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Everything posted by siddharth

  1. Thanks for the response! Come to think of it, I forgot to mention a few things that you raised: - I did replace the fuel cap with a newer cap - this code does keep coming back ... **** P0442! Played this game for several weeks and MANY times :(
  2. Hi guys, I got the CEL and my Durametric read out the error code P0442. Since I've been super busy recently, I did a quick test and then I took the car into a local mechanic shop instead of working on it myself. I understand there are 3 main sections/steps to look deeper into (also check the attached system diagram): P0442 Repair Outline: Section 1. Check "tightness" (i.e. ability to hold vacuum) of shut-off value Section 2. Check ventilation lines for leaks Section 3. Check tightness of EVAP canister purge valve (I did a quick test on Section 3 since I can access this valve from the rear. Testing just the valve seemed to indicate it works alright). The shop seemed to have done only section-1 (from tech's hand notes). Section 1 is basically: 1-a ) Remove front right-hand wheel housing liner. 1-b ) Test the shut-off value (i.e. apply battery voltage and create vacuum -> see if it holds) 1-c ) Replaced the shut-off value (since it didn't hold pressure) Just for 1a-1c, they've have charged me ~3.5 hours in labor @ about $110/hour. That's ~$ 385 in just labor for 1a-1c. This is a 3rd party independent mechanic, California. I have 2 questions 1) I think it should NOT take a professional mechanic, specializing in Porsches, 3.5 hours to do just the section 1 work. That's just my opinion. So, how long do you guys think it should take for a shop to perform just the section 1 repairs? 2) Next, how long do you think it should take to perform the section 2 repairs i.e. check the ventilation lines for leaks? I just got the same error code (P0442) back and since they might have done section1 and I did a quick test on section 3, I might need to revisit the shop to get section 2 done. So some knowledge would be helpful. To those who don't know, section 2 details are at the bottom of this post: This story is far from over ... sigh! Thanks! Sid =============================================== Section 2 details: Use a HC (HydroCarbon) tester and to check the following locations (also check the diagram below) 2-a ) Tank cap 2-b ) Line connections to EVAP canister 2-c ) EVAP canister 2-d ) Line connection to fuel tank sender unit 2-e ) Pressure sensor 2-f ) Opening of fuel filler neck into tank 2-g ) Line connection of EVAP canister purge valve 2-h ) Ventilation lines: 2-h-i ) from EVAP canister to operating purge valve 2-h-ii) from operating purge valve to tank 2-h-iii) from EVAP canister to EVAP canister purge valve Any reading over 1000ppm is bad and under 50 ppm is good.
  3. So I replaced the MAF and the fuel cap. The P0102 hot film MAF error code went away but the Tank Vent Leak code (P0442) came back in a couple of days. Does anyone know where in the technical manual I can find some more information on the piping? I can try to follow that piping/system to see the source of this error ... Thanks! Sid
  4. Thanks Loren. I've verified that it's plugged in. I also looked for fused but I didn't find any blown fuses (in fact there is no fuse for the MAF!!) Between which two pins of the socket (or the MAF itself) should I look for open ckt or short? I can borrow a multimeter ... After much hunting I found the diagram for the MAF. It's so do you know between which two terminals the open circuit/ short circuit might exist? I presume I have to verify this (short/open) on both the wiring plug as well as the MAF sensor socket?
  5. Thanks Loren. I've verified that it's plugged in. I also looked for fused but I didn't find any blown fuses (in fact there is no fuse for the MAF!!) Between which two pins of the socket (or the MAF itself) should I look for open ckt or short? I can borrow a multimeter ... Thanks, this sounds a little involved ... if you have tips, I'm all ears ... otherwise on pelican's website looking at the diagram :) !! And I'll check the fuel cap too!
  6. Hi guys, I got a CEL with P0102 " P0102 : Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor " ... should I just replace the MAF? I replaced the last one about 20k miles back. Also I got a "P0442: Porsche fault code 97 - Tank vent system ". I kinda get this each time I fill gas, so I think it's a gas cap issue. What the fix to the gas cap? The car is a '99 996, C2. Cheers! Sid
  7. Replacement is covered in the service manual - which is what dmcole used. I have several pdfs of the service manual, but the closest thing I find is Group 2, page 28-1. That covers only the switch, not the lock+switch. Would you be kind to point be to the section in the service manual or PM me the directions? That's be helpful ... the switch looks doable, but I can't visualize the lock part very well ...
