spooltime

IMHO no. It looks much better I think. Just curious, how does it look better? I assume it's identical in shape to the plastic piece, but just stamped metal instead.

My front underbody shield is cracked, too. Other than the additional cost, is there any reason not to upgrade to the steel splash shield?

And sadly, you will learn that there are a few missing supplements that are NLA from Porsche. Still, it's mostly complete and an excellent resource.

Thanks! I've the replacement parts on order.

During a routine oil change yesterday, I inspected the condition of the upper engine torque support arm (attaches from passenger side cylinder head to chassis) and noticed that the rubber bushing on the chassis side of the arm was cracked in multiple places. It looks like a pretty straight forward replacement job, but I couldn't find anything here as a DIY for this. Any special pointers on swapping this part out? I know the shop manual says to replace the mounting bolts at the same time. Also, best price I've found so far is about $133 for the torque support. Anyone have a less costly source?

There's zero info on their website about this. If this were a permanent fix and had other verifiable advantages, as well as a track record regarding durability, it is probably worth the asking price. Do you have any personal experience with this unit?

It's taken me quite awhile to get around dealing with this. As noted above, I concluded my Park Assist control module had died. I was able to source a used control module from a salvaged '06 CTTS, my thought being that since it was the exact same year and model as mine, it would already be correctly coded. A new module lists for about $220, and I paid $105 for the used one, so it was worth taking a chance with it and not making a trip to the dealer for coding the unit. Sadly, the PA control unit is buried behind the side panel in the rear luggage compartment. There is some serious diassembly required to be able to remove the side panels, but with two related projects also lined up (rear hatch strut replacements and Dension install), it seemed worthwhile to suffer through disassembling the interior lining of the rear half of the vehicle. If I find the time later, I'll post a DIY rear trim removal tutorial. But for now, here's a shot of the rear compartnent sans trim panels (yes, the rear seatback must be removed in order to remove the trim side panels): If you ever wondered what the mechanicals of the 4-zone air conditioning equipment look like, take a peek: And all of this work just to get to the small PA control unit located at the very bottom with a sliver label on it. It was buried beneath the AC equipment, but with a little wiggling around, I was able to remove the dead unit and install its replacement: Moment of truth after plugging the replacement control module in and starting the vehicle up - it worked!!!!! And I now have my Park Assist back again after living without it for about 4 months. Tomorrow, I will install the Dension unit and then wait for the new seals to come in for the hatch struts. I'm leaving the trim off until all of the rear compartment projects are finished.

Today, with the AC controls set on "Auto" and the temperature on both the driver's side and passenger's side set at 73 degrees, I noted that the driver's sides vents were blowing nice cold air as expected given the outdoor temperature, but the passenger side vents were blowing nice, WARM air. Obviously, there is AC available, it's just not getting to the passenger side. I'm thinking there must be a valve or something under the dash that has failed, but before I take it in for service, can anyone suggest potential causes based on the symptom? I plead ignorance for the most part on HVAC-related stuff. I'd like to point the service writer in the right direction if possible.

In my six months of daily driving my CTTS, the water temperature gauge needle always rises up at full operating tempature to pointing just short of the 180 degree indicator (at the 12:00 position on the gauge), and then basically just stays there without fluctuating. While driving into work this morning, I noticed the needle rise above the 180 mark (to about the 12:03 position if it were a clock) and then drop back to the 180 mark. It did this several times, raising my concern. I get that there will be some fluctuation, but the movement this morning was out of the ordinary for my gauge's normal behavior. It makes me wonder if the thermostat is beginning to stick a little bit, or if maybe one of the fans isn't working the way it should. The vehicle has just over 78K miles on it, so I'm wondering: i) what the normal life expectancy is on the thermostat; and ii) whether it makes sense to do a preventative replacement of the thermostat now rather than waiting until it fully goes and getting myself stranded somewhere? FWIW, the engine already had the coolant pipe update done before I purchased the vehicle. Any insight or thoughts appreciated.

FWIW, there is now a 5/2013 Navigation DVD update available. I posted the part number in another thread earlier this year. If you purchase the update from a vendor such as Suncoast Porsche, they send you the entire box that a Porsche dealer receives - that includes the firmware update discs you may need as well as the new maps DVD. Follow the steps in the TSB as someone said, and you'll be good to go. My PCM2.1 is up-to-date as of May 2013; when I bought my Cayenne back in March of this year, the DVD map disc installed was the one that was in it when the car sold as new back in 2006 and my house wasn't even on the map. It was that old . . .

