siddharth

x5rap,

can you share your exp. with your warranty company?

i have a MY01 996 and looking for a warranty company.

thanks

I'd also benefit from the info x5rap is looking for ... I'm in the same situation.

Sell it, if it has the 3.4l engine like mine you will be buying a new engine soon. I believe the engine is only good for 40-50k miles you are living on borrowed time. Ignore any other posts. many porsche owners and many on this site have drank the kool-aid about how great porsche is, but when that engine blows and it will you will be looking at around 20,000 dollars. Porsche paid for half of mine, but I think this is thier cover-up tactic. If you search you will find many whose engines failed and the funny thin is you can never get a good reason why. I believ thier is a major defect in the cam shaft bearing housings. If you wanted to see if that is the problem you could probably detect the slop in the flywheel.

I love my car, but don't believe you can depend on the 3.4l engine must pass 40k.

Sounds like you have had good luck and I would not push it.

Huh ? My friend has a 3.4L 996 with over 105kmiles on it. Its going fine so far. I have 55k Miles on mine. Maybe you're paranoid about the 3.4L engines ...

Anyway, I'm thinking that mostly that CEL is due to the MAF or O2 sensors. I had a CEL sometime back and cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor and its been fine and dandy since then. An $8 fix ! But yeah ... like Loren says, drive to AutoZone and borow their OBD2 reader. The OBD2 port is near the drivers left knee.

I didn't know this autozone thingy and spent $110 by having my dealer read those codes to me. The most stupid way I've ever blown $100 ... I can buy an OBD2 reader for that cost....

Hope its nothing major,

Sid

I posted this question in a reply to the below post, but realized I probably should ask it in a new post so as to not hijack the thread.

So here it is: when I had my ppi done on my 99 996 c2 the coolant was a quart low, but there was no coolant light flashing to indicate this. On my boxster the coolant light would flash if the coolant level was just a little under the "min" mark. Is there a way to check the functionality of the dash coolant light? Could it just be that my sensor was bad (a new one is on route, just for good measure). My fear is that someone in the past tinkered with the system to try and mask a larger problem (like a blown head gasket!). Any input would be great. Thanks, Scott.

I'm no expert at this but I'd imagine that if you had a blown head gasket, you'd see some oil/black residue in your coolant tank. Also if you had a blown head gasket, your cylinder compression tests would reveal that.

I could be wrong, but it'd be easier to do a compression test and rest your fears than keep hunting for something. Anyways I think during the PPI they do a compression test, so you should be covered (you DID the PPI, right ?)

Also, check the DIY section on how to replace a coolant tank. I added stuff I learnt from my adventure - hope that helps you !

Sid

I would add the following to help others attempting this ... please read the above and the below completely BEFORE starting your work. You'll thank yourself !

Getting the tank out

1. I'd remove the air pump instead of tying it to the side as above. Its very simply and takes 30-40 seconds. It gives you room you REALLY need. Plus you won't break the air hose by bending it too much.
   NOTE: There are two screws that hold the air pump in place - at the bottom. In my case I found out that the nut thse screws go into had fallen off during removal. The nuts are 'suspended' in a rubber tube and age/temperature had made the rubber brittle and the nut had just fallen when I took the screw out. I simply got new speed nuts (2x : part number: 999.500.078.00 : $2) and used them to fit the air pump back again. Its worth taking the air pump off even if you now need to buy $2 more of nuts when ordering your tank - it gives you a lot of room you need !
   
2. To remove the coolant reservoir easily out of its harness, slide it towards the engine (i.e. move right) by around 1/2 to 1 inch. Then move it DOWN and out of its rail/holder. There is no need to slide it COMPLETELY (3-4") towards the engine completely as it first appears. The railings have tabs and gaps to facilitate such removal/installation. You probably won't even have that much room to slide it out completely !
   
