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Everything posted by darrinsmith

  1. Hi No you won't need the durametric to set the servo's for disassembly as the software can't do it anyhow. I really do recommend you buy the software if you want to work on your car. It's really helpful to know which servo's are actually broken, as you can test them all, plus the blower motor etc with it. Plus you can trouble shoot all the other gremlins in the cayenne's As far as the manuals go, if you ask "porschelibrarian" on this forum he can get you a copy, they are LHD versions so will suit you car just fine. To get to the lower servo's you need to remove the A/C controller, ashtray and PCM, then remove the "carrier" and then the surround. It really helps to have the manual Cheers DS
  2. I have just replaced a few in my car (RHD) but the procedure should be the same for you. See my post http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44003-air-cond-blowing-cold-on-right-hot-on-left/ It is motor #10 right hand temperature mixing flap motor you need to change. You should be able to to change yours without taking the whole dash out though. If you're up to it bite the bullet and pull the dash and fix them all. I had to fix the defrost flap motor and you can only get to that by removing the dash. Good luck!
  3. Ok I finally fixed the stupid air cond servo motors. I ordered 3 (defroster flap, left hand outboard, and right hand temperature mixer flap) - My car is a RHD ($280 each OUCH). I didn't bother with the footwell servos as it never get's really cold here. You need to remove the dash, it's a pain but can be done. The trick is to work slowly. The procedure is covered in the workshop manual, it just looks much harder than it is. Some points to note. 1) I'd suggest unlocking the steering wheel, and putting the car into "D" and opening the rear tailgate BEFORE you disconnect the battery (you will need to remove the passenger and driver's air bags so you MUST disconnect the battery-also note DON'T close the tailgate with the battery removed, you can't open it again!). This is mentioned in the workshop manual under the section on removing the driver's airbag. 2) You WILL need to remove the steering wheel as the lower dash bar won't clear it and will break (ask me how I know!, however it can be easily fixed once the car is disassembled if you need). 3) Putting the shifter into "D" will allow easy removal of the ash tray, A/C controller and ultimately the dash carrier unit. Put a thick sock over the shifter so you don't scratch it. 4) When removing the THOUSANDS of plastic trim clips, use 2 spatulas one on each side of the clip otherwise they just break off. I destroyed more than half of mine, but it still all went back together just fine. 5) Take note of the location of the middle BOSE speaker wire, it has a very tricky routing, the other speaker wires etc are fairly straight forward. Now on RHD cars the right hand servo's are boxed in by the foot brake mechanism and holder (not a problem in LHD cars). see http://www.specialistvehiclepreparations.com/blog/porsche-cayenne-heater-flap-replacement I pondered this for a while as the above article says you have to remove the dash bar (which is basically impossible-I tried for about an hour to figure it out, but I couldn't budge it). However you can save yourself a LOT of hassle by simply removing the foot brake mechanism! It's actually very easy - again the procedure is in the workshop manual. 1) remove the metal "shield" from the top of the assembly (1 bolt and wiggle the shield up and through the wiring) 2) remove the brake light switch (one little bolt). 3) remove the 2 M8 bolts from the assembly (Not the big black on in the middle). 4) remove the pedal gas strut - good time to replace it.. 5) wiggle the assembly up and out of the hanger. - I basically just hangs there on a hook setup, you may need to give it a little "tap" with a hammer to remove and also to re-seat it on re-assembly. There is NO need to unclip the brake cable or the release cable, there's enough slack to simple push the assembly out of the way. You can then get to those pesky servo motors quite easily using the tool similar to the one in this thread... http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/hvac-flap-motor-replacement-dash-removal-185361.html Note that Durametric CANNOT place the servo motors into service position (if they're broken then they won't move anyhow) so when you replace the motors, make sure the little arms engage with the white plastic flap arms. Also check the flaps move freely before fitting the new motors, for good measure lubricate the arm pins with Porsche "liquid gold" or any other white lubricant. The whole job took me about 5 hours to disassemble, 3 hours to replace the motors (most of that was actually trying to work out how to do it), and about 4 hours to put it all back together. I could do it in half the time easily now, but hopefully I'll never have to do it again. Cheers from Perth! DS
  4. Hi Can anyone recommend some high quality LED DRL's to suit a 996 turbo. (they need to work well and look good). I tried some e-bay cheapies but they were crap (not very bright/died as soon as they got wet). Also suggestions/pictures of mounting points? The front air ducts are the likely candidates. Thanks DS
