spooltime

That's good to know. Since I'm thinking the PA control unit died, is it possible that since the control unit is effectively "offline", that there's nothing for Durametric to survey related to the PA system? Or should it tell me there's a problem with the PA control unit? Also, the PA on/off switch in the overhead console is just dead - no power on/off illumnation. Again, I've already checked the fuse and confirmed it's good.

I have the current software version installed. It shows the PA module when I bring the program up manually, before hooking up the vehicle, but when I have it initiate by starting the program with the ignition on, the PA module isn't there. I've contact Durametric support to see if PA is supported on '06 Cayennes.

My CTTS is most definitely out of warranty (74K). As the vehicle is new to me within the last four months, it has been to the dealer three times, including a major service right after I bought it to bring it back up maximum function, repair of the transmission gear display on the dash (discussed on this forum elsewhere), and most recently to diagnose and repair a defective air line. When I bought it, I did so relying pretty much on the service history displayed on Carfax since service records weren't available, but the vehicle was in pristine condition. As I picked it up after the most recent repair, the check engine light came on when I started it up. My service writer was standing right next to me when it happened and I think maybe they were embarrassed that my newly repaired vehicle came out of the shop with a check engine light displayed. They immediately took it back in and came out a while later with the diagnosis of two defective coils. Whether precisely true or not, my service writer told me the coils had been upgraded again to the "20" part number I mentioned above and said they were warrantied up to 100K npw so they would replace all of them while I waited. I don't know if the vehicle had previous coil replacements or not, but I do remember asking them to check them when they changed the plugs during the major service. Obviously, I was happy to wait while they replaced all of the coils. I haven't bothered to remove the design covers yet and confirm that they did replace all of them (I'm certain they did, though), and the warranty repair receipt I received reflected the same. Whether it was a good will gesture or not, my dealer has really been first rate in the service they've provided my vehicle. They've earned my loyalty, and with the new coils, the engine is running the best it's ever has since I bought it back in March. My suggestion for anyone having coil issues is to inquire whether Porsche NA is warrantying them up to 100K now and insist on the "20" part number coils.

My dealer just replaced all 8 of my ignition coils at no cost to me as a result of a check engine light coil fault code. And it turns out the coils now have an updated part number - 948 602 104 20. Most recently ended in "09". Maybe the big gap in numbers means they finally figured it out! Needless to say, my engine is purring like a kitty with all new coils and recently new spark plugs. Since the coils have been such a source of drama for Cayenne owners, I've attached a pdf of a Beru publication providing all of the information (and more) that you'd ever want to know about these coils. Enjoy! Beru Porsche Coils.pdf

The 1st generation Cayenne Turbo models (i.e., Turbo, Turbo S) came from the factory equipped with single ground electrode spark plugs (Beru 14F-6DPUR021, Porsche part number 999 170 221 90), while the normally aspirated Cayenne S came equipped with four ground electrode spark plugs (Bosch FGR 6 KQE). I was recently looking at a variety of websites for plugs equivalent to the original Beru plug and noted that many of them that have "vehicle parts finder tools" will display the incorrect four ground electrode plugs as the "correct" plug for the Turbo engines. The attached extract from a Porsche Cayenne training manual explains why the four ground electrode style plugs should NOT be used in the turbo engine. I tend to trust the Porsche engineers when it comes to stuff like this, since they could have spec'ed any spark plug they desired. If you want to go with a Bosch plug in your turbo engine, use the FR6DPP332S plug; it's a single ground electrode plug and comes gapped (.8mm) correctly for the turbo engines. Otherwise, stick with the Beru 14 F-6 plugs. All in my opinion, of course. Cayenne Turbo Spark Plugs.pdf

Yesterday as I was backing out of my garage, the display lights on the front Park Assist indicator panel starting flashing very erratically - blinking in no particular pattern and then suddenly nothing. The Park Assist is just simply dead. Personally, I find the Park Assist a very useful feature on a large vehicle and even after only one day, I'm already wishing it was still working. First thing I did was check the fuse on the passenger side fuse box (#2 fuse, 5 amp for those interested). Fuse was fine. Next I tooked a peek at the diagnostic manual and discovered that there's a plethora of possible fault codes related to the Park Assist system, so it was time to hook up the Durametric. Unfortunately, although the Durametric has Park Assist coverage for some models, an '06 Cayenne is not one of them. My guess at this point, based on the way it died, is that the control unit failed, but that's just a guess. It will have to go into the dealer for diagnosis and repair, but before it goes in, I'm wondering if there are any other simple tests I could do or things to look at before biting the bullet on a dealer repair?