3. When draining the coolant from below the car, you'll need a bucket to keep most of the coolant and may need to empty the tray below into the bucket. Use 2 trays so you can empty one when the other is below the car. The coolant drains fast, so you can't use just one without making a mess. Also, there is a lot of coolant, almost a bucketfull.
   
4. Coolant is a corrosive liquid - keep it off the paint. If you drop some on the paint, don't panic, just wipe it off with water and a cloth. Use gloves if possible.
   
5. The drain plug for the coolant is close to the rear bumper, don't search too deep inside near the transmission etc !
   
6. There is a coolant level sensor at the bottom of the coolant tank. Its deep and tough to see and you may break it manupulating the tank of get it out of the engine compartment. I'd recommend you reach down and remove it as follows.
   - when reachable, turn the sensor by 1/4 turn from towards you to towards the engine.
   - pull the sensor out from the bottom (it needs 2" to fall out, its 2.5" tall).
   - keep it somewhere !
   If you do break it (likely), its around 10-18 bucks, so don't panic !
   
7. Lastly, be patient in getting the tank out. Its not difficult but simply time consuming. Be careful not to bend/break other hoses while you try getting the coolant tank out.
   

Putting the new tank back in place

1. When installing the new tank, I found it easy to first install the sensor at the bottom and then twist-lock it (1/4 turn). The electrical connection should point towards the right taillight.
   
2. First try to get the entire tank in the volume reserved for it in the engine compartment. Don't try to directly fit it in.
   
3. Make sure you don't leave any tubes/connectors behind the tank during installation. The last think after installation is to realise you need to get it out to rescue a forgotten tube.
   
4. Now you want to get the tank back in its harness. The harness' as well as the tank's railings have gaps to ease removal/installation. What worked good for me was
   1. 
      
   2. rotate the tank anti-clockwise by 10-20 degrees when inside the cavity/volume of engine compartment
      
   3. position the right most tab of the tank sticking out of the harness while keeping the other two tabs (on the tank's top) positioned to fall in the gaps between the harness' tabs. Try feeling the gaps with your finger to know where the tank's tabs should land.
      
   4. Slide a 1.5" diameter metal tube at the bottom (running front -> back) slightly to the left (or right?) so that the level sensor wouldn't be obstructed upon rotation. It should gently slide out of its holder.
      
   5. Now level the tank (i.e. rotate it clockwise by 10-20 degrees). The tank's tabs should have fallen where the harness' gaps are and the tank will be one tab sticking out (out = towards the engine)
      
   6. Finally move the tank gently away from the engine, in its final installed position
      

[*] Slide the metal pipe back into its clamp

[*] Connect everything else just the reverse as removal.

After everything is installed

Once you have the new tank in place, you will need to refill it with coolant and 'bleed' the coolant system. Fill the coolant tank with existing/new (porsche recommended) coolant to the max level and close the coolant tank lid. I simply filtered my existing coolant with a old (but clean) cotton t-shirt and poured it in using a funnel. Then, to quote Loren, "Lift the bleed valve."

"Start the engine and allow it to get to full operating temperature (I also ran the air conditioning to force circulation). The coolant warning light will likely start to flash. Shut the engine off and WAIT until the engine and coolant has cooled enough to remove the coolant tank cap. Then add coolant to the tank and repeat the process. You made need to do this 2-3 times. When the coolant level fails to fall then the system is bled and you can close the bleeder valve."

About bleeding the coolant system.

• Close the bleeder value after about 40 minutes (total) of good driving. You shouldn't ride with it open for more than this (my Porsche tech told me this).
  
• You MUST wait for the coolant to cool between your 2-3 tries, else you won't be filling the tank completely (coolant contracts as it cools). I've had to wait for over 3 hours to cool. If you try before this then the coolant will spill off when you open the cap.
  
• You may get a coolant light even with the bleeder valve closed after a few days. This is ok and doesn't mean you cracked your tank or something again. Basically there was some air trapped and the car "burped" it into the coolant reservoir, triggering off the coolant light. Wait for 4 hours for the car to cool and then top off with coolant+water (replacing a lot) or just water (replacing just a little).
  