  5. Spare a thought for us Australian drivers! I don't have a 991, but a 996 turbo. Granted the suspension is fairly hard on that thing, but some of the roads here.. Worst (sealed) road ever (IMHO), Great Northern Highway between Bullsbrook and Bindoon outside Perth. It's a struggle to keep the car on the road. Happy Driving... DS
  6. Ok finally fixed my Kessy and now I can communicate with the A/C unit again. I'm getting the same errors still. I'd like to try getting at the regulator motors so I can test them and possibly replace them. I have a RHD car, and the regulators are on the LHS of the centre tunnel. But you can't really get to them as the condenser assembly is in the way. Can anyone shed any light on how to get to the servo motors in a RHD vehicle. All the instructions I've seen refer to the LHD vehicles, where the blower/condenser assembly is the mirror image. Thanks DS
  7. Sorry to bump this old thread, but I finanally got around to removing the Kessy and fixing it. Some notes to help RHD vehicle owners. 1) disconnect the battery - important as you'll be disconnecting the vehicle electrical control module (VECM). 2) remove the lower dash panel AND the upper dash surround (you'll need unhook the park brake release cable - it's not hard, use a small flat screwdriver to lever out the "ball" on the end of the cable), disconnect the headlight and light level adjustment switches 3) disconnect the connectors to the vehicle electrical control module. This is the 5 wires in the forefront of the photo about they have black, red and brownish connectors. 4) put those cables out of the way, however do NOT try to remove the VECM, it's not necessary. 5) remove the smaller round connector from the Kessy easy. 6) Remove the large connector. This one is a real PITA as you need to slide the grey part of the connector toward the RHS of the car. There is zero room in there, so I ended up using a large flat bladed screw-driver to push the grey "handle" part while pulling the large black part off. The handle is spring-loaded so it's quite difficult to get off. 7) Gently push the large connector behind the KESSY unit. 8) You'll be able to easily unclip the KESSY and it will come down a little but, but then it'll get stuck on the main wiring loom. I used the large flat screwdriver to GENTLY prise the wiring harness to the right and wiggled the KESSY down. This was quite a chore, and took about 15 minutes to get out. The repair itself was quite simple and took me about 30 minutes, having done it once I could do it in 10 now. The main problem is getting the old Mosfets off the board. Only one of mine had failed, but I replaced both also replace the small resistors as you can't test them in circuit. Try Googling "desoldering mosfets" for a video, but basically use your iron to gently heat the top of the heatsink/drain and apply solder to conduct the heat. The mosfet will pop off after only a minute or so of heating. Replacing the Kessy is fairly much the reverse, but it takes a LOT of wiggling to get it back past the main wiring loom and into place. Be patient and you will be rewarded. Put everything back together and reconnect the battery. Don't forget to re-set the throttle position (basically turn car on without starting or moving the throttle for 30 seconds and then turn off) and the steering angle sensor (basically go for a short drive). Cheers! DS
  8. Hi I'm chasing the part number for the transmission valve body (switch unit). My car is 2003 Cayenne Turbo (ID9L) It's a RHD/RoW (Australian) model. The VIN is 9PZ4LA80155 I think it might be 955 325 039 00? Thanks DS
  9. Good point, unfortunately I already tossed the old filter and it was garbage/recycle day the next day, so it's gone :-( It was the only thing I did to the car on that day though. I should clarify, I'd done the oil and other bits a the previous week as I'd ordered the filter separately and it took longer to arrive, so it was done on a separate day (I keep a "stock" of oil filers/crush rings etc at home). I'd done the battery charge test a few weeks earlier, and the boost leak test about a month ago. I did the spark plugs/drive belt today. I still think it's a "Fair" bet that the filter was contributing to the problem, but unfortunately I can't absolutely confirm it now.... (I should know better, I used to be a scientist!). Thanks DS
  10. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the servo pulley, and it gave an almighty clatter. Just a pointer if you get the same noise, check the bolts are tight... You use a 15mm socket on the small black nut on the tensioner arm, not the 24mm nut on the tensioner pulley itself. Doing it this way you can easily do it yourself. I also found it easier to slip the belt over the alternator and then over the lower roller last of all, as the alternator pulley has a ridge on it, whereas the roller pulley below the alternator is smooth so the belt slips over it easily. It's actually #8 (the last step) in the diagram. If you follow those numbers it goes on easy. (It's not too clear from the diagram that the numbers indicate the fitting order). An easy and worthwhile job to do.
