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SpawnyWhippet

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Posts posted by SpawnyWhippet

  1. Long story short, my local dealer accidentally coded the incorrect VIN into all the modules in my Macan, including DME and TCM. Supposedly this is not possible but they did it and I have cast iron proof. (I now have 2 DME's with the same incorrect VIN and scanner screenshots showing the correct VIN in my vehicle).

    They refuse point blank to rectify this and state it is not possible to change the VIN, they can only to replace every module in my vehicle at my expense. (This is not viable, the car would be mechanically totaled by the bill.) Better Business Bureau and Bureau of Automotive Repairs were toothless and the dealer just ignored them.

     

    So, onto solutions, what is my most cost effective way to get the correct VIN coded back to my car? I have PIWIS 2 and PIWIS 3 clones, but they are only able to change the VIN on some of the modules. I am unable to change the VIN on the DME, TCM, PCM, Front Camera, Airbag, Amplifier, Steering Wheel electronics and a couple of others.

     

    Are there companies that can reprogram these on the bench, or via OBD? Is there a dealer or R&D engineering process for recoding the VIN on these modules that I could access somehow?

    This needs to be corrected, as the vehicle will never be able to pass smog in the future as the VIN in the car does not match the VIN on the registration. It also appears to be a stolen vehicle now if anyone checks.

  2. Did you find the cause of the error B10151B Battery main switching switch unit, limit value exceeded? I saw your other post on the Macan forum and have a similar issue. My project 2016 Macan S was rebuilt using the wiring harness from a wrecked 2017 Macan S. I already replaced the battery negative cable with no change, and the fusible link seems to be OK on the positive terminal. I can start the car just fine, but the airbag light will not turn off due to this error code.

  3. I managed to complete the job, but it was not easy.

    RENNLIST.COM

    DIY Submission Forum - DIY to replace Cayenne turbo without dropping engine - I am writing this DIY as I couldn’t find anywhere that described how to DIY a left turbo replacement on a 2005 Porsche Cayenne Turbo, and all the mechanics I spoke to said the drivetrain must be dropped out the car to do...

     

  4. 5 hours ago, Bobby Allan said:

     

    I had same problem, had water under the passenger seat, rear control module submerged, replaced module, alarm now ok, lights all off, and normal, boot and bonnets now open by the electronic buttons, but have the spoiler stuck in the up position, and the roof does not open, no motor sounds at all.  Do you have to program the rear control module? or have I missed another fault? I have checked all fuses micro switches, and relays all appear fine. what programmer do I need if this is the case. 

     

    I found faults in the relays above the fuse box. They clicked when activated but passed no current. Replaced them and the roof and spoiler started working again. Also one of the fuses was bad. I reprogrammed the rear control module to match the options in my car using Durametric.

  5. I have been restoring a 2005 Boxster that suffered water ingress to the cabin. Most of the roof and rear module stuff is now fixed.

    However, there were a few persistent convertible top DMLs in the Gateway module that I was trying to clear with my PIWIS II tool. I think I managed to erase the programming of the Gateway instead of the fault codes.

     

    Now the instrument cluster is dead, the spoiler is always extended and the cooling fans are running at full speed whenever the ignition is on.

    I tried to reprogram the Gateway using either the Automatic or Manual programming modes, but both give the following error:

    No relevant programming rules found. Cause: Part Number of GATEWAY control module is not available in programming rules.

     

    Does anyone know how to fix this?

  6. Thanks Loren. Further updates for the benefit of others with this issue:

     

    I discovered that the convertible roof relays above the drivers footwell fuse box were clicking, but not actually working. The relays did not switch any current when I applied voltage to them. I replaced both and now have an operational roof motor and lifting decklid cover. I guess it has not moved in many years as the first thing that happened when the roof started moving was the 2 plastic ball joints broke immediately. I have ordered $30 OEM replacements from ebay.

    I also found 2 loose triangular plastic trim covers trapped in the roof mechanism, one on each side.

    The double clunking noise has stopped, so I can now leave the battery connected all the time.

     

     

    So now, after all those fixes, the roof went up and down correctly 2 or 3 times, then I get an error on the dashboard about 'Convertible Top Module Error' and the switch no longer works, neither does the Activation command from Durametric.

     

    Where would I locate the Convertible Top Module?

