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SpawnyWhippet

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Everything posted by SpawnyWhippet

  1. I found faults in the relays above the fuse box. They clicked when activated but passed no current. Replaced them and the roof and spoiler started working again. Also one of the fuses was bad. I reprogrammed the rear control module to match the options in my car using Durametric.
  2. Nothing heard from this forum, I'll concentrate my efforts elsewhere.
  3. I'm guessing that silence is a "no". As I couldn't fix it either, I picked up a replacement gateway from ebay for $30. Will fit it on arrival.
  4. I have been restoring a 2005 Boxster that suffered water ingress to the cabin. Most of the roof and rear module stuff is now fixed. However, there were a few persistent convertible top DMLs in the Gateway module that I was trying to clear with my PIWIS II tool. I think I managed to erase the programming of the Gateway instead of the fault codes. Now the instrument cluster is dead, the spoiler is always extended and the cooling fans are running at full speed whenever the ignition is on. I tried to reprogram the Gateway using either the Automatic or Manual programming modes, but both give the following error: No relevant programming rules found. Cause: Part Number of GATEWAY control module is not available in programming rules. Does anyone know how to fix this?
  5. Thanks Loren. Further updates for the benefit of others with this issue: I discovered that the convertible roof relays above the drivers footwell fuse box were clicking, but not actually working. The relays did not switch any current when I applied voltage to them. I replaced both and now have an operational roof motor and lifting decklid cover. I guess it has not moved in many years as the first thing that happened when the roof started moving was the 2 plastic ball joints broke immediately. I have ordered $30 OEM replacements from ebay. I also found 2 loose triangular plastic trim covers trapped in the roof mechanism, one on each side. The double clunking noise has stopped, so I can now leave the battery connected all the time. So now, after all those fixes, the roof went up and down correctly 2 or 3 times, then I get an error on the dashboard about 'Convertible Top Module Error' and the switch no longer works, neither does the Activation command from Durametric. Where would I locate the Convertible Top Module? Also Fuse D2 (15A) goes to ground. It says it is the blower motor for engine compartment (997) in the fuse diagram. Any suggestions on whether this fuse should be 12V, and what it actually powers on a 2005 Boxster S 987.1?
  6. Updates after some investigation: Fuse A3 was blown, now the rear spoiler extends and retracts correctly and Terminal 30 voltage supply motors error code is gone. However, still some issues: When pressing the roof close button, I get a click from the relay, but nothing else. The roof open button does nothing, no relay clicks. I switched around all the similar relays in the holder but the fault did not move. Whilst I was under the dashboard switching relays around, the convertible deck cover did open then close again, but I could not replicate that again, I do not know which relay I pulled that caused that to happen. (A relay diagram would be very useful.) I am still getting the 2 clunk clunk noises in the trunk area about every 30 secs.
  7. Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated. I bought a project 2005 987 Boxster S Tiptronic that had been parked up for 6 months and a reasonable amount of rain water got into the passenger compartment. The rear control module under the drivers seat was corroded and toast, so I replaced it. I also installed a new battery as the previous battery did not hold a good charge. I now have functional rear lights, but the spoiler is stuck in a slightly raised position and the roof does not operate at all. If the battery is connected and the car is shut off with no key in it, there is a double clunking noise from the trunk area every 30 seconds or so. The parking brake light comes on when I apply the brake. The soft top roof switch does not do anything. The manual spoiler switch does not do anything. When I try to operate the same units from the Durametric 'activations' page, I get nothing. (Also, the fuel gauge shows totally empty and Durametric reports an issue with Fuel Level Sender, so I have ordered a used one off ebay.) I scanned for codes using Durametric and got the following 8004 error, which I have googled extensively with no good solution found: Rear Body Module Current Fault Codes 8004: Terminal 30 voltage supply motors Right Door Module Current Fault Codes C121: Communication rear control unit (comfort) 8701: Door lock module 8705: Door lock signal implausible Instrument cluster - 9x7 Current Fault Codes 9112: Fuel level sender Porsche Stability Management - PSM Current Fault Codes 4444: Steering-angle sensor not initialized
  8. I have the same issue, what was the resolution for you? I already replaced the Rear Control Module.
  9. It won't help the earlier posters, but this sounds like symptoms of water ingress into the Rear Control Module located under the drivers seat. I had precisely the same symptoms, a soaking wet carpet and the RCM was badly corroded. I replaced it and it fixed most of them immediately. A few more issues to resolve yet.
  10. This is very useful when you want to use a lift with the car, or to move it on its own wheels with the transmission removed. It basically replaces the function of the transmission mounts that support the forward end of the engine. Its hard to do that when using a trolley jack or jack stand.
  11. Perhaps you have a different seat base, but in my car, no matter where the seat was positioned, there was a maximum of only 50mm of space between the seat and the side panel of the car, so any tool I tried to fit in would not make it with the angle of attack.