  11. Thanks for a great write-up. I just did this job (although I only replaced the regulator on the back of the alternator). I'd like to add a couple of points I found when I was doing the job. 1) Removing the "Y" pipe; you can easily slip the little vacuum hose off the other end. It's attached to the pressure solenoid and slips right off. You can then remove the whole "Y" pipe with the little vacuum hose still attached. The solenoid is a known problem and at about $20 worth replacing while you're in there. 2) When you release the tension on the belt don't use the 24mm nut. If you look carefully there's a 15mm nut attached to the mounting arm. It's heaps easier to get the tension on that (It's the correct way to do it as well!). 3) The alternator is a pig to get out but you can make it tons easier to put back in by putting the steel bush end of the alternator main mount in a bench vice and gently pressing the bush outwards a little. I found this great tip in this tutorial (scroll way down) and it works like a treat!http://www.dakingrulez.com/porsche_996_turbo_Gt2/diy/remove_alternator/porsche_996_turbo_gt2_remove_alternator.shtm 4) While you're in there clean your throttle body too, use throttle body cleaner. Also clean your MAF as you've got that out too. Make sure you only use special MAF cleaner on it, NOT the throttle body cleaner. I also replaced my drive belt too as it was due. It's actually a snap to do, it's much harder to get it out. Putting the new one on took about 2 minutes, it literally "fell" into place. Loren has a tutorial on the belt in the DIY section, but it's fairly straight forward. Hope this helps. DS
  12. There seem to also be numerous "kits" for doing this. I recently saw a "turtle wax headlight restorer kit". (Dougg996 - supercheaps sell it for $30 bucks). Has anyone had any luck with these kits, or is the DIY option the best. My RH headlight looks like a crow did line dancing on it, it's not foggy though..
  13. Hi everyone. I just wanted to share this in case anyone else is having this issue. Background, stock 2004 turbo tip with 80,000km. I've been chasing really rough cold idle (engine surges and almost stalls) and "jerky" acceleration on this car since I bought it (at about 50,000km). Sometimes it would also stall when coming to a stop (it's an auto so it's a PITA when it happens). I cleaned the MAF, and checked for boost/induction leaks. Everything was good there. No errors in durametric. I also made sure the battery was fully charged (interestingly a marginal improvement, but nothing concrete). As part of the 80,000 service, I replaced the fuel filter, and bingo, instant improvement, perfect cold idle and nice smooth power delivery right up the red line. I've never had the car driving so nicely! Fuel quality in Australia is renowned for it's poor quality, and 80,000km (64K miles?) is the recommended replacement interval, but I'll definitely be replacing it more often. I recon every 40,000km would be more like it here. As a side note I've never replaced the fuel filter before, but it was much easier that I expected, took about 30 minutes in total, the hardest part was getting the plastic quick connector off the input line. The best tutorial I found was at ECStuning. I bought a Mahle branded filter, it's a perfect fit. I have a short video of the rough idle, and I'll try to include it later. Thanks DS
  14. OK I found Bigbuz's post on rennlist with the torque settings. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/porsche-cayenne-forum/641849-front-lower-control-arm.html I couldn't find it in the workshop manual. Thanks DS
  15. Hi Can someone please point me to the factory procedure for replacing the lower control arms. (I'm just going to buy the whole arm assembly x2 rather then muck around with individual bushings). I'm not going to tackle it myself, but clients who run a tyre shop will do it for me. They pointed out they were stuffed when they rotated my tyres last, and the front end clunks like crazy. They mainly work on Fords, but they'll do it if I source the parts, and give them the procedure as a guide. Is there anything else I should replace while they're doing that? (upper arms?). I have air suspension.... Thanks DS
  16. Hi I must apologise, I have made a typo with the size of the little "T" it should be a 16mm all round. The big "T" is definitely 25-16-25. I have will edit the original post to correct the error. If you're going to do this fix however, I recommend you order the new hoses and assemble/fabricate your replacements before you disassemble the car, to make sure you get the sizes correct and to minimise your down-time. I didn't check the size of the little vacuum "T" but I sourced it no problems from the local auto store. It is the same size all around, if I could buy it here in Perth Western Australia (aka Wait Awhile or "what a Porsche, no we don't have anything that'll fit that"), then I'm sure you can get something to suit at your local auto store! All the Porsche hoses are metric, so all you Imperial people will have to make do with what you have, fortunately the differences shouldn't be too much of a problem compared to a bolt size/thread type. Thanks and sorry to all.... Cheers DS
  17. Thanks Big Buz, Hopefully I can get around to dropping the compressor this weekend to check but the line is definitely pressurised, so it must be connected to the compressor. There is a small brass valve in-line, and I also suspected that, but it's bonded to the hose, so I'll have to cut it to check it... I assume it's a one-way valve, I wonder if they put it back the wrong way round....as it looks like they might have cut the hose to remove the old compressor, and have put some heat-shrink type stuff over one side of the fitting. It seems odd from the schematic that the tyre outlet is not controlled by the pressure sensor, rather through the 2 bleed valves, although from memory for tyre filling the compressor runs almost constantly until it gets hot then the car cuts it out till it cools a bit. It's just really weird that the line is pressurised, the compressor just won't run.... Thanks DS