     

    Also Fuse D2 (15A) goes to ground. It says it is the blower motor for engine compartment (997) in the fuse diagram. Any suggestions on whether this fuse should be 12V, and what it actually powers on a 2005 Boxster S 987.1?

  7. Updates after some investigation: Fuse A3 was blown, now the rear spoiler extends and retracts correctly and Terminal 30 voltage supply motors error code is gone.

     

    However, still some issues:

    When pressing the roof close button, I get a click from the relay, but nothing else. The roof open button does nothing, no relay clicks. I switched around all the similar relays in the holder but the fault did not move.

    Whilst I was under the dashboard switching relays around, the convertible deck cover did open then close again, but I could not replicate that again, I do not know which relay I pulled that caused that to happen. (A relay diagram would be very useful.)

    I am still getting the 2 clunk clunk noises in the trunk area about every 30 secs.

  8. Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated.

     

    I bought a project 2005 987 Boxster S Tiptronic that had been parked up for 6 months and a reasonable amount of rain water got into the passenger compartment. The rear control module under the drivers seat was corroded and toast, so I replaced it. I also installed a new battery as the previous battery did not hold a good charge.

     

    I now have functional rear lights, but the spoiler is stuck in a slightly raised position and the roof does not operate at all. If the battery is connected and the car is shut off with no key in it, there is a double clunking noise from the trunk area every 30 seconds or so. The parking brake light comes on when I apply the brake. The soft top roof switch does not do anything. The manual spoiler switch does not do anything. When I try to operate the same units from the Durametric 'activations' page, I get nothing.

    (Also, the fuel gauge shows totally empty and Durametric reports an issue with Fuel Level Sender, so I have ordered a used one off ebay.)

     

    I scanned for codes using Durametric and got the following 8004 error, which I have googled extensively with no good solution found:

     

    Rear Body Module

    Current Fault Codes  
    8004: Terminal 30 voltage supply motors

     

    Right Door Module
    Current Fault Codes 

    C121: Communication rear control unit (comfort)
    8701: Door lock module
    8705: Door lock signal implausible

     

    Instrument cluster - 9x7
    Current Fault Codes  
    9112: Fuel level sender

     

    Porsche Stability Management - PSM
    Current Fault Codes  
    4444: Steering-angle sensor not initialized

  9. 4 hours ago, LarryHughes said:

    I've removed and reinstalled mine twice and have never had to remove the seat. A standard 'L' shaped Allen wrench works nicely.

     

    Perhaps you have a different seat base, but in my car, no matter where the seat was positioned, there was a maximum of only 50mm of space between the seat and the side panel of the car, so any tool I tried to fit in would not make it with the angle of attack.

  10. My 2009 997.2 trunk switch trim is held in with 5mm allen bolts. The rear screw cannot be accessed at all without removing the drivers seat.

     

    You only need to loosen them a couple of turns then pop the trim piece upwards with a plastic pry tool to release the clips.

     

    It could be possible without seat removal, but you would need a L shaped allen wrench with a shank of 50 - 70mm. 

  11. The root cause of mine was the brake light switch. It took a long time to identify this as I got 2 bad new replacement switches. The 3rd replacement switch fixed the issue.

     

    I also ended up replacing the switch on the ABS unit and a few other parts before identifying it to be a succession of bad switches.

  12. I have a PIWIS II system running v17.500. It connects and diagnoses to anything later than 2005, eg 997, 987 etc, but it will not allow me to run diagnostics on 996 cars. I can select Porsche 996 under the Diagnostics menu, but when I start to interrogate the car, I get presented with a menu of cars that are all 997 or newer. I tried selecting 997, but the diagnostics fail.

    I can still access 996 OBD with my Durametric pro, but I would like to be able to use PIWIS on 996 instead.

     

    Anybody have any suggestions on how to fix that?

     

    Also, is there a way to update maps, program keys for '09 and newer cars outside the dealer network using this?

  13. Thanks for that, but I think the part I need is the rubber part is in the rear of the transmission between the 2 pieces numbered '3'. Is that replaceable?

     

    I am getting jerky gear shifts and rough idling. I already replaced the engine mounts which made a massive difference, but after driving a 20k mile version of the same car yesterday, I noticed my car has much rougher idle and gear shift.

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