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Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. I replaced my oil filler tube a few years back when the car was about 10 years old.
  2. I had a similar problem many years back with a turbo diesel engine on a different vehicle. When cold it would always crank, but when hot on occasions it was absolutely dead. Did all the usual on earth straps, battery and its connections and starter motor. I eventually found the problem. It was the solenoid spade connector on the starter motor. When hot the female part of the spade connector was expanding and losing its "clench" on the male spade. As a result there was insufficient connectivity to energise the solenoid. The problem was solved by closing the female connector with a pliers. The problem never re-occurred. Glad you solved your problem, but the source was not dissimilar to mine.
  3. "Coolant" looks pretty messy. As Wizard says you need to be returning things to the point of sale and starting to put things in writing. You might even want to have it transported back to the garage on a trailer so that you are not accused of causing further damage, having now found a coolant problem. This is a bit late in the process, but when I buy from a trader I always pay a deposit of at least £100 with my credit card and the remainder by other means. I do this to get the consumer protection for purchases over £100 and under £30K. Just to let you know that for my 911/006 after a few oil changes and fewer short winter runs, I now hardly get any emulsion in the oil filler tube.
  4. Mine's a 996 3.6L from 2003. If it's any consolation to you, soon after buying mine in 2012 with a mileage of just 40K within a few weeks I had coolant coming out in the same area. It was caused by a fractured alloy return pipe. There was also coolant at the top of the reservoir, in the well, just like yours as one of the screws holding the release valve had corroded. I replaced the coolant reservoir and at the same time the air oil separator and the oil filler tube. Also the small bore alloy return tube which I sleeved in plastic pipe to avoid the problem re-occurring. Before you start pulling the thing apart you need to find the source of the leak. When it's cooled down top up the coolant. Get the back up on blocks and see if you have a leak and find it's source. It would help to pressurise the cooling system slightly, but don't overdo it. Are you sure that the oil in the reservoir well is from coolant? It's not just oil that has been spilled here and mixed with overflowing coolant? Is there water in the sump? Could the oil in the spillage have come from coolant washing oil off the outside of the engine on its way down? I attach some pics of the fractured coolant pipe, examples of moisture in the filler cap after short winter journeys, and coolant leaking from the coolant valve cap.
  5. We have a new pound coin now with 12 sides. The old one is being phased out, but the new one still has the Queen's head. There are too many forgeries of the old coin in circulation. I didn't loosen the light fixing as this can only be done once the engine cover is opened. You can get to this wire without making the gap wider, but the risk of damaging the bodywork is greater. As DBJoe996 said put some tape on the bumper before you start. Then push in the wedge to open up the gap slightly. The plastic wedge is a kitchen fitter's wedge used to level up kitchen fittings. But you could use a timber wedge or make one from layers of stiff cardboard. The hook is made from a wire coat hanger, but just take the burrs off the cut edge of the hook to reduce the chance of scratching the paintwork. When you have got the wire out, before pulling it press down on the lid to take the tension out of the catch. Once you have the lid open, if you want you can remove the rear light cluster before putting the wire back. Here's a link to a YouTube video. Don't drop the set screw into the engine compartment! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1PuWKogbkM
  6. Here are a few pics to help. I also did a tutorial on it. One picture has the light cluster removed to show the cable.
  7. This is always a worry when you have a car with only one door that can be opened with a key. As the owner is now faced with desperate measures to gain entry and the locked barrel seems to be broken are there any other means of entry aside from breaking a window? Probably the least messy route is to get the remote re-programmed. Surely, if it opens the "frunk" then that will also open the doors. It does on mine and then automatically re-locks the doors after the "frunk" is closed if the doors are not opened within a few minutes. .
  8. Great news - now that you have opened it try looking for the wire. You never know when you might need it.
  9. Check the +ve lead as well - you don't want that to bounce off as it could cause other problems such as voltage spikes.
  10. On a UK car that's under the left side back light pod when looking at the car from the back.
  11. Mine's a 996/2003 model. I would have thought the Boxster had a similar wire as there must be an emergency entry route somehow.. Try looking under the rear light pod with a torch, having moved it away from the rear valance with a wedge. Put some tape on the body work to avoid damage. Loren says it's in the rear fender well of the Boxster. That would mean taking off a wheel and the plastic shroud. That's not too difficult. The front cable is best located, to start with, by removing a headlight pod. It's easier than pushing back the rubber shroud in front of the rad. When you have located the cable, it can be extended to a more convenient spot. The headlight pod is easy to remove and replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPmju6yPJu8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2b7rplaw2E
  12. I did this tutorial some time back for a 996, showing how to open the engine lid using the emergency wire. It might help you. https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/
  13. Glad you solved the brake pulling problem. When bleeding I prefer to use a vacuum bleeder to drag the fluid through and out. They are not expensive - about £30 - but you need a compressed air supply to operate it. I used to bleed the brakes using your method of pressing the pedal to the floor and cracking the nipple open, or using a non-return valve on the open nipple . However, this method means that you push the M/C piston down beyond its position of normal travel. If there's any junk or bore scoring down the end of the M/C bore it could damage the M/C piston seal.