  12. My 2009 997.2 trunk switch trim is held in with 5mm allen bolts. The rear screw cannot be accessed at all without removing the drivers seat. You only need to loosen them a couple of turns then pop the trim piece upwards with a plastic pry tool to release the clips. It could be possible without seat removal, but you would need a L shaped allen wrench with a shank of 50 - 70mm.
  13. Hi, looking for the codes for the following 2 radios please, thanks in advance! CDR-23 Serial : 4503318 Model: BE 6627 CDR-220 serial: X5036570 Model: BE 4462
  14. The root cause of mine was the brake light switch. It took a long time to identify this as I got 2 bad new replacement switches. The 3rd replacement switch fixed the issue. I also ended up replacing the switch on the ABS unit and a few other parts before identifying it to be a succession of bad switches.
  15. I have been running my car with one spray of DeoxIT D5 for 8 months, no recurrence of the airbag light. At this rate, one can of cleaner will last the lifetime of the car.
  16. I rebooted yet again and this time success. No changes made, no configuration different, same cable and same car. Now I can access 996 through OBD. Maybe some kind of glitch. I noticed that my software was actually 17.5, not 18.1.
  17. I have a PIWIS II system running v17.500. It connects and diagnoses to anything later than 2005, eg 997, 987 etc, but it will not allow me to run diagnostics on 996 cars. I can select Porsche 996 under the Diagnostics menu, but when I start to interrogate the car, I get presented with a menu of cars that are all 997 or newer. I tried selecting 997, but the diagnostics fail. I can still access 996 OBD with my Durametric pro, but I would like to be able to use PIWIS on 996 instead. Anybody have any suggestions on how to fix that? Also, is there a way to update maps, program keys for '09 and newer cars outside the dealer network using this?
  18. Thanks for that, but I think the part I need is the rubber part is in the rear of the transmission between the 2 pieces numbered '3'. Is that replaceable? I am getting jerky gear shifts and rough idling. I already replaced the engine mounts which made a massive difference, but after driving a 20k mile version of the same car yesterday, I noticed my car has much rougher idle and gear shift.
  19. What is the part number for 2009 Carrera 2 997 PDK transmission mount? thank you
  20. I have not found a cure for the 2310 code. I cleared it a couple of times after I did the HPFP and then it never came back. I also did not find a cure for C418, everything seems to work and my dealer didn't seem very interested in diagnosing it when I was last down there. Sorry I can't be more help on this one.
  21. It would be possible to get the pump fitted without the tang in the correct place, but I made very sure that I aligned them correctly before installation. It is pretty easy to do that correctly. The 'gear' in the engine side is like a large brass-coloured ring with a slot in it, and the pump tang fits in that slot. It's not too difficult to refill the coolant, and you can clamp the rubber hose part to minimize coolant loss. The best way is to buy a $50 AirLift vaccum filler that you hook to your air compressor, but you could also do it just by filling and topping up a few times after running. Like I said, I undid the hose clamps and retainers for that coolant tube and managed to move it enough without stressing the pipe to fit the pump behind it. The largest part of the job for me was undoing the rusted exhaust bolts, but all came off after soaking overnight with penetrant and a bit of heat on a couple of them.
  22. That pipe is a coolant pipe. I managed to replace mine without disconnecting it, but it would be easier to replace if you did. There is a small drive gear in the engine that turns the pump, and the pump has a small tang that engages into the drive. It was a little tricky getting those to engage correctly when the coolant pipe was in the way. It is not a difficult DIY. Unless your dealer is going to do the labor for less than $200, I would do it myself. My dealer wanted almost $2k to replace mine.
  23. I'm suffering from Secondary Air Readiness not complete on my 07 Cayman base model with 100k miles. I replaced my faulty DMTL pump 3 weeks ago and have since driven the car around 200 miles, with about 30 cold starts. There are no codes at all in Durametric, and I have done several long drives with the speed under 3000rpm. I also scanned the car with a Snap-on Modis and it reports the same. No fault codes but SAI not ready. The only symptom I have is that the fuel tank is difficult to fill without the pump clicking off all the time. I need to pass smog so I can re-register it, but I also need to replace a failing starter motor, for which I need to disconnect the battery, which will reset the DME, so I won't pass smog... Any ideas on how to get this thing to pass Secondary Readiness.
  24. I also did this and got the upgraded Beru coil packs with larger heads. I used a 1" boat transom plug off ebay for $5 to pull the oil tubes and replaced all the o rings. The whole job, including the correct OEM Beru coil packs, spark plugs, oil plug tube tool and o rings (all off Amazon or ebay) cost 30% less than the Porsche dealer was going to charge just to sell me the coil packs (no labor or tax!)
  25. I have the exact same codes in my 07 Cayman. Did you ever get to the bottom of it? I cleared mine and they always return. The car is stock, other than an aftermarket Pioneer headunit that often cause CAN errors. I have coded out the radio and related components, but these never go away.
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