tac27

Just wanted to contribute my comment how impressed I am regarding your mechanical skills! Very well done project and I wish I lived near you so I could learn a thing or two from you.

There is a fellow PCA member here in the Vegas chapter that owns a shop that specializes in just this type of conversion. Here is his website: http://www.renegadehybrids.com/

Regards,

Tim

Recent quote from an indie here in Las Vegas was 3,500 to 4,000 to replace clutch, RMS, IMS, AOS and the crankcase breather hose.

After break down, he determined that the IMS did not need replacement so I decided to wait until the next clutch replacement to upgrade it.

Tim

2003 996 C2 Cabriolet

I've searched thru the forum trying to discover the acceptable range of the 'camshaft position deviation' for a Variocam Plus.

I've found a post discussing a +/- 6 value, but the post was about a Variocam, not a Variocam Plus; is the value range the same for both? I also found several PDFs posted, which were really great, but I didn't find a listed acceptable value range.

This is the reading I've gotten from the Durametric:

Bank 1 is .46

Bank 2 is 2.81

The values remain consistant despite variation in RPM or temperature; are they within the acceptable range?

Thank you,

Tim

Las Vegas

Very nice!

Ah, darn....

I didn't even notice he was responding to a question about a Cayenne.....

Thanks for you patience, Loren!

Ok, I'm a bit confused......

If I understand the diagram to which Loren directed me, bank one (1-2-3) is on the driver's (US model) or left side of the engine (as viewed from the rear of the car).....

but in this post (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/35510-oxygen-sensor-error-code-which-one-is-it/page__p__188147__hl__%2Boxygen+%2Bbank__fromsearch__1#entry188147), RFM instructs that it is on the passenger side, which I take to be on the right side, viewed from the rear of the car (4-5-6).....

So...which is correct?

Okay, I do have another question.....

Which side is 'bank 1'?

Is that the exaust system from the left side of the engine or the passenger side?

http://www.renntech....arts-locations/

Bank one is cylinders 1-2-3

Bank two is cylinders 4-5-6

Thanks Loren, you responded faster that I could edit my post!

Okay, I do have another question.....

Which side is 'bank 1'?

Is that the exaust system from the left side of the engine or the passenger side?

Ok....I found the answer.

Problems is I kept getting an error code when I searched the term 'bank 1' (the '1' is less than three charachters).

I finally had success searching for 'oxygen bank' and found a response by RFM that bank one is from the passenger side, so thanks to RFM for his post.

38...the day we purchased it was my wife's birthday.

Thank Maurice and Loren.

One question...what is 'TWC'? (Never mind, found the Glossary near the codes list......the catalytic converter)

I'm gettin two error codes from the Durametric:

446 Clutch Pedal Encoder

16 Oxygen Sensor Ageing-delay bank 1

I've tried the search function and didn't find anything......

I tried looking up the parts on Pelican; I didn't get a return for a 'clutch pedal encoder' and searching for an oxygen sensor I find there are four choices (two before the cats, two after).

Any guidance on what part to purchase would be appreciated, or if I just completely missed the page containing the codes and the explanation a location for it.

'03 996 C2 6-speed cabriolet

Tim, looking at your picture, it appears that you have nearly 100,000miles on the car. Seeing that you only get the low pressure warning @ idle revs, why not try a slightly heavier oil - say 10W40 or 15W50 weight - instead of the 0W40 you are currently using. It maybe a combination of high mileage and hot low viscosity oil at low revs causing the problem.

Changed to heavier oil Thursday afternoon (new filter, too), got light on Saturday afternoon.......

The fault code should be stored in the dash (combi instrument) memory, i would do a test drive with a professional oil pressure gauge installed to have a more clear look what's really happen. If the pressures are normal (directly measured from the engine with the prof. gauge) check the wiring's, connectors and dash.

I chatted with the dealer....they want $125 minimal to perform that test; more $ to replace the sensor.....

I figure with the cost to purchase the part from a third party at around $50 I'm $75 ahead even if it isn't the sensor......

I found another thread that suggested grounding the sensor and observing what the guage does...going to try that, see what that reveals.

Key on engine off if you ground the signal wires at the sensor the gauge should sweep fully and illuminate the warning light. If not then the fault is within the gauge, maybe someone had the pointer off for whatever reason and now it's out of wack.

My oil pressure guage rest just below the '1' but will move a little lower and rise almost to '2' with the key in/engine off....so I'm wondering if a bad pressure sensor is the culprit to the 'low oil pressure light' I get.

To accomplish 'ground the singal wires at the sensor' can I just touch one of the leads to the body of the car, suspension, engine block?

I've been chasing a 'low oil pressure light' occuring at idle, and strangely, only in the afternoons.

No codes on the Durametric, even plugged in while light is illuminating and still nothing (meaning nothing on DME or instrument check). Throttle body, plenum, air distributors all cleaned when new hose that snakes from the AOS across the top of the block to the other side was replaced; replaced oil filler tube, clutch and RMS (no problems with IMS leaking) at this time too.

Mechanic checked AOS (which was replaced 8 months ago) and believes it is all fine, secured etc.

So I'm really hoping it is the sender.

The fault code should be stored in the dash (combi instrument) memory, i would do a test drive with a professional oil pressure gauge installed to have a more clear look what's really happen. If the pressures are normal (directly measured from the engine with the prof. gauge) check the wiring's, connectors and dash.

Thanks RFM...one more question...can you recommend the oil pressue tool? Does it attach to the oil filler tube?

Tim.

