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Hilux2400

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Hilux2400 last won the day on August 27

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About Hilux2400

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    Hereford UK
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    Carrera 911/996 Tiptronic

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  1. I replaced my oil filler tube a few years back when the car was about 10 years old.
  2. I had a similar problem many years back with a turbo diesel engine on a different vehicle. When cold it would always crank, but when hot on occasions it was absolutely dead. Did all the usual on earth straps, battery and its connections and starter motor. I eventually found the problem. It was the solenoid spade connector on the starter motor. When hot the female part of the spade connector was expanding and losing its "clench" on the male spade. As a result there was insufficient connectivity to energise the solenoid. The problem was solved by closing the female connector with a pliers. The problem never re-occurred. Glad you solved your problem, but the source was not dissimilar to mine.
  3. "Coolant" looks pretty messy. As Wizard says you need to be returning things to the point of sale and starting to put things in writing. You might even want to have it transported back to the garage on a trailer so that you are not accused of causing further damage, having now found a coolant problem. This is a bit late in the process, but when I buy from a trader I always pay a deposit of at least £100 with my credit card and the remainder by other means. I do this to get the consumer protection for purchases over £100 and under £30K. Just to let you know that for my 911/006 after a few oil changes and fewer short winter runs, I now hardly get any emulsion in the oil filler tube.
  4. Mine's a 996 3.6L from 2003. If it's any consolation to you, soon after buying mine in 2012 with a mileage of just 40K within a few weeks I had coolant coming out in the same area. It was caused by a fractured alloy return pipe. There was also coolant at the top of the reservoir, in the well, just like yours as one of the screws holding the release valve had corroded. I replaced the coolant reservoir and at the same time the air oil separator and the oil filler tube. Also the small bore alloy return tube which I sleeved in plastic pipe to avoid the problem re-occurring. Before you start pulling the thing apart you need to find the source of the leak. When it's cooled down top up the coolant. Get the back up on blocks and see if you have a leak and find it's source. It would help to pressurise the cooling system slightly, but don't overdo it. Are you sure that the oil in the reservoir well is from coolant? It's not just oil that has been spilled here and mixed with overflowing coolant? Is there water in the sump? Could the oil in the spillage have come from coolant washing oil off the outside of the engine on its way down? I attach some pics of the fractured coolant pipe, examples of moisture in the filler cap after short winter journeys, and coolant leaking from the coolant valve cap.
  5. We have a new pound coin now with 12 sides. The old one is being phased out, but the new one still has the Queen's head. There are too many forgeries of the old coin in circulation. I didn't loosen the light fixing as this can only be done once the engine cover is opened. You can get to this wire without making the gap wider, but the risk of damaging the bodywork is greater. As DBJoe996 said put some tape on the bumper before you start. Then push in the wedge to open up the gap slightly. The plastic wedge is a kitchen fitter's wedge used to level up kitchen fittings. But you could use a timber wedge or make one from layers of stiff cardboard. The hook is made from a wire coat hanger, but just take the burrs off the cut edge of the hook to reduce the chance of scratching the paintwork. When you have got the wire out, before pulling it press down on the lid to take the tension out of the catch. Once you have the lid open, if you want you can remove the rear light cluster before putting the wire back. Here's a link to a YouTube video. Don't drop the set screw into the engine compartment! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1PuWKogbkM
  6. Here are a few pics to help. I also did a tutorial on it. One picture has the light cluster removed to show the cable.
  7. This is always a worry when you have a car with only one door that can be opened with a key. As the owner is now faced with desperate measures to gain entry and the locked barrel seems to be broken are there any other means of entry aside from breaking a window? Probably the least messy route is to get the remote re-programmed. Surely, if it opens the "frunk" then that will also open the doors. It does on mine and then automatically re-locks the doors after the "frunk" is closed if the doors are not opened within a few minutes. .
  8. Great news - now that you have opened it try looking for the wire. You never know when you might need it.
  9. Check the +ve lead as well - you don't want that to bounce off as it could cause other problems such as voltage spikes.
  10. On a UK car that's under the left side back light pod when looking at the car from the back.
  11. Mine's a 996/2003 model. I would have thought the Boxster had a similar wire as there must be an emergency entry route somehow.. Try looking under the rear light pod with a torch, having moved it away from the rear valance with a wedge. Put some tape on the body work to avoid damage. Loren says it's in the rear fender well of the Boxster. That would mean taking off a wheel and the plastic shroud. That's not too difficult. The front cable is best located, to start with, by removing a headlight pod. It's easier than pushing back the rubber shroud in front of the rad. When you have located the cable, it can be extended to a more convenient spot. The headlight pod is easy to remove and replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPmju6yPJu8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2b7rplaw2E
  12. I did this tutorial some time back for a 996, showing how to open the engine lid using the emergency wire. It might help you. https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/
  13. Glad you solved the brake pulling problem. When bleeding I prefer to use a vacuum bleeder to drag the fluid through and out. They are not expensive - about £30 - but you need a compressed air supply to operate it. I used to bleed the brakes using your method of pressing the pedal to the floor and cracking the nipple open, or using a non-return valve on the open nipple . However, this method means that you push the M/C piston down beyond its position of normal travel. If there's any junk or bore scoring down the end of the M/C bore it could damage the M/C piston seal.
  14. Hi CC The link I posted was for a Porsche vid on YouTube showing the "window down function" when the open button is held down on the 996 key fob. Here it is again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc0ssSwpcUU&t=3s
  15. I have had a problem with my key fob not working in certain locations and have had to put the key in the lock to both open and close the vehicle . I put this down to jamming from a higher intensity signal nearby. This hasn't happened frequently. You might want to try the electronic signal somewhere else to make sure it's not some extraneous fault at your current location. I have to say that in comparison with a Toyota key fob, which seems bomb proof, the Porsche fob has had a few wobblies, but not too many. Window down feature
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