  8. Hey ... what about part numbers and cost? I just had my switch die on me ad after reading all the posts, I'd like o decide if I should do the quick 'n easy method (just the switch) or the right" method (switch+wheel lock). Thanks Sid
  9. Sid: Assuming you already have the fault code that indicates it's the seat belts (or one of them), you can do the repair without the Durametric, although you will need it to reset the light and it's an excellent tool to have if you DIY. Once you decipher the language in the TSB, it's a very straightforward DIY. As long as you know how to solder, and can follow directions, it should take no more than about 3 hours to do both sides. The dealer can do it in less than 2 hours if they have done it before. Total parts cost is less than $150 IIRC. Regards, Maurice. Dang ... they just called back and mentioned that the computer flagged BOTH sides as faulty. Plus I'm moving over this weekend (i.e. no time) and have a prospective buyer for the car (going back to business school). Looks like I'm going to have to ask them to do it for $870 ... this sucks. Man, this airbag light came on at the worst possible time ... Loren, what is the TSB number? Maurice, do you know which place to buy the parts from? Trying to see if I can REALLY squeeze this in ...
  10. You know, I thought about that ... but then when starting the car, it would light up all the lights except the one without a bulb. Plus I don't know if the car computer would get upset over a missing bulb and log a whole bunch of errors against that ... Ok, so I just got a call from the dealer. He said that they need to replace the 1) seat belt clips (the part fixed onto the seat, neat hips) 2) and the wiring harness under the seat For both drivers and passengers side to fix it. Parts + labor = $870. Does that seem ok or a bit high ?? Also, is it necessary to replace both sides or just one side, the faulty side, would be ok? I didn't confirm yet, but I think its unlikely that both sides would go out at the same time, eh? Edit: Sorry, but last question: Assuming I buy the durametric tool, does anyone know how easy/tough this repair would be a DIY? As always, thanks! Sid
  11. Sid: You can get much better prices on Bosch MAF at www.autohausaz.com, and they also offer free shipping! Excellent customer service too! Regards, Maurice. Wow ... thanks. You saved me some real world beer money!! Ordering it right away from www.autohausaz.com ... can you believe the mark-up??!?
  12. Thanks! I have the older version, with 2 clips on the small edges. Good to know that difference!
  13. Hi folks, Well I've been cleaning up my MAF for the last year but the time between CEL's has been shortening. I guess the cleaner spray can't clean everything back to 100% and the dirt eventually accumulates too much. My last clean (4th one) resulted in a CEL coming back in just 5 days/110 miles. Anyway, it is the same fault codes this time: i.e. new MAF. So I hunted and found some cheap BOSCH MAFs at http://www.autopartsperformance.com/parts/...1698+11921+9359 BUT there are two compatible parts for the 99 996. Anyone knows which one would work on my car? I recall on the Boxster they had come up with a newer MAF design which was more resistant to dirt but then that sensor also required reprogramming the DME/car computer. Now sure if the same is applicable to the 996 too. Anyway, I don't want to reprogram the DME but I still want the latest and greatest MAF - so which one should I buy? Thanks; and cheers! Sid
  14. You know, I thought about that ... but then when starting the car, it would light up all the lights except the one without a bulb. Plus I don't know if the car computer would get upset over a missing bulb and log a whole bunch of errors against that ...
  15. So if I simply clean all contacts will the light eventually go away (assuming it's because of oxidized contacts)? Or do I have to actively do something more to turn off the light? I just got the airbag light during my evening ride, so it's annoying the hell out of me ... What's the cheapest way to turn the **** light off??
  16. I just replaced my brake pads last night with stock ones. Based off what Loren quoted from the Porsche manual, I'm just driving peacefully with no hard braking. 20 miles done, 100 more to go. I don't know, but I'm trusting Porsche engineers over Pagid (who are OEM for Porsche but ..) I also put on new front rotors. Is there a break-in / bedding procedure for new rotors too? On a side note, Loren thanks for the DIY. Great writeups and there is no way I would have done my own pads and rotors without it. Its really easy in hind sight but its a little nervous when you've never EVER worked on brakes before. :cheers: to you !
