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darrinsmith

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Everything posted by darrinsmith

  1. darrinsmith
    Ended up getting the inno boardlocker 745. This is an awesome product, and only required minor modification (2 x longer bolts) to fit the cayenne's racks. Got it from Amazon, you can see my review there. Here's the link to it.. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Mount-Locking-Surfboard-Truck/dp/B00120MXNY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329788947&sr=8-1-fkmr0 Really recommend it! (not affiliated with Inno or Amazon).
  2. darrinsmith
    Thanks Mike, The magnet is still in the plastic bit that you screw on, and the car "knows" the hose is connected (Red warning on the dash board). So the reed switch must be working. I guess they must have disconnected something when they put the compressor in a bit further down the chain perhaps... I'll just have to crawl under this weekend and have a look. Thanks DS
  3. darrinsmith
    Hi everyone. I recently had some trouble with the compressor on my 2003 turbo with air suspension. I had the local shop replace the compressor with an aftermarket unit and everything is fine and working as is should, except I went to use the spare tyre filling hose the other day (to help out an old lady with a flat tyre) and it didn't work. (of course after I have boasted about how great it was to have a compressor built into your car!). I connected the hose to the filling point as normal, and the red "spare tyre filling" warning came up on the dash board as normal, but the compressor doesn't kick in, and there is no pressure at the filling point under the seat. The funny thing is, that you can manually press in the little nipple in the filling point itself and get a momentary "phsst" of air but then nothing. The hose is not damaged or blocked either. The air suspension is working correctly, and the compressor will kick in as required and the accumulator tank is holding air properly. I also confirmed there are no error codes with Durametric. I assume there must be a valve located somewhere in the line that is not working (ie not allowing air to pass through), can anyone give me any guidance as to what I should be looking for and where it is located). From the looks of it it is underneath the car rather than the seat itself? Car is RHD, if that matters. Thanks again! DS
  4. darrinsmith
    Hi My son has just got an 8ft surfboard and I am looking for a better way to take it to the beach than just using elastic straps to strap it to the roof racks on my 2003 Cayenne Turbo, as they are damaging the sides of it. I notice Porsche make a "Surfboard Support" P/N 955 044 000 07. It is reasonably priced when compared to similar systems for other cars, but the local dealer has never sold one, so can't give me any feedback on it. It is also ex-germany so I can't look at it before buying it, as they require pre-payment for ex-germany parts and won't accept returns. It's hard to see how it works from the pictures, so I was looking for some feedback from any surfers in the forum. It needs to be easy enough so my wife can strap the board on if I am not able to make it to the beach (bummer). Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks DS
  5. darrinsmith
    I sent the car to the local indy shop in the end and they have diagnosed the electrical motor in the pump as faulty. My understanding is that the rebuild kit is just the seals. So that is not going to help me I think. Thanks DS
  6. darrinsmith
    Ok confirmed compressor is stuffed. Local part costs AUD $4,000 (approx US$4,200). Can anyone suggest a place in the US that might ship one to me, I imagine even with shipping and tax it would be cheaper. They also mentioned I need an updated hose as the pump has been revised, my car is a MY2003. Thanks DS
  7. darrinsmith
    Is there a way to "top up" the accumulator tank with an external compressor while I sort this out, as I can't have the car off the road at the moment. Is there a schraeder valve on the tank somewhere? Thanks DS
  8. darrinsmith
    Hi It looks like my air suspension compressor has finally died. It is generating the 1772 error, and then subsequently the 1400 error, and the compressor does not seem to be working. The leveling system is however working correctly and the car will still automatically adjust itself if parked on the slope. I bled off some air using the tyre inflation hose and verified that the compressor is not kicking in. I took off the plastic cover under the car and checked the connections to the compressor, they were all tight. Out of interest I also checked the large connector with two large wires (brown and red) which I assumed is the power supply for the compressor. There did not seem to be any voltage at this connector, which I thought was a bit strange. I checked the two fuses in the right hand fuse panel (27 & 48?) and they were fine. Is there anything else I should check before I rebuild the compressor? Did I get the correct fuses, the manual is not very helpful in it's naming of the fuses. Thanks DS