Here are the technical specs for the OE Beru plug (source = Beru website): Product Spark Plug Type Ultra Code designation Z 185 Type designation 14 F-6 DPUR021 Order No. 0 001 340 908 Installation Information: Recommendation - When changing the spark plugs on vehicles with connector ignition coils, please replace the connector and use spark plug connector grease (ZKF 01 - Order No. 0 890 300 029) to fit the connector. Tightening Torque [Nm] 25 Port Type SAE Thread Length [mm] 19 Thread Size M 14x1,25 Spanner Size 16 mm Spark Plug 1 - Earthed Electrode Electrode Gap [mm] 0,8 So the correct gap is .8mm. Also, the "20" coils are indeed the latest iteration of the coil part number. You'll probably be amazed at the improvement in your engine's performance once you've done the plugs and coils. I know I was.

Pretty sure the part number is 955 504 235 01, list price of $276.57.

Both my front and rear under body protection plates currently need replacement. The front one has a huge crack in it (been there since I bought the pig), and I'm pretty sure the rear one was broken at the dealership (discovered it was now being held in place at the rear with tylocks; it certainly wasn't like that the most recent time I was under the vehicle prior to the dealer visit. Since the metal front protection plate is only incrementally more expensive than the plastic version, I think it's probably worth spending the extra bucks on. You wouldn't believe some of the crap you see on the roadways around here. Thanks for sharing the pictures, they sold me.

Ouch, just ordered a set of genuine Porsche discs for the front and rear of my CTTS. I suppose I can take some consolation knowing that those 911 drivers with factory ceramic discs get a list price of over $7,000 each on front disc replacements; the just over $500 each I paid for my front discs pale in comparison. :)

Joy! After further digging around some other Cayenne documentation I've accumulated, I found what I need to do this. Look like an incredible amount of collateral disassembly just to remove the panels. I can only imagine what a shop would charge to do this.

Amazingly, the factory shop manual does not have instructions for R&R of the side panels lining the rear luggage compartment. I'm planning to swap out the Park Assist control unit with one from a salvaged '06 CTTS to see if that will bring my Park Assist back to life. Already checked the fuse which was okay, and there's no fault code indicated by the Durametric because it can't communicate with the Park Assist module. That makes me think the module is dead. Anyway, the module is located behind the side panel on the driver's side. I'd like to be able to remove it without breaking stuff, so if anyone can point me to a DIY, I'll appreciate it. Some info I did find online suggests that at one point earlier, there may have been an access "door" in the driver's side panel, but that's certainly not the case in my CTTS.

Unless that's the total for a pair, that price is significantly more than I can buy the factory front discs for. If that is for a pair, who is the vendor at that price?

I just look at my key and after looking at your picture, realized mine is missing the red panic button too. Must be a common problem. At least you have your loose parts to try to reattach. Mine were apparently missing when I bought the vehicle.

Maybe for the regular turbo 350mm discs, but unfortunately I can't seem to find any lower cost options for the 380mm CTTS front discs.

Pads will be done, too. Pad have maybe 35% - 40% of their friction material remaining. Looks like a prior owner may have done pads previously, but skipped doing the discs at the same time.

While replacing a defective ABS speed sensor yesterday, I took disc thickness measurements of the two front discs on my CTTS. The disc shows minimum thickness spec as 36mm. Both measured in at about 35.7mm. Obviously, I've got to do the brakes in the relatively near future, but I'm wondering how much more I can let these wear down before I'm putting my safety at risk? 35mm? Or should I just plan on biting the bullet and popping for the uber-expensive multi-part front discs now? Are there any alternative discs available?

The new 2013 part number for the upgarde (PCM2.1, DVD navigation) is 997 044 903 51. The package also contains the PCM software updates, in addition to the new map DVD, if your unit requires a software update prior to using the new map update. Installation instructions are not included, but there are some TSBs available on this site that walk you step by step through the update/upgrade process. Just another great reason why it pays to be a supporting member of this site . . . .

I just installed the May of 2013 DVD map update to my PCM2.1 unit. Your Nav unit will require an software update to version "B" if it doesn't already have it as a result of doing the 2009 map update. I know the map update isn't inexpensive, but when you're constantly using your nav unit, it's nice knowing the maps are current within the last few months.

The correct tire size to use is 275/40/20. A "45" profile tire is nearly an inch too much overall diameter.

A further update. After sorting out my Durametric issues, I got a P1327 fault code, which is a "no communication/signal" with control module. Further that terminals 5 and 15 were inactive. I'm pretty sure that means the module itself died. Replacing the module looks easy, but it does require coding to the vehicle, which I'm pretty certain the Durametric can't do. Am I missing anything here?