tac27

"HIOFCR" ("Hi, Officer")

Peppermint oil supposedly repels mice. My parents learned about this trick from a neighbor near their cabin; since they have started to use it, the mice, and squirrels, have stayed out of the vehicle and the buildings.

I like the advice to use clear self adhesive shelf liner.....much better than several rolls of painter's tape.

Tim.

I drive my 996 every day, rain or shine. It's a great daily driver and very reliable.

Similiar experience for my '03 996; I now have just under 90,000 miles; The afternoon commute is a great way to unwind between work and home.

It has had a few issues, but no single issue that cost over $1,000; that excludes the one clutch replacement. Plus, if you are interested in performing the maintainance and minor repairs yourself to ease the effect on your budget, there are several on this forum who are friendly, patient, and knowledgeable; they've guided me through several projects.

Tim

I think only the catalytic converters are covered.....but I have no proof of that, just the 'they say.'

Update....

I found an electrical connection that has a plug behind that valve; the other half was tucked neatly behind the throttle body. I happened to find it as I was running my fingers along all that tubing and wiring, from the left side of the engine toward the throttle body; surprise! something not plugged back in. Explains the P10444 code 'open circuit.'

Will the CEL eventually turn off, or do I need to take it to someone who can clear the code from the DME?

Tim.

Really neat thread, thanks for sharing!

Kent at Premier Sports Car in Las Vegas also has experience placing 3.6 L engines in Boxters.

I look forward to hearing how your car runs against a 911.

Tim

Las Vegas

Found the leak: It was in one of the right angle line 'nipples' that exits the AOS body. It was a real gusher.

I used the Uview to refill the system. The pressure gauge never rose above '20.' After I stopped it stayed pegged right at that number, so I'm assuming everthing is 'air tight.' The tool worked really well, only advice is watch the tank from which you are drawing new coolant; close the valve or you loose your vacuum.

Tim.

I also experienced this with my '03 c2; more frustrating because each time I took it to the dealer I got the 'couldn't replicate' answer.

The sending unit completely failed several days before the warranty expired......

Okay, found this picture someone had posted about another issue, but I think it has what I think is the EVAP canister purge valve.

I've circled it in red with an 'arrow.' Not the best art work.......

Thanks,

Tim.

(later edit)

Hey, Hey! found it...

Ah, after reading, and then rereading, I finally caught the sutble difference.

There are two purge valves; one is the 'EVAP canister purge valve' located in the engine compartment (Figure 1 in the diagram) and the other is the 'operating purge valve,' which is located behind the right fender (Figure 7 in the diagram). It is also a bit confusing that the Evap canister purge valve isn't located next to the EVAP canister, but at the opposite end of the car, on top of the engine.

One of the ealier post uses the generic term 'purge valve' to describe both parts at the different locations.

So...I just took a look in the engine bay and there are a lot of hoses. Anyone have a photo showing which one is the EVAP canister purge valve?

I'm thinking it is located, or runs, behind the air intake 'snorkel; is that a correct guess?

Tim

I looked up the code, P0444 and it reads "EVAP Canister purge vavle."

I found this diagram above posted by Loren in another thread; figure one is the EVAP Canister Purge valve. As it trails away from the fuel tank and filling neck, I'm assuming figure one must be near the engine (it is illustrated toward the lower right in the diagram).

This makes sense then that is the error code; I'm thinking the indy mechanic who just replaced my AOS may have bungled something or forgot to reattach something (specifically, whatever figure one attaches to...)

I'm a bit confused between Dwayne and Loren's comments....are there two valves? One above the EVAP cannister (as shown in Loren's picture) and one on top of the engine.

I'm getting the "p0444 tank vent" error code; I just had an indie replace the AOS. Since he was 'fiddlin' around in the engine compartment, Dwayne's comment makes sense if there is a valve 'on top of the engine' too.

If that is the case, where would I find it?

Tim

Las Vegas

Yes, that is what I was going for too; put on my best diplomatic face, but they weren't having any of that.....

Car is just '03 with just under 90,000 miles; its my daily stress relief. I typically participate in one PCA DE and perhpas half a dozen auto crosses annually.

I'm hoping they are easy to install! I've previously replaced the coolant tank, lowered the engine to do that; confidence is high I can get these in. Ordered replacements from Pelican Parts (sorry, Sunset didn't return my online inquiry) they are scheduled for delivery tomorrow.

Thanks for the information and advice.

Tim

Las Vegas

Already checked, the service tech claimed that they did not need to lower the engine to reach the oil sending unit.

I'm not thrilled at a $310 expense, but at least I can replace them myself.

Very nice work....

I've just purchased one of the Uview coolant tool from Amazon. I've got a coolant leak, driver's side, somewhere forward of the engine but certainly behind the jack point.... Can this tool help find the leak by pressurizing the cooling system so I can see where the leak is?

Thanks,

Tim

Las Vegas

I've puchased the workshop manuals from 'porschelibrarian.'

Anyone know which Workshop Manual Group has the instructions for replacing or repairing (if possible) the engine mounts? I've looked through, but must have overlooked it.

I'm also trying to find the 'Workshop Equipment Manual' was it included in the set of manuals I purchased from porschelibrarian?

Thanks,

Tim

Las Vegas

I had an interesting experience when placing my 996 on jackstands today.

