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Hi Spawny, I am getting ready to replace my hpfp on my 2011 997.2, 111,800 miles. It’s has the tale tale signs everyone talks about; slow cold start, rough once it does start and sometimes after cold start, rough idle it dies. Can you tell me if you needed any other parts besides the fuel pump? I appreciate your help.
I managed to complete the job, but it was not easy. DIY to replace Cayenne turbo without dropping engine - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM DIY Submission Forum - DIY to replace Cayenne turbo without dropping engine - I am writing this DIY as I couldn’t find anywhere that described how to DIY a left turbo replacement on a 2005 Porsche Cayenne Turbo, and all the mechanics I spoke to said the drivetrain must be dropped out the car to do...
I found faults in the relays above the fuse box. They clicked when activated but passed no current. Replaced them and the roof and spoiler started working again. Also one of the fuses was bad. I reprogrammed the rear control module to match the options in my car using Durametric.
I have been restoring a 2005 Boxster that suffered water ingress to the cabin. Most of the roof and rear module stuff is now fixed. However, there were a few persistent convertible top DMLs in the Gateway module that I was trying to clear with my PIWIS II tool. I think I managed to erase the programming of the Gateway instead of the fault codes. Now the instrument cluster is dead, the spoiler is always extended and the cooling fans are running at full speed whenever the ignition is on. I tried to reprogram the Gateway using either the Automatic or Manual programming modes, but both give the following error: No relevant programming rules found. Cause: Part Number of GATEWAY control module is not available in programming rules. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks Loren. Further updates for the benefit of others with this issue: I discovered that the convertible roof relays above the drivers footwell fuse box were clicking, but not actually working. The relays did not switch any current when I applied voltage to them. I replaced both and now have an operational roof motor and lifting decklid cover. I guess it has not moved in many years as the first thing that happened when the roof started moving was the 2 plastic ball joints broke immediately. I have ordered $30 OEM replacements from ebay. I also found 2 loose triangular plastic trim covers trapped in the roof mechanism, one on each side. The double clunking noise has stopped, so I can now leave the battery connected all the time. So now, after all those fixes, the roof went up and down correctly 2 or 3 times, then I get an error on the dashboard about 'Convertible Top Module Error' and the switch no longer works, neither does the Activation command from Durametric. Where would I locate the Convertible Top Module? Also Fuse D2 (15A) goes to ground. It says it is the blower motor for engine compartment (997) in the fuse diagram. Any suggestions on whether this fuse should be 12V, and what it actually powers on a 2005 Boxster S 987.1?
Updates after some investigation: Fuse A3 was blown, now the rear spoiler extends and retracts correctly and Terminal 30 voltage supply motors error code is gone. However, still some issues: When pressing the roof close button, I get a click from the relay, but nothing else. The roof open button does nothing, no relay clicks. I switched around all the similar relays in the holder but the fault did not move. Whilst I was under the dashboard switching relays around, the convertible deck cover did open then close again, but I could not replicate that again, I do not know which relay I pulled that caused that to happen. (A relay diagram would be very useful.) I am still getting the 2 clunk clunk noises in the trunk area about every 30 secs.
Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated. I bought a project 2005 987 Boxster S Tiptronic that had been parked up for 6 months and a reasonable amount of rain water got into the passenger compartment. The rear control module under the drivers seat was corroded and toast, so I replaced it. I also installed a new battery as the previous battery did not hold a good charge. I now have functional rear lights, but the spoiler is stuck in a slightly raised position and the roof does not operate at all. If the battery is connected and the car is shut off with no key in it, there is a double clunking noise from the trunk area every 30 seconds or so. The parking brake light comes on when I apply the brake. The soft top roof switch does not do anything. The manual spoiler switch does not do anything. When I try to operate the same units from the Durametric 'activations' page, I get nothing. (Also, the fuel gauge shows totally empty and Durametric reports an issue with Fuel Level Sender, so I have ordered a used one off ebay.) I scanned for codes using Durametric and got the following 8004 error, which I have googled extensively with no good solution found: Rear Body Module Current Fault Codes 8004: Terminal 30 voltage supply motors Right Door Module Current Fault Codes C121: Communication rear control unit (comfort) 8701: Door lock module 8705: Door lock signal implausible Instrument cluster - 9x7 Current Fault Codes 9112: Fuel level sender Porsche Stability Management - PSM Current Fault Codes 4444: Steering-angle sensor not initialized
It won't help the earlier posters, but this sounds like symptoms of water ingress into the Rear Control Module located under the drivers seat. I had precisely the same symptoms, a soaking wet carpet and the RCM was badly corroded. I replaced it and it fixed most of them immediately. A few more issues to resolve yet.
SpawnyWhippet replied to Paul Grainger's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)This is very useful when you want to use a lift with the car, or to move it on its own wheels with the transmission removed. It basically replaces the function of the transmission mounts that support the forward end of the engine. Its hard to do that when using a trolley jack or jack stand.
Perhaps you have a different seat base, but in my car, no matter where the seat was positioned, there was a maximum of only 50mm of space between the seat and the side panel of the car, so any tool I tried to fit in would not make it with the angle of attack.
My 2009 997.2 trunk switch trim is held in with 5mm allen bolts. The rear screw cannot be accessed at all without removing the drivers seat. You only need to loosen them a couple of turns then pop the trim piece upwards with a plastic pry tool to release the clips. It could be possible without seat removal, but you would need a L shaped allen wrench with a shank of 50 - 70mm.