  18. Sorry to reopen this very old thread, but I did some more diagnosis today. So I can confirm the following; 1) The air suspension is working perfectly at the moment, and I can hear the compressor running from time to time to keep the system pressure as per normal operation. 2) There are no errors being logged with durametric. 3) When I screw the air fill hose in the car recognises that the hose is connected and show the red "filling tire" message on the dash (so I assume the magnet sensor in the hose is fine). 4) The filling system is definitely pressurised, as you'll get a few seconds of air from the hose as the line de-pressurises. I took off the plastic panel and verified that all the air hoses appear to be in the correct places, I also re-seated all the electrical connections to the air compressor, and checked the 2 fuses in the dashboard were ok. So now I'm at a bit of dead end, I can only assume either 1) there is some sort of fault in the car that isn't affecting the rest of the system, 2) the compressor I got (an aftermarket one) is somehow not "wired" to activate the compressor on the tyre fill input. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be happy to hear them, as I'd really like to have this system working, as in the past I've used it a bit to re-inflate tyres after being off road enough to get to a normal compressor. Thanks Darrin Smith
  19. Hi Everyone. I've had a few questions from people about the sizes of the "T". The big one (which has the 25-16-25 mm outlets) is 75mm from end to end between the big outlets. My brass one was a bit longer than that, probably about another 10mm. You don't have much room to move back there so you can't go much bigger than that. The guy at the hose shop was able to fabricate it using a standard 3 way 25mm brass T, cutting off the middle outlet, and then cutting the outlet off a 3 way 16mm T. He then tapped it in and brazed the small outlet in. The smaller "T" is a standard off the shelf 16mm 3 way. Cost me about 8 bucks. I tried making the 25-16-25 "T" from brass screw fittings, but the resulting "T" was way too big to fit in. I also purchased new assemblies from Porsche to replace the rubber hoses, due to having to destroy them to get them off. I'm happy to report that after 5 months, the repair is still perfect, and withstanding 38oC days (that about 100oF in the "old money") with zero loss of coolant. I hope that helps!
  20. Hi I'm getting the following error in my MY2004 car. It's not causing any dash errors, but I can't clear it. I've recently had new tyres fitted (The PO had put on the wrong size tyres which was playing havoc with the ABS). and I also recently had both front wheel bearings replaced by a local indy. I didn't scan the car before sending it to the shop, but I've never seen this error before. One thing to note, durametric seems unable to identify the tiptronic module. The scan screen just shows. Tiptronic transmission G100 Module Identification Part Number Supplier Part Number Current Fault Codes 25 CAN: front left wheel rpm from PSM implausible I'm not sure whether it's normal for the software not to show anything at all in the module ID and part number screens. I remember having to switch the "K" lines in the software on my old '99 996 tip, but it was the old transmission type, not the Merc box. The ABS is definately not right though. I googled it but not much came up. Any thoughts? Thanks DS
  21. Job done Did the starter and thermostat as well. Check out my brass t pipe fix in the DIY section. Cheers DS
  22. Cayenne Turbo Brass T Pipe Mod Hi My car already had the aluminium coolant upgrade, but the famous "T" pipes went blew the other day. There is already two excellent tutorials on replacing the cooling pipes and the "T"'s but I wanted to go one better and replace the aweful stupid plastic "T"'s with something that hopefully will outlast the car itself. Firstly you'll need to remove the plenum chamber, to get to the hoses, this is covered in detail in the other tutorials. We will be replacing/upgrading 3 troublesome plastic Author darrinsmith Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 07/07/2013 06:59 AM
  23. I also removed the left hand air box, there's absolutely no way you can remove the pressure pipe as voodoocat points out. I also removed the headlight so I could better see what's going on in there. Those vaccum hoses are mongrels, took me about an hour to get the airbox out and disconnect the two vaccum connectors. There's no need to remove anything on the right hand side. I also took the opportunity to change the MAF sensor security screws with normal phillips head screws so I can clean them much easier in the future. This job it a real PITA, I was "lucky" I was doing the coolant pipes too, so I already had the "Y" pipe, throttle body and plenum chamber out, so it was easier to see what was going on down there. I had the bottom engine covers off, but there's probably no need, the belt seems to find it's way in the grooves no problems. And for Rumble8 A/F30 is simply 30mm metric. I got one from the local auto parts shop. I tried a socket, but it won't fit on the tensioner, you have to use a wrench. This is the first time I've done this, and it took me about 2-3 hours in total.
