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SpawnyWhippet

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Posts posted by SpawnyWhippet

  1. It would be possible to get the pump fitted without the tang in the correct place, but I made very sure that I aligned them correctly before installation. It is pretty easy to do that correctly. The 'gear' in the engine side is like a large brass-coloured ring with a slot in it, and the pump tang fits in that slot. 

     

    It's not too difficult to refill the coolant, and you can clamp the rubber hose part to minimize coolant loss. The best way is to buy a $50 AirLift vaccum filler that you hook to your air compressor, but you could also do it just by filling and topping up a few times after running. Like I said, I undid the hose clamps and retainers for that coolant tube and managed to move it enough without stressing the pipe to fit the pump behind it.

     

    The largest part of the job for me was undoing the rusted exhaust bolts, but all came off after soaking overnight with penetrant and a bit of heat on a couple of them.

  2. That pipe is a coolant pipe. I managed to replace mine without disconnecting it, but it would be easier to replace if you did. There is a small drive gear in the engine that turns the pump, and the pump has a small tang that engages into the drive. It was a little tricky getting those to engage correctly when the coolant pipe was in the way.

     

    It is not a difficult DIY. Unless your dealer is going to do the labor for less than $200, I would do it myself. My dealer wanted almost $2k to replace mine.

     

  3. I'm suffering from Secondary Air Readiness not complete on my 07 Cayman base model with 100k miles.

    I replaced my faulty DMTL pump 3 weeks ago and have since driven the car around 200 miles, with about 30 cold starts. There are no codes at all in Durametric, and I have done several long drives with the speed under 3000rpm. I also scanned the car with a Snap-on Modis and it reports the same. No fault codes but SAI not ready.

     

    The only symptom I have is that the fuel tank is difficult to fill without the pump clicking off all the time.

     

    I need to pass smog so I can re-register it, but I also need to replace a failing starter motor, for which I need to disconnect the battery, which will reset the DME, so I won't pass smog...

     

    Any ideas on how to get this thing to pass Secondary Readiness.

     

    58d2ec2dbaaeb_SAIfail.JPG.72a81b1ef8b840e87269b804d54ec16c.JPG

     

    58d2ec3ba6ee9_Nocodes.JPG.dde622c503c1142f362fddb9bc439c38.JPG

  4. I also did this and got the upgraded Beru coil packs with larger heads. I used a 1" boat transom plug off ebay for $5 to pull the oil tubes and replaced all the o rings.

     

    The whole job, including the correct OEM Beru coil packs, spark plugs, oil plug tube tool and o rings (all off Amazon or ebay) cost 30% less than the Porsche dealer was going to charge just to sell me the coil packs (no labor or tax!)

     

    transom_plug.jpg.961ef0a6343c67d2e2abc5579c503608.jpg

  5. Well, I couldn't find any information at all anywhere on replacing this, so I just worked it out for myself. Bought the pump from Porsche for $850 plus $150 core charge, pulled the exhausts off, removed the pump, installed the new pump, refitted the exhausts, took it for a test run. The car is transformed, a lot more power and no fault codes for the fuel pump. Took me 3 hours, Porsche were going to charge 4 hours.

     

    However, I now have brand new fault codes of :

        
    Siemens Digital Motor Electronics SDI3

    Current Fault Codes    2310: Bar ignition module, cylinder 4 - Upper limit value exceeded

          
    Transmission - PDK

    Current Fault Codes    C418: U0418 - CAN fault, brake

     

    They could have been there before though, my Durametric always hung when reading the codes, but now I have replaced the pump it scans this car properly without hanging.

  6. I  have a 2009 997.2 PDK Carrera 2 and am getting a loss of power and this error code:

    2510: Fuel high-pressure control - adaptation. Value below lower limit value
     

    I believe this means my HPFP is dead and am looking for the workshop procedure for replacing the high pressure fuel pump HPFP. I have looked far and wide for a DIY tutorial on this, but found nothing. My local stealership will do the work for $900 labor plus parts. I have sourced the pump for $850 and want to do the work myself. The pump looks readily accessible at the back right end of the engine, facing the rear bumper.

    I am happy to write this up as a DIY with pics if someone can forward me the workshop manual pages or procedure?

  7. DIY to drain and refill rear differential and Tiptronic transmission


    This DIY describes how to carry out a drain and fill of the differential and Tiptronic transmission for a 2005-2009 Porsche 987.1 Cayman or Boxster (as the minimum quote I got was for over $1000). The procedure will be similar for 1998-2005 996 and Boxster, plus 2005-2009 997. While it is not as comprehensive as a professional flush using a specialist flushing machine, it will get most of the fluid replaced. I am happy to modify the DIY with feedback or other advice. This work is done at your

     

  8. I have a 2007 Cayman base model with 100k miles, with the CEL light on for P2402. I replaced the gas cap as it had quite a lot of cracks in the rubber seal.

     

    The CEL came on shortly afterwards with the following symptoms:

     

    1. P2402: Pump motor final stage tank leak diagnosis module in Durametric.

    2. It is hard to fill the gas tank from about 1/2 full onwards without the gas pump clicking off all the time.

    3. 'Check engine light' and 'Visit Workshop' messages pop up.

     

    What parts would I need to investigate and where are these located? 

  9. Did this ever get a resolution? I am in the same boat. A noisy whining that is worst between 40-60mph in 4-6 gear. Pushing the clutch reduces the whine a lot, but not eliminated. My car is a 1999 996 C4.

    A mechanic nearby has suggested differential side bearings.

     

    Can anyone recommend a shop that can repair these in the Bay Area? I can R&R the transmission myself, but I am not sure I want to get involved with shimming bearings to adjust the backlash or preload.

  10. A good way to troubleshoot is to get a MOST loop connector so you can bridge out each component in the MOST chain one by one until the error goes away. I found similar errors when I removed my factory CDR24 headunit and fitted a Pioneer AVIC-7200NEX headunit. Got loads of fault codes until I coded the radio out of the system with Durametric and fitted a MOST loop connector onto the loose MOST plug.

     

    most connector.JPG

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