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Everything posted by tac27

  1. If you dont plan to do the rebuild yourself I recommend Jake Raby at http://www.flat6innovations.com/ or Don Weaver at https://www.ebsracing.com/
  2. I am looking for the black electrical connection that is shown by the green arrow in the photo. The tab that secures the connection to the male side molded onto the top of the fuel filter snapped right off as I applied pressure to take it off. Thanks in advance to anyone who knows part number and where I can get it. It looks like a standard connection with a release that can be taken off and another put back on the wires. This is on a 2008 Cayenne base model with a V6.
  3. all of the pictures are gone along with most of the instruction
  4. 182k miles on '03 before the IMS failed late last fall. It was not the IMS that failed but the installation was incorrectly completed. So really ask around if the shop/mechanic has the experience and certification he claims to have.....
  5. Do you have a the manual for the 2008 Cayenne?


  6. Finaly found something on Google: An online supplier list a conversion kit that has the brackets, hoses, bolts.
  7. 1987 2.5L base 944 coupe: Wondering if anyone has seen this type of install for an A/C compressor- In May the Las Vegas Region PCA (LVRPCA) arranged for members to receive an assessment of their car compliments of Trophy Performance. After getting the car on the lift and raised the first thing the mechanic pointed out to me was, "I don't know what that A/C compressor is supposed to go into, but it isn't a Porsche 944." Another mechanic confirmed his observation. The accessory drive belt (crank pulley, AC, alternator) is also longer than the OEM belt and about 1/3 the width. The compressor has four sets of 'ear-lobes' compared to the two sets of an OEM compressor*. The AC lines also install at the rear of the compressor, rather than in between the two upper ear-lobes. Rather than mount the two upper ear-lobes to the points an OEM compressor would mount, it is instead mounted to two brackets (two bolts per bracket), which is in turn mounted to the normal mounting position of an OEM. I've attached some pictures: -Red 'star-dots' locate the extra mounting brackets -Green locate where the non-standard compressor mounted to the extra brackets -Yellow show the mounting position of a OEM compressor -Blue shows where the tensioning bar mounts on the lower ear lobe. -A red square shows where one of the ear lobes rest on the sway bar (torsion bar?) and has began rubbing a divot in it -A yellow circle shows the ear lobe that was ground down. I am assuming this was an attempt to pivot the compressor toward the engine block to allow the fitting of the drive belt. Because of the inclusion of the two mounting brackets, it won't work with a correct belt. Instead they used a much longer belt that is also approximately 1/3 less the width of a correct belt. -Blue circle marks where the AC lines mount on an OEM compressor So has anyone ever seen something similar to this 'customization'? I'm really curios if this was an aftermarket kit that was once offered for the 944. Tim Las Vegas *or an aftermarket OEM equivalent.
  8. I took that course last February. Jake and Tony are great instructors, the professional techs taking the course were all very patient with us 'enthusiast, and the facility is really, really cool. Jake mentioned something about getting a book out about rebuilding. Hoping he gets it published soon.
  9. Here's another "I did it!" success post! Many thanks to: Hobbes for the original DIY AOS post; to Ahsai for his post ('MkII AOS DIY Sanity Check') regarding the procedural differences for the MkII engine; and the many other users who have posted about their AOS replacement experience . Especially thanks to Loren et al who created and maintian this resource! If it hasn't already been done, I would suggest that the link to Ahsai's post be added to the Hobbes original DIY post. The search function didnt return Ahsai's MkII post; it was just 'blind-luck' that I found it while wandering through other post.
  10. Ahsai,, I also have a 2003 C2 (a Cabriolet). I am experiencing a challenging removal of the final bolt of the upper air intake. It seems that the round face of the AOS sits directly above the bolt head. Can you please share how you removed that bolt? And to clarify, my AOS is the newer part that does not have a bellows. I see too that the older AOS that has the bellows has two bolts that are horizontal into the block; the newer AOS has two mounting bolts that are positioned vertically into the block.
  11. lakeview: I learned the same thing about the Bentley manual.....Somewhere in this forum I did find a post about using a voltmeter to test the crankshaft sensor; sorry I don't remember where I found it. But I did pull the sensor and it was not in the range it should be. I replaced the sensor and the car then started. It took a couple of attempts, I guess the fuel system needed to prime or recharge.
  12. Odd coincidence, I'm experiencing a similar issue. On the drive home from work on Monday the car ran fine, no issues. When I went to start up this morning, it will crank but will not start. I hooked up the Durametric and found there were no codes. When I ran the 'Short test all modules' under the 'Function' tab it did its thing and returned these values. 21 W lead (DME Immobilizer) 49 K lead 60 Control locking limit position lock not reached 54 Radio receiver defective 33 Interior sensor faulty 18 Pressure sensor lumbar open circuit I have been looking through both the Bentley book and this site, but I'm having difficulty finding these numbers listed. Could any of these, especially the DME immobilizer, cause the problem? Thank you, Tim Post edit: I searched all of the terms, both singularly and as a whole (i.e. "21" and "21 W Lead DME Immobilizer)" and didn't get any returns either in the 996 forum or under the DIY OB II fault text code for my car/DME/engine. I did find a post by 'Dahrn55' posted on June 7, 2009 (I would post a link to it but I don't know how) that he talked about the same issue with Loren. They discovered that it was a faulty crank shaft position sensor. Dahrn55 had additional P codes that led Loren to believe it was the sensor which I am not getting when I run the Durametric scan. I would prefer not 'throwing parts at it' until it starts working again, so any advice would be appreciated.