• If even after 3-4 top offs/"burps" you need to keep adding coolant, have it checked for other leaks in the coolant system.
  

In the end, once you've done it, please pat yourself on the back !! Great job :thumbup: !! Even my service tech. at the local dealership said its not a simple job. Its worth doing it on your own if you suspect you're losing coolant.

:cheers:

Sid

Here are the cracks in my Boxster tank.

You have the old cap, so replace it.

If it were me I would replace the suspect tank since it is already out.

Thanks toolpants !! The picture helped me a lot to find the crack on my coolant tank. Here it is:

I took it to the dealership and they too confirmed it to be cracked and recommended that I put in a the newer tank, newer cap, a new sensor and new coolant.

My coolant tank should arrive from sunset late next week, so till then the car is lonely in the garage ! BTW, sunset will save me almost $100 against my local dealership (which is one of the inexpensive ones in southern california!).

One final question before wrapping up ... should I put in newer coolant or reuse the existing drained coolant ? I've attached a photo of my drained coolant.

One technician told me to reuse another told me to put in new. He did mention that the new will mix with the existing trapped in the system (since I didn't do a pressure flush) but said its still better than just reusing the existing one.

What do you guys think ??

BTW, the coolant in the photo appears very dark but the coolant is green when in a shallow cup and there isin't any oil or even suspended stuff. I guess when seeing over 1 foot in depth of coolant it appears dark. But this is normal I suppose ??

cheers!

Sid

Hi guys,

I had to add almost 1Liter of water the other day to get rid of the check coolant level flashing light on the dash. This is after the dealer put some 3 weeks back to top off (it was flashing back then too).

Anyway after yesterday's addition of 1 liter of water, I thought the coolant tank might be cracked as most others reported. So I ventured out to inspect mine. Well, after a lot of backbreaking effort I managed to get the coolant tank out. And I think in the process I broke the coolant level sensor. Either that or it was broken from before (the plastic base is broken)

Now, the thing I found was that I couldn't really identify any crack on the coolant tank !!!

Q1) Is there a problematic area I should look closer at ?

Q2) Also, given this tank is prone to cracking (from what I read), how are the cracks ? Hairline or wide ? The car body around the coolant tank didn't look corroded/spoilt - just dusty and dirty.

The current parts I have are

Coolant Sensor : 99664150300 (I need a new one).

Coolant Cap : 99610644700

Coolant Tank : 99610614756

Q3) Should I really replace any part with a newer part now that I've opened things up ?

Q4) If you think the coolant tank/cap is ok, what else should I look at ?

Q5) Is it normal to lose coolant like this ? Am I looking for a problem that doesn't exist ??

Thanks guys !!

:cheers:

Sid

If there hasn't been a miscommunication with the dealer, I would find a new one.

There is no way to remove the amber from your main headlight units. The parts you talk about above are only the small corner triangles. The yellow is molded into the main headlight units.

Hmm ... I guess I'll leave the lamps as they are. I thought it might be a small job and for less than $200-150. I'll change them when there is a stronger reason !

thanks guys

Sid

You need new headlights.

Either Clear halogen headlights lights or Litronics. 911 headlights have been clear since 2000, Boxters have been clear since 2003. There is no way to remove the yellow in the lights you show because it is molded in.

Check ebay. A pair of used Clear halogens go for $600, a pair of used Litronics go for $950.

Thanks for that. My local dealership said that it can be done without changing the whole lamp. They said I'd need to disassemble the lamp and replace with the following parts.

Parts required (unverified) :

996-631-04500 (left)

996-631-04600 (right)

Cost ~$30 (USD) each.

Sunset told me that I'd need to order the entire headlamp assembly on each side. I'll write more when I get more details ...