  17. Ok, this is a 10mm Allen socket. At least for the 1999 C2 996.
  18. Ok, so last night I tried pushing the brake pads away from the caliper so that I can take out the pads and the dampers. I think I was able to push them all the way in but they still won't come out (they are JUST a wee bit longer than the gap.) Since I need to replace my rotors too I'll be taking off the calipers too, so thought I'll take the pads off then. All seemed great but I noticed that Lizard1 mentioned that you should clamp the brake line! I don't want to mess with the hydraulics (more time), so I thought I'd simply take the calipers off the rotors WITHOUT disconnecting the brake line. This is ok, right? Another thing, what is the size of the allen socket that holds the calipers to the body? I'm talking about the 2 bolts per caliper with a hex shaped depression (allen head). I was about to take off the calipers when I realised I don't have the socket (@#$#). cheers guys!
  19. Hi Duncan, That's a great job!! And thanks for the instructions. I'll be doing my pads and rotors when I get them from sunset and thought I'd do the whole caliper repaint thing at the same time. I also noticed that my current caliper's clear coat is peeling, so its a good time! Like you, I too don't want to mess with the hydraulics (too much to do, too little time). I'll be using the G2 caliper kit. Its a brush rather than a spray, so makes it less messy. I'll still use masking take etc. I also noticed several posts on rennlist on caliper paint jobs. Since my car is black, I'm going with yellow calipers and black "Porsche" lettering. I was thinking red calipers and white letters ... till I saw a photo of a black C2 with yellow calipers. It looked great !
  20. Can someone explain this more clearly? I've never worked on a caliper before, so am having difficulty visualizing this. Also, what is a "piston resetting fixture" ? Also, do I have to worry about any caliper piston falling out (how to prevent it?) or bleeding the system? I don't have a pressure pump to bleed the brakes ....
  21. With a large displacement 6 cylinder engine you're going to have a lower rumbly sound. Larger cylinders -> lower revs but more torque. Ferraris have 8 or 12 cylinder engines with each cylinder having less displacement -> can rev more -> sounds like motorcycle. BTW, even though motorcycles have 4 cylinders they are much smaller cylinders and can hence rev even more, upto 14k on sports bikes! So ... I think you could get close with tubi or PSE but you need more cylinders and a high reving engine for the ferrari/sportbike sound. cheers!
  22. Hi folks, I just got a replace brake pads light today morning, so a brake check is on the cards. While I've not yet checked it, it is most likely my fronts that needs replacement and not the rears. However as I dug up information I found that the emergency brakes are drum operated (I used to think they clamped the disks!). Now, my emergency brake lever does feel a little 'loose' and the DIY for the rear pads mention how to tighten the emergency brakes. My question is this : Is there a way of determining whether or not you need to replace the emergency brake shoes? the 2nd question is on painting brake calipers. I'm thinking of painting my calipers red because I love their looks. I didn't find a DIY for that - so is there any material on this? The calipers will be off the rotors but that apart I'd like to minimize how much I disassemble the calipers since I'm going to deal with them the first time (yeah, I'm a brake pad/rotor virgin!). The 3rd question is on whether or not I should 'upgrade' anything since I'll be changing the brakes and rotors. I'm thinking of going OEM 996 - is that a wise choice?
  23. I'd like to add that its best if you also have - a 3/8" universal joint. (so you can bend for reachability - esp for the rear most spark plugs) - a small 3/8" ratcher (the space for movement is tiny!) - a 1/4" universal joint (for reaching to the hex nuts keeping the coil plugs fastened to the engine) Loren, is it ok to hand tighten the plug coil fastening screws (M6x25) ? I can't seem to fit the torque wrench plus my torque wrench doesn't go down till 7.5 ft-lb. I've hand tightened it to "quite hard" (how's that for quantitative measures :) ) Also any tricks to work on the rear most spark plug on the left/driver side? That one seems to be a PAIN to reach ... my fingers are sore and I'm going to try that one tomorrow.
  24. I think he means the airbox ... when you open the rear, its bang in front of you. The airbox houses the airfilter and the mass air flow sensor (and its wire). I don't think you need the line drawings ... I'd recommend you take a print out of this page (or save an offline copy of this page on your laptop in your garage). Then take some time off and just get started on this. What you would see then and having this DIY should get you thru ... I'd believe !
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