  14. Hi CC The link I posted was for a Porsche vid on YouTube showing the "window down function" when the open button is held down on the 996 key fob. Here it is again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc0ssSwpcUU&t=3s
  15. I have had a problem with my key fob not working in certain locations and have had to put the key in the lock to both open and close the vehicle . I put this down to jamming from a higher intensity signal nearby. This hasn't happened frequently. You might want to try the electronic signal somewhere else to make sure it's not some extraneous fault at your current location. I have to say that in comparison with a Toyota key fob, which seems bomb proof, the Porsche fob has had a few wobblies, but not too many. Window down feature
  16. I assume there are two buttons on the key fob. One for doors and the other for hood? So the hood button doesn't work?
  17. The advice about replacing the battery is worth following and a good start. Also my keys don't work if I try and use them when walking quickly towards the car. However, they will work at a fair distance if stationary. Have you tried some of the other key functions? Will they open the front hood? If the open door open button is held down does it drop both windows to fully open (useful on a hot day)?
  18. I had a look at both the seat belt slides and they are tight. I am sure now that I have located it. Coming back to an observation I made earlier, the rattle occurs at low speed and stops when I press the brake lightly. I have been trundling up and down a rough track to try and locate it. My first thought on this was it could be brake pads, as suggested by Loren. I put in new springs and pins and the rattle is still there. As it disappears with brake load and I know it's not the pads, shocks or drop links it is obviously something that tightens under load. I have checked the diagonal tie bars and they are ok. The next thing is the "coffin" arms. Although the joints are tight, they must be rattling at low speed. There are three connections on these arms and I reckon that this is where the problem lies. I notice that Hartech in the UK do a replacement service for these arms at about £100 per side and I think I'll consider doing this next year.
  19. Thanks for the information as the alarm goes off with the key in, but with the ignition off when the -ve terminal connector is taken off. I would have thought there would have been guidance in the handbook on this topic for changing the battery, but nothing is given. It's just seems strange to leave the ignition on, when disconnecting the battery. I didn't want to try the "on" option without confirmation. When the battery is re-connected will I have to do the throttle body re-set? What is the time delay between disconnecting the battery and safely doing work on any air bag connections and should I make sure there is no residual power in the circuits by placing a load across the disconnected terminals?
  20. 996 C2 2003 I want to do some work on the underside of the seats and know that the electrical under-seat connector remains live even when the ignition is turned off. There is therefore a danger of activating the airbag if the connector is separated. I know that from Loren's article on door card removal that it is recommended that the -ve battery terminal is disconnected and covered first and a delay time given of at least a minute before doing any work near air bags connectors. On my car, if I disconnect the battery the alarm goes off. So the questions are: Should I leave the ignition key in when disconnecting the battery to prevent the alarm going off? Should the ignition key then remain in when doing the work on the seat and separating the connector? Will I have to go through the "idle butterfly valve reset procedure" after re-connecting the battery? Thanks for reading and it's a great web-site.
  21. Thanks to everyone who replied. I have put in new front brake pad retaining springs and new pins and spring clips, but the rattle is still there. I also disconnected the diagonal stabiliser bar from the "coffin arm" to make sure there was no free play, but that is also sound and the flange nut torques up correctly on the yoke. I am now coming round to thinking it must be the "coffin arm" but it does not show any free play when stressed with a lever. These arms are the original fitting and now 14 years old. This job might have to wait until next year. I might just have to put up with the noise for now. It's not serious just annoying. Thanks for reading H
  22. I had this liner out last year when I had to replace two of the air con tubes that run through here. I might take it off again. Thanks for the suggestion Ahsai. I know these seems obvious, but it's something I hadn't checked until yesterday. When driving slowly over a rough road, if I apply the brakes the noise reduces. It's a sort of clatter. I am now beginning to think it could be the brake pads. They feel tight, but when I replaced the pads recently I didn't renew the spring plate, as the old one seemed in good condition. I have now ordered some new spring plates, which I will put in later this week. Perhaps this will solve it. Thanks to everyone who's replied. I'll keep you posted.
  23. Thanks - I took everything out of the frunk again yesterday, including all the liners and the plastic trims around the ALB block and the servo. Checked the tools and they're OK. I thought I had found it when I noticed one of the bolts on the CD changer wasn't tight. But, no joy.
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