Siddharth

My new Aerokit II front bumper (AKA GT3) is being installed as you read (side skirts are being painted at same time, but I'll be installing in a week or so)

Has anybody installed the GT3 Chin Spoiler also? Mine was not included and I've been looking around for the part number.

Thanks!

You can see the part I'm looking for at the bottom of Al Vogl's car:

How did you get rid of the yellow turn indicators inside the headlamp housing case ? I'm putting clear side marker lights on my 1999 996, to get rid of the yellow plastic on the sides this weekend but was kinda not sure if the headlamp's yellow plastic/glass can be done with for clear stuff. Looking at your car's front end, it appears that can be done.

So ... how did you do it and what parts were required ?

To know what yellow plastic lights I'm talking about check this ... very similar to my car

Thanks

Sid

I agree the OEM kit is the way to go just had it installed on my '99 996 front bumper and skirts only. Just beware of Departstop on E-bay and LA Porsche Dismantellers. I would try sunset, suncoast and brandywine.

What about installation ? Is it doable on your own or best left to the dealership ? Any guides ? I like Loren's aerokit. Is there a name for that kind of a kit ?

1. Yes.

2. Yes.

3. No, not at this time.

4. No, not at this time. But is has been suggested to them. ;) ;)

Ah. Thanks !

Sid

I went thru that other thread and had a few questions ... not sure which thread I should pick, this or that ... oh well ...

1. Does this tool also read/clear the P-codes ? I'm thinking of buying a OBD2 reader and if this does it I might as well buy this tool instead.

2. Does it plug into the OBD2 port or some other port on the car ?

3. Does this tool display performance metrics (0-60, rpm etc) similar to the DigiMoto tool ?

4. Does this tool capture logs as you drive with the wires connected to the (secured) laptop

:cheers:

Sid

There are a number of adjustments to the door windows - about 4 pages devoted to it in the service manual. Regulators are know to wearout or go bad.

So you're saying my best bet is to turn the car in and have them fix it for ~$480 ? Its a legitimate suggestion, I just wanted to be sure that's what you mean !

Also, do you know the page numbers of that in the service manual ?

- Sid

Anybody knows what might be the issue ?

So many views but no replies :(

Hi guys,

I'm having a new problem with my '99 996 C2.

When I try opening the passenger door with the window fully closed/raised, the door doesn't open because the top right corner of the window glass jams, being a little behind the rear fixed window glass. I need to lower the passenger window by 1-2 inches and then it opens properly. The dealership said that the window regulator is at fault and would charge me ~$480 to fix it. I'm hoping its something I can do on my own with your help !

The problem is much more noticable when opening the door from the inside than outside. And in either case, the window DOES drop by ~1 centimeter (1/2 inch) when I pull on the handle.

Details:

I've made a quick diagram since its slightly weird to explain. The diagram is attached to this message.

Basically, the vertical edges between those two pieces of glass SHOULD be parallel, but whats happening is that as I raise the passenger window, the glass tilts backwards and ends up finding itself about 1-2mm BEHIND the fixed smaller rear window. The usual distance is around 4 mm between the glass' vertical edges with the rubber seal behind/between them. This gap is properly maintained at the lower end of the windows and looks same as the driver's side (which is perfect).

Do you guys know what the problem is and maybe recommend a fix towards it ?

Is it really the window regulators ? Must I replace them or are they adjustable ?

Thanks in advance !

Sid

When you have the opportunity, point your front wheel closest to the curb toward the curb. If you live where it's hilly, it provides an additional safety catch. I've noticed when I leave my car on a hill and come back to it (in gear), ocassionally it will have moved slightly because my wheel is tight against the curb (the rubber, not rim), whereas I had an inch or two when I parked it. FYI...

I might want to chip in.

I had parked on an incline with the car facing uphill and with the hand brake up (but not pulled really hard) and the car in the 3rd gear. My girlfriend was in the car when I ran inside to get my cellphone. The car actually slipped backwards by almost 4-5 feet !! My girlfriend sorta panicked and got out of the car to call for me (instead of hitting the brakes - different story) and I was lucky that there wasn't a tree/car behind me. I got in and hit the brakes JUST in time.