  9. darrinsmith
    Hi Got the noisy tie rod problem on my '99. Is there a complete DIY for replacement. Seems to be bits and pieces around the forum, but not the whole job. Thanks! DS
  10. darrinsmith
    Hi My front rotors are nearing time to replace and I have been looking at some different options. I am getting conflicting information about the rotor size I need however. I took off the wheel and roughly measured the rotor diameter on there at the moment, it is approx 330mm. I also read off the part number (996 351 409 02) and put it in the PET using the VIN filter for my car (WP0ZZZ99Z4S670094) and confirmed that part number is correct. (It also shows the 4 piston caliper as the correct part for that VIN). When I do a search on pelicanparts with that part number they show all the rotors at 350mm x 33. I have 4 piston brakes at the front, and I thought that the 350mm disc only suited the 6 piston fronts. Anyway when I search on the local supplier's web site (www.dba.com.au) I also get the 350mm x 33 measurement, they list the 330mm disc as for the carrera S. Is this just the manufacturers getting confused or are there two sizes of disc for this car, and should I be ordering the 330mm as fitted, or the 350mm as seems to be specified? cause basically if I go into the local supplier and ask for the disc for a MY2004 996 turbo, I'll get the 350mm discs. Thanks in advance. DS Sorry just realised I posted this in the wrong forum, can someone please move to 996TT forum. Thanks! DS
  11. darrinsmith
    Thanks! I have had a good look at the window, and it appears I also need to adjust the window slightly inward. Is that what the other adjustment screws are for? Do you have some detail for making this adjustment? Do I need to disassemble the door trim etc to do it (airbag etc...) Thanks DS
  12. darrinsmith
    It's a BIG amp. I'll keep mucking around and see. I might need to go with several smaller amps rather than 1 big one, but the GTO is such an awesome piece of gear....
  13. darrinsmith
    Thanks Roadsessoin, I did some more testing this morning and you might be right. That window does not seem to go up as high (only by a couple of mm) as the right window. Is there an adjustment procedure for this, (I tried holding the window up button down but it seems it's at the top of it's travel). Or does the window regulator need replacing (= another 2 trips to the dealer, one to officially diganose and then one when the parts come in an about a weeks time = 4 hours of my time wasted.) Thanks! DS
  14. darrinsmith
    Hi I am having some trouble with the cabriolet top on my 2004 turbo (yes I know this is the non-turbo forum, but I figured there are lots more non-turbo cabs than turbo cabs). The problem is that the left hand window does not go all the way up into the seal, therefore making lots of wind noise and allowing a bit of water in. The problem appears to be the top itself. The rain channel does not line up correctly, and there seems to be a very large gap between the 2nd and 3rd sections. I have a '99 cab to compare it to and this car (the 04) definately seems wrong. The car is still under Porsche warranty and has been to the dealer twice now. They have calibrated the roof, and acknowledge there is a problem but basically said unless thay can figure out what part needs replacing there's nothing they can do. They recon they've been told off by Porsche Australia before for replacing cab tops without a really good reason, and are not prepared to do so in this case. I have included some pics, in the hope that maybe someone might be able to suggest what might be the problem. Here you can see that the arc of the cabriolet top is not quite right. Here is a photo showing the window not fitting correctly into the roof seal. Here is a closeup of the gap between the first and second sections. Note they don't line up at all. Any ideas? Thanks DS
  15. darrinsmith
    My experience with the Hawk's and EBC compared to stock is that their performance is, overall, better than stock pads, however, when they are cold they do require more pedal pressure than stock. When they are hot, and I'm talking track here, they work great! For mostly everyday driving and the occasional track day, I would go with the Hawks, they aren't quite as "cranky" in the cold as I found the EBC's to be, plus the rotor wear is much less. Cheers DS
  16. darrinsmith
    Thanks Guys, (nice pic Loren) I was looking for a place to mount my JBL GTO 6 channel amp. It is big. Unfortunately as my car is RHD the brake booster is where the CD changer is in the above pic, and the ABS pump is on the left hand side. My car has a plastic panel that covers the whole top up so you can't actually see that round hump thing that covers the fuel pump, so I'll have to muck around a bit to find a mounting point, as I can't really impinge any more on the tiny trunk. Thanks DS