Wow, wish I had found your DIY link too. Excellent pics. Before starting, I searched by the trouble code (P0441), not by part name (since I wasn't sure what its "official" name is. I'd say between Mudman2's and your DIY write-ups, this repair is very well covered and can undertaken by anyone willing to work on their Cayenne.

My Cayenne recently started displaying its check engine light. I pulled the code with my Durametric and it reported a P0441, which is an out of range pressure reading on the tank vent line. I cleared it, and it came back the next time I drove, so I knew it was time to fix the problem. Naturally, the first place I looked was here, and came across this excellent tutorial: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/161-p0441-error-code/'>http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/161-p0441-error-code/ . I picked up the part at one of the local dealers and did the repair yesterday. After poking around on the internet a bit, it appears that this is not uncommon problem that crops up once the vehicle hits above the 60K mile mark, so I didn't feel so bad about having to replace a part the is known to go bad after a considerable period of time (i.e., 7.5 years, 72K miles in my vehicle's case). To help the next person who needs to do this repair, I just want to add a couple things from my experience. This picture shows the part that fails. In it, the electrical connection has been unplugged and the vent line has already been removed from the valve: As the tutorial states, removal of the old part is more difficult than the installation of the replacement part and I as well chose to unplug all of the injector wiring plugs for access and actually cut the old line to ease removal. The only tricky part of the install is to make sure you route the replacement line beneath a small, hard plastic vacumn line located at the rear of the block. This picture shows the location: After buttoning everything back up, I cleared the fault code and went for a couple of test drives. Problem solved, and kudos to Mudman2 for making these easy for those of us encountering this same issue.

This was the link I was provided by Durametric for the beta of the next version (to address the code issue I was having). I see the link is no longer working; perhaps they will be formally releasing it soon. My original advice remains, don't always trust the codes shown by your Durametric - they may not be accurate.

As I recently learned, you cannot trust the fault codes being returned by the Durametric software. Make sure you have the most recent version (www.durametric.com/durametric6.3.2.3.exe ) of the software loaded, and if you stil are getting invalid (my case) or suspect codes, definitely contact Durametric tech support and make them aware of your specific situation. In my case, they were able to determine an error in a formula their software was using and let me know what the correct code was supposed to be. I know, not very confidence inspiring, but at least the Durametric software usually gets you pointed in the right direction.

Final update - hopefully. Armed with the diagnostic insight I provided them, the service tech at the dealership did supposedly locate a small leak in the air line coming off one of the turbos. He corrected the leak and once again, they claim it is repaired. So my CTTS ends up with new wiring harnesses and a new TCU it probably didn't need, the dealership ends up with a nice "wallet share" from me, and maybe, just maybe, I now have my CTTS fully sorted. It's running beautifully now, and to the dealership's credit once again, there was no charge for my third and hopefully final trip regarding this particular issue. Now if only Durametric would fix their software so it actually yields correct and valid fault codes, we'd all be better served.

This is gospel. My Durametric has been pulling a P2329 fault code on multiple occasions after being cleared, one that doesn't even exist. Turns out the correct code for the displayed condition is P2281. I no longer trust my Durametric, but it is a good starting point for getting your diagnostic process headed in the right direction.

Another update. The "display" came back, so it wasn't repaired after all of the time and money expended thus far. My Durametric again reported a "P2329" code, so I perused the OBDII Diagnostic manual for the Cayenne I recently acquired and shock - there is no valid DME 7.1.1 P2329 code. I contacted Durametric tech support and received a response acknowledging that a faulty formula used in the software was generating fault codes with a value of +48 for the expected fault codes in the upper range of expected fault codes from the DME 7.1.1. That's just frickin' great! You can't even rely on the accuracy of the fault code being reported by the Durametric software. They did say the next version of the software should resolve the problem. In the meantime, my advice is treat your Durametric fault codes with skepticism, they may not be the right codes - very disappointing considering what the Durametric cable costs. So the correct fault code is in fact, P2281, which is a leak between the MAF sensor and the TB. This makes the new suspected culprit perhaps either the Y-plenum with a slight crack, or some other air leak along the way. The CTTS is back in the shop and they will be pressure testing using their smoke machine to track down the source of the leak. I'm hoping they do find the leak, because each time the display has gone whacko, the same fault code has been returned by the Durametric (after having previously been cleared). Somehow, it seems wrong that I am the one telling them how to find the problem, but if this fixes it, it'll all be good regardless.