Lesson learnt.

1. The car can still creep backwards even if in 3rd (or higher) gear. I've started using only the first/reverse gear.

2. The hand brake NEEDS to be yanked pretty hard to be 100% effective.

3. On steep slopes (like outside my house) you need a combination of 1st/reverse gear + handbrake + tyres towards the curb.

4. After I park on an incline, I always pause for a couple of seconds looking if the car is slipping away !

hope that helps,

Sid

Unfortunately, dealers have to charge for any services they provide...it's how they make a living. I highly recommend you use this as well as other forums to learn about ways to self diagnose if you have the time and inclination. Also, I would not assume that you need a MAF...that is the "easy" assumption. Could be something else as well. I've had a dealer install a MAF only to find that I actually needed to replace a chip. 2 weeks of hassle due to misdiagnosis. Best of luck!

Which chip did you need to switch ? Also what OBD2 codes did you get at that time ? I got

P1128 and P1130 (rich air/fuel mixture, both cylinder banks). I'm hoping that the MAF cleanup works.

:cheers:

Sid

The chip in question was for an '87 Targa. I had an aftermarket MAF on it and the shop said the hesitation was due to the "junk" aftermarket MAF hot film sensor. They put on the OE airbox...except...that didn't fix the problem...and billed me $600. Eventually I was able to diagnose this, with help of Autothority, as a faulty chip. Got a new chip and bingo...no problem. Then...asked the shop back for their money and returned their OE airbox. It was a nightmare...but I did resolve it!

Now...regarding the code...I did get the P1128. I cleaned the MAF and used Techron and that resolved the issue...for now. The sad part of this story is that tomorrow will be my last day with that C4. I'll be driving an Audi S4 instead...kids are too big for the backseats...

:(

I cleaned the MAF yesterday. I bought the T20 head with a hole in the middle "tamper resistant toric heads" and an electrical contact cleaner, solvent based and no-residue type. You can find these things at autozone or any other shop. Be careful in picking up the right contact cleaner - I almost picked up a electrical grease cleaner right next to the electroNIC contact cleaner (which is what I want). I can't recall the name but its red and white and has a car electrical socket picture on the can.

So anyway, I disconnected the battery, removed the MAF and sprayed the cleaner on the back side where I saw a 'resistor like' sensor. Thinking of it, I didn't really clean the film in the gap, on the other side where the resistor thing was. So maybe I didn't do a complete job of it. I guess I'll just spray the cleaner all over the whole thing today too. Didn't have the CEL come up, but its just been a day.

I was thinking of also checking the air filter and the air box as such. I unscrewed all the screws around the air box but the air box cover didn't want to get off. It seemed like I was missing something. Any instructions on how to open the air box and examine the air filter ?

Sid

Unfortunately, dealers have to charge for any services they provide...it's how they make a living. I highly recommend you use this as well as other forums to learn about ways to self diagnose if you have the time and inclination. Also, I would not assume that you need a MAF...that is the "easy" assumption. Could be something else as well. I've had a dealer install a MAF only to find that I actually needed to replace a chip. 2 weeks of hassle due to misdiagnosis. Best of luck!

Which chip did you need to switch ? Also what OBD2 codes did you get at that time ? I got

P1128 and P1130 (rich air/fuel mixture, both cylinder banks). I'm hoping that the MAF cleanup works.

:cheers:

Sid

You've got mail....

I hate saying "me too" ... but honestly, me too ! I'm in the same boat with P1128 and P1130. $111 at the dealer to tell me those two codes.... aagh :( !!!

Sid

How do you clear the CEL light ? I don't have a OBD2 reader (yet) and was wondering if disconnecting the battery would work ?