  17. darrinsmith
    Hi I just wanted to clarify from someone what's inside the big box-like structure in the front trunk of the turbo's I've seen pictures of people mounting stuff (like amps etc) to this box, and I wondered what was inside before I start drilling. It sounds very hollow, is it where the fuel tank is? I assume it a safe to mount stuff on? My car is a 2004 tiptronic turbo cab, right-hand-drive (ROW spec). Thanks DS
  18. darrinsmith
    I run Hawk pc pads, work great, low dust and don't chew up the rotors, I was running EBC's but they chewed my rotors up too quickly. take a look here http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ceramic.php
  19. darrinsmith
    Good point, I assume I could just swap the cap with my 2004 turbo to test? It has a brand new cap. Thanks DS
  20. darrinsmith
    Hi I have verified that both speeds of fan are operating with the engine running. I never have a reason to turn off the A/C so the low speed fans run whenever the engine is on. They are moving lots of air now, verified by holding my hand over the inlet, and also under the nose of the car, where there is *lots* of hot air coming out, especially when the fans kick over into high speed. It was a little warm here today 35oC (95oF) and the temp gauge on the dash was running at about 90-95oC (194-203oF) in very light stop-start traffic. My other 996 (abeit a turbo but also a tiptronic) is rock solid on 80oC (176oF) in the same weather, even when driving with gusto. Previously the car was also rock solid on about 85oC (185oF) in even on the hottest days. It's all well within the vehicles tolerances, but I'm just trying to figure out why, even after cleaning the radiators, the car is all of a sudden running about 10oC hotter than usual. Am I worried about nothing? I'm thinking I might change the thermostat anyhow, seeing as how I also have to do the oil pressure sender so it can be a great big rear-end off weekend! I'm just trying to decide, as the dealer here does not keep any parts in stock (apart from basic service items, filters etc), everything is ex-melbourne which is a 2-3 day wait, and it is a 90km (about 55 miles) round trip to the dealer for me if I forget something. Thanks DS
  21. darrinsmith
    Surely someone must know what the normal resistances are for the sender though? Anyone? Thanks DS
  22. darrinsmith
    Ok cleaned out the fans (10 years worth of crap!), got out about 2 kgs of sand! Car is running much cooler, but still warmer than before. Maybe thermostat is jammed? Is there an easy way to test apart from replacing it? I have to make the 40km trip to the dealer this week anyway, so I can get one. Fans appear to be working fine, coolant is only a few months old, and level is correct. Thanks DS
  23. darrinsmith
    Hi I am having some oil pressure gauge woes in my 99 3.4 996. When I put in the key and turn the car to on, the oil pressure gauge on the dash goes straight up to the top. Starting the engine makes no difference, it's always above the 5. I've checked the connections to the switch and they appear correct (small to small and big to big) but I swapped them just to be sure - no difference. So now I need to trouble shoot the sender. Can anyone give me the procedure? I assume I can check the resistance with the engine running and stopped to see if the sender is cactus. I had some work done on the transmission so I suspect either the sender got damaged, or they broke the wiring when putting it all back together. If the sender is good I assume I can also do some resistance type checks at the instrument panel end. It looks like something is grounding along the way :-( but I can start down that route once I've verified the sender unit. BTW the oil level check bar graph at start-up is working fine and corresponds with the dip-stick level perfectly. Thanks again! DS
  24. darrinsmith
    Hi Thanks fans are definately working, I triggered them with drive links on durametric to be sure. The left hand fan is not moving much air, compared to the right, and I did have a problem with a resident rodent, so I'll pull off the bottom of the car and take a look this weekend. I thought I had cleaned up all her mess! Thanks! DS
  25. darrinsmith
    Hi I got my 99 3.4 tiptronic cab out for a drive today, and it got really hot while driving. It has been sitting for about 4 weeks, and was all fine before. The coolant level is fine, fans are working, and there are no obvious coolant leaks or blockages in the radiators. The car warms up normally, but if I stop at traffic lights etc, the temp creeps way up. If I start driving the temp goes back down to close to normal, but is still much higher than normal. A bit wierd really, Where should I start troubleshooting, coolant cut off valve? Is there a way to check if the thermostat is stuck? It is warm here at the moment, (in the high 30's celcius) but it's never run this hot before. Thanks DS
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