  24. Hi My car already had the aluminium coolant upgrade, but the famous "T" pipes went blew the other day. There is already two excellent tutorials on replacing the cooling pipes and the "T"'s but I wanted to go one better and replace the aweful stupid plastic "T"'s with something that hopefully will outlast the car itself. Firstly you'll need to remove the plenum chamber, to get to the hoses, this is covered in detail in the other tutorials. We will be replacing/upgrading 3 troublesome plastic "T"'s 2 coolant; and one vaccum/vent 1) 955 106 323 50 - the really troublesome one 2) 948 106 035 51 - this is a water return from a turbo and connects to 955 106 323 50 it doesn't often break, but it's easy to upgrade 3) 948 107 215 52 - this is not a cooling hose but a vaccum/vent hose, but it's connected to a plastic "T" piece up the back of the engine, so you'll want to do it while you're there. Getting the hoses out is a drama, I had to slice them to bits and cut them off the steel hoses, as they weld themselves on. Here's how many bits I had to cut them up into! There's no "off the shelf" option for the "T" piece on 955 106 323 50 (unlike the 948 106 035 51) so I had a local hydraulic hose shop make up a custom brass peice for me. It cost $75 in total for the brass "T" but I think it's worth it. Here's the original hose and my brass "T" next to it. I CAREFULLY cut the steel bands holding the pipes on the plastic "T" using a combination of a hand saw and a dremmel tool. I also used a silver permanent marker to draw lines along the hoses, so that I could correctly orient them when I put it back together. Here's the old pipe on the new "T" with the old plastic "T" and the cut clamps. I used spring clamps in place of the old band clamps (not shown). Fixing the other pipe (948 106 035 51) is MUCH easier. Firsty the pipes are clamped on with normal clamps, so you can just remove them. also the plastic "T" pipe is the same outlet all round, so I could just buy one "off the shelf" for about $15. Again I marked the pipes with a silver marker so I could get the positioning correct. Here's the two pipes next to each other. It's important to get the orientation of the two pipes correct, as there's not much room back there. When I re-installed them I didn't put them together first. Rather I installed the lower pipe (948 106 035 51) first, then installed the upper pipe and joined the two together "in situ". Make sure you pre-position the clamps, and use the Porsche white grease to lube the joints, and it'll actually go together quite easily. While you're there you'll want to replace the crappy plastic "T" in the vaccum hose too. Mine had been replaced about 4 years ago and it broke again!. Here's a picture of the pipe we're going to fix. It's the long thin pipe we're going to replace with normal old vaccum hose from the auto store. Use a sharp knife to cut the thin pipe off the main pipe, taking care not the damage the little "T" connector on the big pipe. Now if your rear plastic "T" has broken like mine, you'll probably have bits stuck in the old pipes. I used a coarse bolt to get the bits out. You can see the gap behind that the "T" fits into. You'll need to unbolt a holder to get enough room to insert a new "T". Here's the brass "T" I used, I cut off the nipple on the end so it fitted better, but you might not need to. And here's the new brass "T" in place. I clamped it also on either side. The rubber hose runs right where the rigid pipe used to, and I just cut it to the correct length. As you can see it all fits together perfectly! I also took the opportunity to dress up the engine bay a little with the red paint! I hope you find this useful and enjoy!
  25. Hi My 2004 turbo is super noisy when driving. Just like worn tyre roar. I just put new tyres all round and the noise is still there. It is definately speed dependent. The previous owner had the wrong size tyres on it, so I hope the diffs not screwed. I'm hoping it's "just" the wheel bearings. Its hard to pin point whether it's front or back but I think its the front. Does this seem likely? I'll tackle most jobs, but this is one I don't have the tools for, so its an Indy job I guess. Any ideas how I might isolate front noise from the rear? The car is a cab so it's a bit tricky to pin point the noise. It seems all around you. I also have a spare brand new front wheel bearing from my old 2wd 99 996. Will this fit the turbo? Thanks Darrin Smith
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