Yes, that will work but you won't know what the problem is and it won't correct the problem. Autozone will read your code for free.

Also, any recommendations on a good OBD2 reader ?

Upper right corner of the page click on "Reviews"

Oh man ... I paid the local porsche dealership $110 to tell me what the code means ("diagnosis charge") ... I literally paid for my ignorance :eek:

So Loren, do I have to tell Autozone anything for that free readout ? Just for future references, till I get the OBD 2 reader. BTW, I still don't know the actual error code, but the service guy told me "you need a new mass air flow sensor" (among other things). I'll ask him for the exact error codes tomorrow to make a more informed decision...

About the OBD 2 reader, it looks like the carcode is highly recommended. I guess I'll go for that one then. I'm just surprised how primitive their website is ... at least compared to how great their software has been rated ....

Thanks guys, I'll hopefully know the error codes tomorrow (for $110 ... where is the crying 'smiley' !?!)

Sid

I just had the same problem on my brother's 2000 C4. See the attached. The button is on the underside.

Wow, I fiddled with that thing and could feel it underneath...why on earth would someone design the clip so the button isn't visible? :cursing:

I had cleared the CEL and all has been well the last few weeks. Tonight, pulling into the garage, it came on again. Wasn't my day today. Thanks for the info.

How do you clear the CEL light ? I don't have a ODB2 reader (yet) and was wondering if disconnecting the battery would work ?

Also, any recommendations on a good ODB2 reader ?

:cheers:

Sid

i recently had the eclipse avn 2454 double din installed in my car, the climate control and storage cubby moved down. it looks money. the eclipse units are really pretty cool. their nav system interface is one of the best i have ever used. i also hooked up 8 disc changer in the front trunk. the unit has a bult in dash cd player. i also hooked up xm to it. it also has a dvd player with dolby digital 5.1 (i will never use this but i have to admit it sounds awesome through the audison amps and focal polyglass with the 5ws subs.)

the unit has 6 dsp settings (i never use) and a dsp sound field modulator to optimize stereo imaging to any spot in the car.

i have been VERY impressed with this unit

eclipse customer support sucks so make sure you have guts and kind of know what you are doing with the install. i am happy to help anyone who asks.

overall it looks amazing. people keep telling me how oem it looks. i am ver happy with the result!

if anyone can tell me how to post pics, ill take some today and put them up.

cheers

Oh great ! Then I have some questions for you :) ...

1) How did you manage to secure the double din player in that spot ?

2) After installing the double din tightly/securely, how did you manage to cover up the gap between the player edges and the rest of the console trim ? As far as I know none of the porsche trims can be used/reused towards this job.

:cheers:

Sid

if you need pics, just do a search on eclipe and nav. plenty of ppl have done this.

Actually I couldn't find a picture of the final installation searching for eclipse and nav. In fact I noticed that most were asking the same question and nobody's really documented a double DIN installation like the other DIY mods. Seems like a lot of people were confused. I don't blame them (=me included!) ... there is no "porsche approved way" and trying to figure out custom wiring, custom mounting as well as a custom trim finish from scratch isin't intuitive. Maybe for the high end audio shops ... but not to me :( !

If you do know the search pattern/link, could you post it here ? It'd be nice.

Anyway ... I'm thinking of going this route sometime this summer. If I do and its successful, I'll try do document this into a DIY.

I must be doing something wrong...cant upload pics. Stand by.

Any pictures ?

Wow ... I cannot believe nobody at renntech has tried this before ??!!

No offense meant to anyone, but does becoming a paying member improve my chances that someone replies ?

Cheers ! :cheers:

Sid

Well, everyone contributing or not can use the Search feature here... and when I searched for "double DIN" I got 17 results. Try looking a little further or use search before you complain... ;)

Aaagh ! I hate this ! I was searching for "dual DIN" ... and the only result was my original question itself ! searching for DUAL (not double) DIN brings up the goodies !!

Thanks Loren and sorry for "complaining" !!