SpawnyWhippet

What is the part number for the coil pack / spark plug heat shields and 2 retaining bolts for a 2004 Carrera 4S?

(I think that is the name, they are the thin shield plates that you need to remove to access the coils.)

BTW, if you need to do this again, its much easier and quicker if you remove the exhaust mufflers first, just undo 3 bolts and a tube clamp on each side and they slide off. I can now do a complete spark plug change on a 996 in about 90 mins. The first time I tried took me most of the day when I was trying to slide all manners of extensions and universal joints in that tiny gap.

I would like to remove the aftermarket Kenwood head unit and amp and reinstall the factory CDR23 and Bose amp on my 04 C4S, but the previous owner cut the radio connectors from the wiring harness. One of the reasons I want to do this is that whenever I scan the car with Durametric, I get a lot of red flags under PCM and the application crashes whenever I try to clear fault codes.

(I have uninstalled and reinstalled, no change. The same Durametric system works perfectly when I try the same process on my 01 C2 with correct radio.)

I've been trying to locate inexpensive replacement connectors, but have not had any luck. There seems to be one set on ebay, but the seller is asking double what I paid for the radio. Calls to wreckers yards have not yielded anything yet, they don't seem to be interested in selling such low value items.

Anyone able to locate a cheapish set of connectors? Its the kind of thing I hoped any car audio shop could sell me for $20 or so.

I recently bought my clean title 2004 C4S, and have subsequently discovered the previous owner hadn't been entirely truthful when I asked him if the car had ever been damaged or stolen. Turns out it was both, car had been stolen when quite young and recovered by police not long after the thief had a fender bender. This came to light when I noticed that the under-hood VIN plate (next to the cabin air filter) was missing.

I contacted my local dealer Carlsen, but they advise Porsche cannot supply a replacement VIN plate.

Is there any legal way to get a new VIN plate made and reattached?

2 of the 3 bolts that hold the headlight bracket to the fender on my 2004 C4S cabrio have fallen out.

My local stealer wants $380 to replace the whole bracket, which seems excessive when I just need 2 bolts.

Is there a part number to order these separately?

My 2004 C4S doesn't have the protective cover plates over the spark plugs - are they missing or were they not fitted on this model year?

Ah, it seems to be a self calibrating unit. After about half an hour, I noticed that it was now reading 70F. Problem solved.

Well that one is, my Durametric is still crashing when I try to clear AC codes.

My 04 C4S was missing the external air temp sensor in the front bumper when I bought it. I ordered a new one and installed it, but the readout on the dashboard says -40F, even though it is 70F here today.

I get no related errors in Durametric (although it is crashing every time it tries clear faults in the AC module.)

Any ideas on recalibrating this unit?

Great DIY write-up! Mine is whining so this is on the cards for me. How long does it take from start to finish? I already ordered the Mobil grease from Grainger, but need to find some time to work on this one.

In my recently bought 2004 C4S, I am getting a high pitched whining from the engine bay (when hot), that changes frequency with engine revs. Any ideas what this could be?

Is there any way to test if the oil cooler / heat exchanger is bad in the car? My just bought 2004 C4S with 60k miles has low coolant levels and high oil levels, and I am suspicious. I replaced the engine oil and did not see any oil in the coolant. It was hard to tell if there was any coolant in the oil, but there was no mayonnaise in the oil filler neck.

I ordered the combustion leak detection kit that Kanin suggested, but it hasn't arrived yet.

I found the pressure switch, it is a BOSCH 0265005303 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor ESP and very easy to change.

Undo the wiring harness clip, push a deep 24mm socket over the switch and undo it. Doesn't even need bleeding afterwards - 5 min job from start to finish, including clearing the codes with Durametric.

Hope this helps someone else out there to avoid replacing a perfectly good $3.5k pump for the sake of a $150 switch.

I cleared the codes, drove for a day then the fault has reappeared, with error:

P1574:
Porsche fault code 364 - Stop light switch Signal implausible

Seeing as I have cleaned the MAF, checked all the brake lights, replaced the clutch switch (twice), brake switch (3 times) and ignition switches, replaced the pressure sensor on the ABS, I am not sure where to go next.

I bought a used ABS pump with PSM from a 2004 996, but the part number is slightly different: 996.355.755.62
(my car is 996.355.755.52), could this be an issue if I fitted it?