I'm chasing a small coolant leak and decided to get the car up in the air, remove the left rear tire, and snoop around under the car to see if I can spot what is leaking.

I've always used the method illustrated by Orient; I use the area (I'm not sure what to call it) shown in Orient's picture that is immediately behind the engine sump cover. As I raised the car, large amounts of oil began pouring from the car on both sides. Upon inspection (this included removing the airbox) the oil was coming from the underside of the engine mounts, running down the long nut and bolt, dripping onto the exaust pipe, and then onto the garage floor. Both mounts were 'leaking' thought the mount on the passenger side appeared to be loosing more fluid/oil.

Anyone experience this before?

I know this is cliche, but my warranty just expired August 31! Before it expired I had the dealer replace the oil sending unit. Do they lower the engine to replace that part? I'm wondering if they did something to the mounts.

Tim

Las Vegas

"So, even if you dont need to change the rotors, do you have to resurface them? Or..?"

My understanding is that you need to resurface the rotors if they have become 'uneven,' 'warped,' or gouged/grooved. I believe this is called 'runout.' I have replaced the rear pads on my 996 and determined then that the rotors did not need replacement, or even resurfacing.

Referreing to Loren's post above, if there are no cracks, the rotor is not less than the minimum thickness, and the runout is also even you don't need the added expense of replacing the rotors.

The tools you'll need to determine the continued servicability of your current rotors are a good eye to inspect for cracks (I borrowed my children's magnifying glass), a mircometer to measure the rotor thickness, and a run-out gauge to determine if the rotor's friction surfaces are still even; the latter two tools can easily be found by a google search.

Someone has previously posted what the minimimum thickness is for rotors, you'll have to search the forum as I don't remember what they are for rear rotors.

I also opted for the Mintex pads; I found through research that both Mintex and Pagid are divisions of the same company, TMD Friction. Mintex has been in the business of brake pads for a long time, 100 years according to the website. I haven't had any problems with, or complaints about, them.

One lesson I learned was that the buffers for the rear are two different sizes, 30 mm and 28 mm, two each per caliper for a total of eight (four 30 mm and four 28 mm).....nothing like getting everthing disassembled and realizing I didn't order enough parts.....

Just figuring out how to post pictures.

I had tried to insert this picture in an above post; for some reason my desktop will not complete the upload process, but my laptop will...

Computers and coolant expansion tanks will be the death of me.....

2003 C2 Cabriolet.

I'm having a problem getting the new tank back into place.

I cheated in removing the old tank...it absolutely refused to surrender its position; nothing like a Dremel and a sharp cutting bit. Unfortunately I can't repeat that step to install the new tank.

Like Niacal4nia, I only had the one bold ontop of the fuel collector; I've also removed the air pump and all of the hoses. But that tank just wont fit into that spot. Unlike Niacal4nia, I am uncomfortable removing an engine mount bolt and lowering the engine.

I was able to insert the tank into its proper place by removing the tank support; but that leads to the problem of getting the tank support into its spot while the tank is sitting there. Specifically, how do I attach the two bolts, each sitting inside what I would call cups that are accessible only from the bottom, the space which the tank is occupying.

I attempted to include some pictures, but the attachment/upload editor isn't working; if anyone can clue me into how to include pictures I have a whole bunch I can share.

Anyone had any experience doing this with an '03? My car, which I rely upon as a daily driver, is sitting in pieces; I could really use some help.

I'm trying to track down a strange sound that I have began hearing; I'm wondering if someone else has experienced something similiar and can share.

The best I can describe it is that the sound is very similiar to blowing across an empty Coke bottle (the old glass type); the pitch and tone is even very similiar.

I drive a '03 996 cabriolet and I have not noticed the noise while the top is in the 'up' position; I really only notice it when driving around the turns inside the parking garage where I work when the top is down.

My general impression is that it is comming from the rear of the car and it typically will only last for three or four seconds.

It doesn't appear to be the same tempo with the engine; If I speed up, slow down, or just blip the throttle, the sound doesn't speed up, slow, or 'blip.' Also, I have tried braking to see if that stops it; sometimes it does, other times it doesn't, but when I can bring the car to a complete stop the sound stops too.

Lastly, it doesn't occur very often, maybe once or twice a month.

Thanks

Tim

Las Vegas

I just had this happen again about four times in quick succession over the course of two miles and about 3-4 minutes, with each warning lasting about five seconds. Of course when I had it at the dealer just before the CPO expired they couldn't find anything wrong. I plugged my OBD II reader in and there are no codes.

I've had a similar experience. I've taken it to both the dealer and an indie with the sam results: no code, no problem detected, and 'unable to replicate' during a test drive. I'm assuming that the dealer and indie are using the appropriate system testing device (the PST2/PIWIS vs. a OBD II).

The 'idiot' light doesn't illuminate, just the message on the screen about an indicator failure. I have also seen the pressure guage needle rapidly bounce from the 0 to the 5 for a few moments without any message or indicator light. Each occurence, I curb and manually check the oil; its always near the top notch on the 'stick.

Geoff,

Do you have a full lift, or did you only use jackstands while replacing the clutch?

I have an '03 996 Cab C2 that is nearly due for a new clutch; I'm debating whether to attempt the installation myself.

Tim.