While my CTTS was in the shop for the "Dash Gone Wild" repair, the very astute tech noted during a test drive that the boost gauge was only reaching 0.4 bar under full throttle, instead of the maximum of 0.8 bar it should have been attaining. A change-over valve and timed valve later, the missing boost is back. Major difference in power, and I was already impressed with what it had before the repair. Now, it just amazing. Check your boost gauge and make sure your engine is achieving it's rated boost.

As previously noted, the dealer identified a transmission fluid saturated wiring harness leading up to the control unit. As a result, they replace two wiring harnesses between the transmission and the TCU. The repair necessitated dropping the tranmission oil pan, so I also paid for a transmission filter and fluid service. This repair seemed to have taken care of the problem initially. The transmission shifts were buttery smooth and the gear indicator display seemed to function correctly. But then driving down the interstate two days later, the lights lit up again . . . all four indicators just as shown in the original photo. To make a long story short, the Cayenne went back to the dealer and spent the next four days there. They did end up re-flashing both the ECU and the TCU and for the past couple of days, have logged many, many miles and a tank of gas verifying the repair. It seems to be fixed now, and most likely was a glitch in the ECU coding. However, the other repairs were necessary, and I also take comfort in knowing the transmission also has been serviced with fresh fluid. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope the issue is permanently resolved. BTW, the second four days it was in the shop were at no charge to me. I thought the dealer really stepped up to the plate on this one, and they've earned my repeat business as a result.

So the CTTS is at the dealer and they'd never seen a dash do this before. The diagnosis now is that some sort of internal leak in the transmission case is causing fluid to wick up the harness to the TCU, which is located under the passenger seat, causing it to create some kind of short and trigger the errant display. The upshot is that because the wiring harness is fluid-saturated, they're replacing the harness, the TCU, and since they're already in there, doing the filter and tranny fluid. And for good measure, the tech also discovered some sort of control valve for the turbos was limiting boost to about 50% of normal, so they're replacing that valve as well. I can only imagine what it's going to feel like when I have access to the full boost it's capable of. And knowing what gear it's in.

I just replaced all of mine and used Oro-tek sensors. Here's a link to their website showing your application: http://oro-tekusa.com/AppGuide.aspx?Make=2&Year=2003&Model=19&SubModel=67 Shop around for the best price since numerous places sell these. I don't know if these are as accurate as the original Beru sensors, but they do the job and are far less costly.

Thanks for the part number, but I couldn't get it to come up as a valid part number. I looked at the parts diagram for my vehicle, and I think you're referring to the secondary air injection shut-off valve. Since it's a $100 part, I'll be better off spending the $100 on labor at the dealer for a correct diagnosis and repair, but I'll suggest the valve as a potential issue to my service writer.

If you found the part in PET, can you share the part number?

Thanks for that. Looks like a visit to the dealer is necessary.

Well the transmission gear selection display did its thing again a few times the other day and I had a chance to pull fault codes today. The problem is definitely intermittent, since it will go days between having this odd display on the instrument cluster. The DME has a P2329 code, which is indicated to be an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. But the transmission controller was showing a "1314" error code, which I haven't been decipher or interpret. Anyone know what this is? And finally, the vehicle electrical system was showing an error identified by the Durametric software only as part number "11". Again, I have no idea what this could mean. All help and insight appreciated!

My Durametric arrived in the mail Saturday, and I was able to survey the control units for fault codes using the latest version of Durametric's software. I need to preface this by saying that for that last three days, the display console hasn't done the "I'm in every setting mode" once. The only fault that came up was a P2329, air leak between MAF and throttle body, with a notation that the fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light. I then did the clear all fault codes routine with the Durametric. On the first drive after clearing the control units, I have to say I honestly believe like it felt like a different vehicle. Throttle response was far more pronounced, gear shifting seemed more pleasing (not shifting up and down frequently seeming to hunt for a gear), and still no more crazy dash display. I'm going to continue to monitor this issue, and probably scan for fault codes on a weekly basis for awhile, but for the moment, it seems to have resolved itself. Very weird indeed.

Do you have a part number for the EGR valve?

Thanks for the reply. It doesn't feel like it's in limp mode when this happens, but maybe I just can't tell the difference. It clears only when the engine is restarted, and it doesn't matter whether I'm driving in M mode or normal automatic mode. I'm expecting to take delivery of my Durametric any day now and will scan the control units when it arrives. I'm hoping it's just a fault that can be cleared.

I'm wondering if anyone has seen this before. After maybe about 15 - 20 minutes of driving, my dash disply shows this for my transmission gear selection: Weird that I'm parked, reversed, in drive and in neutral all at the same time! This happens whether I'm in auto shift mode or manual shift mode. The transmission seem to continue to operate normally in automatic mode when this happens. Anyone have a clue before it goes to the dealer?