I'm receiving the low oil pressure warning light; I've been working with an indie mechanic who has completed work yet the condition persist. It only appears at idle, and then only for a brief moment. It doesn't always appear, for example, my wife drove the car yesterday and no light. But then, maybe the car just likes her better than me.

The car also refuses to cooperate when it is at the indie; again, maybe the car prefers his company over mine too.....So, his solution has been to replace the crankcase breather tube. It was improperly installed by a different indie mechanic who replaced the AOS nearly a year ago; it had four large cracks in it. He felt that perhaps this was a leak in the system causing the light. unfortunately, the light appeared the next afternoon during my commute home from work, but with four large cuts in the hose, it still needed to be replaced anyway.

While the car was at the garage, I had the clutch replaced; he also replaced the RMS. There are no issues with the IMS, and there is absolutely no oil leaking from anywhere on the engine. It isn't as clean as OrientExpress', but it is pretty clean!

The oil pressue sending unit was replaced last summer. So neither I or the indie have paid much attention to it other than checking that the connectors or connected to it.

So I puchased a Durametric hoping I could catch it right when it happened. The only fault codes are one regarding the radio and one about the lumbar sensor in the seat. I keep the oil level right at the top mark of the dipstick; I use the recommended Mobile 1 0W 40.

I recently performed a seach and found a thread that discussed a similiar issue; I think Loren had posted a response that outlined searching for fault codes and then something about a line test or something like that if there were no faults. I can see the Duramtric has a tab about line test; problem is I cant find that thread again.

So my question is if that thread is familiar to someone and could point me to it or explain what 'line test' I should be performing.....or if someone has had a similiar experience and solution.

Tim

Las Vegas

Here's an update:

I was able to get the car to communicate the oil pressure error message. This instance the red dash oil 'idiot light' (along the row including the 'park' and 'seat belt' light below the tach) didn't illuminate or it did so briefly that I didn't notice it. When I got home I left the car running, hooked up the Durametric and found no codes, other than what I listed in my original post. I turned the car off, removed the key, reinserted the key and restarted...the dash/instrument cluster error message seen in the picture was gone.

I recently used this thread to replace the water pump and thermostat on my car; thanks to everyone who posted tips, diagrams, instructions, you-tube videos, and parts pricing.

Now on to the next project, replacing the 'crankcase breather hose' part # 996-107-147 (or 155)-55; anyone have any experience replacing it?

Tim

Las Vegas

'03 996 C2 cabriolet w/manual gearbox.

91 Premium is the only pump grade available here in California, but we do have pumps that sell 100 Octane race gas. So what I do is on every fill-up I mix 4 gallons of 91 with 1 gallon of 100 gas. This gives me a 93-95 octane gas. I also get about 19-24 mpg out of each tank.

Same product availability in Vegas. I do the similiar octane mix as OE with similiar results in fuel economy.

Tim

I hear so many bangs, clacks, dinks, bongs, whirrs on my 2003 C4 cab, particularly with the top down, all of the symptoms in this forum cause me an ulcer - it's hilarious.

Is there an encyclopedia or index of noises a 996 engine makes?

This describes my feeling very well! I was once told that Porsche engines sound like a sewing machine. My wife and daughter recently had their sewing maching out and I can't say I agree with that observation; I think the sewing machine was more quiet.

Thanks Loren and Richard; I'l check both.

I have a an issue concerning the cruise control.

It only works intermittently; the dash indicator does illuminate at start up.

Any suggestions on what might cause a tempramental cruise control?

THanks, RFM; now that I know what it is called I can begin searching for it in the manuals I purchased from porschelibrarian!

Regards,

Tim

Las Vegas

Can anyone tell me what this part is? I've got a small leak of cooling fluid from it. I've 'drawn' a red square around the part.

It looks like it is held in place by two bolts; I'm hoping that I can remove what appears to be a small square cover plate, replace the seal, or gasket, without much trouble.

It is on the passenger side, front of the engine; in the picture you can see the oil filter cannister as a reference.

Thanks!

Tim

Las Vegas

What is it then that causes the temporary tip-tap start-up lifter noise? I've been told that it occurs because the oil drains from within the lifter and therefore taps until the lubricant refills the inside of the lifter. Is that a correct explanation? The 'Porsche Only' indie mechanic suggeting the application of Sea Foam believes that there must be something obstructing one of the tiny holes in the hydraulic lifter that allows the oil to flow . But then I question that if there is an obstruction how is it that the oil could flow out allowing a 'dry' lifter to tap for a period of time at star-up and then too, to 'refill' as the engine runs and warms thus silencing the lifter?

If it isn't common to every Porsche engine, what is it that some do drain while others don't? And even more curious, does it occur in the 997 series?

I'm also curious how frequently this condition later develops into something serious. I have one indie telling me 'danger Will Robinson' and user posts describing similiar circumstances that led to the replacement of an engine. Another indie and the dealer telling me don't worry, its a Porsche thing,; sentiments backed by other user post.

Either way, I'm still very much head over heels about this car; my only regret that I didn't purchase one sooner.

Tim

Las Vegas

Does anyone have any experience, or opinion, about using the additive, Sea Foam, to the oil?

An indie here in Las Vegas recently replaced the AOS for me. When I returned to collect my car the mechanic expressed his concerns about the ticking lifter at start-up; he felt it continued longer than it should. Typically it last several minutes until the car reaches operating temp. He, and the shop co-owner, suggested that I add 'Sea Foam' to the oil to, "Clear out that stuck lifter." The Porsche dealer and another indie here in Vegas have both stated that the sound is nothing to worry about as it doesn't continue once the engine reaches operating temperature.

Tim.

Las Vegas.