Sorry, forgot. 2001 996 C2 with PSM

I have had this problem. Durametric throws faullts for stop light switch, so I replace the switch on the pedal. This didn't fix it, so I took the car to a specialist who advised it was the pressure sensor / switch on the ABS PSM hydraulic pump. It is a seperate part to the pump, but the shop seemed unable to locate a replacement part, other than buying the whole pump for many $$.

I've been unable to find a part number for this switch, can anyone advise if it is possible to buy it seperately?

I have this same code, I have changed and checked the brake pedal switch several times. Finally gave up and took it to a local specialist who told me it is the pressure sensor or switch on the ABS controller. He told me he has replaced the sensor a couple of times in the past, but is now unable to locate the part number. Is there such a part, or do I need to replace the whole PSM ABS unit? If so, what is the correct part number for a 2001 C2?

So my front trunk latch is fixed - it was the actuator. I got a replacement from Suncoast for around $60 and it opens every time now.

Just need to bolt in the new air oil separator now...

I have this exact same problem in my 2001 996. After replacing the latch with no change, I think it could be the latch motor by the drivers headlight that is weak and not pulling the release cable far enough to pop the latch mechanism. I have ordered a replacement motor and hopefully that will fix it.

 

Thanks for writing this up.

Can you elaborate on point 8 please - lower the engine? Do you mean you undo the engine mounts and drop it down to a cross member? Any other steps involved than undoing the 2 engine mounts?

I would take 1 Porsche 996TT over 2 M3's

Here is what happen on mine. About 2 weeks ago, I closed the hood and it cannot be open anymore. I tried to pull the release switch located next to the driver seat even heard a sound that sounds like the cable was releasing but the hood just won't pop. This monday after a car wash, the hood opens while the car parked in the driveway but then later on it couldn't open again. After searching on the web and got some article about this hood issue, I got home early from work last night thought to give it shot of this method by pull the hood while having someone pull the electric switch but no luck. So I thought to pull the car to the driveway as this was how the hood open the other day (maybe is the parking angle?) before I move forward to pull the metal cable in the passenger side wheel well and guess what? The hood opens right when I pull the switch. How weird?? I have then removed the latch last night, everything was in placed and had lubricated. Earlier this afternoon, I have reinstalled the latch and had my friend help to pull the release switch make sure the cable does pull and the lock moves. After I close the hood and it doesn't open again?? Would it be able to solve the issue if I just replace with a new latch or could something else be wrong? When I checked the latch last night and it seems to work just fine and in place even the springs.

I have this exact same problem in my 2001 996. After replacing the latch with no change, I think it could be the latch motor by the drivers headlight that is weak and not pulling the release cable far enough to pop the latch mechanism. I have ordered a replacement motor and hopefully that will fix it.

Did anyone come up with a way to build a PST2?

I already have a Mercedes Star Xentry laptop with Durametric installed on it, but I am frequently finding limitations with Durametric, eg not pulling all the fault codes, not identifying all the modules in the car, inverting parts of the fault codes, detecting a fault in a module but not providing a fault code etc.

My ideal solution would be a single workshop laptop that I use for online manuals/forums, Mercedes and Porsche PST2 diagnostics (with the appropriate cables). I don't want to keep a different laptop / scanner in my garage for each car brand I have.

Thanks very much, I was trying to remove brackets '17 and 18', which was why it was so tough!!

So much easier and quicker when you take the correct bolts off... Took only 45 mins to do the passenger side, including brake pad change.

Am I removing the wrong bolts? I have 2x 13mm bolts holding the lower part of the muffler bracket under the engine, and 2x longer 13mm bolts holding the upper part to the engine just above the coil pack for cylinder 2

Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but I have spent 60 mins just trying to remove the upper rear bolt that holds the drivers side muffler bracket on. I can just about get a long extension with a universal joint to the bolt and get 1/8 of a turn with my ratchet before the UJ locks up.

If the long bolts that hold the muffler to the muffler brackets had been fitted upside down with the nut at the top, this would have been 5 mins job as I could just drop the bolts out the bottom and pull the muffler off the bracket.

I'm considering it, but at present just attacking 5 years of deferred maintenance with a huge mountain of replacement service items and fluids.

Yes, thats the bit I am referring to. Shouldn't the bypass valve be a spring assembly that goes in there?

Mine is just an empty 1/2" bit of tube protruding from the center of the bottom of the housing, looks like it should have something to sit in it.

I called the local dealer and they told me the bypass valve is part of the housing. Does this pic below look like I have the valve or just a cup for it to sit in?