  13. I replace that part every year when the summer temps break into the triple digits; usually late June or early July.
  14. Loren, Could you please tell me which test I can run with the Durametric and what I should be looking for? I ran everything I saw that looked remotely linked to the fuel system. Biggest challenge is I'm not familiar with what I should be looking for to detect a leak. I would take it to your local Porsche shop and tell them that you've replaced the gas cap but you suspect a leak in the fuel tank ventilation system. If they have a PIWIS they can do a leakage test and pinpoint the problem - a frequent culprit is the fuel tank ventilation system which If you are a DIY person read this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve.htm Thank you roadsession. I would prefer to learn how to find the leak with the Durametric, which I purchased so I wouldn't have to take the car to the shop. Again, if anyone is familiar with how to do this with the Durametric, I'd really appreciate it if you could share that process.
  15. Loren, Could you please tell me which test I can run with the Durametric and what I should be looking for? I ran everything I saw that looked remotely linked to the fuel system. Biggest challenge is I'm not familiar with what I should be looking for to detect a leak.
  16. I found and followed the post in the DIY section to fill the cabrio top pump with pentosin. I ran into something interesting in that my pump looks nothing like the pictures from the DIY post. I purchased the Bentley manual and I have the service manuals I purchased from Porsche Librarian; neither of those show the pump I have. As you can see from the pictures, my pump is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, with the resevoir tank pointing at the nine o'clock position. I included one picture from the DIY article that shows the pump and tank in the 12 to 6 position. The lines also attach at different points and there is no filler hole on the face; that one plug you see does not lead to the tank. Instead, there is a plug on the end of the tank-you can see it the pictures. There is a plus sign (+) on the front side of the tank, so I decided that was the fill level... To fill it I detached the whole assembly from the alluminum roll bar frame. If you look closely at the pictures you can see that there are four threaded studs that are welded to the frame; the nuts are 10 mm and the lower left nut is missing! I first had to detach all the wiring that leads into what I think is the engine control panel. There is enough play in the lines and wiring that I could tilt the tank upward, remove the plug at the end of the tank, and add the pentosin. I used a kitchen baster (note: never use your wife's expensive William Sonoma baster/injector....) and filled the tank to the top arm of the plus sign. I tested four open to close cycles and the top seems to be working very well now. So has anyone seen this alternate configuration for a cabrio hydraulic pump? Anyone have information on how it should 'officially' be done? Thanks, Tim Las Vegas, NV 2003 996 C2 cabriolet with just over 152k miles.
  17. Experienced this code and tried a new gas cap; just got the code again this past weekend. Is there a method by which I can isolate which part of the ventilation system is leaking or just 'pick-and-replace' until I get the right one? Tim 2003 996 C2 Cabriolet
  18. Sorry to hear about the collision; I've been hit twice too. The first was another driver's ignorance of basic physics (only one object can occupy any given point at a given time); the second a rear end while waiting at a stop sign. I've had that experience where a large truck in front of me began backing up. I was fortunate that I stopped far enough behind it that the driver heard my warning horn and stopped in time. I've wondered how it would go if he had backed into me and then claimed I rear-ended him?
  19. Bill, Thank you for your input. Fortunately, I won't have to incur a $30 expense to get a manual as Porsche was thoughtfull enough to include a free copy with the purhcase of the car; I thought I was lucky to get them to throw in the floor mats. However, what about the sentence immediately preceeding the three bullet points included in your post? "If the engine fails to start after 10 to 15 seconds of cranking: " This sentence is from page 66 too, two carriage returns above those bullet points you quote. Because of a colon at the end of the sentence, which usually is used to define a list or a subset, I understand those three bullets are the steps to be followed only in the event the engine fails to start after 10 or 15 seconds, not the general start-up practice. I have a code indicating a failing cat. I have also recently read a post on this forum with an ubsubstantiated claim that idleing the car at start up can damage the cat. My 996 happens to be one that has a noisy lifter on start up, so I usually let the car idle until the lifter 'quiets down,' which is typically a few minutes. This was the advice I received from a well regarded indie here in Las Vegas. Cats are expensive ($1400 + quote from Sunset); so short of tracking down the technical writer responsible for the owner's manual supplied with each 2003 996 sold in North America to clarify the intended grammatical use of that sentence that ends with a colon, I would like a definitive answer so I may avoid 'killing another cat' if in fact that practice is harmfull to it.
  20. I've received two very different, though equally assertive, views about the starting procedure for my 996: start the car car and go, keeping under 4.5k RPMs for five minutes; the second is the 'old school' practice of letting the car idle until it has 'warmed'-up' before driving. I'm just wondering what other member's method is as their start-up practice?
  21. I would like to add my gratitude to everyone at the site who has patiently shared their Porsche knowledge. Have a great 2011. Tim Las Vegas
  22. Here is the link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=607 If that doesn't work, go to the menu just below the Renntech banner and mouse over the 'DIY Menu.' Scroll down and select the 'Porsche TSBs' link. On the first page that loads you'll have to select your model, then page through the bulletins until you find the TSB number. TSB 2469 I think is on the fourth page. Tim.
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