had far more benefit in this way from my Porsche than from either of my Toyotas.  Think how lucky you are to have a Porsche it will help you stay fit.

  12. Although Pentosin ATF seems to be a frequently used fluid I notice that when looking at the ZF website that for the 5 speed box, ZF recommends  ZF Lifeguard Fluid 5 and ZF Lifeguard 6 for the 6 speed box.  Is there any preference on choice of fluid. 

     

    It is also of interest that ZF recommends a transmission oil change every 80 to 120KM or after 8 years at the latest.

     

    http://www.zf.com/global/media/medien_mastersite/products_services/service_information/sitematrix/transmission/cars_4/englisch_3/modelluebergreifend_1/ZP_SI_Oelwechselkit_EN.pdf      

  13. Hello

     

    I suspect I might have a coolant leak from the 3 way connector below the expansion tank as there is a pink trace from antifreeze.  However, It could be that the worm drive clip on the small diameter tube needs tightening and I'll do that tomorrow.

     

    I did notice, on a thread I cannot find, that someone has replaced this three way joint with a normal copper plumbing fitting, which seems a sensible option.  Does anyone know the internal bore of the hoses, before I take it apart?  It looks like 25mm straight through and 8mm for the small "T" offset.   

     

    Thanks for reading - pic attached.

     

    H

    post-86549-0-23184100-1461869110_thumb.j

  14. Listen don't know who you are with the last help ... but if you going to give help on this website and to gain respect ... you will not get it in that way ... so on this occasion ... your advice is not helpful ...

    It's OK don't be concerned no offence taken, but as JFP said sometimes really simple things can cause problems.  I didn't know the car had the fault before the oil change as you didn't say, hence my assumption that the two were linked. Some people have never put oil in a car.  

  15. Now I also noticed it looks like the scored area was ground by one of the four fat pins on the caliper that guide the pads. Even if you ran the pads down to bare backingplate, those pins should not touch the rotor. It's almost like the caliper itself is loose and not tightened properly to the wheel carrier. Or the rotor was loose from the carrier.

    Very strange scoring.

    You can see the four guiding pins inside the calipers in these photos http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?cPath=299&products_id=6811

    Ahsai's observation might be right. If the rotor is very thin and the outer pistons are stuck, the rotor may be deflecting under braking. The rotors have a minimum thickness requirement. They are easy to replace. Just make sure you back of the parking brake adjuster so that the rotor comes off easily.

  16. Is it cranking at normal speed, or is it a slow turnover?  The battery is 12v but when cranking its voltage drops because of load. If the voltage drops below a certain point there is insufficient power remaining to deliver a spark.  Before you spend any more on big stuff, do a few basic things:

     

    Is your battery in good nick?

     

    Is the starter motor drawing too much current and leaving nothing for the essentials of a spark and fuel delivery?

     

    Is there a good earth between the battery and the body and between the engine and the body?

     

    Is there a good +ve connection between the battery and the starter solenoid post. 

     

    I was surprised when I checked the engine earth strap on my 996, just how bad an earth was available.  This is quite a simple job, but best done with the back wheel off.    

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